I have a 06 s2r1000. The bike doesn't run good when I open the throttle all the way and try to ride the engine all the way to redline. At about 6000rpm the engine will get loud but rpm and speed doesn't really continue to increase. Everything seem fine if I ride the engine to redline using 3/4 throttle.
The bike runs pretty rich. The previous owner put on aftermarket exhaust with refreshed ecu. How do I troubleshoot it?
Thanks!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
Have you made any intake mods?
If you still have the snorkels installed in your airbox lid, remove them and see if it gets any better. If it does you can add holes to the lid. It will increase intake noise. Keep adding holes until you either see no further improvement, or it seems lean. At that point close up some holes with duct tape, if it got lean.
Picture of a carby airbox modded with more airflow...
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/3/2832/8972570465_7e93a02d3f_z.jpg)[/url]airboxlid (https://flic.kr/p/eESLAM)
Also...please read this thread wrt to tapatalk sigline...
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=73379.msg1351052#msg1351052 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=73379.msg1351052#msg1351052)
Quote from: ducpainter on May 30, 2016, 07:42:30 AMHave you made any intake mods?
If you still have the snorkels installed in your airbox lid, remove them and see if it gets any better. If it does you can add holes to the lid. It will increase intake noise. Keep adding holes until you either see no further improvement, or it seems lean. At that point close up some holes with duct tape, if it got lean.
Picture of a carby airbox modded with more airflow...
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/3/2832/8972570465_7e93a02d3f_z.jpg)[/url]airboxlid (https://flic.kr/p/eESLAM)
My airbox lid is cut down to the edge. How will this affect the issue I am having?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
It won't. If you had an intact lid it might. It sounds like the map is wrong.
Again...please turn off your tapatalk signature.
Quote from: ducpainter on May 30, 2016, 08:07:11 AM
It won't. If you had an intact lid it might. It sounds like the map is wrong.
Again...please turn off your tapatalk signature.
Just did it. Thanks
Do you have a reasonably good multimeter, and know how to use it?
Quote from: Speeddog on May 30, 2016, 08:13:53 AM
Do you have a reasonably good multimeter, and know how to use it?
I do.
Someone on another board said that it could be my fuel filter as he had a similar issue on his S4Rs.
I've read something about syncing the throttle body. What does that do exactly?
Not a straight answer, but, a little reading might help
http://www.bikeboy.org/performance.html (http://www.bikeboy.org/performance.html)
Quote from: SwiftTone on May 30, 2016, 10:44:02 AM
I do.
Someone on another board said that it could be my fuel filter as he had a similar issue on his S4Rs.
I've read something about syncing the throttle body. What does that do exactly?
If the fuel filter hasn't been replaced in the 5-6K miles I'd do that before I did much else.
Quote from: ducpainter on May 30, 2016, 11:49:04 AM
If the fuel filter hasn't been replaced in the 5-6K miles I'd do that before I did much else.
What would be a good replacement?
NAPA 3032.
and if possible also replace the hose
Quote from: DarkMonster620 on May 30, 2016, 05:07:58 PM
and if possible also replace the hose
What's the part# for the hose?
You can get the parts catalogues here:
http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do (http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do)
Quote from: SwiftTone on May 30, 2016, 07:50:34 PM
What's the part# for the hose?
NAPA H 209. It's a 1 foot piece and sells for about $30.
I just noticed you have an S2R. The OEM filter has a ground lug and the NAPA doesn't. Also the NAPA hose is straight and it looks like the OEM is pre formed. You might want to consider OEM parts for this application. I've never used the NAPA stuff in this application.
I ordered a new OEM fuel filter. Why is it recommended to replace the hose?
I mentioned that the bike runs rich. If the fuel filter is not flowing properly, wouldn't it run lean instead?
Quote from: SwiftTone on May 31, 2016, 10:14:51 AM
I ordered a new OEM fuel filter. Why is it recommended to replace the hose?
I mentioned that the bike runs rich. If the fuel filter is not flowing properly, wouldn't it run lean instead?
It might be mapped rich and starving for fuel at full throttle due to flow...or rather lack of it. The fact that it will rev at less than full throttle kind of suggests a flow problem.
It also eliminates a possibility without replacing a non maintenance item.
Your S2R has the corrugated plastic hoses, I've not seen those degrade.
The earlier models had rubber hoses, and if the bike sits for a while, the current ethanol-contaminated fuel will attack the rubber hose.
I've seen them spring a small leak that reduces delivery pressure enough that the bike then runs poorly.
I know the vet has seen bikes with clogged/restricted filters show full throttle issues.
Quote from: ducpainter on May 31, 2016, 02:17:29 PM
I know the vet has seen bikes with clogged/restricted filters show full throttle issues.
Yep, absolutely.
If you are in there to change the filter on an older bike with rubber hoses do consider replacing them with with SAE 30R10 hoses.
Okay so I replaced the fuel filter with an OEM one and now it won't start. I can hear the pump prime but it just won't start. It just keeps cranking and cranking. Some some occasions it seems to fire up for 1 revolution but just goes back to cranking.
I was quite sure that the filter was put in the correct position. But even if it's the wrong direction it should still start right?
When I had the assembly out I noticed a little wire that was attached to the hose clamp. It looks like someone else replaced the pump at one point. What is that little wire for? I ended up safety wiring it snugly to the assembly and the little tab on the fuel filter where it looked like it belonged.
When I pull the plugs I notice the the horizontal cylinder plugs were little damp but the vertical cylinder plugs were bone dry. Is it normal for 1 to be wet and the other dry?
What else should I try?
did you reconnect the hoses under the tank in the correct order? they're just vents but . . .
Quote from: DarkMonster620 on June 07, 2016, 04:06:05 PM
did you reconnect the hoses under the tank in the correct order? they're just vents but . . .
I never removed the vent/overflow hose. I only removed the in and out hose with the plastic clips. Those hoses are different legnths so you can mix them up and hook it up the wrong way.
Opened it back up. Fuel filter pointing the right way which toward the bottom left in the photo.
Unplugged the fuel pump. Pulled 2 of the spark plugs out, grounded it and cranked it over. I have spark.
Plugged the fuel pump back in. With the spark plug removed, I cranked it. No fuel spat out of the spark plug hole. Am I not getting enough fuel??
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160608/33d052b97c86b759e9ae3ef3adcc057d.jpg)
Quote from: SwiftTone on June 07, 2016, 03:59:45 PM
~~~
When I had the assembly out I noticed a little wire that was attached to the hose clamp. It looks like someone else replaced the pump at one point. What is that little wire for? I ended up safety wiring it snugly to the assembly and the little tab on the fuel filter where it looked like it belonged.
~~~
What else should I try?
Reconnect the little wire with the thingy to its original position and try again . . . it should start with no issues
Quote from: DarkMonster620 on June 08, 2016, 09:00:03 AM
Reconnect the little wire with the thingy to its original position and try again . . . it should start with no issues
I believe that is the original position. It's held securely with safety wires. If you zoom into my photo you can make it out.
What is the wire for?
The wire is a ground to dissipate any static electricity that might build up from fuel rushing through the plastic filter.
Previous models didn't use it for whatever reason, but they used a steel filter.
I doubt the wire has anything to do with your issue.
I'd cycle the key multiple times to purge any air
I have seen a couple of cases where if the strainer on the pump inlet gets totally dry, it takes a *long* time to fill up enough for the pump to prime.
Started a new thread on my new running issue:
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=73689.msg1355213#msg1355213 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=73689.msg1355213#msg1355213)
So….its running!
Took the tank back off and did a fuel pump flow test with the new Ducati filter and the old NAPA looking filter. Noticed that the Ducati filter flowed less water. Installed the old filter back on and was able to build pressure to 43psi after priming a few times. It fired up immediately! Went to NAPA and bought a 3032 Gold filter, installed it and same pressure characteristics of the old filter.
I can't believe the culprit was the Ducati filter.
Admittedly, I did buy the new filter from eBay to save a few bucks, but from a highly rated seller. I would have never thought a new filter could be bad. Lesson learned.
So after getting it running again I took it out for a test ride. Seems to idle and run a little better. Could be a combination of valve adjustment and new filter.
But the original issue still persists. I think it even has gotten worse. Before it would choke a 6500rpm at ¾ throttle but now it seems to choke earlier and at ½ throttle. I did connect JPDiag and hit reset TPS but now I'm thinking maybe the process is not as simple as that. I did see that the TPS is at 3.2 at fully close throttle and 85 at fully open. These were the same numbers I saw before “resetting†the TPS as well. TPS voltage measured at the connector at closed throttle is 0.39V and 4.20V fully open. Just to confirm, these measurements are supposed to be taken by twisting the grip right and not by twisting where the throttle cable attaches to on the engine right?
I got the cable to use with JPDiag and TuneECU over the weekend. I had a bunch of error codes so I cleared it. After I got it running, I pulled the codes again and code P0351 “ignition coil 1 circuit malfunctionâ€. Maybe I'll clear it again, and see if it shows up again by cycling the ignition without starting it. Which coil is coil 1 and how do I go about testing it?
What else can I test to get rid of the running problem?
Thanks all!
Searching is your friend...
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=72008.msg1328326#msg1328326 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=72008.msg1328326#msg1328326)