Ducati Monster Forum

The rear brake on this bike is almost non-existant.  I have tried several compounds and still cant lock the brake over 20 MPH.  The drum brakes on my old brit-iron dinosaurs put this to shame.
Do others have this problem - suggestions?

on my 05 620, I CAN'T lock rear when I am going above 30km/h . . .

why you want to lock it?

I don't use rear brakes on the street.

If bled properly it will lock, it takes a big effort to lock it due to the foot peg/lever arrangement.  Really, you don't want to lock it in normal riding.

just to hold it at lights or help me start on a hill

 The slipper clutch being part of the reason? 

How?

c'mon guys - I not trying to lock the rear brake when riding.  I mention it as a measure of its weakness.  And yes, I hardly ever use it except for trail braking.  Every time I pose this question almost everyone tells me I don't need it - almost no one addresses why it is so weak and how to fix it. 

Go with this setup.

(http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa91/chiflado/09F37C88-7AFE-4BC6-A07F-38A42745A4A3.jpg) (http://s201.photobucket.com/user/chiflado/media/09F37C88-7AFE-4BC6-A07F-38A42745A4A3.jpg.html)

(http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa91/chiflado/18C993F2-E535-45D1-96F2-26404807897D.jpg) (http://s201.photobucket.com/user/chiflado/media/18C993F2-E535-45D1-96F2-26404807897D.jpg.html)

It takes a concerted effort to bleed them 100%.
People take the caliper off and put some metal between the pads then suspend it above the master cylinder.
Cracking the banjo bolt can help too (protect with a rag).
Fitting a banjo bolt with a bleed nipple helps. Sponsors may have them.
Applying vibration to the line loosens bubbles out of entrapment points and the insides of the line. I use an old electric hair clipper with the blades removes and tape it to the line. A buddy uses a small electric massager. Someone here taped a dildo to the line and said it worked great iirc.

Probably replace it for a fix, don't have a why. I have a 2014 696 and the rear brake sucks and have been told that's how it is. Though I'm still convinced there is air in the abs or something else, but dealer says it's fine.

When I slam on my rear brake, I can get the abs to engage but sounds like a wack wack wack. Disabling abs t won't lock. Mind you I also just do this at low speeds for testing.

I think once I find a job and start making money again I'll probably trade/sell my 696 or swap out the brakes like another member is doing with their 796.

The ABS hardware is under the tank, so pretty high. I wonder how much air can potentially get caught up there.

Beyond proper bleeding, there are some hardware changes that can be made.

It already has the big piston/big pad caliper, so that upgrade was done by the factory.

I've had some success with aggressive pads, Ferodo SinterGrip to be specific, FDB2074ST.

BrakeTech makes a ductile iron full floating rotor, it's a very nice part.
http://www.braketech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=89&Itemid=107 (http://www.braketech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=89&Itemid=107)

I've used their previous version with Ferodo Platinum pads and it's a good combination.

To OP, before you start spending money, you can check how far your brake pedal is being depressed with your normal riding footwear and your normal riding position.

Sit on the bike (not running) with the usual riding gear (pants and boots) you wear, and press down the rear brake all the way down.

Then, try to push the bike back and forth. Can you move the bike?

IF you can, that means your brake pedal is not completely depressed. Change your foot wear (low cut shoes, something that allows more ankle movement ) and do the same thing.

If you can not fully press down the pedal with boots but can do with low cut shoes, you can simply raise the pedal position.

I think on 696, the rear brake pedal stroke is long, and the pedal is set low (deliberately done, so that it is less likely to induce rear wheel lock up in panic brake situation.)

Also, keep in mind that the “resistance” you feel from the brake pedal comes from the return spring, it has nothing to do with “how much brake force is applied” until the very end of the pedal stroke.

I found this diagram on the net.

(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj318/tk3445/M696_09_F_4_6_00_29_1_1.jpg)

The bolt " 7 " is the pedal height adjuster, I believe.

If turning that adjuster does not bring the pedal high enough, you can turn the shaft”19”, to make it stick out more. (what it does is now the brake starts working at the earlier point of the pedal stroke.)

Hope it helps.

Good one SP21.  I will check it out.
Meanwhile I have ordered the ST pads from braketech who mentioned this is a well known issue on the model and other Ducatis.