Hello everyone,
I have a Monster 796 2013 ABS and my horn and right turn signal do not work.
I took my bike to the shop today, to replace the left control (for horn, high beams, turn sign,et cetera) they replaced it and I tested it and still NADA. They took it back really quick and discovered the fuse was blown (which controls the right turn signal and the Horn) I got on the highway and boom out again, it only lasted about 2 minutes. Any one experience this before?
I have an fender eliminator and it was installed with no issues over a year ago.
I also forgot to mention that when I engage the right turn signal and then go to press the horn button, that the dash light for turn signal comes on but the actual right turn signals do not come on. The dealer is 20 miles a way and it is a PITA going there, want to check this out myself, any help is appreciated.
After doing a google search, I noticed one person on another fourm had this issue, but they seem to have stopped responding. Again, any help is appreciated.
Has to be a short somewhere. Either that or you got water into something that doesn't like it.
Edit: I found this..
"Ducati North America (Ducati) is recalling certain model year 2012-2013 1199 Panigale and Panigale S motorcycles. The left handlebar switch may not get power from its connection at the dashboard, preventing the horn, instrument panel display, high beam and right turn signals from functioning. As such, these motorcycles fail to conform to Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 123, "Motorcycle Controls and Displays."
Now i know this is not your bike but maybe they should check the connection to the dash.
So I pulled the fuse and replaced with a good 15Amp one. Doing one at a time, activated the right turn signal and it works. Deactivating the right turn signal then I activate the horn, and it works. I removed the fuse completely and gave it a go, both inoperable but when I have the right turn signal switch activated and I press the horn, I notice the left turn signal activates, all without the fuse! The left turn signal does activate normally without the fuse, but when I activate the right ts and horn the left activates. So it seems like the short is occurring somewhere in that path.
Sound firmiliar anyone? Thanks again.
Hey.
I had this issue with a 1100evo, replaced the fuse two times, the third time we started looking and it was a wire having contact with the seat lock (hope it was). Short tail and LED flashlights conversion.
Theres is a thread somewhere here concerning that problem...other points of interest were wire issues with it running underneath the electric motor in the back of the bike and where it is going close to the frame, especially older models used to have a screw that holds the bracket for the wires (was changed later on).
I wish you luck..it is better than replacing the dasboard...the flasher is supposed to be integrated in the dashboard.
Klaus
I appreciate your input Klaus! I will check out my fender eliminator and the wiring in a few days. I replaced the fuse and did not use my horn all day, the turn signals are working and no fuse blown. Ill figure it out eventually I guess haha. Thanks again!
If you are blowing fuses in that circuit you have a short. If it happens when you hit the horn look there. If it happens when you use the turn signal look there. Since you did a fender eliminator look there. Wire insulation could wear through over time.
A little advice, when you take a vehicle to the shop tell them what the problem is and let them diagnose it.
A bit of a thread jack, but you took it to the shop and the first thing they wanted to do was replace the controls? Only after it still wasn't working they checked the fuses?
If so, you may want to find a different shop...
I agree, but both shops in my vicinity seem to have incompetent workers. FML haha.
I took the bike in and will update on what caused the problem. Thanks guys!
Anyone have a monster 796 and want to help me test something really quick?
I have this issue where I keep popping a fuse on my 2013 796, when the fuse goes I loose my right turn signal and horn.
I noticed that once the fuse is blown or removed, and you activate the right turn signal and horn at the same time, my LEFT turnsignal comes on.
I want to know if someone with a M796 can see if the same happens when they remove their fuse?
The fuse that needs to be removed is fuse #3 Here is a fuse layout for simplification. I really appreciate the help.
Just a reminder, after the 3rd fuse is pulled, verify you don't have horn or right turn signal. After that activate right turn signal like you do when driving (leave it activated) and try to honk the horn... Does your LEFT turn signal come on when you do so? Thanks a million!!!
1st fuse Red 10
2nd Fuse Blue 15
3rd Fuse Blue 15 (pull this one)
4th Orange 5
5th Yellow 20
6th Orange 5
The other two fuses are spares...
OK, have you checked your tail chop wiring? You haven't told us about it . . .
Is difficult trying to follow an issue in X amount of different threads . . .
So, I hope this helps, follow the path of the highlighted wires, those are the POSITIVE wires . .. NOTICE how the turn signals are crossed linked:
Fr Rh > Rr Lh
Fr Lh > Rr Rh
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8468/29198933390_f40244cc53_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LudaC3)electwrng (https://flic.kr/p/LudaC3)
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8364/28865650173_984f3e4154_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KYL18F)turnsignal path (https://flic.kr/p/KYL18F)
I just got the bike back from the shop and took apart the tail portion today. I saw only two connectors (positive and negative going to the licsence plate light) with connectors which could have made contact with the frame. I solved this possible issue by using liquid electrical tape and dabed some in each connector, covering the exposed connector. These connectors were designed this way from evotech...
I try to keep my posts separate if they deviate from the topic. I made one post relating to this problem (this post), I made one about mechanics $%^# around and keeping my bike (which was brought in for this issue). I attempted to make a post asking for those specifically with a 796 monster, to try removing their fuse and seeing if they can replicate the left horn activiating with horn button pushed and right turn signal button activated. But that post was shot down. I doubt my success with having someone try to replicate the issue will now be confused with different types of Ducs being used, versus my original and most recent post asking specifically 796 Monster owners to try to replicate.
I appreciate the diagram, I looked over it for a few hours weeks ago and could not figure out where the short was at specifically, being short on time, I decided to take it in... I have another shop picking up the bike Wednesday. I am going to ride the bike tomorrow, if the fuse does not blow, I will probably call the shop and postpone hoping I corrected the issue.
OK, so, if your bike's horn and FrRh signal work after "isolating" the connectors, then, your issue is solved, if not, I would, personally, like to know if you have AFTERMARKET, turn signals; as you can see, turn signals "relay" IS IN the instrument panel, so, IF, by any reason, a larger than usual current or voltage surge/spike circulated, it might have damaged the instrument panel.
Please note I said "MIGHT" . . . do not despair, and just try to merge your threads, it is easier for us to understand and try to help you . . . even from more than 1000mls away
When the fuse is not blown, the horn and turn signals operate as they should. It is only when the fuse is blown or removed, I lose horn and right turn signal. Front and Rear turn signals activate correctly with unblown fuse.
The turn signals are OEM, front and rear. I am only running an evotech fender eliminator which retains the stock OEM parts and for the most part the connectors. The only exception to this was the license plate light which is now a LED.
Please, disconnect said license plate light and inform us of outcome
Beyond pissed, I discovered the shop did not put my O2 Sensor and Power commander V wires back and one of the connectors melted on the exhaust.
Called the shop, emailed pictures as requested and awaiting a response from the service manager.
If you read my other post, you will notice they killed my new battery tender Li-Ion battery too.
Yes, aware of bat issue . . .
New issue will have to wait for an answer from a shop that seems to mess up more that what it fixes . . .
Is bike working "OK" in the meantime?
So I rode the bike to and from my destination (26 miles each way) and no blown fuses! So far so good. Even my PC seems to be still working despite the melted connector, but I don't know how much damage there is to said connector.
Ok... keep riding if possible and keep us in the loop . . . somehow I think you solved the issue with the isolation of the connectors
The shop is picking my bike up tomorrow, The connector that melted, from the O2 optimizer, seems to have fused to the bikes wiring harness connector.
It looks like there is a possibility of them replacing the O2 optimizer ($150 from power commander) and replacing the wiring harness for my bike ($$$). I will update for certain what the repair is. If they end up replacing the whole wiring harness, I will still see if I have the right turn signal and horn activated makes left turn signal lamps come on issue.
They say they need a few days to figure this whole mess out. Obviously no charge to myself and I firmly requested the "mechanic" that F#ked up my bike worked on my bike, no longer does so. He assured me the mechanic will not work on it anymore.
Ok
Any news?
Hey,
Yea, I got a call Saturday saying they found a place that stocks oem connectors and will order, should be here Monday or Tuesday. And should be a day or two after received for a repair.
I don't know how they are doing it exactly, but they are cutting off the melted connectors on both ends and will attach the new connectors. I was expecting a new PC optimizer and repair job on the harness but I guess I am at their mercy.
Hello everyone,
I'm replying here as I have the same exact symptoms but don't think it's due to the O2 sensor or power commander.
The issue started after I changed the oem exhausts for a set of Termi's. I had to open the rear tail as the indicators got a bit too close to the muffler and pinched a cable, which I guess started it all. I opened it, fixed the pinched cable and keep blowing the same fuse, but always after riding the bike a few minutes, as @cintronr. I brought the bike to two Ducati specialists, without success.
I started to disconnect all the different elements connected to that circuit to isolate the issue and it is not occurring when the front break switch and rear brake switch are disconnected. So I guess it bust be a short between those and the rear light brake cable, but I couldn't see anything.
Can the isolation tape wear out within the years?
Many thanks in advance
Anything is possible. I would consider getting an autoelectriction onto the case. Possible pressure on wire in tail tidy when bolts torqued or short at the loom stretched around the steering head.