Hello! Thanks to a number of factors (new toy and pretty rainy summer...), my riding this past summer (2006 M620 Dark) was limited to just a few rides. When I did take her out for what was my last ride of the summer, I noticed the speedometer needle start to move all over the place, especially at low speeds. It'd either stay at the low end, or ramp up and then go back down. By the next ride, my odometer stopped registering elapsed miles. Since it was the end of the summer I figured I'd deal with it later (which is now). The bike pretty much stays out all summer, and we get a fair amount of rain here. Since I promised myself I'm going to ride more this summer, I should get her fixed. Since I'm not mechanically inclined, does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be the problem and what I could do to fix it? The last independent motorcycle shop in my town closed down a couple months ago anyways, and there is no Ducati dealer here for me to take her to. Ironically, the impetus for this was someone in my parking lot asking if I would be interested in selling the bike. Made me realize how much I wanted to ride her more ;D Thanks for any suggestions in advance!
EDIT: I forgot to add that my bike was starting normally and the gauges were doing the sweep as usual on startup. All lights on the gauge were normal too.
You mention rain and after the rain the Sun shines and water evaps . . . This is humidity related, MOST probably
I would suggest:
1. Disconnect battery
2. Take dashboard off bike and bring inside
3. Let it dry inside for a while
4. Repeat steps 2 and 1 inversely
5. Report if something happened
Thanks very much for the suggestion! Since we're in the middle of a snow-storm today [bang], I'll have to wait until the weekend when it's supposed to be sunny, cold, and very dry to take the dashboard apart (bike's currently outside). I'll keep you updated on whether it works. Is there anything I need to know about before taking the dashboard off (besides battery disconnection), or is it a straightforward enough removal?
undo two bolts on top triple, flip, disconnect > take inside where is warm and cozy . . .
Update: So we finally got good enough weather that I could consider riding the bike. I had to get a charger for my dead battery before riding to my friends garage to take the console off. Charged up the battery, put it back in the bike, and lo and behold the speedometer and odometer were just fine. Took it for a ride on the day of, and another 50 mile ride today (a week after the first ride), and everything's fine. Guess it was my battery packing it in!
Voltage is good. ;D
Couldn't agree more! ;D Now I just need to get my butt in gear and change out the timing belts (Not entirely sure but the bike might still have the original one's from 2006).
I wouldn't push your luck any farther. The results from a broken belt aren't worth a 50 mile putt.
Battery question related to my speedo issue mentioned above-so after a long trouble-free ride to downtown yesterday, I pulled off to the side and switched off the bike for a breather. Turned it on a few minutes later, and this time the needles didn't do the customary sweep, and the odometer was only showing dashes. The speedometer was working fine though. Curiously the temperature gauge was registering between 90-100 degrees (which I've never seen since it always just shows "LO" below 120). Also the engine immobilizer light wasn't blinking. I switched the bike on-off a few times over the day and today as well, and got the same result. I got out my battery to charge it up again. If the bike works properly I know it's the battery for sure, which I think it is.
I currently have a Yuasa YT12B-BS battery in there, which I'm not sure if it's original or not. Anyway, curiously when I looked on Amazon, they say this battery does not fit a 2006 Ducati M620? While that is obviously wrong on their part, any suggestions as to whether I should just stick with this brand or get a different battery? Regardless I'll have to hopefully get O'Reilly's out here to order one for me since no one can ship to AK. Thanks!
THAT IS the OEM battery
Thanks for clarifying. I knew there wasn't a problem with fit as Amazon said, since it was obviously in the motorcycle. I guess this is the brand I'll stick with then, after I make sure tonight that it is the battery that's causing the issue.
I got seven years out of my Yuasa. And it was still starting the bike.
Anyway, first fully charge the battery and have it load tested. Then check the charging system. After that worry about the wonky dash.
try and use this,
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByWmgp1DWQaiU1FFLXRKNjF4Nk0
if don't work, let me know, at times it gets wonky and doesn't like to share although I told it to
Thanks DarkMonster620, I was able to get the manual. I just got the battery back from O'Reillys, and they said the battery is good. I'm having a hard time believing that, but oh well. I put it back into the Monster, and still the same issue.
1) No needle sweep on start up
2) This time my Temp gauge is at least registering "LO" on startup instead of 90 degrees like it did earlier
3) Odometer reads "-------",
4) No immobilizer light.
I did notice while reconnecting my battery that the tach needle and speedometer needle jumped up on the gauges and stayed put for a bit before coming back down. Not sure if this has any bearing on the problem. Headlight and signals are all fine. Bike starts up fine too.
This is getting frustrating! [bang]
Bike starts? Was the ECU ever flashed to kill the immobilizer? Check all the pins in the connector to the gauges. One or more may have backed out.
Yeah, the bike starts just fine and I'm able to ride it (at least I did a couple of days ago) even with the speedometer and tach display issue. I was going over the manual that DarkMonster620 sent-well just the pictures since it's in French and German ;D, but the section about the console has a couple of photographs that look somewhat like what's happening in my tach display on ignition. It starts going through a series of digits (I can give you the exact sequence tomorrow) like it's reformatting, and then goes to the temp display, and normal time display on toggling. ECU has never been flashed to kill the immobilizer. And I only have one black key, so hopefully that's not the issue...
When you suggest checking the pins in the connector to the gauges, are you referring to the single connection (with the wire bundle) that is connected to the back of the gauges?
Uuuuups!
Soooorry!!! Will loom for English/Italian one . . .
Yes, that one. The fact that the bike starts means the ECU, gauges and key are all communicating. This means part of the gauges are getting power or ground, but not all. The problem is either in the wiring or the gauges themselves.
Wiring schematic here http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do at the end of the manual.
I'll look at the connector to the gauges today, and check the connecting pins. If they all look good, what would you suggest I follow up on next? Mechanical and electrical system ignoramus here, so any and all suggestions are highly valued! DarkMonster620, figured you'd accidentally sent the wrong manual ;D
Perhaps the next step should be qualified repair shop since replacing parts randomly gets expensive.
I really wish that were an option. Unfortunately there's only a Honda place in town, and one independent place (if it hasn't closed down by now). So I'm it.
Update: So I wanted a second opinion on the battery under load testing-I had a hard time believing that the battery test showed it as good yesterday (I had also charged the battery up fully yesterday). My friends load-tester just now showed the battery was on the border of bad-weak under load. We also checked the bike charging system for the battery, and that showed as good.
So the next thing I'm going to try is to again charge the battery up fully tomorrow using a charger, and in the evening take it over to my friend and load-test it. If it still shows as bad-weak, I'm guessing that's at least part of the problem if not all. Also, Howie, I removed the console and checked the connector pins as you'd suggested. They all looked good, and I couldn't see any signs of corrosion anywhere.
A poor battery can make electronics go wonky beyond logic. Don't pull your hair out until you know you are dealing with a good battery.
Update: Finally received a new battery and installed it. Turned the key and I still have the same problem. The odometer isn't working, with a display that reads "Total------", while the trip meter works, but resets itself to 0.0 everytime I switch off the ignition. The tach display window holds the time, but is still giving me a temperature read from 50C instead of showing "LO". And neither the speedometer or tachometer needle are doing the initial diagnostic sweep. Just went for a short ride, and everything else is working just fine, including the speedometer and tachometer. Now this is just getting frustrating.
I'd say the cluster is fuxxored.
If so, is it even possible for me to replace the instrument cluster, while holding on to my key? I unfortunately have only one black key ;D (not my fault, I bought the bike from the third owner.....), and it's not worth the expense taking (i.e. shipping), the bike to the nearest Ducati dealer in Anchorage.
Yes, send your ECU off to get the immobilizer disabled, then you can use any compatible cluster.
At that point, AFAIK, you can just get a blank key or two cut to match the one you've got.
There's hope!! Any suggestions as to where I can send the ECU to get the immobilizer disabled? I'm in Juneau, AK. Wonderful place to be for every motorcycle except for a Ducati.
http://sosdiagnostics.com/Ducati.html
Much appreciated. Thanks!
Sorry to resurrect an old thread. This is what happens when I foolishly get two more toys instead that then take up too much of my time ;D I finally got around to contacting SOS diagnostics about my ECU, and he also suggested that I could instead reprogram my replacement cluster to run with the current ECU and not lose the immobilizer. I'm tending towards doing that rather than disabling the ECU immobilizer since there's been a rash of auto thefts over the past year in town. Just got off the phone with the nearest Ducati dealer in Anchorage, and a replacement instrument cluster is $910. Anyone have any suggestions as to where I can get a cluster for cheaper? I'm okay with a used cluster, as long as it works. Thanks! Edit: I did look at Ebay, and looks like I can potentially get an S2R 800 cluster, with key, ECU, tank cap etc for cheaper. Would that cluster be compatible with my 2006 M620? And since it comes with an ECU, I guess that would take care of any reflashing issues.
The cluster should work fine, the mapping on the 800 ecu, debateable.
Have you fully disassembled the current gauge cluster? (Popping off the needles and removing the circuit board) I have found condensation created corrosion that I was able to clean to get a previous cluster semi-functioning (left blinker was always on).
Hmm, thanks, the ECU is what I was wondering about (wasn't sure if there was different wiring that might cause problems). I guess it helps that the cluster itself from an 800 will work. I've found used 800 clusters, but not used 620 clusters so far. Also I have not disassembled my current gauge cluster. And I'm sure the problems are condensation related since the Monster is outside all summer, and we get a ton of rain. But now that you mention it, I should try taking it apart if that helps, since I haven't got anything to lose. Is it a fairly complex or straightforward process?
Also, where is the ECU located in the M620? This is sometimes why I prefer working on my old Wagoneer instead.....
The gauge removal is simple, but you just need to be gentle and test BEFORE reassembly, as you need to pop the needles off and they are another gauge weakpoint.
Unplug gauges, depending on year and dash unit you may need to unscrew the middle face plate or just pop it off. Then a small torx bit will remove the front face with the glass. CAREFULLY pop the needles off, remove the circuit board and look for any signs of green corrosion or dirt etc. Get a q-tip and some contact cleaner to anything you see. Then before reassembly, plug in and confirm everything works like normal (without the needles). Then reassemble up to placing the needles and again, test with dash to see the needles do a full sweep and return to zero. Adjust as necessary. Then you can finish buttoning it up. I'd also get some grease on the rubber gasket to help waterproof (because the stock rubber is next to useless otherwise).
I ran s4r gauges on my 620/800 with no real issues, along with 695 and 620.
As for the 800 mapping, it may work kind of close, or you'll have to spend a couple hundred on a reflash to a 620 map. I know my 2002 620 had the adjustable TPS, where the 800 map required the nonadjustable unit. You may have the same nonadjustable unit on your 2006, which means the only difference is fueling.
Thanks for the tips, I appreciate it! I'm hoping to be able to take it apart this weekend and clean it out. I'll try that route out first, and if the cluster still doesn't work, guess I'll have to get a replacement dash.
-wait!- I had a similar problem on an 06; I got some good advice on DMF to check the connection on the bottom wire clip to the button on the screw in sensor; bottom right side of the bike; and voila! fixed it fixer than fixed.
Hope that works for you too.
Well, I'd already taken it apart last weekend ;D Got to put in back on tomorrow and see if it works! And evidently I can't figure how to post photographs from Flickr on here.
Good luck. :)
There's a how to in FAQs and Policies. Takes some practice, but even an old Luddite like me can do it. Posting Flickr links is easy but trimming each end of the link reveals the pic.
Oh I went through the FAQ's and still couldn't get it to work. I know that it's operator error from yours truly ;D I tried to just post the link, but when I previewed the post, it didn't show the pic. I'm happy to hear someone else use the term "Luddite" ;D. I mentioned that I was one to a 25 year old, and she looked at me with this "I don't comprehend what you say" look...sigh.
Well, this Luddite is going to try posting this pic again:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/111553486@N06/25980648147/in/datetaken/
Quote from: AK ducati on March 17, 2018, 01:01:30 AM
Well, this Luddite is going to try posting this pic again:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/111553486@N06/25980648147/in/datetaken/
Nope...
If you're posting from a phone, flickr is impossible. If you're on a computer it's relatively easy.
Okay, trying this again. I finally stumbled my way on finding the BB code from for the pic
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/803/25980648147_81abb23bfc_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FzPBxr)20180311_141817 (https://flic.kr/p/FzPBxr) by a b (https://www.flickr.com/photos/111553486@N06/), on Flickr
[thumbsup]
Quote from: koko64 on March 17, 2018, 08:51:40 PM
[thumbsup]
lol ... [thumbsup]
had similar problems so don't feel too stupid
now that gauge set being apart like that ;D... hummm; dam brave and adventurous of ya dude!
keep us posted as to how this works out ..
Well this is just frustrating. So I finally got around to putting the gauge back on. Tested it yesterday, and on turning the key, the gauge did the diagnostic sweep and showed the odometer reading (which it hadn't been). However, when I tried to start it, the battery died. Pulled the battery, charged it up and put it back in today, and the gauge now is not doing the sweep anymore, nor is it showing the odometer reading! Before I spend between $600-900 for a used/new gauge set-up, is there any way of making sure it's the gauge that's messed up and not the wiring??
Is the gauge getting power, and does the bike start?
I'd have to dig up the wiring diagram again and trace through it to see what could cause that harness wise.
Double check the ecu ground that comes from the battery (small cable that bolts into the side with an M6ish bolt). Only saying that because of it changing behavior on a charged battery, don't expect it to be the case that it's loose.
Yeah, the gauge is getting power, and the bike starts and runs fine. I should've added earlier that the battery only died because the bike was in storage for the winter and hadn't been started for a few months. Today, with the charged battery, the bike started up multiple times no problem. All the lights/turn signals worked fine too. Even the idiot light for low fuel came on as it should've, along with "Low Fuel" warning on the Tach digital read out. Didn't seem like any other electrical issue besides the odometer only reading "----", and the needles not doing a sweep, which was the original issue to begin with. I didn't ride the bike, but I'll bet that the speedometer needle isn't going to be working either. Thanks for the tip, I'll check the ECU ground from the battery tomorrow, and make sure it's not loose. I'd just like to make sure if I can that it's not a wiring issue before I go down the expensive replacement console route.
Well I just checked the ECU ground by the battery. It's bolted on tight and seems in good shape. Unfortunately that doesn't seem to be the issue.
Drats.
I'm somewhat at a loss. I've had needles not sweep with constant on/off of the key in rapid succession, but not consistently.
Annoying that it all worked great at least once. So unless it's a shoddy connection somewhere in the wiring harness, or dirty pins on the ecu and it's connectors, it's probably the gauges.
I had one cluster that was permanently flashing the left blinker no matter how many times I cleaned and disassembled it. Swapping clusters (and flashing the ecu so I could) fixed it. I'm not sure how else to test that in your case. The odometer reading is stored within the cluster itself, so even if it isn't getting a reading from any sensor, it "should" have a number there.
Needles sweeping the associated motors could be chalked up to a mechanical issue maybe.
Might be worth it to send the gauges off to SOS since you have no way to confirm the gauges are good and you checked all connections and grounds.
Yeah, I guess it's starting to look like it is a faulty cluster. Oh well, I did want to make sure before going down the expensive cluster replacement route. Thanks very much for all the helpful suggestions!
Update: Been riding the bike so far, and while the needles aren't doing their sweep, and the odometer, trip, and engine temp functions are still not working, the speedometer needle has been working consistently (knock on wood....), which is good enough for now!
Well thats servicable until a long term solution is found. Surely there are automotive instrument repairers around? Its probably a lost art with parts replacement over repair nowdays. There's an old guy 25 mins from me that can fix everything from modern stuff to old Smiths clocks. I hope he's teaching someone.
Quote from: koko64 on May 17, 2018, 08:08:54 PM
Well thats servicable until a long term solution is found. Surely there are automotive instrument repairers around? Its probably a lost art with parts replacement over repair nowdays. There's an old guy 25 mins from me that can fix everything from modern stuff to old Smiths clocks. I hope he's teaching someone.
http://sosdiagnostics.com/Ducati.html
Definately worth a call [thumbsup]