Ducati Monster Forum

I took my tires to a shop to get them mounted. The guy did the rear ok, but couldn't do the front because of the rotor size. it's more of an older bike shop.
So I went to Yamaha to get the rear balanced, and the front mounted. I picked em up today and put the front on, but it turned hard! Loosened up the axle again, still hard. Took the calipers back off and it spun easy. I looked at it turning and there must be at least 1/8" runout on each side, but at different spots in the rotor - about 90degrees off.

There was always pulsing under 5mph or so, but I havent' even squeezed the lever and it's grabbing at those spots.
I'm guessing I'm pretty well screwed here and have to get new rotors and carriers?

Are you suggesting that somehow the tire change process caused your rotors to warp? It seems more likely they were installed improperly somehow (if they were removed, that is). Maybe you should check to make sure they are on straight and everything.

Just take them off. It's easy to see if they're warped, just lay them flat on a glass surface.

Also, major "warp-like" effects can be caused by frozen buttons on your rotors. Clean them out thoroughly, and check to make sure they move freely. If you spray them with lubricant *very carefully*, you may notice the problem disappear immediately.

Rotors can be warped during tire change. Ass me how I know.

Happened to me. Really the carriers are what warped.

That's why I went to the full floaters with carbon ceramic cp211 pads from BrakeTech.  wt: Great brakes, but Spensive though.

LA

The rotors weren't removed from what I can tell. No tool marks on the Torx bolts. I pulled the rotors off, and did the socket/hammer thing to make em float. it's much better, but still doesn't spin quite freely.
I imagine they could be bent by not using the right tool for the job. i.e. using some cheapo changer that works fine on old wheels with small discs. or using spoons and prying against the rotor.

Can't prove anyone did anything wrong, since it was at 2 shops. I wont get to ride it for almost 2 weeks cuz I'm going on vacation this weekend (to AZ!). When I get back I'll test drive it and see how it is.  If it's unacceptable I'll have to try to find some used rotors. I don't have the money for even new stockers after buying the GasGas and going on vacation  :wine

I have a set of used rotors from my 2000 m900. They aren't worth much, since I removed them because I thought they were warped...

The do work fine though, and probably would benefit from a good button cleaning. Realistically it may not be worth their value to ship them since rotors are heavy.

You should just get new ones. New rotors are fun! I bought some Galfer waves, and in addition to looking cool, I immediately noticed an increase in maneuverability due to the lower weight. Lighter rotors are a huge upgrade in general.

What about switching to full-floating buttons?  Can you just replace the OEM ones?

I think the last time I saw those buttons it took something like $220 for two rotors.

LA

Gald to see you made it here man. I had some full floaters on a few of my other bikes. They were always very noisy at low speeds and over bumps. Are yours like this? You got the rotors from Braketech too? What is the dusting like on the ceramics?

Sorry for the threadjack. Kind of.... But inquiring minds need to know (mine are warping from blitzkreig stops, man I just have to stay off 253! NOT!)

I think motowheels sells the full floating buttons for $7 each. Way too much money considering I did the same thing with a hammer and socket for free :) Rattles just spinning the wheel. Cool! I'm sure I'll be able to hear that over my clutch  [cheeky]


Ideally I'd get new rotors, but like I said, I can't keep throwing money at the bike. I might be able to get em later in the year, but still need to ride til then. Unless someone can point me in a different direction, the cheapest I'm seeing is about 200 each?

Alex if those rotors are straight, are they the same as on my S4R? Shipping wouldn't be too bad I'm sure. Like 15lbs including packing. I'm gonna ask to see if others have some too.

I've got a set of the BrakeTech rotors, and they do make a bit of noise over bumps, and occasionally rattle a bit when backing up.
Doesn't bother me.

I wish I could tell you how the dusting is with the Carbon-Ceramic rotors.

Thanks for the rotor info. I doubt he has Carbon-Ceramic rotors, I have never seen those that are DOT legal. I'm pretty sure from the way he stated it, he is only running Carbon-Ceramic pads. I have some of these in my truck for the performance and they were supposed to be low dusting but I can't tell a diff at all!

I haven't noticed any dusting from the pads at all.  The brakes are the absolute cat's ass though. Just don't put the bike away wet and leave it for more than overnight. Even in that period of time the rotors will "rust" to the pads. After a three day layup I had to drag the bike out of the garage and use the engine to get the front wheel free.

Best damn brakes ever though. wt:

LA

 

You got part numbers, pics and linky?  ;D

If you mean iron rotors or Carbon-Ceramic, braketech.com.

I wanted to know which rotors Larry is running. There are 3 listed.

I agree with LA, the mechanic most likley bent your carriers.

Don't know how handy you are but I have straightened bent carriers with the judicious use of a mallet...You mallet the carrier only...Not the actual rotor.

My ST4 had over 0.050 runout and I got it down to 0.015 with nothing but a mallet and the sense to know where and how hard to use the mallet.

I'd try taking it back to the shop who did the tire change. They will probably deny any guilt but it is worth a try.

Hypurone,

I'm using the iron BrakeTech rotors which can be bought directly from BrakeTech, but I found out Chris sells em and cheaper. They are reputed to be a little better that the stainless steel rotors (coefficient of friction?), but not in any way that could be measured or that you are likely to be able to feel on the street.  If you ask Chris at Ca-cycle Works or the guy at BrakeTech they will probably tell you the same. I've used iron for years (old Ducs and Guzzis) and don't mind the rust thing, which is not really a bother to me.

The carbon ceramic cp211 pads work well with the iron or ss rotors.

So far as the bent carriers are concerned, I think OldDuckMan is correct in that they should be able to straightened with some correctly applied hammer work and time spent with a dial indicator.


LA

Thanks man.

I totally missed the method of how to use the socket and hammer to make your rotors float.

i just learned about it yesterday and went and did it, its awesome and free, also, a 19mm was too small for my buttons, i used 3 20mm sockets to support the rotor flat, and whacked away

Can we have a how to or link or something? Please? :)