Hey all! the ecu i have is for a M796. Is the PC5 a good alternative? the bike has the full termi exhaust. ty
Saw this post http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=64179.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=64179.0) but didn't see the numbers that are on this ecu which show 286.4.185.2A on one side and M796ABSRAC on the other -pretty sure that one will not jive.
any help you guys could share would be great.
anybody use a power commander V ? curious about how it works with Duc's
I like Powercommanders dyno tuned for the individual bike's modifications. I think they work well.
Some like to have the ECU reflashed and some do both for the ultimate tune.
My 09' 1100S is dyno tuned with a power commander and full Termignoni exhaust. The tune is OK, I feel the tune quality is dependent of the experience of the tuner. My bike runs 100% better, especially idle to 3000 rpm, but I feel a better tune is needed. My 1198 has its ecm flashed specifically for the setup of the engine and runs better than my custom dyno tuned 1100!
It's true. It's all in the tune and the tuner.
I have heard of both dyno tune maps and reflash maps needing a tweak on some bikes to get it just so. Not only are there "canned" reflash maps but "canned" Powercommander maps from Dynojet's Powercommander library that may match your mods. These canned maps can serve as a baseline for a finishing tune or if you are lucky be so close that you are happy.
Worth reading the closed loop ecu mods thread atop the modification section.
Just so you know, sponsors Motowheels do reflashes and Monsterparts sells Powercommanders. The sponsors help keep this place running without annoying spam. [thumbsup]
Tnx for the replies gents. Good advice from both. koko64 tnx for the sponsors and closed loop ecu heads up, I'll read that tomorrow.
danaid, would love a pic of your bike with focus on the exhaust thoughout. I don't have a picture reference to go by on this install. The rear exhaust pipe connecting to the head spacer under the shock would help with identifying how it should look and it's position. Also the center pipe it connects to, to show how far away from the tire hugger. Spacing seems to be an issue with this setup unless I just need to tweak it a bit.
I bought the full exhaust off ebay. Instructions and part # look right, although it arrived with an ecu for a M796 ABS. The price was right and so far the install is going ok for this novice wrench turner but as I mentioned, pics would help a bunch.
Dealer today said to stay away from PC5's as it is just another variable for something to not function correctly. Said reflash was the way to go. I think I agree with that but also know from a previous Honda VFR the PC's are worth the money and time spent.
Quote from: KogMo11s on June 13, 2017, 10:01:53 PM
Tnx for the replies gents. Good advice from both. koko64 tnx for the sponsors and closed loop ecu heads up, I'll read that tomorrow.
danaid, would love a pic of your bike with focus on the exhaust thoughout. I don't have a picture reference to go by on this install. The rear exhaust pipe connecting to the head spacer under the shock would help with identifying how it should look and it's position. Also the center pipe it connects to, to show how far away from the tire hugger. Spacing seems to be an issue with this setup unless I just need to tweak it a bit.
I bought the full exhaust off ebay. Instructions and part # look right, although it arrived with an ecu for a M796 ABS. The price was right and so far the install is going ok for this novice wrench turner but as I mentioned, pics would help a bunch.
Dealer today said to stay away from PC5's as it is just another variable for something to not function correctly. Said reflash was the way to go. I think I agree with that but also know from a previous Honda VFR the PC's are worth the money and time spent.
I sent you a few pics of my exhaust, let me know if you need a better angle.
Here is a possible problem, the full system reuses your o2 sensors with an extension wire that should have been included and the correct ecm might be needed. The power commander uses an o2 optimizer that will fix the bottom end leanness that the stock or Termignoni map will not touch(read the closed loop thread) and can be properly tuned on a dyno. You can send the ecm to a tuner like Motowheels, one of our sponsors, and they can remove the o2 sensors with the reflash and map they might have already on file. you need to call them and find out what they can do for you! This would be my solution as here in California, most of the tuners have closed up shop because of the strict emissions laws after 2013.
Quote from: danaid on June 14, 2017, 01:35:50 PM
I sent you a few pics of my exhaust, let me know if you need a better angle.
Here is a possible problem, the full system reuses your o2 sensors with an extension wire that should have been included and the correct ecm might be needed. The power commander uses an o2 optimizer that will fix the bottom end leanness that the stock or Termignoni map will not touch(read the closed loop thread) and can be properly tuned on a dyno. You can send the ecm to a tuner like Motowheels, one of our sponsors, and they can remove the o2 sensors with the reflash and map they might have already on file. you need to call them and find out what they can do for you! This would be my solution as here in California, most of the tuners have closed up shop because of the strict emissions laws after 2013.
Tnx again for the pics and info danaid.
I do have the o2 extensions. Will get back to the install and report back this weekend for sure. -Always busy at night after work (care-giver). I'll have to send the stock ecm to Motowheels as my local dealership doesn't seem interested in doing the reflash.
I'll call Motowheels tomorrow.
You guys are a HUGE help. TY!
Install is complete. yay! Spacing looks good. No issues other than the guy holding the wrench. Just need to route lambda wire and check all connections.
Talked to a buddy who said the local Duc dealership would reflash his Diavel ecm whenever he was rdy to go. If they can reflash the Diavel, I imagine they can do mine. I'll find out Tuesday (closed Mon.)
ok, so I'm sending out the ecm to motowheels for the reflash (removing o2's). Crossing fingers it's plug and play. PCv and dyno if not happy with results. ...this thing is turning into a money pit!
I see the bungs on their website for the exhaust pipe but don't see an end-plug for the 02's on the wire harness.
How did you address yours?
tnx ...sry for the stupid question earlier
The full Termignoni exhausts uses the o2 so you will have to find plugs for those or simply leave them in place. You also have to transfer over small plugs over from your stock exhaust if they weren't already installed from the previous owner. The exhaust valve motor is removed and a dummy plug was included to covers the leftover exposed wire harness. The o2 extension is for the front cylinder?
Yes, the front cylinder. Both are mounted in place. I routed the extension upwards and along where the battery sits, to the other side of the bike keeping it as far away from heat as possible. The smaller bungs are transferred and in place on new exhaust. Exhaust valve disconnected and plugged with supplied dummy plug.
On the Motowheels website I have the option to have the o2's eliminated ..but now that you mention it, I think I should leave them enabled. If I ever do install a pcv, then, I've read where the ecu/o2 sensors will be in conflict with the pcv -one tries to lean and the other tries to add more fuel. -please correct me if I am wrong.
I'm hoping it's plug n play w/o the pcv until later when I can dyno it. Just trying to make sure I make the right choice on whether to enable or disable. I'll talk to Matt or Stefano (?) tomorrow.
sending out ecu to Matt @ MW. --disabling o2's.
Super stoked to get it back ...almost paid the xtra 160ish for two day shipping but then remembered I'm already over budget!
Still want to look into a pcv and dyno but will wait until after reflash.
danaid, have you swapped out battery cables for easier starting?
No, not yet , I did so with my 1198 as the hard starting was severe! The improved fueling fixed the hard starting, the severe lean tuning caused by euro 3 emissions, and I added a lithium battery so the bike starts mostly instantly.
I used this, http://www.motolectric.com/makes/ducati.html for my 1198. When they go on sale again I'll add this to my 1100.
Well, got it back from Moto Wheels, put it back together and it runs very well ...above 3500! Have to finesse the throttle down at lower rpm's but no problem there -just takes some getting used to. I'm sure the PCV will sort that out.
Super stoked with the way it runs and sounds. ...lol After I got it all back together to take 'er out for the first time, I went to fill it up with gas. With a big grin, I filled it to below the gas cap flange/neck (?) gave it a back and forth motion to see just how much room I had and promptly spewed gas all over the tank farings ..key area, some dripped on the frame... I cursed myself as the gas guy just kinda grinned and offered me more towells- wiped it off went home and thoroughly cleaned it. ...I'm such a dork sometimes! haha all is good tho. Really luving the Duc rumble.
Did moto wheels tell you which map they were using? A custom made one? The bottom end power should not be missing, I would send it back and ask if there are other maps available!
I had my 1198 ecm flashed here, http://houstonsuperbikes.com/p-7857-services.html
When I ordered my exhaust from them, I explained to them I'm in California and powercommander/dyno tune, like on my monster, was no longer an option. They said I had a choice of a custom map they made for the 1198 for racing, or the unaltered map from the Termignoni factory. I chose the untouched by Ducati Termignoni map which is a fully developed for the 1198, unaltered by emissions.
The herky jerky'ness at or below 3k RPM is about the same as a 2012 Diavel with full exhaust I test rode at the local Duc dealership a while back. It's like riding an untamed bull. Which I kinda like. The bottom end power is still there when you twist the throttle -which smooths the herky jerk and pulls as it should while singing an Italian love song to boot.
It does smell like it's running rich tho, which has me wondering if I should just dyno it to dial in the AF mix. I didn't ask about the map specifics but when I gave him details about what I had, he quickly said he had a map for my setup. I'll call to get specifics and talk to him about the rich fuel smell. (but I will still want to dyno it to dial it in).
Still getting used to the bike too. Taking off from a dead stop can sometimes be a bit rough. It def needs a bit more throttle as compared to the Zed.
Bottom line, I luv this bike. Sweet ride that has it's own personality.
Also, I have found that cranking it over just after the fuel pump stops, works best in the mornings. Otherwise if I wait for the text message to complete it will fire once then die. Then act like it's flooded. ? dunno man, maybe personality, maybe something else. (AF mix) ?
Curious... what does your text message say? Mine is M1100 EVO DE Pretty sure the 09 is not an EVO and I don't know what the DE stands for.
Mine has the evo also, De is probably the language. I had to set language back to U.S
yeah me too. MW had the fix on their website.
Went out today to start it for the first time (today) - right after fuel pump stopped, I cranked her over and she fired right up. Hopefully this will work every time.
also, one of the cans is slightly leaking from the (rear) connection to the mid pipe. That could possibly be the rich exhaust smell? Not sure. Will try to fix that tomorrow.
Nope, probably fuel added from the new map
yup, I agree. Spent the weekend riding with a guy who is running aftermarket exhaust on his Diavel. I smelled the same richness as I do with mine so I'm not too worried about that right now. And, the bike ran awesome all weekend. ~300miles or so.
BUT I did notice another issue... the clutch reservoir had about a 1/4 to a third amount left in it at the end of the weekend. I noticed a small leak from the seal on the bottom of the bike (left hand side). I guess that's the alternator cover? Anyway each time I stopped, I saw a drop of oil on the ground dripping from what looked to originate from the seal/gasket. But where is the clutch fluid going?
After looking at the repair manual, I see the tube from the clutch going to the clutch slave cylinder unit. I'm assuming that one is bad and is leaking but I see no weeping on or around the unit. Can the unit leak into the engine oil via the push rod? Not sure how that all works but in the manual I see two O rings on the push rod and if those go bad could that cause the leak?
Also, occasionally I notice a sound coming from the same side when I let the clutch out as the clutch engages. Almost like a slipping before gripping noise. -if that makes any sense. I'm assuming it's the Dot4 leak causing the noise.
Any help would be appreciated.
Check if the bleeder valve on the slave is closed tight. It is good habit to bleed the master and slave at least once a year, or more to cure the miss shifts and hard to find neutral. If your clutch is slipping you certainly have a leak somewhere, probably the slave piston seal.
The slave cylinder seems to be hit or miss with certain models. I have had no issues with mine. Many riders quickly change out the slave with an Oberon brand slave which is arguably the best. It gives the clutch an easier pull and has a more durable design. If the clutch disks are wet with fluid, you can replace the slave seals (budget) or get a new one, some new slaves come with the new o-rinds for the push rod. Be sure to remove the clutch plates and clean them so they won't burn.
I only had any issue with the clutch reservoir cap leaking from simply removing it for the first time to add fluid, it leaked from than on. Perfect excuse to add new rizoma fluid reservoirs!
The only way clutch fluid volume goes down is a leak. What you are seeing is probably fluid coming out behind the cylinder through the weep hole in back if the slave. Remove the slave and take a look.Since I can't hear the noise I can't comment.
Tnx howie. Didn't know about the weep hole. I'll remove and check it out as soon as work lightens up a bit. I imagine the sound will go away when I replace the slave. Was thinking of replacing with an Oberon. Thoughts?
I'm going to pull the push rod out and have a look at the seals too. It looks like it just pulls out without anything tricky. Have you seen or done this before?
Can the clutch fluid get into the case? Should I change the oil?
a lot of questions... I know, sorry!
Ok so I replaced the Slave cylinder with an Oberon unit since the oem unit was leaking from the weep hole as mentioned by howie- tnx man :)
I didn't pull the clutch pushrod because I chickened out :-\ was unsure if it just pulls out without any other parts dropping from within. I would guess that if the o-rings leak then I will see fluid coming for the pressure plate side. (?)
__
Clutch pull is a bit easier for sure. Still get the gripping sound every once in a while but I will blame that on the operator until I can prove otherwise.
pic from today
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v382/Koggs/1%20a%20Oberon.jpg~original)
The Oberon works great. Last time I went out I didn't have that clutch grab noise. Sweet ride with intoxicating sound.
I'll probably change out the positive and negative battery cables for easier starts. Still trying to figure out what works best for cold and warm starts. ie let the "Monster 1100 evo" completely display then try to start or just let the fuel pump finish then push start.