Bought new bike.
Few trips later, bike dead one morning.
Replaced lead w Shorai.
Intemittent charging indication now and then,
sometimes f half an hour.
Bike dead again.
Charged old lead f 20 hours w small charger,
it shows 13,6 V.
Bike starts, batt shows 14.6 at idle, no change when revved.
I guess my reg/reg is shot?
Are both batteries shot too?
Get that Shorai juiced up or it could get hurt. Try not to let it have more than 14.8ish volts, so use a LiFePo4 charger.
Yeah that reg could have a bad connection too or be on the way out. Test it all.
Howie might wander by..:)
Quote from: greenmonster on July 02, 2017, 05:04:10 PM
Bought new bike.
Few trips later, bike dead one morning.
Replaced lead w Shorai.
Intemittent charging indication now and then,
sometimes f half an hour.
Bike dead again.
Charged old lead f 20 hours w small charger,
it shows 13,6 V.
Bike starts, batt shows 14.6 at idle, no change when revved.
I guess my reg/reg is shot?
Are both batteries shot too?
New...
or new to you?
Until all is sorted out use the lead acid battery. Also, keep in mind your battery voltage reading only indicates state of charge, not battery health. That requires a load test.
Your big problem is intermittent because when the bike is charging well all will test good. I would suggest hooking up a voltmeter, maybe something like http://www.dx.com/p/v27d-3-digit-led-display-panel-digital-voltmeter-black-dc-3-0-30v-198830 and when your charging rate falls off get to work with your DVOM. Also, what is this new bike?
New to me, bought used w 32k km's on odo.
Lead batt showing 14.6V at all times and not changing w revs,
isn 't that indicating reg/rec is bad?
How does alternator malfunctioning show?
14.6 is .1 volt high and high for idle and I agree, does indicate a regulator operating out of spec, but shouldn't cause your problem. You might want to check the accuracy of your meter. Open cell battery voltage 13.6 is high too, even for an AGM. Open cell voltage should be read after the surface charge is removed for example, headlight on for a few seconds. IMO, overcharge by .1volt would not cause immediate battery failure, but could shorten life. I suspect, from your description, you have an intermittent problem which is why I recommended riding with a meter. Then when it happens you can pinpoint it to a regulator, stator or connection.
Ok, thanks.
Will start w checking connections.
Confused over bike going from fully working
to completely dead ( batt down to like 5V) just a few days later w only
Immobilizer draining, could ECU b culprit?
Is this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsJUuLu1cw0
a valid load test?
A good test, but not as accurate as a proper load test, which is, with a carbon pile apply a load of 3X the amp hour rating or 1/2 the cold crank rating for 15 seconds. Most of us, including me are stuck with what was done in the video. For your bike (I'm assuming it is the 1100) I would use 10.5 volts. An alternative to a load test is impedance https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-BAT-500-Battery-Impedance-Tester/dp/B003ZBA2XQ, not as accurate, but does not stress the battery and can be done on a close to flat battery.
My thoughts, based on what you are saying, is your charging system is failing intermittently. Could be regulator, stator or wiring. Ummm even a corroded battery connection or bad ground. That leaves you with a choice of two diagnostic techniquics, shotgun or pinpoint. Shotgun is replace eveything that can cause the problem. Could get costly on a Duc. Pinpoint is go to work when the problem happens. Strange thing is, if it is the 1100 you should be getting a code. Electrex has a good trouble shooting guide http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide
Ok, thx.
Corroded batt conn it isn't.
Changed reg/rec, Vm shows 14.1 now, idle and revving.
Friend measured his 1098, shows same values.
Testride now and report back.
Over 2 hours drive, no yellow light.
So far, so good. :)
It was the reg/rec.
Shorai toasted.
If ever a Li/Fe again, I`d get the type that doesn`t allow fully discharging.