Does anyone know if there is a difference between a 2005 and 2006 Monster 620 wire harness?
Thanks
Check the part numbers (ducati.com -> 'menu' -> dealers and services)
If they are the same = ok
If they are not.... find out why and if it's important (easier said than done)
Thanks Stopintime, yeah I checked em,
04 and 05 have the same part #, 06 is 1 number higher at the end
04,05 510.1.179.4A Electric wiring
06 510.1.179.5A Electric wiring
Looking at other part numbers they both use the same ecu but have different part numbers for the dash panels
05 406.1.026.2C Complete instrument panel
06 406.1.033.5C Complete instrument panel
maybe a different pin configuration at the dash
When I got my new S2R800 dash, the dealer ordered '06 instead of '07. I had it adjusted to show correct mileage, by SOS Diagnostics, and THEN discovered the '06/'07 mix up. Too late. The difference on my bike is that the maintenance signal comes on after 10,000 km instead of the 12,000 which is correct on the '07. The '06 doesn't show travelled distance since the low fuel light comes on. Not the end of the world and an example of how insignificant any changes can be. The 620 changes could be more important.
The same ECU is a good sign, but you need to study the wiring diagrams very carefully to see if you can spot the differences. Maybe check the Owner's Manual first to check for dash funcionality changes first? (like those small things that I have)
Isn't it possible to get a correct harness?
Ducati Omaha say this about the two harnesses:
https://www.ducatiomaha.com/products/51011794a
Quote from: stopintime on December 16, 2017, 03:45:17 PM
Ducati Omaha say this about the two harnesses:
https://www.ducatiomaha.com/products/51011794a
[clap] [clap] [clap]
Excellent find! [clap] Thank you!!
Here is some background on my bike. Long post here.
Forgive me if I'm a bit all over the place in writing all of this down.
I've got an 05 620 with 85K miles on it.
Problems with the bike.
1.Over the years I've had to keep raising the fuel trim on my DP ecu to tune it correctly at idle (it's got Termis and open airbox). I've had it as high as 32 but after replacing the TPS and air pressure sensor this year it's been around 22-25. I've also replaced the CPS, engines(had a spare from a great deal I got a long time ago) and other parts.
2. Sometimes this bike feels great. Smooth, good power without effort. Sometimes some of the power goes away and the bike gets real vibey and jerky on/off throttle. BIGGEST PROBLEM
3. When tuning (with TechnoResearch software and a Gunston Gastester) with valves properly adjusted exactly the same, TB synced and both are bleeds screwed out the same amount idling at 1050-1100 rpms the reading is almost always the same. Vertical at 3.5% and the horizontal 8.5%. Every once in a while the CO's would read the same. Years ago they were always really close together.
FYI no fault codes, at least not with VDSTS software. It might be different with Ducati Mathesis at the dealership. I may take it there just to see what there machine says.
To me what it's come down to is either there's problems in the harness, the dash or the ecu.
I went the cheapest route 1st. I said screw it, took out my wire harness and started to dig in. I found a bit of white corrosion? on a section of wires that go to both coils and the vertical injector, right in the problem area. There are 4 wires that go into one(don't remember what the 4th goes to). I tried to desolder that section but that wasn't happening so I cut it out. All 4 wires were clean, nice and bright under the insulation. I cut off some of the insulation on the single wire and I find black strands. Not good. I cut it back to clean wire and soldered everything back together.
I get it back in the bike and give it a tune, lo and behold I had lower the trim to -1 the to get the right CO. Cylinder CO's were still far apart though.
So after the tune I'm hoping I have fixed power problem.
Nope, I go for a ride and it's OK but the power problem still exists. I'm thinking I might have more problems in the harness given what I found.
Anyway I bought a harness from an 06 M620 with really low miles for a good deal.
After hooking everything up and turning the key, the fuel pump primes and the gauges sweep but no neutral light, oil pressure sensor light or temp(only dashes). I hit the starter but I got nothing.
I replaced all fuses inc the 40A, switched out the relays, I compared pins to the engine side of the ecu and all were the same. I'll compare the body connector side of the ecu and pins to the dash to my old harness tomorrow. If those are OK I'll put in my old harness to see if there is a problem with the new harness.
Anyway, that's where I'm at. Sorry for the long post guys but I thought I'd put it out there to see if anyone has had similar problems and/or solutions.
Any help is appreciated, please feel free to ask questions. [thumbsup]
I really wish I knew my electric stuff, but I don't. Hopefully the wizards will chime in. One thing I often hear is to check ground connections.... one from ECU to ECU bolt and the engine to frame bolt(?)
Quote from: stopintime on December 17, 2017, 01:28:37 AM
One thing I often hear is to check ground connections.... one from ECU to ECU bolt and the engine to frame bolt(?)
As soon as I read this my heart sank. I knew it was the ground wire to the engine that I forgot. I placed the wire where it needed to go but didn't bolt it in. I moved on to other connections.
It's 3am, I just went out to the garage to bolt it to the frame and turn the key. What do you know, after the gauge sweep the neutral light, the oil light and temp on the dash said LO.
I'll start it up in the morning and go from there.
Thanks stopintime, I can't tell you how relieved I am. I'll sleep a lot better tonight.
... and what do you know - I can now add 'have given helpful electrical advice' to my list [laugh]
Quote from: stopintime on December 17, 2017, 03:50:47 AM
... and what do you know - I can now add 'have given helpful electrical advice' to my list [laugh]
[thumbsup] You don't need to be an expert to give good advice, just a good idea.
Quote from: stopintime on December 17, 2017, 03:50:47 AM
... and what do you know - I can now add 'have given helpful quantum electromagnetic theoretical electrical advice' to my list [laugh]
FIFY. Furthermore...you accomplished this remotely. From I think the North Pole?
Quote from: Langanobob on December 17, 2017, 07:45:03 AM
FIFY. Furthermore...you accomplished this remotely. From I think the North Pole?
Close enough ;D
Hey all, just wanted to reply with why my bike sometimes ran well and sometimes ran poorly.
It definitely improved after putting on the new harness due to burnt wires in the old one but there was still something wrong. After riding through the winter I decided to dive into this again. I have a buddy with an S4 with basically the same gauges as my bike. I figured out how to disable my immobilizer and get his dash to work on my bike. I went out for a ride and that was it. It fixed the problems I've been chasing. The bike ran just like it used to, like it should.
10 years ago I had to get the dash replaced under warranty cause the bike was dying on me. I figured this might be the problem this time but couldn't test it and I'm not paying Ducati $135 and hour to do so.
I have a line on another dash but wondering how does the dash affect how the bike runs? Out of curiosity I've been looking for dash schematics online but cant find any. Didn't think I would but thought I might get lucky.
Anyway I just thought I'd let you guys know the outcome. Maybe it'll help someone else.
Have you tried riding without the dash? I don't know how or if the dash affects how the bike runs - didn't think it did...
The condition of the dash should not matter if the immobilizer is turned off.
Ride with no dash and see if problems are still present.
The bike starts with no problems without the immobilizer. I'm gonna head out this afternoon with the dash in a backpack to see how it runs with and without it.
It should do just about everything except record mileage, run the blinkers, and maybe one or two other tasks without the dash with immobilizer disabled. The last time I looked at the actual pin diagram was a few years ago though.
The bike ran really well with no dash. Good smooth throttle response and felt consistent throughout the RPM's. It hasn't felt like this in years. I rode 40 miles and stopped to put the dash back on. On the way back the throttle response was good, a little smoother at higher RPM's but rougher at lower RPM's. Which is what I've been experiencing for a long time but with much shittier overall throttle response with no oomph.
I took the gauges apart last night, didn't see any apparent damage due to previous meetings with the ground.
Background info: I had a crash 3-4 years ago going about 2 MPH. Was pulling to the side of the road and lost front wheel traction on something that came off the surrounding trees. After getting the bike back up I tried to start it but would only crank. It took a while but it finally started. This might be when this specific problem started.
I've looked at the wiring diagram and don't really have a answer as to why the bike runs differently with the dash on. It shouldn't.
I'll email SOS Diagnostics, maybe they have dealt with this before. Maybe I'll look into aftermarket gauges too.
Update: I bought an ecu on ebay from a s2r1K for $100, looks like it had been reflashed with a DP map. It had a sticker on it that wasn't OEM. Anyway, I read and saved that file on my pc just in case, you never know, and flashed in my DP 620 file. I checked the TPS, synced the TB, set the idle and set the CO at 4.5%. The bike runs great, no more shitty throttle response, really smooth again. It sounds a lot better too. It felt like I was dragging an anchor when on the throttle before.
I don't know what was wrong with it but my original ecu had problems.
Thanks again for the input guys.
Great outcome! ðŸ'ðŸ»
Good to here the ECU fixed your issue. So your late 620 had the 5am ECU? All info online says the 620 only had the 5.9 ECU. My 04 had a 5am with a different hardware number than the s2r bikes. I want to reflash mine but have been affraid due to reports of damaging the ECU if the different hardware numbers are used. What software did you use for your reflash? Where did you find a DP 620 file I keep turning up empty handed in my searches.
Quote from: caperix on June 03, 2018, 05:01:06 AM
Good to here the ECU fixed your issue. So your late 620 had the 5am ECU? All info online says the 620 only had the 5.9 ECU. My 04 had a 5am with a different hardware number than the s2r bikes. I want to reflash mine but have been affraid due to reports of damaging the ECU if the different hardware numbers are used. What software did you use for your reflash? Where did you find a DP 620 file I keep turning up empty handed in my searches.
Interesting thread on GuzziDiag/TunerPro - http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=67714.0
LONG WINDED ANSWER BELOW :)
Yup 5am HW610 on my bike. I've seen the 59M info too. I bought the bike with 2500 miles on it about 10 years ago, the previous owner had installed the Termignoni package (pipes, open airbox and ecu). I don't know what the orig ecu model was. I used the GuzziDiag writer to flash in the file with cables I bought on amazon.
Here is the GuzziDiag site:
http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/
You can use IAW Diag V0.47 to check parameters, do testing and change the fuel trim like the VDSTS software. The reader I used is IAW5xReader V0.28 (5AM, 59M) and the writer is IAW5xWriter V0.24 (5AM, 59M).
Here are the cables I got:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZKKMLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053NRLHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Some people had problems with the 3 pin connector from Amazon - one guy fried his ecu, said the +/- wires were incorrectly labled. I checked mine with a multimeter. At the bottom of the GuzziDiag page it has a diagram of that connector. Thats what I used for testing
These guys guarantee their cables
http://lonelec.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=57_20&product_id=51
Yes you need to be sure the file you are writing is correct for your ecu model and hardware number.
I was researching TunerPro, software that allows you to change anything (I was just looking to disable the immobilizer) in the ecu as long as you have the correct files to use it. FYI dangerous to change things if you don't know what you're changing. I only messed with the immobilizer.
I found out that it uses a BIN file(that's what's in our ecu's) and an XDF file (these are custom made) (that's the framework that the BIN file is attached to so we can view the information correctly) to work.
TunerPro http://www.tunerpro.net/
I found XDF filese here http://motoxdf.wikia.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Tuning_XDF_Wiki but they were in text file form and I couldn't figure out how to save them as an actual XDF file.
In looking for the XDF file I needed I came across someone on another forum. I texted him and we went with email from there. I got the XDF file I needed as well as a fresh DP 620 BIN file. I'll keep him anonymous cause I don't think he'd appreciate me giving out his info.
I disabled the immobilizer and wrote it into my ecu. It took about 15 mins. Make sure you have your screen saver turned off as I was told that if the writing is interrupted you could screw up your ecu.