Ducati Monster Forum

New DU333 rear shock arrives tomorrow.  Still snowing here, so won’t be able to ride.  Plus out of the country for a few weeks.  I’ll get installed Saturday, if I can get the bike from the storage unit to the garage.....

Any advice on setting it up?

2005 S4R.  Just rebuilt the forks with new seals and oil.  All fork settings are at factory settings. 

Derek V

Did you order it sprung for your weight?

I wasn’t given any spring options.

Derek V

You might want to ask Speeddog.

How much do you weigh wearing your gear?

165lbs + gear (~17lbs), 182 lbs.

Derek V

All I can say, is if the DU333 is sprung like the DU044 then it's a little light for your weight.

Ask Speeddog. He has the numbers.

That said, if you're happy with the stock front then you might be really happy with the Ohlins as delivered.

Thank you.  I’m hoping that it works better than the stock Showa.  It isn’t like I am good enough to get 100% out of the stock suspension anyway.

Derek V

Got it installed.  Definitely changed the handling.  Quicker.  Only had time for a very short ride.

For ride height, should I adjust the spring preload first or the adjustable link?  I would think the link first because changing the preload will also change the handling, yes?

Derek V

Everything you do to a suspension will change the handling.

Set the preload/sag first. That's a basic setting, and IMO doesn't need to be fiddled with once set. Ride height is more preference.

If you get the rear too high, not only will the handling be extremely quick, but you'll discover any weakness in the front suspension as it will be loaded much more heavily.

A spring ~9.5-10 would be a good place to start.

Your spring should be marked, something like 1091-31/95 XYZ4.
What is your spring?

Unless you know *for sure* that your link adjustment is free to move, assume it's seized.
Either leave it alone, or remove it and fix it.

OEM fork springs for the S4R were pretty good for your weight.

Both ends will likely be fine on relatively smooth pavement.
They'll be harsh on sharp-edged bumps.
If you want to improve compliance, both front and rear will need to be revalved.

Lots of folks are good enough beer drinkers (whatever that is) to appreciate good beer.
Same goes for suspension.

Seized link on a new shock?

No, the OEM pushrod.
AFAIK, all of them were assembled dry at the factory.

Ahhh. I forget about that on the S*R bikes.

+1  [bang]

You should have seen my mechanics' knuckles when he adjusted mine. And his face when I asked him to turn it back to stock adjustment  [evil]

Thank you everyone for the help.

-Set pre load first.
-The spring is labeled; 01092-31/95- L1910
-My link adjustment connecting rod is an aftermarket part, it is free to adjust.  I have adjusted since installing it. I am planning to lengthen it 2 flats to take it up to where I can just flat foot the bike.
-Sounds like I’ll be loosening the front and rear settings. I either take it on local, flat and straight runs or up into the mountains and canyons of Colorado that it seems like it was made for. 

Derek V

Let me just say a little bit about the “rear ride height” and the adjuster you have there. (Whether it is stock or aftermarket item, it doesn’t matter. The logic applies the same way.)

The primary purpose of the adjuster is to alter the swingarm droop angle.
It is NOT the seat height adjuster.

So, what’s going to happen as you increase or decrease the swingarm droop angle?
 


Example 1 ) reducing the  swingarm droop angle (This is what you say you are going to try.)

1)If you go too far, your swingarm would not have “enough” droop angle, what it means is

 “not enough anti-squat effect = too much weight transfer”

2)as a result, front forks tend to top out, thus, front end feels unstable, flighty at exiting corner (especially on rough pavement)

3)In general, the bike tends to run wide under power when coming out the corner (understeer)


Example 2)increasing the swingarm droop angle (the opposite direction of what you are going to do.)

1)too steep swingarm droop angle = too much anti-squat effect = not enough weight transfer

2)as a result, poor traction under power.

3)more importantly, it makes the bike more prone to sideway slide (rear wheel stepping outside. Combined with too much rebound damping in the rear shock, it is almost guaranteed to cause lowside.)

It is important to have *right* ride height(swingarm droop angle) as Monster's cornering is more "rear wheel (rear tire traction) dependent.  

So, I strongly caution about touching this adjuster.
I am not questioning your intelligence, or riding experience / skill.
Just trying to point out, that adjuster link is the last place you want to play with, as you can actually create the set up(especially with the fully adjustable rear shock you have now) that would cause lowside easily, or the the set up that would cause the understeer.

The last thing you want (for the street bike) is the suspension set up that induce lowside easily.
The (close) second worst is the suspension set up that causes the bike to run wide.





Whether you can put your feet down completely flat or only able to tip toe, it is a matter of

1) seat height vs rider's inseam length
2) rear shock spring rate and / or preload vs rider's weight
3) seat shape vs rider's leg / body shape


You didn’t state your inseam, your height and body type.
So, let my use myself as an example.

 I’m only 5’5”, 125 lb.. with street clothes on. (So, I’m about 135 lb.. with full gear, I guess.)
I am at the extreme end of the spectrum, and nothing out of the box would work for my weight.
So, I have Ohlins DU333 (sprung and valved for my weight) and front end worked (with Ohlins valve kit, using stock springs).

Take a look at the picture below.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2IyRPZxhax_Pxwg6xSfZUl9HG9M6gLLE_Rdc9C5jACfQCJtFhw7-RYhKePfbZYDsqUe8lQvLAgU-k3pzlZ4WPlcqFGeyDDASxUJl9RrgZzv66h3s3Grtd-X_h-EQyyCXKZmPNpwQgA=w2400)

This is where my butt is, when riding at slow speed, like going through the city traffic, etc.
If you look closely, you can see my left foot heel is about an inch off the ground.

Consider that
1)I’m wearing Dickie’s and Marrel, NOT my riding gear
2)I have my right foot on the peg.

When I’m actually riding, I wear Aerostich R-3 and Daytona Security Evo3 boots. I can never put the foot down flat.
Let alone putting both feet down flat. It just ain’t gonna happen with the body I have.

Then, look at this photo.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DiIlLc7GvrHVNzXS9KeM8O7-8rQLs5_7qgDQNeBfEXIY76Z-MymUDYxXv2EQCaVfVAnUwMgTkuLcu0C_fFcO3LHnNASyOKLUCm812_w6r_4fTbI7-jo5EFaEKowZlbhXwBjZLQFH-w=w2400)


This is where my butt is, when riding through the corners on the back road, or I”m on the freeway.
Notice the butt is moved backward?

I am sitting on even higher spot now, but I would never put down my foot with this riding position. I always move forward on the seat as I slow down before coming to the complete stop.

So, just wanted to warn you.
If you play wrong, you can make your S4R as an  absolute dog to go round the corners.
(The bike that is tank slapper prone, unstable front end under power, doesn’t change direction from mid-corner to exit, etc.)

OK, good information.  Clearly I don’t know enough to start making adjustments.  Got a friend that used to race professionally that is going to help me set up the suspension.

Derek V

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

You can also make the bike better.

The swing arm angle the factory chose is somewhat of a compromise.

Exactly.


Well, it's great that you have a friend who can guide  you to the right direction.
It is just sad to see the bike with all the "right components" but "set up wrongly".

2005 S4R is a really fun bike to ride / to work on.