Ducati Monster Forum

(https://i.imgur.com/Sjy467g.jpg)
GIF: https://i.imgur.com/rEWHNRh.mp4
Cold start with the dry clutch conversion completed, I hesitate to say completed because I haven't taken it out for a shakedown ride yet. Once I have some flogging and heat cycles in her I'll be more confident. I used a KBike brand slipper clutch kit, not their conversion kit. On the 800cc wetclutch engines the drive shaft is shorter so I had a nut made by a friend machinist and milled the clutch drum down 6mm so I could get good engagement on the threaded driveshaft. There are a few minor variables I played with to get enough engagement on the big clutch nut and driveshaft.
1. Changed the shim behind the primary from 5mm to 4mm. Using 2x 2mm shims (McMaster-Carr is awesome)
2. Due to above I pushed the large clutch seal on the primary deeper so the clutch basket wouldn't rub.

There are two main concerns with my method of dry clutch conversion:
1. Choked the oil regulator on the main drive shaft where the push-rod resides
2. I used the wet clutch pushrod end as it had a longer collar and will hoepfully keep the needle bearing I inserted into the driveshaft seated for support.
3. Due to #2, I sunk and O ring into the shaft to help center the rod and keep the needle bearings from sliding more then necessary.
4. Longer pushrod is needed, but I used the end of another as a shim, much like some of the clutch slaves come with. THis gave me the proper length and utilized the wet clutch pushrod cap.

Some pics:

(https://i.imgur.com/wAVgpKm.jpg)
Operating table

(https://i.imgur.com/pb4H8fe.jpg)
Disassembly

(https://i.imgur.com/TWR5xg9.jpg)
Discovered wet clutch springs were shattered

[(https://i.imgur.com/QMG4GD9.jpg)
Primary gears from 916/749

(https://i.imgur.com/tvD6VYe.jpg)
Didn't actually need to replace the oil pump (ProTIP, if you pull an oil pump refill through the oil pressure switch hole)

(https://i.imgur.com/cn6g9hk.jpg)
Black eye and busted face from the primary gear puller launching unexpectedly 6" off the bike!

(https://i.imgur.com/FKCp0DD.jpg)
removed primaries, notice I left the original wet clutch shim on the shaft, i want maximum oil splash on the bearings, another reason i used smaller OD shims.

(https://i.imgur.com/QYEgxFV.jpg)
2x 2mm shims to space the primaryinbord by 1mm

(https://i.imgur.com/hHcdgbE.jpg)
engagement moving the drive gear inboard 1mm

(https://i.imgur.com/HSxmKhc.jpg)
Mock up, you can see only about 2mm of threads, no gonna work

(https://i.imgur.com/V3DsZge.jpg)
Making the nut, don't ask for a price, my friend made it on barter.

(https://i.imgur.com/ZeFEk8v.jpg)
Clutch machine work, 6mm bore on the drum and 6mm extention  nut

(https://i.imgur.com/lxM8npD.jpg)
dry fit

(https://i.imgur.com/VmISybC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/roD27yf.jpg)
Powder coated old school clutch cover

(https://i.imgur.com/3I2MeqO.jpg)
second dry fit

(https://i.imgur.com/iNCXMoG.jpg)
All buttoned up, pay no attention to the extra long bolts, I have cut them down since

If I think of anything else I'll add it to this thread.

Nice!

Still rocking that 800 from way back when I see.

hahaha, yea way back in 2006

Great work [thumbsup]

Cool  8)

Where did the old truth go? The one that told us that the engine has to be split to do this? I kind of remember it had something to do with oil transport... block off/reroute?

Well to be honest, to do a dry clutch conversion using only stock parts you do need to split the cases. This is only due to the length of the drive shaft. Now the second part of your question was oil transport and reroute or blocking. I found that on my 2006 803cc 2v, that there is an oil screw I which you can stop flow threw the drive shaft. This galley used to supply oil to the wet clutch so I just blocked it (read Install sheets for 848). I understand that the smaller CC engines were not equipped with the oil regulator screw and therefore no way to stop the flow of oil to the wet clutch.
Hope that makes sense

Short shake down run and the clutch was slipping on heavy throttle. I never checked the clutch stack height, so instead of checking the height, I installed one more plate on the pressureplate side and it seems to have done the trick. So far no oil seeping or leaks on the push rod or splines. I’m gonna flog it Saturday and report back.

This is amazing!

Again, great job [thumbsup] looking forward to your ride report.

OK now I want my S2R800 back so I can do a dry clutch lol

Ok guys got her out for a pretty decent shake down, about 40miles and all seems right and dry as planned haha. However, my downshifts are not landing like they used to and I’ve missed downshifts completely. When I miss a down shift I noticed I had to pull the clutch to its fullest travel and then I could shift down. This is only happening when I’m not at ideal engine load. As expected I can load the engine positive or negative to slip the gear in without pulling in the clutch lever, so thi problem I’m having is due to pushrod length. I made a new pushrod extension to hopefully solve this issue.

this is freaking awesome!!!  [beer]

FWIW...I don't do clutchless downshifts with the slipper in my SBK. :-\

I probably shouldn't have said 'clutchless', because I don't either. I should have said 'I slightly pull the clutch lever and the downshift slides in very smooth'. Thanks for pointing that out.
On a side note I just rode an S1000RR at the track, and it had clutchless shift, up and down, fulltime...silky smooth.

Nice.

Not exactly true.  The regulator screw is available on all 2002&up small case engines.  (Please verify before buying anything people. I’ve slept and drank recently!)

I know because my ‘99 750 didn’t have anything like that when I did my small case conversion.

Thanks for the info stew!

I have an ‘07 695 engine that has it & I’ve seen it on 620’s.

Update:
Been putting some miles on the clutch conversion and looks like it’s doing everything without drama. Took it apart for inspection and added a dab of grease to the pushrod end at the pressure plate bearing. In two weeks I’ll be flogging it at the dragon.

keep us updated !!!

Off topic question, what kind of tank grip pads are those?

I think it’s snake skin, I bought a blank and cut  out the shapes.

Hello,

I`m looking for a new clutch Drum and i see that the one you are using looks like to be the same as my broken one.
Can you plase tell me where you bought that?

K-Bike clutch


https://www.kbike.it/mobile/lang_EN/prodotti.php?back=1&catid=17

Nice work, and a great write up - but was there a problem with the wet clutch, or did you just want to hear the rattle, er, I mean music?
I remember that the APTC clutches were reviewed as being an aid for new or inexperienced riders, and I'm not a new rider - actually I'm an old rider -  but I really like the wet clutches on both my M695 and my Hyper 796.  Effortless pull - one finger on the lever - and since they're a type of slipper clutch, no worries down shifting.  Am I missing something besides the Ducati clutch noise, er, sound ?  Mine have never slipped...

Soooooo, I certainly wanted a dry clutch, but the wet clutch had a couple springs broken on the slipper side and I’m a gluten for punishment. I have definitely locked my rear up a few times on that slipper clutch, but maybe that was after the springs broke. Saying that, I am fond of the wet slipper clutch, and a dry slipper clutch I installed works well.

Update:
Need a new clutch pushrod. (Throw-out?)

What’s the longest pushrod? There are different lengths depending on engine.

Slave cylinder was all the way out, I must have miscalculated how long the pushrod needed to be. Due to this I was having trouble disengaging the clutch at stops, eventually it was stalling.
Cheers

I'll measure some. Please remind me ;D

Thanks!
Looks like I need a 335mm

I found a push rod for a dry clutch model with the later slave cylinder. It was for a big bore/large case 900 or 1000. It was 335mm in length. I'm not sure if that's correct for your needs.

Nice job!
As everything looks and sounds correct, I am wondering about two things:

• Did you have any temperature issues, i.e. see higher temperatures than the normal (wet clutch)?
• Is there any other info that should be considered regarding the oil route? I was wondering if oiling inside the engine is behaving as specified by the factory (pressure, routing etc.)

No temperature change, if anything I’d expect the wet clutch to report higher oil temps.

As for oiling, it seems fine, I only blocked the galley that feeds the wet clutch.
One thing I found is the O-ring supplied in the KBike kit that is a long spacer to align on the basket properly needs to be thicker. I am getting a little weeping from the splined area of the driveshaft. 

 [thumbsup]