Ducati Monster Forum

Thought I would start a new thread...  It's been a very strange year...  I normally build something over winter, but this year I have been busy on my last build all spring and summer, and that is finished and at the back of the garage ready for spring.

So I have started a rebuild on a 1998 Monster 900, a bike I have always wanted to own.  I like the looks, and simplicity of them, and they handle great!  this will be a straight restoration and I will be keeping it looking the same save for it being red and probably gold frame and wheels.  I started the stripdown yeasterday...

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/ducati-monster-900-restoration-1.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/nov-12-1-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/nov-12-2-copy.jpg)

 Same as my first Monster.

[popcorn]

Beejesus that rear fender/license plate holder is HUGE!!!!

I have nothing useful to add.

Mark

If you’re going to paint it, be sure to put the tank ON the frame before trying to place the ‘DUCATI MONSTER’ decal.  They’re tricky to get horizontal otherwise.). The top of the fuel cap is horizontal for reference but still, I always had my painter pause his process so we could install and get it right.

Cylinder heads marked W or V2?

which is preferable and why?

big valve little valve.

Just to be clear....
The V2 heads have larger valves.
The W heads have smaller valves and cams similar to the M750.

Edit. Had to enlarge the pic to see the blue damping adjusters and darker fork lowers. Looks like a 96-97 model with Marzocchi forks introduced sometime in 96 which may have seen the intro of W heads. It's a line ball.

I remember looking at a bike to buy at a shop and even taking the cam cap off to check the cam code while on the phone to Bikeboy. The W heads did indeed have 750 cams.

thanks, that's good advice

Oh, they are V2 heads  ;D  I didn't know about that...

The stripdown continues… so far just one slight hitch… a broken bolt in the swinging arm… soon drilled and tapped out though...  I bought a set of cobalt drills last year, they are brilliant for this sort of thing.  wish I had bought them years ago!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/strip-down-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/tap-in-swinging-arm-copy.jpg)

(https://flic.kr/p/2k6pysz)

That bike stand built flush on the floor is awesome!  [thumbsup]

its actually a car host...  but i have modified it so each platform works independently...  its a great bit of kit!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/49745264588_bd57651434_o-copy.jpg)

Tried to remove the cush rubbers today as I am going to have the wheels powder coated...  the rubbers were good, so I didn't want to destroy them.  You can't knock them out as the drift just bounces off the rubber, and there is no way to get to the outer sleeve...  So I made this puller, that has a split threaded cotter.  its a bit fiddly, but they came out a treat, and I can re use them now


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/cush-drive.jpg)

Just preparing the frame and parts to take to the powder coaters... On the grab handle there were two small dents that I just know that if I left them they would bug me forever, so I TIG brazed them up and filed them down. there is something really satisfying about TIG brazing!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/dent-in-frame.jpg)

Looks like the engine has never been worked on, apart from someone has removed the alternator cover and put it back on with what could best be described as glue! normally they come off with a tap, but in this case I had to resort to a puller…

Question to you guys... the engine looks to be very good...  zero bore wear...  Is there anything I should be replacing while I am in there?  did they have weak head studs at 1998?

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/alternator-cover-puller.jpg)

Bright shiny studs-early bad ones, black-good.

Paper seal was originally used on a cover, when they
discontinued them bond was used.

Engine: Any sign of oil leak behind belt double wheel?
I’d check starter sprag and what it grips on. Do observe
shims behind when you reassemble flywheel!
Clutch basket and pack usually worn. Slave leaking?
Did oil warning light work? Easily replaced.
If  neutral light don’t work, replace cable, nothing wrong w engine.
Valve clearances ok? If not, worn cams?
Carbs, often needle jets are worn, replace.

Nothing major happends w these engines, pretty bullet proof,
only the dreaded crank alu screw backing out after many miles.
Can be checked w barrels off. Alu shavings in oil is a sign of this happening.
Do check  http://www.bikeboy.org/888part4.html

Thanks for that...  I didn't know about the plug coming loose....   been and checked it and although it was not loose, it came undone VERY easily !

My only fear on using three bond was the crank and gearbox shimming...

Black studs are the later version, good studs.

The stock carbs and stock compression will be underwhelming, but they plod along nicely. The carb heating kit is essential in winter, as is a cooler cover. FCR39s will wake the motor up nicely with the benefit of no carb freezing and no icing of the long manifolds. The CV carbs even hold back my 750, they can be modified however.

Compression increases will bring you back to Ignitech.

Sorry, that mean it has started to back out = time to split engine....
The plug should be Loctited and tapped w a mallet to prevent movement.

the engine is all apart, and I am pleased with its condition...  no bore wear, and everything look good.  the main reason to take it apart is to bead blast the cases...  which of course means a complete strip.  I am glad I did it anyway as people have pointed out the crank plugs come loose which damages the cases.  While this one was not loose, it was not tight either can came out with a gentle twist of the screw driver...  disaster waiting to happen!  its locktited in place now...

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/crank-plug-copy.jpg)


I hate bashing bearings out,and where possible try to make a puller of some sort… in the case of the swinging arm bearings it’s easy, just a stepped bush (it does destroy the inner seal..) and out they come. the step needs to clear the circlip though… some of the engine bearings are more difficult as you can’t get to the back… for this I made an expandable stepped puller, that expands into the bearing as a bolt rides up an internal taper. with this they come out easy…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/bwaring-removal-3-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/bearing-removal-2-copy.jpg)

To get the bearings out I also heat the cases… I would like to use the oven as its a more even heat… but I can’t for two reasons.. the first is the cases are too big… and secondly she gets upset, particularly as its a new oven! So over the halogen heater it is… keeping an eye on the temperature… I also like to mark EVERYTHING, so it can go back where it came from, and in the same position. I am not keen on centre pops, instead I use a little diamond burr in the dremel… this will even mark bearings and means you can number stuff as well, and it does not cause stress raisers…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/bearing-removal-1-copy.jpg)

Of course parting the cases means the primary gear has to come off… and they are VERY tight… you can forget anything but a really robust puller. here is one I mad a few years ago. with this it came off easily.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2018/01/puller-11.jpg)

The frame and wheels have gone to the powder coaters...

Fast working man!
Only original mufflers w the bike?

too fast...  I have to slow down a bit...  or I wont have anything to do over winter!  [laugh]

Yes, the bike came with standard silencers...  there are a couple of minor scuffs on them but I am debating making some like I made for the last build...  not decided yet...  I will of course keep the originals...

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/ssdf-6.png)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/ssdf-5.jpg)

Has anyone ever run an early monster without the vacuum fuel pump?  Do you lose much tank capacity?

here are the carbs, they are in remarkably good condition! I had some genuine new floats and needles so I used those in the build. I did bead blast the outsides, taking care to use silicone bungs in all the holes… they came out a treat!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/carbs-1-copy.jpg)

Pretty sure you will lean out part way through a tank of gas without a pump.
After multiple rebuilds of my vacuum pump, I replaced it with an electric one.
An Airtex E8016S can do 30gph at 4.5psi.  Great for FCR's.  Not sure if it would work with stock carbs.  Assuming someone here would know better than me on what the stock carb needs. 
 

Besides not being able to use the whole tank as the tank empties you could run lean when cornering.  An electric pump will solve that.

(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/9a/af/1c/9aaf1cbd2b66954e225c7d1956056712.jpg)

Your homemade will look fine, these are SilMoto.
Combined w a Dynojet stage 2 (you want the lighter
vacuum throttle springs) and open airbox
(only front between snorkels, thats enough and
not too noisy), this will liven bike up.

Thanks!  still debating on the silencers...  plenty of time...

while the engine and frame are away I have turned my attention to overhauling the front forks… they were not leaking but I thought I would treat them to some new seals and dust covers…. looks like someone has recently changed just one side by the state of the oil...

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/50641964062_f1219741b7_o-1.jpg)

the engine cases are back from the vapour blasters… what a superb job! attention to detail is what its all about and they came back prefect… I will definitly use this guy again… the finish is as good as I have ever seen… https://spvapourblasting.co.uk/ I know these cases are painted from original but the pain always flakes off, so I have decided to leave them bear, and use ACF 50 on them to keep them looking nice… this will probably be a low miles, fair weather bike for me…

the engine build begins… I got the cases nice and hot and pressed the bearings in, and then checked the crank and gearbox shafts end float as I wont be using a gasket as Ducati have now discontinued them and use Threebond in place … I had already ordered a few shims by measuring the old gasket (14 thou) and taking that off the shims that are in there… when the shims come in a few days I will build it properly…


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/cases-5.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/cases-4-copy.jpg)

todays job has been cleaning out the oilways in the barrels after being vapour blasted...  To do this properly and get every last bead of media out I removed and replaced the core plugs...  they are cheap to buy.  There was a surprising amount of crud behind them... Made a couple of stepped punches so I could drift them in nice and square. 

Checked the bores for wear, there simply isn't any!  Ground the valves in with some fine paste (how old is that tin of grinding paste 😅) and checked I had a continuous seal with a sharpie pen.  Gave the guides a quick clean with the burnishing hone which just removes carbon, 

Finally, a good wash in petrol the tray and a check in the bottom for any blasting media.  My mate who builds automatic gearboxes gave me the tip on the stainless steel trays... you really can see any debris in the bottom!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/head-and-barrel-colarge.jpg)

Behind belts drive wheel, after fitting seal, give the seating
a punch to prevent seal from rotating and leaking.
Shims behind flywheel often slids outta place, be thorough.
And do not forget Oring under cyl barrels...

thank you!  good advice there!  keep it coming!

Waiting for the engine spares at the moment, so filled some time doing some bead blasting on bits and pieces… one of the best bits of kit I have is a blast cabinet… It used to live outside at the back of the garage because I could never seal it from escaping media as obviously the air tries to inflate the cabinet… with machines about abrasive dust is a no no… Then I hit on the idea of a centrifugal type filter, which offers no resistance to the air going through it. I made the filter out of an Ikea plastic box and some sink drain pipe, it vents outside…. the principle is as the air is made to twist and turn, the partials of dust and media centrifuge out and drop to the bottom of the chambers… so the first chamber gets the most, the second less and so on. there is hardly anything on the drive and nothing in the workshop. its difficult to get this level of restoration to a part without it… Bead also gives that nice sheen to alloy parts and they don’t pick up dirty finger prints. its very good at resisting oxidation as well, particularly with a coat of ACF-50… here is the fuel tap.

I used to make a BIG mistake with bead blasting… I could never get a really nice finish except with brand new media… I moaned at the supplier once and he asked me what pressure I blasted at… high as I can I told him.. there is your problem then! you are shattering the glass beads and turning them into sharp dust, hence you get a dull surface! So I went home, filled my cabinet with new bead and got my wife to turn up the pressure as I cleaned a part… soon as it went shiny, that was the best pressure!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/50665840162_409233c074_o.jpg)

here is the difference old bead high pressure, new bead low pressure!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2017/12/bead-blast-comparrison.jpg)

here is a before and after on some weber carbs I rebuilt...

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/dcoe-carb-before.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/dcoe-carb-after.jpg)

here is how the filter works

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2019/12/blast-cabinet-filter.jpg)

Ditch the vacuum tap for a manual one. The vacuum taps fail by either leaking and flooding down the manifold vac hose or jamming shut starving the motor. Some Hondas had the same issue. Ethanol also eats the diaphragm.

That's a good call...  is there a specific replacement you can link to that people use?

http://www.pingelonline.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=65EF6DD65E7E4DC8863437874E1A73C8
www.partsgiant.com/p345538-wps-fuel-valve-shut-off-with-5-16-line-knob-type?r=mg-25&r=c-23515
http://www.pingelonline.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=88413BA6DDE54C479613CB38822BC715
https://www.motionpro.com/product/12-0036

I have no idea why Motion Pro states not for over 300cc.  Worked fine on my bike.

Oh, what is that Weber from?

The fuel hoses between the tank/filter, the filter/OE vacuum valve & the vacuum valve/pump aren’t the correct ID as they used to be.

Seems someone @ Ducati failed to check that prior to ordering them in this last batch.  I redid the fuel system on a ‘96 M900 last year and had to use at least three fuel nipples and fuel hoses in order to step down the hose ID so it would properly crimp onto the barbs.  Total PITA.

You’ve been warned. Good luck

https://www.motionpro.com/product/12-0036

That's the one, they work fine. I made a little aluminum lever for mine as that knob is a bit of a joke if you're wearing gloves.

I've been using Briggs and Stratton taps, but not all are rated for ethanol. E fuels are a minority option here. The 93-95 Monster taps are great taps and you could make a nice bracket.

Its from a Lotus engine I was rebuilding...  Years ago I used to build Twincam engines, and Crossflow race engines...

i had Weber carbs on quite a few of my own cars as well!  I like Weber carbs!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/dscf0017.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/w4.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/engine-4.jpg)

Love those engine pics.
Use to autocross a dodge omni GLH.  Dual DCOE40's, biggest cam I could find, and a header.  Fun drive but what a piece of junk.  A guy knocked on my door one day wanting to buy the thing.  Told him the car was free but the carbs are $1k.  He took the car, I kept the carbs.  Still have them if anyone is interested.

As for your M900 fuel set up...suggest placing an electric fuel pump as close to the tank as possible, followed by that motionpro shut off.  Where the fuel vapor canister use to live is a good place to start (under the seat).  I put a homemade heat shield between the pump and the vertical header to help keep things cool.

Or renew diaphragm in fuel tap.
No risk of fuelfilled engine, only works w running engine...
Watch out for kinks in short hoses, risk for starvation.

Mine failed in the open position. 

Mine did too.  One of the first things I replaced on the Monster.

I did rebuild the fuel pump a few times.  The new diaphragm would last a few years.  Went electric when I got tired of draining fuel out of the crankcase.

50 years ago I was an apprentice to the best mechanic I have ever known…Gerry Lampit. He is 89 now and I still visit him… he is still sharp as a razor … He taught me that the hammer was the last resort… that’s always stayed with me. So when I needed to change the swinging arm bearings his words rang in my head

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/swinging-arm-bearing.jpg)

Parts have arrived from Moto Rapido. What a pleasure it is to deal with Craig and Luke, they are SO helpful and knowledgeable! after years of suffering the ignorant local dealer, these guys are the best!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/parts-copy-1.jpg)

The engine rebuild has started… the cases are together, crank and gearbox shafts shimmed, and I spent a couple of hours making a flywheel holding tool. it worked rather well. Don’t ask me why the hell I welded the bar right across it, had to cut it to get the socket on! senior moment!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/side-engine-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/clutch-tool-copy.jpg)

when building these engines do you guys use any sealant on the base gasket?

Thin layer of Three Bond or equivalent. 

Thanks, I will do that...

the rebuild of the heads is going well… some of the clearances are out though, not surprising as I gave the valves a bit of a grind in and replaced the half rings. I have a little spreadsheet that I put the values in, which calculates everything from there, and also mirrors the measurements in MM rather than the thous I prefer to work in. Old school I know!

Been doing the plating on and off, its time consuming, but I put parts in the bucket, set the timer so I don’t forget, and the magic happens… just a few parts to go…

frame and wheels are back from the powder coater, and its another superb job….

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/heads-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/vaalve-clearances-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/plating-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/0diy-plating-3.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/powder-coating-copy.jpg)

If you prefer to work with imperial measurements we have a calculator here on the forum that you can download...

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/configurators/valveshimcalculator.xls

Enable editing, and put in your own data.

As howie said, 3Bond.

Paper gasket under the cam cap, no paper gaskets ANYWHERE else.
OEM style rubber-coated metal gaskets are fantastic, install clean and dry.
3Bond or Orings only.

thanks guys...

one of the things that has been niggling me is the engine oil pipes and oil cooler lines are badly corroded on the ends… replacements, even aftermarket are a fortune… So I decided to try and plate them… they actually came out rather well!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/plating-tank.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/50691797383_5ae7e23748_o.jpg)

Some bolts I just tighten… but critical components I always use a torque wrench… in the past I have used a long series a spanner and calculated the pull I need on a spring balance… but for some reason I could not get the spanner on I have used in the past and its part of an expensive set, so I didn’t want to modify it by grinding… , so had to make a tool… I knew that old spanner and socket would come in one day!

One tip I picked up years ago when I used to build Crossflow race engines was always mark the head nuts/bolts after the first stage torque.  I would paint an arrow on them with tippex...  then move on to the second stage torque, and then the final stage.  then I would check all the arrows were facing the same direction, and if any weren't, I would give them an extra tweak until they did.  the rational for this is that it takes much of the varying nut/bolt/washer friction out of the equation and you get an even clamping force.

Of course that's exactly what you do in effect on modern engines, but now in a more refined way with an angle gauge...  on a BMW engine I recently worked on the bolts were torqued to 40 NM, then 90 degrees, then another 90...  I still put arrows on them! the reason for that is its all to easy to get confused as they need to be puled down in sequence, and there are 20 bolts! its all too easy to forget where you are... and its not like a torque wrench where you give it a click to check!  All too easy to give a bolt 90, 90 and another 90, at which point it pings!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/cylinder-head-tool-copy.jpg)

When people ask me why Ducati bikes are expensive to maintain… I say try doing the valve clearances and adjusting them to the correct specification… its a fiddly job on the bench, let alone in the frame!  and this is just the 2V!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/heads-4.jpg)

more or less finished the engine build, and also added some of the plated parts to the carbs, they have come up really well..

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/carbs-1.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/engine-copy.jpg)

I'd say the plating and coatings are better than new. OEM wasn't the most durable. That looks clean.

I'd say you are correct.

it has come out rather well...  but as i did more it actually got worse, to the point where I called the company for advice...  he told me to do a "plate out" with the solution for 24 hours and it should be back to normal...  I have had the kit 3 years and done a lot of plating.  I will give that a try and see how it goes, I have the odd bit left to do...  I may buy an anodising kit from them to see how that goes...

Did a bit of painting and polishing today… painted and lacquered the clutch cover, and rear spring, and put a coat of lacquer on the cam belt covers which I had decided to carbon effect dip… not everyone’s cup of tea I know, but I like the look… The silencers came up really well! there were a few marks on them that would have niggled me so I decided to polish them.

as an aside, while the spray gun had some lacquer in, I finished off some cheese boards I have been making as Christmas presents for friends... its got me a few brownie points with the wife which I desperately needed  [laugh] [laugh] the fruit and spices are encapsulated in clear casing resin.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/polishing-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/chopping-boards-copy.jpg)

Smooth move on both counts. ;D

Started the rebuild… first job was to put the frame on the engine, easy job, I held it, my wife popped the bolts in! I then fitted the headstock bearings, which I have replaced as there were small sighs of pitting, and they are cheap. I pulled them in rather than use a hammer, which also means you can give them a good tighten and bed them in nice and hard against the register. Its starting to come together… Was also playing around with the image of the engine…

anyone know what those forks are and how much oil I should put in each leg?

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/50716400947_c5ed40a295_o-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/head-stock-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/50720213611_0717096a72_o-copy.jpg)

More pics necessary, they look like adjustable Showas buuuuut... they do not seem to have the boss/adjustment on the lowers so TBD

Could the compression adjusters be up in side above the axle, or are you thinking they have a fake top cap?

The forks look like 96-97 Marzocchis. No compression adjusters down near the axel and just blue knobs up top? Then Marzocchis. The "interim" model 900 carby forks between non adjustable Showas of 93-95 and adjustable Showas of 98+. Can't remember if both blue adjusters do rebound or if one fork does compression. Speeddog might remember. I may have a spec chart somewhere.

Here are the forks...

my wife will often say I am definitely on the spectrum  :lol:  :lol:  today I fitted the side stand and noticed there was more play than I liked...  so I made a new bush, and bronze thrust washer as I knew it would niggle me if I didn't!

(https://bunnyhopweb.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/50721678798_6d3facd40f_c.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/50723736042_1ce1ee0937_o-copy.jpg)

Yep, that's them.

Nice work on the sidestand.

Those are rare, no idea if they're good or not.

Its funny how to me progress seems slow, but when you come to put it all together you realise that all the little jobs you have been doing over the months are now paying off as it becomes an assembly job! One thing I have done in the last few days is to check the loom over… its in great condition apart from one area… It looks like someone has fitted an alarm at some point…, and someone has subsequently removed it! they didn’t do a bad repair, but I hate the tape over bare wires, and I wanted to check the integrity of the joints, so I pulled the soldered wires apart and re-soldered them, and covered the join with shrink wrap. To finish it off nicely I took the terminals out of the blocks with my terminal removal tool. this is a fantastic little set of tools, and very cheap to buy.. I have lost count of the times I have used them over the years! that meant I could use some braided expandable sheathing which most cars seem to use these days. it means it can go over the terminals and then fit tight on the wires. this is finished off with some hear shrink, and if you use the glue lined stuff it makes a good repair.

probably my last update this side of the holiday...  Merry Christmas!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/wireing-copy-small.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/engine-in-frame-3-small.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/engine-in-frame-1-small.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/engine-in-frame-4-small.jpg)

Looks great. Merry Christmas.

Ha ha - we know you better than you know yourself  ;D  [cheeky] Six days without a word?  [popcorn]

Forks are Marzocchi, original on my -97.
Rebound on leg, comp in the other. Not so good.
Have the adj Showas now, better w Öhlins springs,
but adjustability, not so much.
They are wrong made w almost nonworking needles.
Torbjörn (Monster HPD) can tell more.

thanks Greenmonster  [thumbsup]

back after the break...   I did relent and have a few hours in the workshop [laugh]   next the hydraulics … I stripped everything down and cleaned the callipers and master cylinder up. the callipers came up well, but the anodizing on the master cylinders were poor… so I bead blasted them and have decided to leave them silver… All the seals were perfect, so I have reused these. I cleaned the callipers up in petrol with some very fine scotchbrite, being very gentle, they came up a treat.

looked at the switchgear and although its in great condition, the plastic sleeving was tatty… so I used some of the braided stuff, and some glue lined shrink wrap to finish it off…  the braided stuff expands a lot, so no need to remove the terminals off the wire which is a bonus.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/hydralics-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/50750513308_79f484eae3_o-copy.jpg)

starting to go back together, I am pleased with the way the exhaust and silencers polished up… Polishing always hurts my wrists these days… must be getting old 😟

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/wheels-2-copy.jpg)

Although very shiney, silencers too bulky,
your  fabbed conical will look better IMHO.

And, a bite late since you’ve painted spring,
2 tips for driveability:
1. Stiffer rear spring, original very soft.
2. Raise wishbone 10mm at swing.
These mods will give bike a MUCH more planted feel.

thanks,  I may change the silencers...  we will see...

Time to start up soon… I am always aware that a rebuilt engine needs oil at first start-up, and while I always fill the filter before I screw it on, the oil cooler and pipes are empty, as are the oil ways, and the oil pump. I have therefore always used this method of giving the engine the best start in life I can and inject some oil into the system via the oil pressure switch port.

I used to do it on many of the race engines I have built in the past and it was always satisfying to take the oil filler cap off and see oil seeping out the rocker shafts or cam bearings. Either way I always turn it over until the oil warning light goes out… which unless you prime the oilways can be a worrying amount of time!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/01/oil-fill-copy.jpg)

well it started first time!  ;D I screwed in my oil pressure gauge and it went up straight away… sounded nice! I like to start builds on a dummy tank if I can…. I made that tank over 40 years ago, its started a few engines! its still got an original laverda tap on it!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/01/oil-presure-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/01/dummy-tank-copy.jpg)

 [thumbsup]

been out of action for almost 2 weeks...  strained my left hand, taking off a lid off a jar of all things, so thought it better to rest it... getting there now...  sigh of getting older I guess... :'(

Started preparing the tanks and bodywork for painting… I know the tank hinge on the monster is a weak point, and it did show evidence of being strained… I didn't want to paint the tank and find out it soon failed, so I decided to take the bracket off and strengthen the area and TIG weld the bracket back on… I normally have tanks blasted but the guy who does it for me is off with Covid at the moment, so it may be a while before he is back, and I don’t trust anyone else after having some shocking jobs done in the past….

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/01/tank-repair-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/01/50884995047_09d1c77c07_o-copy.jpg)

things didn’t go well with the painting… the seat cowl had rattle can paint on it by the look of it... and it reacted badly to the base coat.  going to have to do it all again.   the other parts came out well though… two coats of clear on the mudguard and fairing, one coat on the tank before I put the decals on and then hit it with one and a half coats…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/01/50887295223_1e1c7db056_o.jpg)

Sorry bout the tank paint.

Its not the hinge, its the tank part closest to saddle were the halves meet
that is prone to leak, weld if you can.
24 hour Araldit also works.

I disagree, Gert.

The hinge plate spot welds crack causing the leak.

Of all the tanks I repaired, none were leaking at the seam. I repaired one older SS tank that was perforated on the flats next to the bottom seam from rust.

Ok.

Seen a few w leaks at seam, like my own.
Weld both and be trouble free.

Painting is all finished and I am happy with the results...  I love the way 2k just comes out with a gloss from the gun...  here is a 25 second video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgFTyJd4fQs



just ordered a new battery...

One of the few fabrication jobs I have done on this bike… I have decided to fit an ignitech ignition… Most people seem to fit them next to a smaller battery, or move the coils over, but I wanted to keep the unit away from the heat of the engine… So I made a bracket to fit it under the LH side panel. it just fits nicely…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/02/ignitech-mounting.jpg)

well apart from a few snagging jobs, and replacing the rear brake hose which is too long… its finished. I need to tweak the ignitech unit and enable one of the output channels to limit the revs to 2500 when the stand is down… When I was 19 a good mate rode away from the pub with the stand down… just up the road he came off, and the accident resulted in him losing an arm… those things stay with you…

I am going to keep this one...  I was reflecting the other day about a day in 1994 when I went to work on My Laverda Jota...it was such a nice day I rode past work and went to Slater Brothers the Laverda importers at Collington.  When I got there I parked next to a red 900 Monster...  It was the first time I had seen one in the flesh...  I was looking around it when Richard Slater came out with the keys and said take it for a spin!  I was really impressed, much lighter and agile than the Jota...  I have always wanted one since then!

Need to find another project now!  if anyone in the UK has anything...  let me know!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/02/side-2-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/02/side-1-copy.jpg)

Well done!

Mark

Verrry nice [thumbsup]

Does bringing a bike TO the UK count?

 8)

Beautiful job. She looks fantastic!

Nice to see. [thumbsup]

Looking good! [thumbsup].
Ignitech disappeard nicely... ;)
You make us all look slow... :-[

Normally the stand retract when you straighten up the bike.

So good it deserves:
shorter rear brake hose (as you noticed)
throttle wires inside forks
clutch hose inside forks and frame


You could rebuild the Multi again:
https://www.northeastcustom.net/bike/ducati-multistrada/

Thanks!  I have done the rear brake pipe, shortened it and used an angled union and it looks much better...  I will change the cable to run inside the forks, not noticed that... I have seen that multi before...  I love it!

been playing around making video's as even with the garge heating on its been just too cold...  here is the result...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH-Qm5iLBho

Damn fine work! Wish you lived in North Carolina. I'd send you my M800 to work on.

Better than new!  Great work [thumbsup]

Thank you very much for entertaining/educating us  [thumbsup] [bow_down]

Beautifullllll

 [drool] [thumbsup]

thanks for the comments guys...

They say a build is never finished… in some ways true! I am still finding little jobs to do like making some frame bungs as none came with the bike…

on another note...  what should I set my rev limiter too on my ignitech unit?

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/02/frame-bungs.jpg)

I've heard 20 ga shotgun shells make good frame plugs.

9000 RPM is standard rev limit.
But you can choose lower, doesn't happen much after 7500 with those inlets and carbs.

Agreed. Bruce Meyers always said after 8K on a big valve 900 all you were doing was making noise.

Thanks guys...  8000 it is...  no point in stressing the old girl!

I was looking at the picture of the bike the other day and thought” those silencers are too long”… and its too quiet… Well I had the original silencers which were quite marked, So I looked at shortening them and removing part of the baffle… not a bad job… by removing the bracket I was able to slide the sleeve down enough to remove the end with a cutting disc. I then cut 100mm off the inner and sleeve (both ends to preserve the stampings) , and welded it all back up again. One thing I learned many years ago when welding exhausts is to clean the carbon off the inside… or it leaches through the weld and the joint cracks! They polish up really well…you just have to remove the original finish with a DA sander with some 120 grit, followed by some 400, then polish…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/02/silencer-h.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/02/silencer-i.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/02/silencer-a.jpg)

How they should have come from the factory.

well my builds have come to an end for this year...  and one bike must go to make way for a new project which I will hopefully  start next winter.  Not sure what it will be yet... time to think, and find something suitable...

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/02/4-bikes-copy.jpg)

Isn't that a no brainer?  [cheeky]

well the one that stays is a no brainer...  If I want to stay married anyway ;D

its the only one with a comfortable pillion seat  [laugh]

Monster easiest to sell, me think.

it probably is...  but i decided to sell the 996 engine bike as I love it least, preferring the air cooled bikes.  I want to ride the Monster and the Multistrada based bike over the summer... but ultimately will keep the monster.

I advertised the 996 bike and it went for the asking price in two days ;D  As I linked the advert to my blog, I have a lot of offers on the monster, and the multistrada...

 [thumbsup]
2V aircooled is the way to go.

can any of you guys tell me where the large and small frame stickers go on a 1998 M900?

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/03/decals.jpg)

Large stickers go onto the side panels.

IIRC, small ones go on the subframe under the seat but it’s been years since I’ve seen them so don’t quote me on that.

Nowhere?  8)

I'll check next time in garage.
If you want pics, PM your mail.

Edit: Sorry, removed mine when l
resprayed frame some 13 years ago...

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YVu-xmAqa8o/USFYEbKhHpI/AAAAAAAAADE/kOGRm9GVnhk/s1600/IMG_0114.JPG)

Smaller decal mid, bigger rear IIRC...

thanks!

Well here it is finished..  fitted a belly pan as I quite like them...  roll on summer!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/03/both-sides-2-copy.jpg)

I have been putting a few miles on the bike, and bedding it in…  it really is a nice bike to ride! 

one of the things I have found difficult is the gear change. the distance between the footrest and the lever is a little too short for me. I checked on line but I couldn’t see any longer alternatives, so I decided to make one. I cut the profile out of some 10mm plate with a jigsaw, and TIG welded the parts together… then I filled it to shape, it took a while but it was strangely satisfying! finally I drilled the holes, and found an Olite bush the right size for the pivot. much better now!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/04/gear-lever-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/04/halfpenny-green-copy.jpg)

the bike is going well!   although i did run out of petrol the other day...  looks like the reserve light does not work!  Worst part was my wife was on the back...  [laugh]

I made a couple if risers yesterday as I wanted the handlebars a bit higher...I could probably bought them for a few pounds but where is the fun in that!  made on my old milling machine which dates from the early 30's...  no CNC here although i have now gone digital!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/04/risers-2.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/04/risers.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/04/miller-2018.jpg)

Well...  My new project arrives on Tuesday...  bought unseen apart from a few poor photos, and its a none runner.

Watch this space!  [popcorn]

My new project has arrived!  It’s a 1999 M900.  It has 9,000 miles on it.  It was delivered by a courier from the North who I will definitely use again, he was brilliant! https://srcoupland.com/ (https://srcoupland.com/)

I bought the bike sight unseen, save for a few pictures.  It’s a none runner at the moment so who knows, but I bought it on that basis.   I will attempt to start it over the next few days.  When it arrived it was exactly as described, and I was very happy, especially after I sprayed the whole bike with gunk a couple of times and let it soak in for a few hours.  Then a good jet wash and it has come up pretty well!  It spins over OK, and I have checked the compression and that is all good.

Not sure what I will do with this one yet… it’s almost too good as it is for a full restoration, so I will get it running and then make a decision from there.  It also has an interesting registration number that will appeal I guess to someone with say a new Ducati V4 as that is still an L 90 degree configuration!

Once I decide what I am doing, I will probably start a new thread…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/05/side-vew-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/05/under-tank-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/05/number-plate-copy.jpg)

DP tachometer is a nice touch.  Same with the coils.  Looks like a 170/60/17 rear tire.

Very very much original condition except for the misplaced tank logo.  Nice find!

Well there were a few electrical faults...  one was a very poor earth, and someone had transposed the wires on the coils! I often see this...  in trying to find the fault, you introduce another fault, and then go around in circles!


Also, the HT leads were not very firm in the plug caps, relying on the rubber boot to hold it in.  there was evidence of arcing...

 It runs and sounds OK!  the clutch is noisy, and the stack height is low, so I have ordered some plates, and some cam belts as although these look brand new its stood for a long time.

I have cleaned the carbs, but they were already VERY clean like someone had already been in there.  One of the mixture screws was solid, and badly mashed up, but I managed to get it out ok and will order a couple.

New battery on order as well!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCEjPF5Ufdk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCEjPF5Ufdk)

That bike had a second ground cable between the engine case and one of the right foot peg bracket screws to the frame.  Sometimes that nut to the frame gets loose/goes missing.

Interesting...  I took the Blue Monster up the road today...  and I have to say it goes well!  in fact, much much better than the red one, and that has big valve heads on it!

the only difference I can think is the red one has an ignitech on it, the blue one is standard.

Has anyone got an ignitech file for a monster they would be prepared top share?

https://www.bikeboy.org/ducati2vignition.html

If you choose the default map you get the Kokusan ignition.

Your buddies at Fastbikesgear can help too l guess.

nice find! Glad its going now! looks like a city model.

Well the blue Monster didn't last long...  it was too good to restore, and I didn't fancy chopping it about.

I thought long and hard on what I wanted...  and decided I wanted to build a scrambles type bike, and a good basis for that was another multistrada.  So here she is.  2003...  16k miles, and runs sweet as anything!  I will be selling parts off that I know I wont use over the forthcoming weeks, and then pop it to the back of the garage until I start it in earnest in the Autumn.

I don't feel bad about chopping a Multi about, they are all going to die eventually with failed fuel tanks as we move from E5 to E10.  I notice this tank is already an inch longer than it started life!

Watch this space!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/06/ducati-8-1-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/06/ducati-8-2-copy.jpg)

I might be interested in the saddle, do you know what it is, aftermarket, DP or what?

Those ST series panniers will sell over at multistrada.net.
Front fender has the addition of a monster front fender, me think.

Is the top box painted or what?

Well its stripped of all the parts that that I will be selling on...  and I have cut the rear of the frame off so there is no going back now!

As an aside, I used some cutting discs a mate gave me...  its the first time I have had a disc shatter on me...  so glad I had a full grinding mask on me!  They went straight in the bin!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/06/51224482593_fdcdd9a392_o-copy.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/06/51225045839_3c24cc139d_o.jpg)

I have made a start on the Multistrada scrambler...  This is a Monster forum, so I am not sure if you guys want me to star another thread?

I'm not sure, but another thread would make searching easier.

+1, new thread.

It's settled. ;D