Ducati Monster Forum

 By popular demand I thought I would start a new thread on the build of my 2001 Guzzi California.  I have had it a few months but only really started things in earnest last week...  I had been doing some jobs in the background though before I got it on the hoist.

here is how it arrived.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/guzzi-2.jpg)

how it looked naked!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/guzzi-3-copy.jpg)

I bought some FCRs to put on it, and decided I may used some bell mouths..  so I set about making some...

here is a video of how I made them

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brYe3Hnpd1g (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brYe3Hnpd1g)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/01/carbs-copy.jpg)

Very, very cool  [thumbsup]

 [popcorn] [popcorn] [popcorn]

Ignitech here too?

They'll look great hangin' off each cylinder. You gotta love the easy access for tuning. There's something endearing about Guzzis (in an eccentric kind of way).

yes, just ordered  ;D

the owners are a bit eccentric as well... some are quite strange to be honest!

One thing I hated about the bike was the side stand… Just how agricultural is that bracket! I know its a great functional design, but its SO ugly!  so out come the angle grinder and it is no more!  In the loft (or as my wife calls it the spares department!!) i had a side stand off a 1994 Honda CBR 600…  it bolted straight on!  Just need to adjust the angle a little when the ride height has been set.  a job for much later on...


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/side-stand.jpg)

Up on the hoist for the first time… I have temporarily used a build stand that I have used for Ducati’s, but I will have to make a specific one as this one will impede making the exhaust fit on the bike. First job has been to make some inlet manifolds to fit the carbs… I wanted them angled upwards and inwards, and that took some working out to get the compound angle right! it ended up as 68.5 degrees. As the carb diameter is larger than the head inlet, I needed to use a tapered tube… To do this I turned up a tapered mandrel, and after annealing the alloy tube, I pressed it in with the vice, which expanded the tube by the required few mm. I then turned a grove to accept the lip inside the carb mounting blocks.

the next bit was actually quite difficult… I needed to make the hole on the flange a nice fit on the tube, but at an angle. I deliberately cut the 10mm plate quite large so I could get it mounted on the milling machine at the exact angle. I then bored the hole with an indexable boring head. If that milling machine looks old, it is! I did some work on it a few months ago and found a date… 1929!

Next job was to TIG weld the flanges on, drill the holes, and finally cut to shape. here is a video of how I made them

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2EfrVdAiKo&t=18s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2EfrVdAiKo&t=18s)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/51872449199_d662666f29_o.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/51874027176_e31851d70b_o.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/51876878666_b979a843e8_o.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/51877520120_b736838caf_o.jpg)

Top notch as usual.
You gonna do any drivetrain check/service?
Plan to make custom footrests?

just finishing the exhausts,  the footrests will be next  [thumbsup] 

I am going to do a full strip and rebuild of everything as I want to bead blast all the alloy.

Just debating over the wheels...  they are alloy rims, stainless spokes so to polish the rims, I would have to take them apart  I have never built a wheel before (always put them out) but my mate has just bought a jig, so I am going to wait until he tries it  [laugh]  my other option is to have them bead blasted, I think that would look good and save on polishing...  we will see

yesterdays job was to mock up the exhaust... I had ordered some 2" mandrel bends and straight pipe as I wanted that chunky look, and for the pipe to fit straight into the silencer with no reducer. From a performance aspect, the large headers are probably not I deal... but I wont miss a few BHP! I also wanted that angled swept back look (old School!!) The bends are 135, 45 and 30 degrees. It should all polish nicely as its stainless steel. This bike will have more forward mounted foot rests, hence I could kick up the silencers earlier...

I find making exhaust systems quite therapeutic, although sometimes I could do with a third hand. My wife used to help, but since I burned the back of her hand with the hot end of the filler rod, all help has been withdrawn  [laugh]


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/exhaust-4.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/exhaust-3.jpg)

Brad
https://www.bikeboy.org/performance.html
has done some experimenting w exhausts, a crossover seems a good idea.

https://www.wildguzzi.com/forum/  and  https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/
seems pretty ok, but there is a lot of grumpy farts around Guzzi`s... [laugh]

Thanks!

I know what you mean about grumpy...  some of the Guzzi guys seem to be quite strange [roll]  as an example I have sold hundreds of Ducati parts on Ebay, not one complaint... I sold 30 Guzzi parts and had 4 issues!

I was selling the ECU off the guzzi and a guy sent me a string of questions...  [coffee] Then he asked me what it weighed...  So I asked why he wanted to know the weight...  he replied "I think your postage cost is too high!"  [bang]

In the mean time someone hits the buy it now button and it sells... [thumbsup]

Next I get a really shitty message of the first guy to say I shouldn't have sold it as I knew he was interested and he had been looking for one for months as they rarely come up! he said I should have given him first refusal!  [laugh] [laugh]

the exhaust is all TIGed together now...

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/exhaust-6.jpg)

Driveability seems dependent on a good crossover:
https://www.bikeboy.org/sport1100_update.html

well spotted!  [thumbsup] I have thought about this...  I decided to try it without first, but its an easy retro fit if I need to fit one.

Next on the list is the new foot controls… I sat on the bike and decided where I wanted the foot pegs to be. This bike wont have rear-sets, I want to to be comfortable to ride! I then measured how long from the peg the brake and gear lever needed to be and set about designing some controls. It would have been easier to have had them water jet cut, but that’s a 3 hour round trip for me, and usually quite a wait, so I decided to mill them out instead. What has made a BIG difference to me is the acquisition of a band saw… Its great for cutting stuff like this out! I was so lucky to acquire it… my mate was throwing it out!

I made a couple of spigots to mount them on the frame which I will weld on. I have used a couple of Oilite bushes on the holes rather than run the alloy directly on the steel. the first spigot I made I realised I had counter bored it a bit too far and it would have been too weak… a case of measure twice cut once! I then bent them in the vice to get the correct crank angle to clear the exhaust.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/footrests-2.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/footrests-1.jpg)

The finished results, apart from a good polish...  As I am going to use a Ducati rear calliper, I have also used a Ducati Master cylinder, and also used the same leverage ratio for the pedal...  here is a short video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Uw3wcT7-40 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Uw3wcT7-40)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/footrests-4.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/footrests-5.jpg)

Your range of skills and ability to produce such excellent work is starting to annoy the make the beast with two backs out of me  ;D

I can only apologise  ;D

As I am taking off the linked brakes I needed to use a different rear caliper. I toyed around with making the rear caliper floating and using a torque arm… but in the end decided to use a neater, smaller bracket instead. It also meant that I could mount the speed sensor for the speedo as I am using a combined speedo / tacho.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/rear-caliper-copy.jpg)

The tank I am using is off a V7… It was cheap to buy because it had a couple of big dents, which I have managed to get out. To do this I had to cut a couple of holes in the bottom to give access with a 20mm bar with a dome on the end, which I then used to knock most of the dent out, just needing a skim of filler. I then welded some plates on the holes and leak tested them with dye penetrant.

I use this a lot, its great for checking for holes and cracks, they show up immediately. fortunately all was good in this case. I prefer doing it this way to filling it with petrol as if you do have a leak its a pain to clean it out again. I have taken to using the dye penetrant on frames before I have them blasted… its surprising how many have cracks! especially Ducati!

A while ago my mate welded an RGV 250 engine mounting on the alloy frame. When he had welded it, he used some dye penetrant around the joints on the frame to check for cracks… There were quite a few! he welded them up and re-checked. Here is a gearbox I recently welded that still had a leak after someone had already welded it, you could not see it with the naked eye, but its easily visible with the dye…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/tank-weld.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/aaa.jpg)

With the new master cylinder mounted I looked at a way of mounting a reservoir. I could have used one of the small plastic ones, but instead decided to make one. I am pleased with the way it came out! here is a short video of how I made it!  Last update for a while...  I have to go on holiday apparently!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0-kGpvQDjI

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/resevoir-123.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/resevoir-12.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/resevoir-1.jpg)

WOW!

+1

+2. Gosh that's tidy.

Neat! [thumbsup]

Back from holiday where I unfortunaly got a dose of the virus!  :o  Not too bad though, I have had worse colds… But for a few day I have kept out the garage, and did some computer time instead and constructed the wiring diagram… I like to keep it simple, and wire from scratch, so many builds are spoiled by patching up the old loom. I am using an ignitech for the ECU, and its interesting that the the unit uses the cam sensor for one cylinder, and the crank sensor for the other. I like that idea!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/guzzi-1-wireing-diagram.jpg)

I have agonised over the rear light / number plate arrangement…

No matter how I plan it, it just does not look right with the number plate on the back, So I am going for a side mounted plate. that leaves the rear light to consider… the rear of the seat is angled (more later) so I needed an angled plinth to mount the light I am using on… here it is, bar a good polish.

A new addition to the workshop is a bandsaw...  How did I manage without one all these years!  I modified the top and bottom guides so they have bearing supports and it works an absolute treat!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/51962496149_f90c22ef50_o.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/51962211521_cf7579fed6_o.jpg)

One thing I always like on a build is a light throttle… in these days of EFI its easy to forget just how heavy some carb throttles were, always a balance of lightness Vs a throttle spring strong enough to prevent sticking, As I am using flat slides on this build I really wanted to use a pull / pull throttle set up, which would either mean a pair of splitters, or a dual throttle. that way I can retain the light springs. Try as I might I couldn’t find a dual pull / pull one so I have ended up making one! If anyone knows of a company that makes them… DONT TELL ME! here is the story in pictures…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/throttle-18.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/throttle-2.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/throttle-1.jpg)

Show off.

Mark

the wheels are back from the vapour blasters… they have come out FAR better than I expected, and I quite like the finish, so I will be leaving them as they are. just a coat of ACF – 50 should keep them looking good. the spokes are stainless and have also come up well. First time in MANY years I have put my own tyres on! they are tubeless so went on very easily. just got to get them balanced.



(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/wheels-copy.jpg)

seat next… I needed to bend the front to clear the tank bolt… So I made a former to press it into shape. I also made a tool so I could press some dimples where the rivinuts go, to raise the seat a little so the seat doesn’t sit directly on the frame rails…

Things don’t always go to plan… I decided to mount the rear light on the frame, and cover with a piece of alloy… which I did, but then realised that on full bump the tyre would hit the plate! I had designed the rear to cater for full bump, but promptly forgot! I realised I needed to mount the light on the seat base, but I hate wires showing… so I decided to make a conduit out of copper tube so the wires can be hidden under the seat cushion.

The seat is off to the trimmers today. I have not used this guy before… The girl I used for years to trim my seats left the company she worked for… the last guy I used was OK, but no where near her standard. So lets see what this new guy is like… Oh, and here she is in the daylight for the first time in a while…


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/seat-base-3.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/seat-4.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/seat-5.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/side-profile-copy.jpg)

no matter how I tried I couldn’t get the number plate to look right on the rear of the bike… so on this build its going on the side, which kind of fits with the look I want to achieve…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/number-plate-5.jpg)

Amazing work- thanks for sharing ! I remember your M900 re-build.

Its been a while... ;D  I tend to have the summer off from garage projects, holidays, days out, bike rides take over!  However I had a few spare days and thought I would make use of the warm days and paint the tank. It was badly damaged when I bought it, so I cut some holes in the underside and knocked the dents out. it takes an age to get it to shape, in fact as the metal had stretched, so I cut a 1mm slot in it, planished it, which closed the gap, and then welded the slot up! its nicely to shape, just the decals to put on now

Another little job was to redo the speedo… I want to keep this build as clean as I can and wanted a smaller speedo. I decided to use one of the cheap GPS modules which is just 55mm diameter. I made a new housing for it, and will finish the bracket off when I start the assembly. it been in the car for a week on test!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/tank-12.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/tank-1-1.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/speedo-1.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/speedo-2.jpg)

All finished...  I always have my heart in my mouth on that last coat of lacquer over the decals!

I know a lot of people struggle with paintwork, its not that hard if you follow a process, so I have written a guide on my blog if anyone is interested...



(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/tank-34-copy.jpg)

Out in the sunshine for the first time in a while… I am now happy with the look, and it now all needs to come apart for the frame to be tided up and painted silver (matches my other bikes!) I will be doing a mechanical rebuild at the same time.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/orange-12-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/orange-8-copy.jpg)

Friggin awesome work.

WOW!  [bow_down]

Carb work is easier for sure. The heads really look tough and "industrial" with the bike so slimmed down.[thumbsup]

Here is the speedo and warning lights finished, I am pleased with how this has come out, i wanted this to be as clean as I could… as with all electronic components I like to rubber mount them… so I have used some small grommets and spacers. The GPS speedo has a nice little feature which tells you which direction you are traveling in!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/52299060934_fd338fee24_o-copy.jpg)

Autumn arrives… Bike rides become less frequent, and the holiday and days out season slows down, so its back in the garage! the bike is now in the stage where all the fabrication is done and it all needs taking apart and cleaning and painting. Engine removal was quite easy with the removable frame rails and it was all soon apart and the engine and gearbox on the bench. I finished off all the welding on the frame and removed all the unused lugs to get that clean look, and sent it off to the powder coaters.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/frame-and-engine-removal.jpg)

I will be doing a full engine gearbox and drive unit rebuild, mainly to vapour blast the cases. This of course means making a few special tools! First off was an extra long 32mm socket. I cut down a standard one and extended it with some thick wall tube.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/gerabox-tool-3.jpg)

next was a tool to undo the 27mm nut on the gearbox output shaft. you need to hold the shaft as well as turn the but so it needs to accommodate this. I used one of the spare Ducati wheel nut spanners I had laser cut years ago and bored it to shape on my new milling machine. Picture of that to follow!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/gerabox-tool-1.jpg)

next up took some thought… I needed to hold the shaft while I undid the nut. It would have been Ideal to use an old UJ but I didn’t have one… But what I did have was an old drive shaft. Out of this I made a stepped broach in the the lathe and then hardened it. With this I was able to broach a set of splines in a block of 10mm alloy, cut to fit a large spanner. It worked a treat!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/broach.jpg)

finally, I made a tool to remove the castellated nut on the input shaft from an old socket, and a tool to hold the clutch hub from an old clutch plate. I think that may be it as far as special tools go!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/gerabox-tool-2.jpg)

I have been debating replacing my milling machine for a long time… but I have had it for almost 45 years and its like an old friend! over the years it done a lot of work, but its a 1929 machine and has its limitations! When my wife asked me what I wanted for my Birthday it was an easy answer! The old machine has gone to a good home where I know it will be looked after and used…


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/milling-machine.jpg)

I much prefer the look of the older round barrel engines...  so out came the angle grinder!



(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/barrels.jpg)

The old style heads look gorgeous. That Autosol glow.. [drool]

It took a bit more than Autosol to polish this lot below!  I was at it 9 hours solid!

Time to overhall the hydraulics… just waiting for some new bolts to assemble the callipers. everything was in surprisingly good condition, just a strip and rebuild needed. Then onto the job I hate most… Polishing! I have a 2 HP 3000 RPM motor I use for this. Its a long, filthy and somewhat dangerous job. I try to do it all in one day as you get filthy, and its the sort of dirt that won’t wash off with hand soap, so I have to use washing up liquid!

I have also rebuilt the forks and put in new seals and dust covers, and some fresh oil. they are very simple forks, no where near the sophistication of the Ducati ones I normally do!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/guzzi-hydralic.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/guzzi-polishing.jpg)

I have read on a few forums that over the miles the preload on the pinion bearings gets loose, and sure enough it spun Just a little too free. So I removed a thin shim and re-torqued it up after inspecting the bearings which were like new. I couldn’t use a torque wrench so I used a balance on a long spanner and calculated the pull needed for the correct torque.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/pinion.jpg)

I wish I could do a 1/10th what what you're capable of doing.     [clap]   [bow_down]

you are making me blush  [thumbsup]

I am amazed at how little wear there is on the engine and gearbox components. there is no disenable wear on the crank or bores, pretty good for 30k miles! I cleaned out the sludge trap in the crank but it was clean, glad I did it though as the bung was far too lose for comfort! it has a dab of retaining compound on it now. the only wear I have found so far is a roller bearing in the rear drive, and as you can see there is pitting on the inner race. this will be replaced.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/engine-parts-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/crank-bung-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/diff-build-2.jpg)

well the frame is back from the powder coaters, along with the plating of all the smaller parts. Its always a dilemma what colour to go on the plated parts… I can have them silver, but the corrosion protection long term is much less than the yellow passivate, so yellow it is!

The frame has come out superb as usual, but the swinging arm is terrible. I knew it was pitted, but he said when he blasted it, big flakes of rust came off, and although he coated it, he knew it would not be acceptable to me.  The extent of the pitting was so much I decided it was a no go to tig braze the pits.   He did say he could improve it, but I decided to try and find one that’s less corroded. We will see.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/frame-copy.jpg)

pics of the unacceptable swing arm?

I will post some when it comes back, I have sourced another one...  [thumbsup]

While everything is on hold while I wait for the cases to come back ( blaster has Covid and is really poorly...) I agreed to help a friend of a friend who was struggling with two broken studs in a cylinder head, so I though I would share my knowledge on removing them...

removing broken studs is always a problem, especially where someone has had a go first! in this case they had drilled off centre and then broken an easy out in the bottom! in 50 years of doing this stuff I have NEVER seen an easy out remove a broken stud in alloy… My technique for broken stud removal is to first clean the head of the stud with a burr in a Dremel to get it nice and clean. Then use a half nut the same size of the stud, but drill the threads out so again its nice and clean.

Place the nut central on the stud and start off with the TIG on low amps and just puddle the weld on top of the stud.. This permeates the heat down the stud… Build up the weld inside the nut until its flush. I have the electrode sticking out a bit more than normal to get close to the stud top. Once its cooled a little, give it a tap with a small hammer for a bit of shock. then try working it back and forth… its its too tight, or squeals as you try to turn… it stop. Then if its possible drill a hole into the alloy from the side and JUST into the stud. over a couple of hours feed some Plus Gas (wonderful stuff!) in the hole and work the nut back and forth… I have had great success removing studs this way in alloy.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/52434767440_57315a9ed0_o-copy.jpg)

... I continue to be impressed by your endless range of skills  [clap]

Thank you!  My only regret is that I don't have anyone to pass them onto...  Our kids are not interested, and its partly why I document things, and write a blog...

Looks like the guy that does my blasting is still poorly, so  I have turned to working on the next project until I get all the Guzzi cases back...  something I don't normally do as I like to do one project a time...  There are a few things I can get on without getting seriously into it, one of which was to make some tapered inlet manifolds.  This is another 1000DS Ducati build and I am exploring the Idea of using a small supercharger off a VW 1.4 TSFI...  we will see once I get properly into it, but for now here is how I made the manifolds.   

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAaLRtB32lg

Thanks for sharing. :)

Be great to see what a blown 1000DS can do. :D

All the parts are back from the blasters, so its cleaning time… nothing scraps an engine like leaving glass media in there so its important to get it all out. I have a process I use for this. First I wash it all off in petrol… paying attention to all nooks and crannies, holes and oilways with a long thin bottle brush. then I jet wash it off, and blow it all off, including all holes. (you need goggles for this!) then its into a stainless steel tray and another wash off with petrol, and then I use carb cleaner with a long spout into all the holes and oil ways… if there is ANY single bit of media in the tray, its back to jet washing and blowing off again. Its easy to see any media in the stainless tray. Here is the gearbox in the stages of being built up.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/gearbox-1-copy.jpg)

Onto building the engine… of note is the tool to compress the clutch, which is actually the centre splines off the gearbox, and a threaded bar into the crankshaft. this makes the plates perfectly aligned and makes fitting the gearbox easy.

next the cylinder heads… it took three attempts on these to get the bead out of one oilway! note the new tin of grinding paste, the old one has run out of the fine end, but it was 50 years old, I can remember my Dad buying it me as a teenager! Good to see the company is still going and using the same tin! Just to be sure I checked the bores for wear… there is none at all! Got to love Nikasil bores!

here is the engine and gearbox all back together… I decided to add some accurate timing marks on the flywheel for each cylinder so I can use a strobe and see what’s happening in reality. used my new digital DTI gauge… not sure I like it… watching that needle go round is far more satisfying!

and finally its all back together and ready to go into the frame


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/engine-1-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/cylinder-heads-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/timing-marks-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/guzzi-finished-engine-2-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/guzzi-finished-engine-copy.jpg)

Here is the finished final drive with a new bearing and seals.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/final-drive-copy.jpg)

Such gnarly looking motors. Could run a Doodlebug.

The engine is now back in the frame, a nice and easy job with the removeable bottom frame rails…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/in-frame-copy.jpg)

 [popcorn]

I didn't want to use the frame as a breather as it can rot them out, and rust partials can drop down so I am told...  so I decided to make a new breather the vent the crank case and also the heads.  Here is is...  will it work?  Who knows, we will see!!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/breather-copy.jpg)

Round barrel work 👍👍👍👍👍😎

Apparently on one of the Guzzi Facebook pages I am a "redneck vandal"  [laugh] [laugh] [laugh]

You have earned the right to adjust the factory's mistakes - no worries [thumbsup]

Factory Fan Boys without mileage or tools don't impress me much. I understand them, but that's it.

Two jobs today...  first was to make a paddock stand.  I hate the universal ones as they are very difficult to get a bike on one on your own..., and often not that secure.  this one positively locks onto the wheel spindle, and when its on the lift I can clamp it to the top so its nice and secure.





The second was to make some bushes out of bronze to take the play put of the clutch lever as the hole had worn oval.  I drilled it out and made some over size top hat bushes.  Finally, here it is on its wheels!





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoiBIyf7MYY



(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/clutch-lever-copy.jpg)



(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/side-on-wheels-3.jpg)

I pondered for a long time on the throttle arrangement for this bike… I wanted to keep the pull to open, pull to close for a couple of reasons… First, its safer… manufactures didn’t go to this arrangement for no reason as bikes evolved. Second, it means you can have much lighter return springs, which in turn males the throttle much lighter, particularly if you are going for a quick action. . A light fast action action throttle feels like you have 20 BHP more!

I couldn’t find a 4 cable throttle anywhere, so I ended up making one from scratch…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/throttle-1-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/throttle-2-copy.jpg)

I needed to make some brackets out of alloy tube, but of you squash the ends in the vice it looks crap… so I made this little die that profiles the ends round which also make them stronger.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/stays.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/stays-1.jpg)

I made a speedo housing earlier in the build, but I was not happy with the result, so I tried again...  this one is better...

turning the dome took some doing! I have rubber mounted it as I always feel electronics need it…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVhAJ0GDwlE

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/speedo-4.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/speedo-6.jpg)

I wanted to add some custom detail onto the bike, in particular on the valve covers... So I tried the technique of etching alloy...  have to say it worked rather well!  Oh, and although those indicators are small, they are amazingly bright!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJBqAuzCvzI

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/rear-end.jpg)

just keeps getting better [bow_down]

Even better would be some color besides orange.

its not going to happen  [laugh] [laugh] already have the paint for the next Ducati build!

Onto for me what is the most enjoyable part of a build...  the wiring.  I have a process for this I stick to.  First I draw out the wiring diagram in Microsoft Visio, and colour code the wires. Then I order the wire in, which is quite cheap and any connectors I need.  So often the standard of the electrics is what make a bike trouble free in the future.  I then build the loom actually on the bike, circuit by circuit, wire by wire, which I hold temporarily in place with some Velcro cable ties.  When its all in place I use that braided sheathing and close the ends with heat shrink tubing.  it make a neat job.  Rather than connect the main battery leads up, I use a fly lead with a 10 amp fuse just in case I make a mistake.  I crimp, and if needed solder every joint.  I have rubber mounted the coils and put them on an alloy heat sink.  I also like to make my own HT leads out of solid copper lead, so I can get them to fit perfectly...

I have also used up the last of the Tygon fuel tube I had in stock...  Its 8mm ID and I am unable to source any more without buying a large quantity, which is really annoying.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/wire-2.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/wire-1.jpg)

That's unfortunate.

Here is the finished wiring… and the final diagram of which I am always happy to share a full size version. I like to use the braided sheathing rather than the hard PVC stuff of old. I see that many cars and bikes now use it. Its a bit fiddly but if you touch the end on the soldering iron after you cut it, it stops it fraying. Another nice advantage is if you need to pull one or two wires out, you can do by just parting the strands.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/wire-32.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/guzzi-1-wireing-diagram-for-website.jpg)

the footrests/and levers are now finished… I pondered how to do the brake light switch and then came upon this neat hydraulic one which bolts onto the union…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/footrest-662.jpg)

here it is finished...  just waiting on a small part to get it running, which is very frustrating!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/52531906410_001ea97dd6_o-copy-1.jpg)

She's beautiful and your work is amazing. What part do you still need?

some carb needles and a couple of "O" rings...  Royal Mail strike is not helping... 

Beautiful!

Needles and O rings?  Gotta be frustrating.

 [thumbsup]  Looking good!

How come you've skipped link between exhaust pipes? Most Guzzis I've seen seems to have/need them.
Looks better f sure but just wondering.

its a cleaner look...  But, I designed with the option of fitting one... there is clearance for the pipe but I thought I would see how it goes first.  the pipes are huge in comparison to standard  [thumbsup]

It really is...  a combination of Royal Mail and a supplier here in the UK that I will NEVER use again due to the attitude on the phone, and the general way they operate.  The good news is I have found a supplier in the Netherlands for carb bits and he is very easy to deal with [thumbsup]

Don't be shy.  Name names... 

Well lets just say that if you look at their google reviews I am not the only person who feels their customer service is below par!

So its start-up time…  I had a good spark, but I wasn’t sure if it was on the right cylinder as I hadn’t made a note on the coils… so it was a 50% chance it would start…  It did!  It quickly settled to a nice tick over, but I had to shut it down as I am missing the “0” rings off the sensors and they leaked oil.  I have been waiting a week for them, bloody Royal Mail strikes!

With any fresh engine build I have a routine I stick to that has served me well over the years…  first thing I do is remove the oil switch and pump oil into the engine.  I use a plastic pump up bottle for this.  This primes all the oilways, fills the filter, fills the oil pump, and oozes out of all the bearings.  I prefer this to engine building paste, which I am not a fan of…  I do use a smear of it on the cams and followers though…

The other thing I do is screw in a pressure gauge.  I was pleased to see that it immediately shot up, which is always a relief.  This has saved me a couple of times in the past…  Once when the pressure relief valve in a new oil pump was stuck, and the gauge went off the scale…  the other time was my fault when I put an oil pickup pipe joint on wrong, and the joint itself covered the pipe hole…  started it up and initial pressure then nothing… that gauge is a lifesaver!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/startup-copy.jpg)

well how annoying is that  [bang] [bang]  I noticed the section of one pipe was going blue...  checked it and its magnetic!  looks like the supplier mixed in a piece of Mild Steel in with the stainless!  Oh well, new piece is on its way

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/blue-pipe.jpg)

well this build comes almost to an end, I am sure there will be some snagging to do, but that can be done in Spring when I can ride it! I will post a video of it running as soon as we have a nice day. Here is is with the last couple of builds I have kept as I liked how these ride!

Its time to start the next Build… I have another Multistrada at the back of the garage which I will wheel out soon and make a start on that… this has some nice parts on it and should make a great bike, not sure on the style of this one yet, I guess it will evolve over the coming months.. Have to say I have really enjoyed the Guzzi build, a refreshing change to Ducati’s as the next one will be Ducati number 10 build!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/three-bikes-copy.jpg)

(https://i.postimg.cc/tJ1mB0n5/WDW-2010-069.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)

The front under the headlight didn’t look right, so I made a plate and etched a Guzzi badge on it, I am still amazed how well the etching works!

Here is the video of it running, followed by some photos that tell the story of its build… Its -5 this afternoon on the drive, so It wont be up the road for a while!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfrFwwEUpfk

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/guzzi-badge.jpg)

 [clap]

BRAVO [clap] [clap] [clap]

You, sir are an artist. I love the minimalist build.

It sounds fantastic!

Mark

I thought I would update...  I have been putting a fair few miles on the Guzzi...  It runs really well and pulls like a train!  the ride is a little hard and I may well change the rear shocks though...

However, not everything on a build like this goes to plan… I have been doing a fair few long and fast runs and after one very spirited run I noticed oil coming out the breather… looks like the one I made didn’t work. I set about a completer re-design, and made one out of alloy sheet. Here is the result. I have given it a good thrashing and all is now well!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/04/breather-2.jpg)

Here is the finished Guzzi.

I did spend some time tweaking the ignition, but I have to say that it was pretty close with the advance curve it came with it from Ignitech.  It took a couple of days to sort the jetting out on the carbs, but what’s nice is they are easy to get at to change jets, and these carbs came with the slow air screws as opposed to slow air jets which makes life easier.  I have a quiet road where I go, rather than annoy the neighbours where I can ride up and down, do plug chops and adjustments.   

To help others if they do simmilar, The jetting I ended up with is as follows:-

#155 main jet,  #50 pilot jet,  ELS needle (4th groove from the top)  I started with an ELT needle but had a slight fluff at 1/8 throttle so changed to ELS and it cured it.

here's to a warm dry summer!



(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/05/web-final-3.jpg)



(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/05/web-final-1.jpg)



(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/05/web-final-2.jpg)

I was really pleased that our local bike meet photographer captured this shot!



(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/08/53113326000_6120d15743_c.jpg)

 [thumbsup]

Mark

 [Dolph] [Dolph] [Dolph]

Nice [thumbsup]

Really nice bike!

I have been doing quite a few miles before I put the bike away for the winter and getting used to it. One thing that annoyed me was the feel of the front brake… It was quite soft and somehow just lacked the feel I have with the Ducati’s. I looked on Ebay and thought I would give one of these radial master cylinders a go. They are quite neat in that the adjuster alters the pivot point of the lever so you can adjust the lever ratio! much better feel now! So much so I have bought a similar but better designed one to try on the Ducati!


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/11/53191375490_30103bac8a_c.jpg)

Engagement point, yes. Also reach adjustment? Brand?