I like to do frame up builds, right now I'm on the fence with the pros/cons of what I might do next. I've tended towards the S2R 800/ 1000 however, I'd like to hear from those who had them and what problems and good things they had or even alternatives like the S4R or an earlier M900.
On 900`s: Second gen 2001-02 "ST" frame was better than 1st gen who had weaker frame and not so good steering angle,
although beeing a "888"frame.
I've only done a few (3) carby Monsters, a Shovelhead custom, two T140 Bonnevilles and a Honda NC30. Gotta say the wiring and custom options are easier with carbed bikes. Currently doing a frame up restoration of an M900, but it's a restoration to stock spec so easier in many respects. There are some on the forum with extensive experience in these projects and you may flush them out. What are your plans, stock, custom, performance?
Quote from: koko64 on April 30, 2026, 05:00:37 AMI've only done a few (3) carby Monsters, a Shovelhead custom, two T140 Bonnevilles and a Honda NC30. Gotta say the wiring and custom options are easier with carbed bikes. Currently doing a frame up restoration of an M900, but it's a restoration to stock spec so easier in many respects. There are some on the forum with extensive experience in these projects and you may flush them out. What are your plans, stock, custom, performance?
I follow the same lines with the "back to stock spec" route as well. I have a 900 frame with good paperwork but no engine and the rest of the parts look spartan, I really enjoy the stock Monsters but I might incorporate a plate relocation kit or tail tidy as a small deviation. On my streetfighter I did have to leave off the charcoal cannister though I didn't likle to as I wanted "correct to stock" but it ran like it did with it installed.
'00-02 M900's were fuel injected with better cams.
The ecu's for '00-01 bikes are hard to find, but lack the immobilizer stuff.
'00-01 M900's were 888 frames.
'00 had 10mm engine mounting bolts.
'01 had 12mm engine mounting bolts.
'02 M900 was ST frame with immobilizer and 5.9 ecu.
'01 M900S was a very nice ride...
IIRC, the '01 M900S had the floating rear brake caliper on it too.
Well update, I went and got a deal on a 2006 S2R frame/good papers and an 800 engine. The 900 parts avail seem either in real bad condition or non existent at this time. I obtained a few more pieces while I was temporarily insane.
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After being pressure washed and degreased to assess
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More assessing...
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I got a few parts that were priced right.
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The Engine Core has some rough spots that need replaced, its all coming apart anyhow.
[beer]
[thumbsup] But small pics.
Quote from: greenmonster on May 12, 2026, 05:54:55 AM[thumbsup] But small pics.
I feel somewhat insecure now..I was hoping to save some memory by resizing down from 4k to 1080 but I can try to get them a little larger.
I got parts in so I felt safe enough to start ripping into the core, I ran a compression check and found 160 on either cylinder with a few shots of oil in the holes, Valve checks were:
Vertical Horizontal
Intake-
opener- .15mm .13mm
closer- .07mm .05mm
Exhaust-
Opener- .14mm .15mm
Closer- .06mm .05mm
Closers look a bit tight so I am looking at some shims, the oil smelled kinda nasty in the engine like it had not been maintained very well. I'm going deeper but its 0300 am and I need sleep before work tomorrow so I pulled at least one head and cylinder before going unconscious for 6-8 hours.
Some Engine pictures:
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The closer numbers are pretty good but may change when you clean up the valves and valve seats. They may feel different after a clean up so clean up the mating faces first.
Going to go for new rings, higher comp or bigger bore or just clean it up and put it back together?
I try and get the openers around 0.1 and closers .02-.05. Sometimes you're caught between shims and don't want to skim one down so you can then go for the generous factory spec.
Quote from: koko64 on May 29, 2026, 11:01:50 PMThe closer numbers are pretty good but may change when you clean up the valves and valve seats. They may feel different after a clean up so clean up the mating faces first.
Going to go for new rings, higher comp or bigger bore or just clean it up and put it back together?
I try and get the openers around 0.1 and closers .02-.05. Sometimes you're caught between shims and don't want to skim one down so you can then go for the generous factory spec.
I'm going for a good, stock runner. I'll be checking the crank and trans shaft backlash and make my decision to split the case on that. I've got a new set of clutch disks and the case bearings -not including the rod bearings, don't know the crank color and rod letters. The cross hatch looks really nice on the cyl walls and not much on the piston skirts at all(maybe a few flecks but no erosion wear). Frankly, it has some fresh 3 bond on it and o-rings but the oil really smells foul like it hasn't been changed by the previousowner/abused. As far as the shims go, yeah gonna be pulling the other head and pulling valve gear to measure the shims to order the appropriate ones.
While I'm awaiting the new shims (seals are here) I was doing some prep work for the new old covers that don't look like someone drug them down a dirt road on the back of a wrecker hook. Overall, the lower end bearings look and measure out good, I'm going to throw in a new clutch once it gets in. And I AM replaceing those screws in the inspection cover with some nice new ones.
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Heads are apart waiting on parts and I broke my neato ebay 3-d printed wrench taking those aluminum nuts off.
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Keep the updates coming [popcorn]
While I was cleaning and examining things a few days ago, I noticed this and thought it was a good point to bring up about when you are looking at used stuff. A good reason to scrutinize EVERYTHING!! It seems a previous mechanic wound up with some spare parts, The circlip was missing that holds the forward cam bearing on the vertical head in its place which caused it to walk- it was a real w-t-beast with 2 backs moment when I was cleaning things up. Always check for when a previous mechanic decided a part was optional..
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[popcorn]
Fitted up the rear swing arm and got one of the heads reassembled. New Shims in the exhaust closers to open things up, lotsa cleaning and all new bearings and seals.. I also didn't leave out any circlips.
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Aww, go on, paint the swingarm. ;D
Quote from: koko64 on June 17, 2026, 02:52:04 PMAww, go on, paint the swingarm. ;D
It really needs that red grease and my fingerprints cleaned from it, I had it cleaned I swear but at least that eccentric is gonna move!
Heads on after getting the proper closer spacer and then finding the ones I lost. New clutch is installed as well, its getting together. Timing belts timed and set to 110 hz. On a side note, I about went nuts when I couldn't recall if I put in the oil passage bushings between the case and the cylinder. I then remembered the bushing left a nice slice in my knuckle as I was doing a last degrease and wipe down before the cylinder install. Anyhow, I checked the torque on the oil cooler nipples as well and retorqued to 27 Nm with some thread sealant. Its funny how things like that reinforce double checking just to be sure.
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Lookin' good
I did the rear tire this morning and then the head bearings, I used Podium Racings bearing kit. I spent a little time on the lathe cutting a new driver tool for the lower bearing and then installed the triple. I hung a few things on to get an idea of the finished product, the stripes don't match but I think I'm gonna get it all gloss black anyhow with no stripes but maybe the ducati decals in Silver or red. I have the bikini Fairing but its in gray and I was tired at this point. If anyone has a lead on those handlebar perches in the US I'd love to hear from you, The ones I have found so far are in Europe and well tariffs and broker fees $$$$$ keep me from getting them.
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Well I got the wiring harness being sorted and the forks front tire mounted with new bearings/both tires balanced as well as the Regulator and the plastic tank. I took a break and did some cleaning, I can only stand so many zip tie pieces and had to make an adaptor for the balancer to fit the rear rim(small axle) which then necessitated that the scrunge from the lathe be vacuumed up. I'll be pulling the Eeprom dump soon for the key codes to program the red and 2 black keys- I hate doing the translation to from hex, binary then to tiris. If anyone is in Colorado and feels self destructive and wants a Kawasaki vulcan for parts or just to burn, I've got one listed on CL for some USD and maybe a good keyboard too.
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I am just about done with the brakes aside form some incidentals I'm waiting for. I fitted the new 300mm rotors and bled the front brakes- Did I ever mention I hate the feel and smell of brake fluid? Yeah I despise it. I installed a DID 520vx chain and started to do the fuel lines, In the process I found more parts and pieces to order- I found the tank prop rod, the two really expensive special screws that go into the front turn signals as well as the frame plugs all being sold for about $25 on Ebay..
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I finally got a set o the Handlebar stands and the sidestand with shifter assembled/installed.
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Did the rear brakes/rearsets. Bled the rear brakes- don't want to talk about it so no pictures of that. I hate brake fluid but if you are looking for a handy brake bleeder tube that really fits good on the end of a bleeder, one of those enema tubes that have a fitting on the end for the 500cc syringe which is just the right amount for fork oil when doing seals. it worked perfect and not a bit of the brake fluid got on the wheel or the floor. I did the vinyl stripes on my body pieces today, I used OEM Ducati stripes from Ducati Omaha and whole lotta care/patience with the prep work to make sure things were grease/wax free. I was doing quite a bit of research on how they were placed and printed out about a dozen or so pictures of each part before doing this but overall it all went good. No bubbles but the ends needed some mild heat from a heat gun to lay flat, I realized those stripes had to have been done by hand and none were exactly the same.
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Some good work going on there. [beer]
Were the oem headstem bearings those crappy ball races bearings? If so, nice upgrade to tapered rollers.
What's your plan for the tune? Open airbox and remap? That bike is a good era of 800. The performance of the neutered 800 Scrambler model is quite underwhelming in comparison.
Quote from: koko64 on August 24, 2026, 03:03:38 PMSome good work going on there. [beer]
Were the oem headstem bearings those crappy ball races bearings? If so, nice upgrade to tapered rollers.
What's your plan for the tune? Open airbox and remap? That bike is a good era of 800. The performance of the neutered 800 Scrambler model is quite underwhelming in comparison.
Yes, I did upgrade the rollers with tapers from Podium racing, I like the brand they use vs. All balls. The streetfighter and this fit perfect, I had issues with the all balls on my 848 Evo. As for the Tune, I am concentrating on getting it up and running- The digitek dash is a real beast with 2 backs but I have the Mon08 cyclone IC interface for it- I have to do the hex to binary (some minor little endian/big endian stuff) and then revert back to binary for the Tiris conversion with the correct Ducati factory prefix code to finally flash the transponders. I considered flashing the ecu but that defeats the purpose and the Immo light stays on which I hate. I cannot agree more on that Scrambler performance, My 2022 Nightshift is fun to tear around on or just go to work but it isn't too fast. That might get traded in next time or sold(looking for a Streetfighter V2-maybe). The 800 S2R might get a ECU reflash and some more hooliganish exhaust after the Local State Troopers inspect it for a new title and roadworthiness.
Great work. Enjoying watching this. Your digital tuning knowledge is impressive.
My own modified Scrambler has an extra 12hp over stock.
Now it's just slow [laugh]
Playing with an Instrument cluster today, I went and got a deal on a Marelli Dash as well as one that was for parts for a really good price. The so called good one I got -the price should have been the tattle tale of its condition had its Eeprom cleared so I took a copy of the picture of the code from the internet and just wrote it in. Everything worked so I'm waiting on the parts dash to arrive on monday to see if the board is good on that and scavenge some stuff off it. The digitek dashes require a legacy interface which I have and costs around $1500 when they were still available- they require pin soldering but after that the process is the same. Edit: One thing about the Eeprom hex code, if the miles are wrong or something isn't right the lcd won't display correctly.
Big Edit: If you can read and research you don't need to spend up to 1K in services from certain companies who say they provide this service- These Bikes are over 20 years old now and the dashes are not made any more, parts are kinda scarce. The ECU IS NOT MARRIED TO THE ECU btw.
Location of the 24C02 Chip which was supposed to hold the mileage and key codes
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Red wire indicates orientation of #1 wire/terminal, I had to trim back the end of the clip and scrape off some of the clear protective coating on the pins.
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That is the 24C02 chip location and what to look for, there are several different chips they used and you have to set the software to the right chip
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Note the lack of mileage and key codes- someone thought that was how you got rid of the Immo. Once the dash receives from the antenna a good code, it sends a good to start or inhibit signal to the ECU- the ECU holds the check box for the immo delete in it and can be flashed but it leaves a solid amber Immo light on the dash which is not good if the law is looking over your shoulder for a driving evaluation or just an inspection.
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This is the reflashed Instrument cluster Eeprom with keycodes and mileage(I merely re-wrote and edited in the code which was on the web I think for the last few years). I made a red key and tested it- it worked as well as the bypass code. I might reflash again with the parts dash codes since the bypass is there for those that can decipher it. I will be coding 2 existing black keys into the Eeprom and have my red key cut by a local guy who has done them in the past.
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Impressive work.
I shelved the Marelli dash and went with the cleaner looking digitek dash, too much frustration in life so I simplified for now-I'm a contractor and company got bought out by larger company just when we were going into bidding which we now have a bridge contract in place. I got into the fuel hat clean up and pump/sock/filter replacement. I resealed the wiring harness plug with fuel approved epoxy but I am still awaiting the new push on retainers.
It looked kinda dirty in there on initial opening.
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Really dirty and I love how they just crammed the fuel sock in.
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Resealed the plug, the other side wasn't too photogenic.
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The digitek dash looks much better as far as condition ad the lenses.
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Playing with some body pieces for fit of the brackets and some minor tweeking.
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Coming along nicely. Nice dash, I'm a big two dial fan.
Dash looks nice, any link to it?
Was it plug'n'play?
Quote from: greenmonster on September 15, 2026, 06:05:25 AMDash looks nice, any link to it?
Was it plug'n'play?
Digitek dash, I think the gauge faces are from a company located in Poland that sells them on Ebay but they were installed in the dash when I got it. This dash was just plugged in but I was pretty done with the whole Immo thing and the prospect of dealing with the microprocessor vs just a 24C16 chip- I like the Digitek better and I had to replace the gauge glass inn the Marelli. Here's a link to the face, they have MPH and KPH but in the US we get hit by the shipper charges which they charge the max they can- it would cost me around 300 USD if I ordered them so luckily I got these with the dash.
Venoxy gauge faces MPH (https://www.ebay.com/itm/227431259827)
Quick edit- I'll start listing some hard to find parts I found, some might be known others not so. here's the small rubber boot for the oil sensor on the bottom:
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_209&products_id=958
Ok so I spent the last 5 hours(Yeah they were right under my nose) looking for my extra set of fuel quick disconnects and did some plumbing to the lines. I also installed the smoked screen on the front fairing. I threw some gas into it and got it running on its own pump for once( no more noisy external test pump).
[thumbsup]