Ducati Monster Forum

06-S2R1K. 5K miles, quatD mid-pipe. Installed Manipulator 2 mo. ago, 500 miles. Setting at richer side of scale.
Formally had surging at 4100-4400, vibration at low end <3800 rpm, no idle problems since the boys at Redline fixed that at 600mi svc.
Had the O2 sensor unplugged for past year.
After Fat Duc: Surging gone(that made it worth the $80 right there). Similar to unplugged O2, No better low end smoothness-but doesn't smell as rich/ gassy. Better/stronger running at upper limits of open loop mode(4k-5k).
I like it- seems pretty tough- well better than every other stock Duc electrical device anyway. And Jason is great to deal w/.

I also bought a FATDUC from Jason and so far am very happy. [thumbsup]
I didnt get to put many miles on the bike before the winter hit, but I def. noticed the bike
running smoother across all RPm ranges, and def. seemed to pull harder at tollway speeds..

i know im repeating from previous posts... installed it in sept. (pre circuit board beta model)
Now a few thousand miles later.
I've backed off some to try to lean it out just enough.
I think the trick is to ride it a week or so, then back off a few degrees.
If I understand it all correctly, even at the lowest setting, it is still "adding" fuel.
Either way, I have not ended back at the point where the bike is backfiring, surging or the 4k dead zone reappearing.

Now with the air temps in the mid 30's on some mornings, still  starts right up.
I ride thru winter and pretty much exclusively on the S2R. My ST3s is on life support (tender).
This past Thanksgiving took the S2R to Fla. Six hours each way. Gas mileage was quite good.
Somewhere between 45 and 48 mpg. Mostly 6 gear 70+ mph. I wish I wrote down the odometer reading before leaving. I have come to believe that apart from stopping every hour and a half (which is probably good for your legs) the monster is a capable bike to take on long trips.

0-500 ohm variable resistor from local electrical supply store.... 50 cents
spare lengths of 12 guage wiring and heat shrink from work.... 0 cents
2 hours of my time and a free bosch oxygen sensor wiring diagram sourced online.... 0 cents

no more low speed stalling/popping/surging and flawless cold starts without the need to use the fast idle lever.... PRICELESS [clap]

Bump for shits and giggles.  There's got to be more of you on this board that are trying this thing out.  I just installed one on my S4RS.  I'm running with a full CF Arrow system, stock airbox and filter.  I took it for a spin today.  The weather was cool--in the low to mid 50's.  With the Fat Duc set just shy of the 3 O'Clock position, the bike started right up and the idle seemed to be holding steady at 1200 RPM.  I rode a 25 mile loop which included a fair mix of city, backroads, and interstate.  Rolling on the throttle at lower RPMs was much smoother.  Rolling off the throttle at varying RPMs produced a burbling sound but I can only recall a couple of times where the bike popped on decel.  It's been raining a lot so I haven't been riding too much.  I want to toy with it some more and see if I can get it dialed in a little better.  I'm not convinced that my bike is running as good as it could be.

Would you care to share that info/link?

Also interested in what settings people are trying for specific bikes.
On my s2r1k- stock mufflers, quat d mid pipe, I got it set at 1/8 turn from full rich. Smells rich, kinda lugs in the low range still. It just takes a while for the ecu to self adjust, for me a couple weeks between adjustments. Not riding that much.
Where are you guys setting the little screw at?

I started at about the "silver dot", then backed off. Sorta had too gassy a smell on startups. Kept backing off until it ran crappy again. (low rpm instability / 4k dead spot) then richened up back to my last setting. Haven't touched it since.

Most have said that you should give it some time to run-in. Let the bike get up to temp with a fair ride before thinking of tweaking again. That is how I ended up where I'm at. So while it is a lean setting, it is richer than stock. The unit will even at its lowest setting still be a richer than stock setting. (at least that is my understanding)

I just googled bosch 02 sensor wiring diagram and it came up with a ton of links. If I have time, and remember tomorrow, I will try and take some pictures of my setup. It came out really clean, and you would never notice it if you weren't looking for it.

I installed mine about a month ago on my 2006 S2R-1000 which has a stock motor except for the full Zard exhaust. I've tried messing with the screw quite a bit and have finally settled on full LEAN. Even at this setting it still smells rich when idling and my mileage has dropped from 48-50 to 40-44.
On the positive side I have noticed better power in the 4-5K range and I can hold 6th gear better at 65-75, where as before it used to lug and vibrate so bad that I would normally use 5th until 80mph.
If I could lean it out even more, I would, but I'm still happy with the product. I might try unplugging it again and comparing the stock directly against the full lean condition.

I'm enjoying the extra punch down low now that the 3500RPM range is useable.  This seriously improves the bike's feel in around town riding. 

Mileage has suffered a little, but I've still got mine set to the factory dash; I think I'll lean it out a little tomorrow and see what that does.

I have a 2008 S2R1K with full CF arrow system, stock airbox and filter.  I started out with the setting at the 3:00 position and while the idle was fine and the surging had disappeared, it lugged down low.  I have since leaned it out a bit and it runs alot better--now at the half-way position with almost no popping on deceleration.  Still seems a little rich, but maybe I just need to let the ECU settle in.  The good thing is the engine pulls harder and acceleration through the gears is now silky smooth whereas before it was a little uneven.  The bad thing is the weather has been crappy so I haven't been on the bike for over 3 weeks.   

A question for the guys that have had it installed for a while.  My '06 S2R 1K doesn't want to idle when cold at all, in fact I have to keep the revs up at stop lights for the first 10 minutes or so of riding it so it won't die.  Would the fat duc help that?  Other than that the bike runs fine other than the low rpm stumbling below 3800 rpm.  Looking for a lower cost solution to the $550 ECU reflash.  Oh and my bike is completely stock motorwise and exhaust.  Thanks in advance.

Try messing with your air bleed screws (i believe)...

My 06 S2R1k does have to run for a few minutes in cold weather to properly idle. I think the combination of a really cold engine and cold oil probably account for this... maybe give some credit to the stepper motor. I need to throw a lighter oil in and see if that eliminates one possibility. Otherwise after it reaches operating temps, smooth as silk with a real low idle. I'm hesitant to mess with it since it is running well, so I will put up with the occasional stall during warm up on cold days.

Anyone think its the stepper versus the oil versus the air temp telling the ecu to tune differently than on a warm day?

My bike will do the same thing if it hasn't warmed up enough (stall once in awhile).
If I take off while the bike is flashing "LOW" I will get atleast one stall when I let off the throttle (as I am coming to a stop or what not). Once the bike starts showing temp, it is good.

Just part of the fun of owning an air cooled twin  [thumbsup]

I'm running the O2 modifier here in ( farking cold) colorful Colorado.  It's still set a bit rich, but I don't ever get these stalls you guys are talking about.  Not when the motor is cold and it's 30* out.  The ecu seems to do a fine job of automating the fast idle.  In my case, maybe it's because it's running a little rich.  After all, before all this, the purpose of a choke was to induce a rich situation so the motor would keep running cold.  The bike just adds fast idle to this. 

the side effect is I do have backfiring on engine braking.  Worse still if the throttle is cracked just a little...  I love it!
Incidentally, if the silencers are in, the backfiring occurs significantly less, not just quieter, less frequently.  Probably the added backpressure. 

Arrow Ti full system here, with K&N filter on stock ecu.  And I plan to leave it that way untill I've gotten more important things, like a functional rear shock.  The stock unit is crap, but the bike has plenty enough power to keep me in trouble.

Back when my bike was bone stock I could hear the backfires on decell, it was jsut harder to hear with the stock mufflers. Now the mufflers have been removed and the udder is open you can hear them much more clearly (i like the sound of them). Makes the bike feel more "racey" for better words, plus I like causing noise  ;D

So I adjusted the manipulator today from the factory spec dot, anti-clockwise about 2 hours.  I don't smell the fuel anymore, and the backfiring isn't near as awe-inspiring, but I suppose it's better this way....

Still, it's really priceless to engine brake as you pass some cager with their cell glued to their ear, and get a fire breathing back-crack where you get to see them jump in their carseat and drop their cell phone...  Priceless!

The bike messenger population here in Chicago is HUGE !
They are supposed to ride in the bike lane, but they usually hang out with the traffic, cause accidents, and think they are untouchable. I do the same thing to them (engine brakeing/decell pop) which always a good time.
 [thumbsup]

Ahh, the joy of scaring our large population of half-wits!!  Priceless

I tried to search for any info on the air bleed screws but couldn't find anything.  Can you elaborate a little on this?  Do I need any special tools?

Are most of your guys starting at "full rich" (the dot) and working backwards?  I'm thinking of doing the reversal as my surge problem only happens around 3K RPM.

Thoughts on one way or the other?

Thats what I did on my bike.
I started at the dot, and then when I get some more miles on it will start turning it down to see what happenes.
I didnt get much riding time after I put the FATDUC on due to winter :P
I think each bike is different, as its a matter of the setup on the bike, where you live, temp that day, etc..

I stared at the dot, then turned a sixth of a turn anti clockwise.  The bike runs leaner now, but it doesn't have such a wonderful backfire as it did when I was dumping unburnts into the headers.  The mileage has improved significantly however. 

I was dealing with this surging at 3K also, and it was taken care of at the dot, so were I you, I'd spend all your moneys on me!!!  I know that's not helpful, but I like Ducatis, and that's pricey I'm finding.  Go with the dot, then adjust from there.

been riding alittle leaner than the dot for a few months, still smells gassy. Turned it all the way to lean, will post again after a few rides.

bump:

you never got back!

Is nobody trying this thing out anymore?