Ducati Monster Forum

This thread is to provide tips for short riders.

Short bikes:
It helps to have a shorter, lighter bike to ride.  Being able to flat-foot is not a requirement for riding, although it is certainly beneficial, particularly for newer riders.  Your inseam is the critical measurement, not your total height.
Suggestions for sportbikes include:

• Kawasaki Ninja 250R (aka EX250)
• Kawasaki Ninja 500R (aka EX500)
• Suzuki GS500
• Ducati Monster 620
• Ducati Monster 695
• Ducati Monster 696

Lowering a bike:
There are two ways to do this, suspension adjustments or seat adjustments. 
Suspension adjustments (e.g. lowering link) are reversible, but can affect cornering ability.
Seat adjustments include shaving the seat (top and sides) or getting an aftermarket seat.

Boots:
Some boots are especially designed to increase the height of the rider.  Examples include the Daytona Lady Star and Daytona M-Star (for men).

Riding techniques:
Most of the issues faced by short riders are in starting/stopping and parking situations, not actual riding.

• Realize that you don't have to back up your bike while seated on it.  It is ok to get off the bike and roll it into place.
• Scan ahead for flatter areas to park and stop in; avoid stopping on hills if you can.  It's better to park farther away and walk if it is more secure.
• Look out for little dips in the road as well as the camber (the way the road slopes from side to side) when deciding which foot to put down.
• Practice uphill starts on gentle slopes: keep your left foot down and your right foot on the rear brake.  Slip the clutch and when you feel it start to grab, gradually ease off the rear brake.

Other resources:
Short Bike List (http://www.nebcom.com/noemi/moto/sbl.sbl.html) (not recently updated)
Short Bike List FAQ (http://www.nebcom.com/noemi/moto/sbl.faq.html) (not recently updated)
VTwin Mama's Motorcycles For Short Riders List (http://www.vtwinmama.com/motorcycles_for_short_riders.htm) (not recently updated)

I bought the Ninja 250 for my wife, and had to remove the dogbone links and replace them with adjustable ones. This allowed me to drop the bike 3 inches. She can flat foot it pretty easily now.

She wanted a sporty looking bike and the only thing she fit was the rebel. (A lowered Ninja was a good compromise.) I hear the 696 is narrower and may be able to be lowered easier for the shorter riders.

She is 5' 2" .. but long torso and shorter legs ... if anybody finds a better bike than the 250 for the short peeps... let me know... cause I want to upgrade her at some point in the future.

I'm 5'4" with 29" inseam...I picked up a Suzuki GS500E (1998) some weeks back.  It's a great starter bike. 

You should consider seat width and overall bike geometry rather than just seat height.  For example, I manage my husband's Daytona 675 even though the seat is very tall, because it's also very narrow and lightweight.  Learning how to stop with one leg, your ass scooted partly (or entirely!) off the seat, is key - you have to carefully manage the balance as you're stopping.

Seats:  DP gel and Corbin are lower than stock.  Sargent is about the same as stock but wider and the most comfy IMO. [moto]

Short sport riders may be steered toward the Buell Blast, but beware because it is a total crap bike.  The Ninja 250 is hands down best bike for short newbies with sporty aspirations.

Your "managing tall bike" skills will improve along with your overall riding skills.  So if you want something to flatfoot as a starter, it doesn't mean you'll be confined to bikes that short forever.  When I first got my monster, I had it lowered with a dogbone until I was comfortable with it, then put it back to stock height.

You might sometimes need a push when backing up on the bike on rough terrain or incline.  There is no shame in this.

>Nicola - 5'2", 28" inseam

The Buell 12Scg is also a bike designed for short riders. It has a seat height of 28.6 inches http://buell.com/en_us/bikes/streetfighter/xb12scg/features.asp (http://buell.com/en_us/bikes/streetfighter/xb12scg/features.asp)

Also the M-Star or L-Star Frey Daytona boots - integrated insole raising the heel by 2.5 cm and the toes by 8 mm for higher stand and easier rest on the motorbike. http://www.daytona.de/english/boots_e/gore.html (http://www.daytona.de/english/boots_e/gore.html)

I have had mine since 2003. They are so comfortable I wear them all the time even off the motorcycle.

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2143/2491290392_897d2b393b_o.jpg)

Last but not Least I ordered a Custom Corbin seat that lowered the seat height about an Inch. http://www.corbin.com/ (http://www.corbin.com/)

See the before and after picture below of my bike

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2012/2491283010_11d5ae7812.jpg)

(I apologize if this is too elementary for most people, but I have been asked for this advice by experienced riders too.)

1. The way I get on my Monster, which is short enough for me to swing a leg over and has a flimsy sidestand: Leave the bike resting on the sidestand. Stand on the left side of the bike with your hands on the bars. Hold the front brake and swing (or wriggle) your right leg over the seat. (I have to stand on tiptoe to do this.) Slide up onto the seat and push the bike upright with your left leg, putting your right foot down. Raise the sidestand and put the bike in gear.

2. The way I get onto my DR650, which has a sturdy sidestand and is too tall for me to swing a leg over: Leave the bike resting on the sidestand. Stand on the left side of the bike with your hands on the bars. Hold the front brake and climb onto the left footpeg with your left foot. Now swing your right leg over the seat. Once you're sitting on the seat, place your left foot (just my toes reach) on the ground and lever the bike upright by using a combination of pressure on the right handlebar and your weight on the right footpeg. Then slide across the seat, put your right foot down, raise the sidestand and put the bike in gear.

Note that neither of these methods will work well if you're parked perpendicular to a slope. If the left side is facing downhill it will be too hard to get the bike upright. If the right side is facing downhill you're likely to fall over. What I do in that case is walk the bike to a spot where I'm facing directly uphill or downhill and get on there.

3. Another method I've seen but have never tried myself. Your bike must be running and in gear to do this one. Stand on the left side of the bike with the sidestand up, the clutch pulled in, and squeeze the front brake. You'll need to balance yourself on your left foot while keeping the bike vertical with your arms. Work your right foot over the seat until you can reach the right footpeg. Release the brake, roll on the throttle, let out the clutch, and pull yourself up onto the seat as the bike starts moving.

I had a beeyatch of a time finding a starter bike. My inseam is right around 27" - which didn't exactly leave me many options. Even bikes like the Ninja and GS500 would have been too tall for me to start. A lot of you know this already but for those who don't, I picked up a Suzuki GSF 400 Bandit. It's a sporty bike but it has a more standard seating position than some of the other sport bikes, which I believe will lend itself well to learning with minimized fatigue. They are somewhat hard to find, but they are definitely out there and they are a small bike. In doing research on them, I've found that they are actually a better bike than the GS500 in a lot of ways. It helps to have a friend or SO with some mechanical knowledge though, as they are somewhat unique. We also ordered my tires in a slightly lower profile (still a safe acceptable size however) as to bring it down just a tiny bit more.

I would have liked to have had a bandit but already had the license and was too itchy to start getting out on the road.  I wanted something that I could get on and start practicing.  I admire your patience in this project as you will have something extraordinarily unique.  I am just not a very patient person  (ask my 9-year old)!

I can't say I blame you. The funny thing is, I'm not really that patient either. For some reason though, I don't get antsy with bike projects *shrugs* I'll probably take the MSF, hate every minute of it, and sell the darn bike after doing all that work  [laugh] That's the kind of luck I have!  [cheeky]

Another good option for a starter bike, one that's often overlooked, is a small dual sport such as the Yamaha XT 225/250 (it got a bigger engine in 2008). Sure it says the seat height is 31.8 inches, but that's deceptive because the seat is extremely narrow and the long-travel suspension compresses quite a bit even with a small rider. It feels much lower.

Little dual sports are great because they're so light you can just toss them around like a bicycle. If you drop the bike (as a short beginner inevitably does) it's easy to pick up, and not likely to get broken. They're cheap to buy, cheap to maintain, and cheap to insure. They thrive on bad pavement. And of course, you can go ride in the dirt if the mood strikes you!

mangeldbug posted a nice How-To on shaving a stock seat (http://ducatimonsterworldwide.org/index.php?topic=2513.0) as well as adding a gel insert.

Also I thought of another tip.

I used to have difficulty filling my gas tank, especially in CA, where you have to hold the collar back while you fill.  I wasn't tall enough to hold the pump vertically, so it would splash out a lot.  I then discovered if I hook the hose over my shoulder, and use my thumb to press the trigger upwards, I can hold it vertically and avoid splashing.

Have any of you short riders moved onto biker sportbikes after you've started?  I have all these aspirations of getting myself a fancy 848 or something but the seat height puts me off.  Reading this I can see that it doesn't really matter but I wanted to see what people's actual experiences have been. 

I think I'm going to be getting a pair of those Daytona boots.  They look pretty decent and I wouldn't mind being able to flat foot my bike with both feet.

5'8" roughly 30" inseam.

Thought I'd add a bit.

When lowering the seat height by using the suspension, don't do it by tampering with the stiffness of the shock. This screws up the balance of the bike. (I know, I did this.) Also, once you replace the stock link with a shorter link you should check the lean of your bike when it's on the sidestand. Depending on how much you've lowered the bike you may want to consider purchasing a shorter sidestand as well to make the bike lean more naturally instead of being too upright. Also, lowering only the rear suspension can mess up the handling of the bike as well. Try to lower the front suspension an equal amount to keep the balance correct.

I totally agree with what was said by scienceiscool about seat width being a concern as well as seat height. A common suggestion is to just carve off a bunch of foam on the stock seat but keep in mind that this widens the portion of the seat you have to stand over as well and therefor spreads your legs wider - not necessarily a good thing if you're already having a hard time reaching the floor. So if you're shaving off the top of the seat remember to taper the sides as well but be careful to leave enough foam around the edges so that the hard pan of the seat doesn't rub against the inside of your leg.

Also, I think I had a couple pictures of the different seats on the monster that someone posted and I'll put those up once I get home. Summary was that Corbin is lowest but widest, Sargent is tallest but comfiest. Sargent seats are also tapered away from the tank meaning that they force the rider to sit farther away from the tank. This is problematic because it causes you to have to lean over much more to reach the bars. I'm 5'4 and had to have my Sargent seat customized to remove the hump at the front of the seat and move the start of the passenger portion of the seat up to help keep me from sliding away from the tank.

When a short rider is starting to learn how to ride it's important to practice stopping and putting either foot down. When I started riding I always did what my CHP riding class taught me and always put my left foot down first. Then I came up to a stop on a road where the slope was perpendicular to the bike w/ downhill on the left. I kept telling myself, "Right foot down, right foot down," but habit kicked in and I tried to put my left foot down and fell over. Practicing putting either foot down will help you adjust to slopes in the road better and reduce the chance of you tipping over.

Which brings me to the next important thing for short riders. Learn how to pick up your bike. No offense (I fall in the short category too) but short riders are more likely fall over when learning how to ride than tall riders. Knowing how to pick up your bike is important.

Also learn how to push your bike around while standing next to it. This one's been said before but I've found it extremely helpful to know this skill since walking the bike around isn't practical for short people. Remember, same as with picking up the bike, put your hip below the seat and carry the weight of the bike with your hip, not your arms.

Can I ask where you got your boots?  I did some searching on the internet but can't seem to find a US dealer. 

Helimot (http://www.helimot.com/) carries the Daytona Lady Star and M-Star boots.

Before I got a bike, I was concerned that I would need to be able to put both feet down flat at once. The natural 'newbie' way to try this, is with the bike up straight.

My MSF instructors told me that this wasn't necessary, and now I've been riding a bit, I appreciate that most people would naturally lean the bike towards the foot they're putting down anyway, so although it might be desirable to be able to put both feet down, in reality, it's not really an issue.

What's important is being able to manage the weight of the bike, anticipating momentum of leans when stationary, and things like fork dip at low speeds when breaking. That comes with experience, and is why it's worthwhile starting with a smaller bike.

btw, I'm a 5' 6" guy, and have had a 620 and now a 696. Both are no problem at my height. The 696 feels ever so slightly lower.

Cool.  Thank you.

Being 5'6" with a 30" inseam I can definately relate to this topic. (Probably closer to 5'5" and 29"...but dont tell anyone)  I had (have) a '75 Kawasaki KZ400 for my first bike.  Its not as low as some other bikes but the riding stance, and general lack of power made it a very good bike to learn on in my opinion (along with the fact that you dont want to cry if you happen to set it down) The biggest disadvantage to this bike is the weight, just shy of 390lbs dry. because the bike has a fairly low center of gravity, this isnt a problem while riding, but if you do happen to drop it, it takes either a rage fueled boost of adrenaline, or just a lot of effort to rite it again.  Ive since ridden a friends Honda Hurricane (old CBR) as well as my old roommates Ninja 650R.  both were taller (the Ninja more so) than the KZ, but both easily manageable with just a little experience, I was on the balls of my feet with the Ninja (or a heel and a tip toe).  Having bought the new M696 this winter I havent even been able to ride it and am very anxious to get a good solid comparison, I know i can flat foot it, and i can lean it over 30 degrees or so at a stop and the weight is very managable. 

ANYWAY..  Im a fan of learning on something old and slow...and riding it untill you can throw it around like a scooter. That will make most bikes possible. Ive seen a few people start on 250's and decided it wasnt enough and procede to dump a new 600 that they werent ready for.

I am aspirationally 5'0"---that is, only when I hold my breath and hope---and with a short inseam, even for my height.  Finding a bike was an ordeal, and an exercise in equal parts hope and anxiety, but it worked in the end. 

I learned to ride in November, in an MSF course and on a Buell Blast with a super-thin seat. Though it was reasonably comfortable, I didn't come away from the class with any enthusiasm for continued Blast-riding.  Thus, off I went looking for a bike that would fit.

Frankly, there are so few riders my size that I didn't find a lot of help online: there were a lot of tips for lowering bikes, but nothing that confirmed that I, not at 5'2" or 5'3" but a hair short of 5'0", could do it, except perhaps on a limited number of chopper-style bikes.  Nobody's recommendations worked, at first: The Ninja 250, for instance, was dramatically too high for me---I could swing my legs in the air with the bike upright.  (Plus, I didn't love it.)  My extraordinary mentor, however, kept pushing me just to find a bike that I liked and then start thinking creatively thereafter.  I found, lusted over, and ultimately bought a Monster 620 (2004).  I did so without any confirmation that I'd be able to make it work, but with reasonable assurance that I could turn it around on Craigslist if necessary. 

With me trailing in my car, my mentor drove it straight to the shop.  We:

- Dropped the front about 1" on the forks;
- Sent the seat off to an upholsterer to be shaved down;
- Installed a lowering link;
- Installed soon-to-prove-useful frame sliders; and
- Considered, but decided against, a lower-profile tire.

When I picked up the bike from the shop, I was not encouraged: it was still too tall, it seemed.  I felt precariously incapable of correcting for even the most minor tilt to one side or the other.  I took it out a couple of times around the block and, to my extraordinary dismay, dropped it twice: thankfully, both times, without any damage (except to my ego; alas, no ego-sliders were available at my local shop).

In a last-ditch effort, I turned to advice for boots.  I wasn't willing, however, to shell out over $500 for the M-Star.  So, I went to my favorite local cobbler: I brought in the pair of slightly-platformed boots I'd already found (Cole Haan Air Sara)  and---with sincere apologies to Cole Haan---mutilated them: I had an appallingly ugly 3/4" platform added to the front and the back. 

The fashion results were embarrassing, but the difference on the bike was astonishing.  I've been out several times on the bike now and, though I'm still a notice rider, none of my problems are height-related: I can hold the bike comfortably with two sets of toes on the ground, or else flat-footed on one side or the other. 

I will post precise measurements of the seat-height (after mods) and some close-up pictures of my now-ridiculous (but very effective) shoes later.  For now, simple proof:

(http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs462.snc3/25387_710925487461_5833_38724477_6688946_n.jpg)

Note, in this picture, the shoes:

(http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs442.snc3/25387_710925482471_5833_38724476_4549851_n.jpg)

UglyDucling
6' -12 3/4"
2004 Monster 620
Los Angeles, CA

Nice job on getting that bike (and your gear) to a point where you're comfortable! I do understand your pain. At an optimistic 5'2" and short inseam, I'm on an S2R, which is a little over an inch taller than a stock 620. I'm still uncomfortable in less than ideal parking lots but I'm getting better at navigating (a shallow seat helps alot).

Have you had any trouble with dragging pegs or exhaust? And how do you manage coming to a stop? I find that I'm either bobbling from tip toes to tip toes or sliding over in the seat and putting one foot flat.

Hope you continue to gain confidence and thanks for posting up your mods!

Hello from Australia,
I'm currently on a Monster 695 and I am only 4'11". UglyDucling, I feel your pain too. I am toes only on the ground and have done the same conversions including the boots.
Good on you for not giving up. Sure it's hard work when you are stopped, but when you're moving it's bliss. And there are always the crash knobs as an insurance policy. [laugh]
I guess years of dirt biking and never having more than one toe down with the bike on a lean has given me the confidence to ride my beautiful Monster.
We shorties can do anything!!
Kaz. [thumbsup]

Im starting to think Im the only guy with this issue... [roll] Kidding, as far as footware is concerned, the boots I bought for work are the logger style, so they have a 2 inch heel (though not very much up front) they are also 11 inches high and steel toe. While they make for a very safe choice, i find that the peg sits in a not so comfortable spot on the boot when it comes time to shift. Other disadvantages to these boots are weight and temperature...they get a little warm in the summer, even in new england. but they are definately another option.

JBubble:  I haven't had any trouble stopping or holding the bike up since the mods; I can comfortably keep it steady on the fronts of each of my feet---the picture makes me look significantly more tippy-toed than I have to be---or very slightly leaned one side or the other on a flat foot.  Frankly, as I get more confidence and a better sense of the bike, I could probably lose the boots and, as you do, just shift out of my seat a little bit.

I've had no trouble with the pegs or exhaust as of yet, but that's not saying I won't.  Eventually, I have to modify the exhaust along the undercarriage to keep it from scraping the ground; it has enough clearance for the way I ride now, but as I start to lean more into curves (or if I want anyone over 100 pounds riding the bike!) it will certainly be the first thing to make contact with the road.  When I replace my stock pipes, I'll get all the mods done at once. 

Signora Monster: Rock on!  [thumbsup]

Holy Canole!  I'm also 5' and I've had to lower every bike I've owned.  Usually I do one or the other of the things on your list, but never had to do all of them.  My last two bikes, I had to install lowering links and then shortened the kick stand.  For the S2R, I had the rear suspension adjusted to be an inch lower and also lowered the front forks the same amount.  I think I would cry the first time I drop the Ducati though, so I might follow your lead and make sure I have as much control of the bike as possible.  Thanks for the tips!

My wife just purchased a used 09 696, her 4th bike.  She is 5' 2" and IS 26.5". 

S40 was first, she did not like the chopper like frontend or forward controls.  I moved the controls to standard.
Ninja250r was next.  Too high, adjustable lowering links and raised the forks.  But it was slow and not suited for long travel.
09 F650GS low last bike.  Even with the low suspension and low seat was too high.  I put on a lower profile tire on rear but it caused the ABS to cutoff and not work, plus the tire was motard type and did not last long.

696 is 30.3".  Rear travel is 5.8" front 4.7".  Stock suspension is very firm to say the least so even with preload all the way off on the shock, we only lower about 1-1/2".  Only room on the machined portion of forks to raise about 3/4".  I obtained another used OEM seat, cut it down an 1" (took 3 trys) and she is now on the balls of her feet with normal riding boots.  She is going to have her boots (really likes the tourmaster) resoled with 1".

I am now working to get the suspension setup weight wise for her (which means I will not be able to ride it anymore  :().  Ordered shock spring 66nm (85nm or actually a progressive is stock).  When we get it done will post some before and after pics.

No, you are not the only guy that deals with this issue, Me-> 5'6", 30" inseam. I solved my problem on my 796 with a DP lowering seat and some decent boots. A few days ago I got a pair of Sidi boots, the heels are just barely off the ground now which are a small difference from my matterhorn boots. Of course right or wrong, I'm usually on the left foot in first gear when stopped with the right on the rear brake which puts me flat footed (on one foot).

I have about the same hight/inseam, and I actually just traded up to the 796 myself.  With the stock seat i can stretch to flatfoot with my work boots, my new sidi vertigos are actually pretty uncomfortable in traffic, the heels are over an inch off the ground with both feet down.  So I also tend to just keep a foot up so that I can flat foot with the other. 

Here's another short rider's experiences for you. :) I am 5'4" and inseam somewhere around 29". I started riding on a CBR 125, moved up to a Ninja 650 and am now on the Monster 696. I have never been able to flat foot a sport or sport touring motorcycle, not even close! If you're my height and searching for a bike I can't stress how important it is to find the actual bike and sit on it!

I wear Alpinestars SMX-4 boots and absolutely love them. They're not as tall as the Daytona's but they give me a very solid feel. After three different bikes owned, many tried, and many miles, at this point here's what I've learned:

- Learn how to rest the bike on your hip to move it in parking lots. Once you get good at it, it's very quick and you don't risk falling over because of a hole or dip. Don't let anyone who can flat foot bug you about moving your bike!
- I prefer to keep the bike upright when stopped as opposed to leaning it to get more of my foot off the ground. The less of the weight I have to support with my feet the better. You MUST know how to use both feet. Practice.
- I've never lowered a bike, but this is because handling is huge to me, and I'm afraid to mess it up. I've survived so far!
- The worst thing that can happen is you drop the bike. It sounds terrible, but honestly the damage my Ninja 650 took from my one "oh my god I can't find the ground!" drop was MUCH less than expected and DEFINITELY BETTER than not riding because I was afraid of dropping the bike. Learn from it, figure out what went wrong, and how you can avoid having it happen again and just move on!

Here's the biggest thing I want to add to this conversation for newer short riders who are feeling like it's impossible. It gets better! That bike that feels so tall and hard to handle today, will feel like a feather weight after a few years of riding it. Muscle memory is truly an incredible thing. Over time I've learned that my number one challenge to overcome to ride tall motorcycles is my low confidence level. Once you stop saying/feeling "I can't do this" it becomes much easier. This summer I've been a riding 32.2 in seat height CBR 600RR around, and trying out several friend's 32" seat height Monsters and demoing tall bikes I wouldn't touched with a 10 foot pole 2 years ago. I'm finding out that, though I have to be careful, I can handle these machines just fine with my toes. Practice, experience = confidence. :) Stick with it, you can do it!

I would also like to share my personal experiences as a short rider.
I am 5'4'' and currently own a S2R1000 and a Honda VFR800a.
On my VFR, I got a custom, lowered seat. It is much more comfortable than the stock seat but did not help me get my feet much flatter on the ground. As it has been pointed out, the seat width is as important as its height.
I also tried the Daytona boots and did not like them. I am uncomfortable with the higher heels and found it was harder to change speed with them.
So, as Advelina said, the best solution is practice and experience. Confidence will come and make everything a lot easier.

Hey All,

One of the main reasons I joined this forum was to learn more about adjusting the riding height of the '05 Monster 620.  My girlfriend is about 5'3" and she still has a little trouble moving her bike around and feeling fully confident on inclines and parking, etc.  We've had the seat shaved and this helped, but the incline on the back of the seat still keeps her higher than ideal. 

I've been looking at the rear suspension linkage trying to figure out if there was a way to lower things that way.  Then I found your site and read about an adjustable dogbone link.  Sounds like a perfect fix -- only the old web links to suppliers no longer seem to work.

Anyone know where I can find such a part for sale?

Thanks,
Dan in East Bay

http://motowheels.com/i-8585531-corse-dynamics-ride-height-rod-748-998-hm-mts1000-m620-695-m1000-s2r-s4rs-s4-st.html (http://motowheels.com/i-8585531-corse-dynamics-ride-height-rod-748-998-hm-mts1000-m620-695-m1000-s2r-s4rs-s4-st.html)

You'd have to check how much shorter, at the shortest setting 245mm, this is in comparison to your stock rod.
Remember that adjusting the rod will adjust the ride height more (the rocker arm has a 1:1.37 ratio and the seat is positioned further back than the rocker arm pivot) Not a big issue - just take good measurements as you go along.

It's also wise to lower the front accordingly - or more if you like sharper turning.

Year and model?

Missed it. 

Get the link posted by stopintime.  Lower the front the same as the back to maintain stock geometry.

Hi All

I ride a Ducati monster 696, in which I am looking at this low seat to purchase....

http://m.ebay.com/itm/151564988913?nav=SEARCH

The stock cowl needs to be removed... Can anyone tell me how easy or hard this is to remove?
I read other posts about removing a bunch of screws but not sure it's really that easy.... also someone mentioned something about the lock?  (I'm not really sure what that was about)

Also does anything else need to happen to get this low seat on or does it literally just snap on and I'm good to go? (Once cowl is removed)

Last question- does anyone have names of any other boots that add height for the vertically challenged besides the daytona's??

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The seat is released from the lock with the key - off and on - 5 seconds.

Removing the cowl isn't required, but something you'd have to do to transfer yours to the new seat.
It's two bolts - one on each side - you can see the holes for them in the pictures in the ebay link.

 [Dolph]

Ok. Thanks. Are you sure it's just two bolts for the cowl? I see the bolts but I want to make sure there are none underneath that aren't visible that will make this harder. Two bolts seems too easy.

Try it  [thumbsup]

Also, make sure the preload on the shock is set up properly for you.  Any decent shop should be able to help you with this.

So I didn't realize the cowl was part of the seat. I thought they were 2 separate pieces. So I didn't need to do anything. Ha!  Oops. My bad. Anyways, thanks for your help! 😃