Ducati Monster Forum

Good to see a coupla nice bikes in the WareHome...
BarneyPhife just dropped off a very nice Sport Classic for a 42 rear sprocket transformation [thumbsup] (lthough he will def need a new rear tire when he gets back  ;) )
Everybody doing a thorough inspection??

Yep, I think my tires will make the trip. I'll probably do an oil change next week and rebleed all of my lines.

well, my ride is in the capable hands of Mr. McCarter....  but the tires i think will stay on for the trip.  they have nothing but tread on the outside... and i see some changes happening when i get back from HC....  i'll have to learn how to do a burnout when i get back from HC...i've never attempted one before.

Ah burnouts, fun stuff.  Compress the forks and keep the front break on should break the rear loose and bring the smoke. I did a gnarly burnout with 620 before I swapped tires/chain/sprockets.  I don't think the neighbors like me much after that

I think I'm good:

chain cleaned and waxed--yet to do
oil, filter change--check
tire condition--check
other fluids--check
various tools, CO2/plugs, and gadgets--check

The PS is good on tread... in the center!
The Qualifiers have only sen 4 track days  ;D
Probably will be time for new ones when we get back.

i think i'm just packing BDU pants for this trip!  they fit nice with knee protectors.  and some clean boxers...maybe socks?  i think that's it, right?

what else...cheapo Sansa MP3 player to listen to all the music i shouldn't be...and earplugs.

Big Dumb Underwear?
Bad Dawg Ugly?

sorry..."camo" i should have said.  loose fitting and cool; would stand up to some amount of abuse.

You'll want to pack a pair of shorts or something b.c it could be quite muggy out there. Done forget about the pool at KR too

mine's in for the 7500 mile service (the bike, not the underwear) and I need new tires before the trip. what's Randys number?

One more time... ;D

Randy McCarter- (817) 706-8870

...and quit picking on James!

1900HOTS.... err...wait, that was a different number.  Randy is 817.706.8870

I'll be bring my slime air compressor, it runs off of my battery tender connection. Plugs are a good idea, the slime gunks up your wheel

Scott, honestly, have you ever known anyone on this board to pick on, dog-pile, taunt, or otherwise harrass another poster to this lovely little corner of the internet we call home?  I mean we're above that   :-*

Grazie.

---

 [coffee]

You're right, what was I thinking :P

Now where are those fabulous photos of your artwork we've all been waiting for?

Which bike are you taking?  The PS??  So many choices... (no, you can't take that shiny black one that just appeared tonight - it's spoken for on this trip!)

How many teeth are on the stock sprocket?

38

Stock is 15 front, 38 rear.

When Randy's done I'll be at 14/42!!   :o
My front tire will never touch the ground again!   [laugh]

I just wouldn't be Duc L'Smart without the Paul Smart, now would I?!?  [laugh]






(LYD, Don't say a word  [evil] )

 :-X

The 900 will be at the warehome next week after the tank and rearsets come home.

New tires (front & rear)
New sprokets (15T front & 39T black rear)
new chain (yellow EK)
new rear rotor (galfer wave)
new rear pads (galfer)

floating rotors?

No floating rotors

Alan are the rotors full floating?

nevermind I just saw your post. Why not go to full floating if your upgrading to galfer waves?

REAR ROTOR  (single) you know the one on the right side of the rear tire? I already have it.  why spend more money.  i have already dropped a $h!t load to get everything done. [laugh]

can you just swap out the "buttons" with floating ones?  charles made it sound fairly easy...or at least straightforward...  my rotors are supposed to be full floating stock...but the wave rotors he recently put in are non-floating, like the titanic.

I am not sure, but can the rear rotor be floating???  It bolts directly to the wheel??  I know the front can be done.

I have already changed the brake fluid and the clutch fluid

Thanks cdc.

its not as easy as just replacing the buttons. You'd have to drill out the original buttons and the install the floating ones.  Those are like $10 a piece. I think there are 12 buttons on the dual rotors bikes. Not cheap, you might as well get the floating rotor to begin with

Thats for the front, but what about the back??

the back I don't believe its a necessary thing to do. Only about 20% of the total stopping power is in the rear when you apply both brakes. If you did it would probably require a rotor carrier

Thats what i thought. Kewl!  [thumbsup] Maybe a later date for the front.  I know fussion629 (ruben) did his full floating front rotors. I can talk to him on how hard it was.

While we're on the subject of floating rotors, does a '04 "base" model 999 have floating rotors?  What about the twin 320mm rotors on the 620 Dark?

there should be noticeable play in the rotor if they're floating...you can jingle the buttons by grabbing on the rotor and moving it back and forth.

I've heard the term, but I have no idea what a floating rotor is... :P

I think I know just about enough to be dangerous on this subject, but here goes:

If you look at a front rotor, there's the shiny silver outer perimeter that gets clamped by the caliper pistons. 

Then there's a separate inner part of the rotor that is made of a different material that the front axel goes through. 

There are half a dozen little bobbins that hold the two separate parts of the rotor together; the bobbins allow the two parts of the rotor to move slightly when the brakes are applied so it is termed a "fully floating" rotor.

Why this is an advantage, I'm not entirely sure  :-\  Probably has something to do with heat dissipation/warpage issues...


Help me out here, David... Please   ;D

haha, floating rotors allows for slight warping in your rotors.  usually what happens if you're not floating is that if the braking surface is warped, the caliper moves back and forth going over the undulations.  Moving caliper sends vibrations up through the forks, etc ... Floating braking surface allows the disc to move around while the caliper stays put and all the vibrations don't transfer up through the bike. 

unless you have majorly warped rotors, you shouldn't notice a difference in braking power...

AHA!!!! (light bulb turning on) I just learned something about motorcycles on a motorcycle forum... What are the odds?!?!?!?  [evil]

Now let's cut this techie mumbo jumbo. When's lunch?  ;D

oh, before we do that, I forgot, you can float your rotors FOR FREE

If that could possibly make my Duc make even more clattering noises, I'm in.

my full floating after market rotor on the monster is ridiculously noisy

do tell

Talked to randy today about full floating rotors and doesn't recommend them for street use.  He said they are great for racing, but not for street!  Call him and ask him!!

this has nothing to do with hill country...but anyway, sounds like you could take off your rotors from the wheel...and use a 19 or 20mm socket (with duct tape to protect the rotor), and beat the other side of the button (rivet) with a hammer to compress the spring and make them loose and float freely on the carrier.  i think i'll be okay with semi floating, or non floating.

back to hill country prep though...how many people have flat repair kits, portable air pumps, etc?  i was going to pick one up the other day at cyclegear when i was there for a tire, but frankly what they had, sucked.  i thought about buying a tank of CO2 from a paintball supply store, but i didn't think the delivery method was the same (i.e. same thread type etc. to be able to attach to the device that connects to the valve stem).

also we need to make sure and get a central list of names and cell phone numbers of everyone printed up to distribute before the ride.

easier to just copy paste from another thread,

from ducpainter:

It's easy....

The hardest part is often getting the rotors off.

Remove wheel and then rotors.

Take a 19mm deep socket and cover the open end with duct tape...that will prevent marking the rotors or carriers.

Turn the rotor so the large end of the button fits inside the open end of the socket. You want to support the rotor and carrier with the socket.

Hit the rivet (small end of the button) with a hammer. What you're trying to do is flatten the wave washer slightly. You have to hit it harder than you think.

Move around the rotor until all the buttons move by hand. The amount they move is directly proportional to the jingle they make.

This is a very imprecise method. I've done both of my bikes this way and am happy with the results. As always...YMMV.

//////////////////////////////////////

thread link http://ducatimonsterworldwide.org/index.php?topic=1818.0

I'll be bringing my slime air compressor.  It works off of my battery tender lead.  I don't have plugs though, just the slime.

I have my tender plug on the battery.  Will that work??

lol

It'll run off my batter tender plug on my battery.  I do have one on the 848 as well

I just don't have any tire plugs, just the green slime

got tire plugs and a CO2 thinggy....Genuine Innovations

Plugs are the long ones.

Anyone have a plug preference ???

Yeah, the kind that work, not the kind that don't work that we tried in Arkansas  :P

I have some car ones, will that work?

Actually, Rueben said it was easy.  I think he said the stock buttons can be removed and the other buttons installed which make the disc float more loosely while still attached securely to the carrier.  I've not done it myself so It could be as Bryant pointed out both not cost effective and not necessarily a big enough improvement to merit the trouble.  Sorry for the misunderstanding. :-[

cdc

As I understand it, brake discs are either "floating" or they are not.  The non floating discs are rigidly attached to the carrier or in the auto application looks like a steel hat with the brim representing the rotor/disc, bolted on to the front suspension pieces.  The older bikes, my long gone '81 BMW R65 for example, had disc brakes but were solid discs.  They are heavy and thick probably to keep it from wrapping among other things.

Floating rotors are like Liza described what almost all of the current Ducatis and Japanese sportbikes have.  There are floating discs which will jiggle and make noise and there are those which are more tightly attached to the carrier.  The fact that there are buttons mean that the disc is not rigidly (solidly) attached to the carrier and allows movement (expansion and some play).  This "loosely floating" rotors used to be a thing to have in the late '90 and early '00.  But it is curious that the 1098R has discs which are not "loose".  Maybe this is more bling on street and track but useful somewhat in race conditions.  Ductile iron discs/rotors were also once a rave but with the advent of 4 pad calipers and Radial master cylinders and now radial mounted brake calipers, what I see are stainless steel floating disc which are not "loose/full floating" disc.

Hope that helps clear the "air".

cdc

BTW, if any one want to go to a local bike shop and ask for their worse looking rear tire, you can practice doing the tire plug thing so it becomes easier and more natural to do in case you need to fix a tire on the road.  Remember practice makes perfect.

cdc

I have a f'd up tire off the old LYD we can use?  

Dang, let's practice then.  [thumbsup]

Rich: are you getting extra CO2???

i didn't get any the other day because i didn't know what kind of thread the tire repair device needed... i.e. the thing that actually delivers the CO2 from the canister into the valve stem/tire.  the threads on the large (and i mean "large") canister i was looking at, at the paintball place (we're talking like...12 oz. of CO2) looked too big to work with whatever device you have.  maybe post a pic?  or take it with you to a paintball place?  or if i go back to cyclegear for that set of Pirellis monday or tuesday maybe i'll just pick a bottle up...they're not that much...really good deal for how much you get, just a matter of if the threads match.  does that help?

take a look here for what i'm talking about as far as these CO2 bottles (btw, refills are even cheaper....the place is right next door to cyclegear in plano)   http://www.anythingxtreme.com/CO2Bottles-C1390.aspx

Maybe I should bring my superduty red air tank. I think it's a 5 gallon tank. Can't carry it on the bike but we could use it for camp repairs. Would that be useful or not?

This sounds like a scene from "Blue Velvet"  :P

I hear there are some tires that could be 'practiced' on at the warehome...  [cheeky]

I hope Alan marked his tires "NOT FOR PRACTICE"!!!

cdc

It would match Rich's bike.  If you mount it on the rear seat cover.......

cdc ;D

yeah...i'm still trying to figure out my "look"....so....

Mine takes the 16 gram, non-threaded. I think it takes about 5-6 to fully inflate a tire.  [roll]

I can pick some more up this week at Cycle Gear.  [thumbsup]

I thought we had a cycle pump in the group?!? Why do we also need CO2?

surely some entrepreneur out there has constructed a delivery method that accepts whatever size/thread of those big CO2 bottles to use to inflate bicycle/car/motorbike tires...

did some searching:
chuck for normal CO2 cans (and "bigair")  http://www.genuineinnovations.com/bikeprods.aspx?subcat=1&prodid=1000
real nice plug kits (think this is Alan's): http://www.pashnit.com/product/stopngo.html
good deals on CO2 canisters (i think?): http://www.rei.com/product/769524?preferredSku=7695240015&cm_mmc=cse_froogle-_-datafeed-_-product-_-na&mr:trackingCode=BB768827-AB22-DD11-98CA-001422107090&mr:referralID=NA
paintballer CO2 supplies (unsure if there's a chuck out there for them somewhere):  http://www.paintball-discounters.com/get_dept_5.htm
a chuck from the canucks:  http://www.cyclepath.ca/products/item1247.htm
bigair kit: http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=8&description=Big+Air+CO2+Kit&vendorCode=INNOVAT&major=3&minor=9
bigair: http://www.trisports.com/inbigair40gr.html
more bigair: http://www.triathletesports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=708162021900-17b4&click=8694

i'm thinking about one of those Pashnit kits...

I have a similar piece to that genuine innovations chuck that I carry on my bicycle with the larg'er' co2 cannisters.  I'll put it in my pack for the trip

seriously, I've got an industrial strength bike pump that'll do the trick. it's too big for mobile use, but will do the trick for use back at the cabin. if y'all want it, let me know.   [thumbsup]

I have a 12v air pump that plugs into a cigarette lighter..

actually, I've done the same thing using my bicycle pump (specialized brand) and it works just fine especially considering I pump up my bicycle tires to 110 psi!

I think Randy has some availability in the next week if you still need prep...

Randy McCarter - 817-706-8870

DAMMIT!  Where is my "pre-owned" triple clamp?!?!?  I haven't been getting too uptight about it not showing up because I figured Randy wouldn't even be able to get to my bike until after the Hill Country ride  [bang] 

Not a happy camper  :-X

Oh well, hopefully, I'll be sending Randy some work REAL soon.

He's doing my tires and frame sliders for me.  [thumbsup]

Did you find one?

Hopefully you never have to use the sliders.

man, speaking of sliders you know what sounds good right now??

(http://uweekly.com/images/contest/White-Castle-logo_34_44.jpg)

did you get speedy moto or cyclecat sliders, will?

there's a krystal burger in H-town  [cheeky]

We only got Krystals about 3 yrs ago up here. Hurst and Arlington. I like eating there I feel like a freggin giant when I eat. hehehhe