Ducati Monster Forum

I hate going over to Moto Content some times to ask for help.. 

We should plan a Garage Day to offer help if needed..  It sounded fun to me..  I know we had one back in Oregon and it was a blast..

Here is my latest Mod.. Thanks too Skinners 2 cents.. :) [beer]


(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/100_0485.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/100_0484.jpg)

I've got basic hand tools, electrical tools, an engineering degree, and a decent knowledge of two-valvers.  I'm glad to help any who are willing to help themselves.

2 cents worth.....wish I could see the picture at work.

I have a hammer,pliers & booze.       Oh...and I went to school in Taos.   

Lets fix (break) some shit   (http://smiley.onegreatguy.net/hyper.gif)

FIELD ADJUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!    [clap]



Lemme at it!!!!  ;D

LOL, coulda used some help figuring out they use locktite to secure the bottom of the fork to the lower slider.  >:( Got it now though.  ;D

I'm an ASE certified master automotive technician (no bs). I've had 2 different 4 valve duc engines apart as far as adjusting the valves. I know Kung fu sledgehammer style, I can duct tape win the best of them, and I have an expansive knowledge of zip tie usage. If we do such a garage day or whatever I'll be glad to break whatever I can and pray I can get it back together and working. (or just help out and learn/teach what I can)  

Can I recommend if you want to do a garage/class get together, we ask Doug aka volksrod (he does work for Steve @ Moto authority) to do it with us. He tried one of these & it all but fell on deaf ears.  He's a cool guy, rides well & is up to date (very important) on most models.

Or, if you feel adventurous, leave your bike with scottish, ratfink & myself, go up, grab a drink, aaaaand we'll let you know when your "mods " are done.

Ok, who's who??

(http://smiley.onegreatguy.net/3stooges.gif)

Keith is Mo.....I think...but I'm no Tard (http://smiley.onegreatguy.net/yoda.gif)

My welder has a fresh tank of gas, my chop saw has a new blade, and my grinder's are ready to rock!  Who's first???

DDGM is MIA, and, we haven't seen your version of "mass distruction" yet.  But there's always room for another Stooge.   [beer]  [beer]

Cloner raises hand.  I need to fit the starter lever to the Aermacchi, then redesign the footpeg brackets and weld on some new ones.  You volunteerin' to assist?  I need to finish the wiring harness, too, but I haven't yet selected a headlight or location for said light, either.  I also need to move the fairing back 12 or 18 mm to clear the fork tubes better and maybe build a new steering stop bracket.  Wanna look at it some night?

 [drink]

Hey lush-less, whats in that glass?

Pepsi Throwback  [thumbsup]

I can see the new add now   " Pepsi, the new Port "   AAAAAAHH

Funny y'all are talking about this: I just dropped some serious coin at DesmoTimes for a bunch of shims and tools for valve adjusts / belt changes. With 2 4-valvers in the stable, I was gonna pay the piper one way or the other. I am glad to allow others the use of tools, though I think the stuff is relevant only to the 4-valve adjustments and belt changes.

I have no problems taking a look.  If it looks like something I can handle I'll be more than happy to assist. I'm all for building and modifying things. Let me know when you'd like to and we can schedule a time. 

Nice mod and thanks for coming up with the idea for this thread.
I'm game and willing to contribute [clap]

Bonfy and I just went in halfsies on an assorted shim set as well for two valvers, figuring at some point we will prolly need them. + we figured we could replenish them as they were used thereby assuring we have the right size before the engine is apart.

lolololol  Pure win!!!  That sounds like a nightmare to me...

by the way King, I got that broken bolt taken care of yesterday and I will finish my video camera mount tomorrow.  Should be SWEET!!!

Thats great !   Can't wait to see the camera mount.

Parts are on order.. Once theyre in I'm going to attempt building a GP style Hi/Low exhaust for my bike.. the uhh "muffers" will be 7" long resonators.. so I'm sure it'll be louder than crap..  Not sure how it'll come out yet.. but I'm sure excited to try.. so we'll see what happens! FWIW Its gonna have to sound and perform pretty well before I chop a hole in my lower fairing for the pipe to come out of..  [beer]

ah the days of beer and building a bike stand with wood...that is the shit now  [beer]


this sounds all fun, a garage today i could totally benefit from since im mechanically inclined  [laugh]

so many mods to do and so little time

I would love to sit and watch a valve job.. :)  :-*  That sounds sexy ... (valve job)

Let me know when and where...   I still have 1000 miles until I have to check mine.. :)

Oh SURE...I move away to a far away land and NOW you do this...
  >:(
I knew I should have worn deodorant more often   ;D

That still wouldn't have kept me away... I lived with mother for a couple years.. :) [clap] [popcorn] [laugh]

Hey THP,
I'll be checking into metal edging primers for high temp applications which would
promote adhesion of the engine enamel to your exhaust and prevent it from chipping

its our plot to get u back  ;D is it working?!?!

who doesnt love ur nat-u-ral scent big boy...nothing like the threat of a sweaty arm pit head lock to bring us closer together  [laugh]



so i was thinking i wana try and set up my suspension to my weight..i know i can just go to pjs and do it for 35 buckos...but what fun would that be...a learning experience, anyone wana help me.....<cough><cough> kingbaby  ;D [bow_down]
and teach me the way oh wise ben kenobi  8)

Don't mean to butt in here, but setting the sag is dang easy. The main difficulty is gathering enough hands to hold up the bike with you on it and take the measurements. Compression and rebound dampening you can tweak to your own preference.

Whenever you're ready.  [thumbsup]

Tis true..  Sag is one of the easier things to setup when there are enough hands available.  (my only issue is finding a dang metric ruler or tape measure. Mine are all American)  Somewhere I've got a good guide to setting up baseline compression/rebound.  It seemed to work fairly well on mine.  I think there was something in Last years Trackday Guide from Roadracing World.  I'll have to see if I can dig it out.

------>found it! After I re-read it I'll see if I can summarize it and post it up here.  Not sure I'm up for retyping an entire article.  (however.. there is *nothing* better to do at work today.. Thank you for declaring bankruptcy GM!) 

im sure easy for u guys that have done it before...and i never have...so something learning for me!!!



ah ur sooo sweet, but u dont have to ype it up......i can always get the mag from ya  [beer]

Last time I was at PJ's, Shanon let me see the preload (to my weight with all gears), compression and rebound settings and three of us managed to get it done on the 1098s. The rear preload lock nut is a beast, be careful not to destroy it! There is material online to understand it and Kawboy sent me a link a while back, however 30minutes with Shanon at PJ's makes it easy even for my stupid head!  [thumbsup]

http://www.gostar-racing.com/club/useful_information.htm (http://www.gostar-racing.com/club/useful_information.htm)

JJ

Well here it is. Yep I was bored. I read through it a couple of times to proofread, but  I guarantee nothing in the Grammar and punctuation and spelling departments.  Either way, Its a pretty decent read for someone who's never messed with suspension before.  Hope it helps someone else as it has helped me.   [thumbsup]


Suspension Set-up for Dummies
By Michael Gougis
Printed in Roadracing World 2008 Trackday Directory

   Its easy for the novice to sportbike riding to look at this knobs, dials, screws and threaded collars on the motorcycles suspension and reach one of three conclusions:
*They must have gotten it right at the factory
*Somewhere in the middle of the adjustment range must be close; or
*This knob goes to 11, so if I crank it all the way up, I'll be going really fast.

   If your new how do you know whats good and whats bad, whats right and whats wrong? Where do you even start? If the bike is handling poorly, which of the six basic adjusters do you move? Which way to you turn them?
   And of course, you're trying to figure out what the suspension is doing at a time when you're kinda busy.  You want the suspension to work while cranked over, knee on the ground, feeding in throttle and feeling for the limit of traction at the front and rear.  On a liter bike, that means that while 150+ horsepower are trying to tear the rear wheel loose from the ground, you're trying to analyze suspension movements.  Its not easy; even professional racers sometimes just throw up their hands and tell their crew chief, "I donno, its just not good"
   What you need is a systematic approach to setting up the suspension, trying new things, and working toward a baseline setting that works relatively well. Once thats established, you can experiment with different settings, knowing that you can always go back to what worked.
   That baseline setting does not come about by accident.  There are two ways you can find it.  The first is to take someone else's suggestion for what worked for them- not necessarily a bad approach, but one that denies you the opportunity to learn how to find out how to set a suspension up.
   The other approach is to start from scratch, building up a knowledge of your bike, your suspension, your knowledge of how changes in the suspension affect the bike, and your vocabulary for describing the changes.  That vocabulary is critical not only for discussing chances and improvements with a tuner, but in crystallizing in your mind what the bike is doing.
   Getting a suspension tuning guide from a reputable source in the business can help with this learning process.  There are a few well known suspension tuners who have put together guides for riders who want to try to sort their way through the adjustment maze on their own. Among them are Max McAllister, Whose "Suspension For Mortals" handbook if available from Traxxion Dynamics, and Paul Thede, who has a collection of technical articles on the racetech.com website.
   Another source aimed at the beginner, is "Twiddling Knobs" a DVD put out by Dave Moss of Catalyst Reaction Suspension Tuning.  This 94-Minute DVD walks the rider through the various types of suspension adjusters, what each does, and how to experiment with them on the track. This last bit is particularly valuable, as it gives the new rider some idea of what kind of behavior from the motorcycle is related to which of the adjusters.
   Moss's advice can be broken down into three main areas:
*Set up the springs properly
*Use rebound Damping to get the chassis balanced
*Ride the bike, feel what it does, and spin rebound and compression dampers to dial out the bad stuff (doing these things in order is critical)
   "Dont be afraid to change settings and try things out.  But most importantly get the bike set up to your weight and use that as a benchmark before you then try and hydraulic dampers" Moss says

*Setting up Springs*

   Theres an entire section on the DVD devoted to setting up sag- the distance the suspension compresses when you sit on the bike.  The suspension works best in the middle of its travel; sag is the way you get the suspension sitting right at the beginning of the optimal performance area of its travel.
   Preload adjusts the tension on the springs and adjusts the ammount the bike sags under the rider at a standstill. Front and rear preload are two of the basic suspension adjustments.  Preload typically is adjusted by a hex nut atop the forks and a threaded or ramped collar at the rear.  (Different manufacturers have different adjusters in different places on their motorcycles.  Before you spin anything, look at your model-specific manual and know what you are turning)
   While making this adjustment has been gone over in great detail many times before in this magazine, Moss adds a couple of caveats;
*Be sure you are measuring the total sag. Most motorcycles will sag somewhat under their own weight.  Lift the rear by the subframe, or the front by the handlebars, and make sure the suspension is at full extension before making your first measurement.
*Street settings are somewhat softer than race settings.  In the rear, Moss looks for about 1.125 inch of sag- the distance from full extension that the bike compresses when the rider sits on it- for racing. For street Moss sets the rear sag at 1.25 inches to 1.5 inches.  Up front, Moss sets sag at about 1.50 inches to 1.75 inches for the track and 2.0 inches for the street.  Set the sag when the springs and suspension fluids are warm from riding.
   On the DVD, Moss demonstrates how much difference a riders weight makes in a suspension setup.  He puts one rider on a bike and sets the rear sag at 1.125 inch, then puts a rider about 30 pounds lighter onto the bike.  The bike sags only .75 inch.  Moss points out that in this scenario there isnt enough preload adjustment left to dial in the increase in sag necessary to get the lighter rider into the proper suspension operating range.  A  change in springs is necessary.
   When checking the rear sag, make sure the chain has slack; otherwise, it will cause the rear wheel to stop in its travel.  Youll watch Moss tuck his head under the tailsection when the rider gets on and off.  "You dont want to get kicked in the head and get knocked out," he says.  "It happens."

*Rebound Damping*   

   Rebound damping slows the reaction of the motorcycle to the compressed springs front and rear.  It is caused by forcing oil through orifices in the shock and fork legs.  When the motorcycle hits a bump, the spring compresses, then tries to return to its original length.  Without adequate damping the fork or shock will over extend, then compress again, then over extend again, with cycles shorter and shorter until they stop.  The more rebound damping the slower the return; the less, the quicker.  Front and rear rebound damping are the second two ot the six basic adjustments.
   Too little damping allows the motorcycle to bounce up and down on the spring.  This means that when the next bump comes along, the suspension component is likely not in the proper position to react optimally.  The result is a wheel that is bouncing in an uncontrolled manner, compromising grip and rider conficence.
   To adjust damping at the front, Moss suggests grabbing the brakes and pushing the front end down and releasing it.  Note how many times the forks compress and rebound on their own.  Add rebound damping (typically screw type adjusters atop the forks) until the forks return to their original positionand stay there, or until they rebound slightly passed their original positionand drop back immediately.  This way the forks are ready for the next input.  waiting at the place you carefully set the sag for to allow them to work properly.
   The next step is to make sure both ends of the motorcycle are rebounding at an equal pace.  To check this grab a handlebar and something sold near the back of the bike.  Push both down at the same time.  They should ride back up at roughly the same pace.  Having a friend along to help check your perception can be very useful during this stage.  Since the front rebound damping is set, increase or decrease the rear rebound damping until the rear rises at the same pace as the front.
   Time to go riding.

*Compression Damping*

   This adjustment determines how rapidly the suspension will react to an input.  Front and rear compression damping are the last two of the six basic adjustments.  On the track on on the road, Moss says too little compression damping at the front will feel like sharp shocks through the handlebars, and the bars will start to twitch.  This is because there is little damping to slow the compression input.  The fork may bottom and the front may wash away rather quickly.  Too little at the rear and the bike will move up and down, and as the wheel weights and unweights traction will be compromised and the rear will feel like it wants to come around.
   Too much compression damping at the front feels different.  Instead of the dramatic suspension movements and the occasional sharp jolt, every little bump will send a jolt straight up to the riders arms and shoulders.  Its a miserable ride. Too much compression at the rear feels similar, with the rear not moving around as much, but delivering a constant stream of sharp jolts to the rider.
   Too much rebound damping at either end can also deliver a painfully harsh ride, as the suspension doesnt have time to return to its optimal setting after an input.  A series of inputs packs the suspension into a fraction of its travel and the ride quickly turns harsh.  Too much rebound damping at the rear can also make the bike run wide at the exit of the corner, as the rear squats and the rake therefore increases.
   for the DVD, Moss has mounted a camera on the motorcycle, aimed at the wheels, and he does laps with the suspension set at various places.  This allows the viewer to actually see the differences that the changes in suspension settings make. Too little damping allows the wheel to move wildly, while too mich keep the wheel stable in its travel, but the camera (and the rest of the bike) shakes from the shock of unabsorbed inputs.
   It takes some effort to get it right.  But when you do, what you wind up with is a motorcycle that feels smooth and planted solidly everywhere on the track.  You, The rider, arent paying as much attention to the bike moving underneath you.  You find youself paying far more attention to braking markers, turn-in points, and screwing on the throttle earlier and harder with every lap.  In other words, you, the rider, are spending more time doing what you went to the track to do- ride a high performance motorcycle as fast as you dare.

*Final Thoughts*

   This is Moss's most basic introduction to suspension setup.  Other's do it different ways.  Suspension is one of those areas where even at the Moto-GP level, They dont always get it right.  But if you, the track day rider dont have a plan on how to set it up, the odds of stumbling onto the right combination are pretty slim.
   Most suspension tuners suggest making big changes.  Moss suggests that you figure out how much range you have to play with (the total number of settings or 'clicks' for a particular adjustment) and make changes that total about one-third of the range of adjustment.  If your rebound damping is five 'clicks' out from full soft, and you have 15 'clicks' to choose from and want to add more rebound, try adding 5 more clicks.  You want to make a change that you can feel.  If you've gone the wrong way, you'll know it quickly.
   Keep careful track of the changes you make, and dont be afraid to un-do something that feels worse.  When you get lost, Start over.  Check the sag, set the rebound, and ride again.  A little time spent setting up the suspension at the beginning of the day pays dividends in terms of comfort, speed, and fun the rest of the ride.
   

Thanks Fink.. :)


Also would love a minute of your time fink... I have a Truck question..

Its my head light relay for my brights..  They wont come on..  I have the whole 5,000 page shop manual if you could help me..

Thanks

M

(holding my magical wrench to the sky).. uhh.. try page...  1346.. ???   Seriously though later this week or saturday hit me up and we can take a look at it.. I've got a meter at my house and can bring a test light home.. I'm sure we can figure something out.   

Cool Cool.. Thanks a bunch

Good God,  After running dealerships (including Ducati), and being a paid concept motorcycle designer... that actually go to production,  my head is spinning.  Like JJ said, 30min working with Shanon on a 1098 is worth a fortune  (especially when you chip the frame loosening the lock ring) , and it doesn't take 100 pages to make sense. 
I very much know how to do all this, but I have a rule about a certified tech.  When you ask him if he knows what he is doing, and if it's worth the money, his responce should be,     "Where were you at 8 am this morning" 

 How 'bout we get to the part where people make things better..... and cut stuff up   [evil]


Less talkin' more rockin'. 

Now I'm interested [evil] ;D

If anyone finds themselves in a situation where they can find tires but no mounting... I have become well versed in the ways of tire-irons and aluminum rims.   [bang]

.. FWIW I have a tire machine at my work that can do motorcycle wheels. I used it to do my 749 set a few months ago. Balancing is another story all together, but I can get them mounted up if anyone needs it.  (and is able to get them off the bike)

sounds like we could look into balancing  [laugh]


that would be most excellent to sit with shanon and learn how to do alot of stuff....

hey babe check this out

(http://www.ducati.ms/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29907&d=1208129965)

I'm thinking of ways to build a balancer.  Two ideas jump out: horizontal axle with precision bearings (heavy side will rotate to the bottom), or a vertical setup where the center of the device sits on a pivot point and has a 360* level bubble on top.

The old man is wanting to do it too.

If you replaced the gauges with smaller ones, that wouldnt be too bad.  seems unbalanced as it is  :-\

Understatement of the month.   ;)

And then there is always Kawboy's set-up.  He balanced my back tire a couple weeks ago.  Scottish can bust them on and off.  Kawboy's compressor was faster than the Scottish's bicycle pump.

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc120/bonfygloria/2009%20summer/000_0185.jpg)

Didn't know Kawboy had one.  Either way, I'm gonna have one for up here in northern NM

that is awesome  [thumbsup]

knowing i cant see anything ....lol

Is that a wooden wheel balancer i'm seeing behind Kawboy?

Yup, he's handy as hell with that thing.

Note to self: buy 2x4's and angle Iron..  I gots me a balancer to build!  On a productive note, Timing belts were installed tonight.  Took a little less than an hour altogether.  I Wouldve been fabricating an exhaust, but My Ryobi Chop saw had different plans.  The housing for the brush for the motor cracked, and the 120v short-to-ground created a cool little eletrical fireball and flipped the circuit breaker.  New parts on order.     [bang]  [bang]  [bang]  On a slightly more positive note: I'll have a loaner saw for the weekend, If all goes well an exhaust system and a floor skeleton/3" section for the model T may be a reality by sunday night.  I'm gonna need some frappuccinos.    [beer]

thats cool!

but useless with out pics?!?!

needs pic of ur process  :P

The only camera in the house that is currently functional is in Europe (Austria) at the moment.. and My phone takes crap pics.  Sorry. about the next best I can do is a step-by-step instruction. 

Ok So here is my night's progress on an attemped MotoGP style exhaust, No its not titanium, Its not even stainless. I started out with 17" resonators, Chopped them down to 7".  2 Mandrel bent J-bends for the twisties and turns.  One welder, One Scotch and One beer.  I still have to figure out how I'm gonna temporarily mount the lights, until I can get the "shield" built that is going to go under/around the undertail pipe, and *IF* I decide to keep it, Then I'll chop a hole in the lower fairing and put an aluminum surround around it as well.  First Impressions?  Holy Freaking crap.. Might as well be open pipes!!!!  (its 7" of unpacked resonator WTF was I expecting??)  I'm gonna ride it some after I get the rear lights mounted and decide what I think of it then and If its gonna stay or if its gonna be a "well that was fun" trial and error type expierence.
Yes, Crap Cel-Phone pics in crappy garage lighting.

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img682.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img683.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img684.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img685.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img686.jpg)

Crap phone & lighting aside,  Those look great!

They look like the shizz.

OK.  For those inquiring minds, here's my wheel balncing setup.  You must level it front to back and side to side.  I have leveling screws in the base.  Set the wheel on with the axle.  The heavy part will rotate to the bottom then put weights at the top until balanced.  I temporarily tape them in place until I see how many I need, then clean the wheel and install them permanently.  This is from yesterday putting on my new rear tire.

(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm203/feckert/DSCN3232.jpg)

(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm203/feckert/DSCN3233.jpg)

(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm203/feckert/DSCN3234.jpg)

(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm203/feckert/DSCN3235.jpg)

(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm203/feckert/DSCN3236.jpg)

Good job Fred!
Meanwhile i bought my son (with his money) a nighthawk but am having trouble with the headlight. The headlight fuse has power but I am stuped from that point on. I dont have a tester. I am guessing maybe a short in the high low swith or something under the gas tank but that is as far as i can get. Anybody have a tester and is good at electrical troublesooting?

We could probably come to an "arrangement", HP.  Do you have an electrical schematic to work from?

No....doh! But there are only 3 wires going into the headlight. 1 ground? and 2 hot? maybe i could find a schematic online. my son comes home tonight from europe and this is his new bike...wish the light worked.... :'(

I'm going for a little ride late this morning but should be home sometime late in the afternoon.  If you wanna swing by the house we'll give it a look!  Look for a PM with my phone number if you wanna holler at me.....though I think you already have my cell.

Some of you have already seen/heard the all-powerful GP-style exhaust I threw together with some duct tape and zip ties.. but for those that havent.. here are some "fully assembled" pictures.  I'm going to put an aluminum shield around the underside of the rear pipe (over the lights, under the pipe)  and an aluminum "ring" (I guess you'd call it) around the lower pipe, riveted onto the fairing.
Again, Crap Celphone pics   ;D
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img691.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img692.jpg)

This here was my inspiration.  you can see the "Ring" around the lower pipe I want to try and create.  The lovely Carbon Fiber around the upper pipe would be nice, but thats not a medium I am proficient in manipulating, So Alumimum sheet will have to do for now. 

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/Desmosediciexhaustb.jpg)

Once again,   [thumbsup]

I have finally perfected a replacement shifter nub for those of you that go down on the left side...

I was using a 1/4-20 bolt as a replacement.  Worked fine, except bolts are not made to have bending applied to them... they are tension devices.  Consequently, it would always snap off at the most in-oppertune times.  Riding along I-70 to denver for example.

To fix this problem, I rounded up some 3/8 steel round bar, lopped off about an inch and a half, and drilled and tapped one side to fit the very same 1/4-20 bolts.  Now no bending is applied to the bolt, only tension, and the shifter is far more comfortable.

Good news is, if anyone goes down in Ouray this year and needs a shifter, a quick ride down to Aztec, and we can fix it right up!

 [thumbsup]

Cool!!!   I'm there!!!!!    [thumbsup]

There goes Bonfy counting her dismounts before they hatch... er, happen.  [laugh]
Thanks Punxs now she gonna do it just to get a tricked out shift lever.  [roll]

Discount for large orders??  (http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm203/feckert/Smileys/hideingsmiley.gif)

Now I can check valves! Good thing none of mine were out of spec, cause I dont have shims...

For anyone who's interested, I found this on another forum I was browsing.  Ducati special tools for rent.  For when your bike is having that special moment in its life when it needs a little more TLC than just an oil change!  Pricing doesn't seem too bad either!

http://www.ducatitoolrental.com/ (http://www.ducatitoolrental.com/)

well guys we got some of it done!!

thx so much to my wonderful BF doing so much of the work :-* since i am not so mechanical  [laugh] (shut up stu [cheeky])

here we go


(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/S7001579.jpg)

(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/S7001580.jpg)

(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/S7001581.jpg)

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(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/S7001583.jpg)

(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/S7001584.jpg)

(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/S7001585.jpg)

(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/S7001586.jpg)

(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/S7001587.jpg)

(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/S7001588.jpg)

carbon fiber beer tray?

.... Its for Lite beer.     [clap] [popcorn]

And comes with a carbon cocaine spoon, & rolled carbon in the shape of a $100 bill also. 

nice rearsets but is there an exhaust shield for the mouse's boot?

where's the button for the carbon fiber stripper t!ts to come out for said cocaine?

 [thumbsup] wow. nice

   [popcorn]

 [laugh]

Welcome love..  Ill put up some of my new pictures up once I have finished.. I put on gillies rear sets last night and my new sargent seat. I have 320 rotors and 65mm 4 piston calipers to be done. Bitubo steering damper waiting to be installed after all of the powder coating, I have cycle cat clip-ons getting powder coated, and upgraded front forks.. Very excited..

Ohhhhh also thanks stu for helping out with the parts.. (even though we didnt use them) :) Means alot.. Let us know if there is anything we can do for you in the future.. :)  [thumbsup]

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/S7001589.jpg)

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/S7001596.jpg)

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/S7001592.jpg)

make the beast with two backs that! its for the best IPAs  [drink]


ya a carbon fiber one that came with the exhaust.....


just what i was thinking  [laugh]

The bikes are looking great guys  [thumbsup]

Did I mention, that along with the grn. canuder valve I put on my bike, I also put on a new registration sticker?  This thing is INSANE !!!! 

 

 

I've heard registration stickers add more HP that carbon accessories..  is this true??   Do they make green canuders for the xx9 bikes or am I going to have to go with a different color?  I think tomorrow I'm gonna lube my muffler bearings for a smoother exhaust flow too...

Well...DUH. That sticker cost $60.  Think how much it weights?  I could barely keep the front end down  :o 
Carbon is funny, right? Unless its in a mass like wheels,exhaust & frames, it all weights the same as plastic (which you couldn't make any of those three out of for the record...well, ya' could, but they would either break, or melt) ...but we love it...cuz it's purdy.  Even mouse gave in.

As far as canuders...you're stuck with the orange one...sorry  :(

Pony up for the ceramic muffler muzzler bearings, they are smoother, & you never have ta' lube them.   [thumbsup]

So here we go.. 970 dollars later.. here's what I have..

(http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ihHsOsUWCeir1M:http://www.desmoworks.com/images/KIT-STERZO-R4.jpg) Bitubo Top mount
(http://i.ebayimg.com/02/!Bpbd8Og!Wk~$(KGrHqUH-CcEuZ21jv,3BLrVKMF))Q~~_35.JPG) 2005 s4r shocks 7k on them
(http://i.ebayimg.com/02/!Bq+QQGQCGk~$(KGrHqMH-CsEvDnJshBPBL)yi1MU6!~~_35.JPG) 4 piston goldline
(http://i.ebayimg.com/23/!BpSKvBw!2k~$(KGrHqQH-EIEuY))OjyfBLqrJQ373w~~_35.JPG]) cycle cat clip ons
(http://i.ebayimg.com/17/!Bpy+7VQBGk~$(KGrHqUH-DkEu,I0IwUmBLs6tb,VFQ~~_35.JPG) 320 rotors
(http://i.ebayimg.com/05/!BtDKzDwEGk~$(KGrHqMOKkEEvOPSvwvCBL6Wn2W5+w~~_35.JPG) 749 s rear shock.. This can fit with minor mods.. :) Ill need a new shock though
(http://www.kandn.com/images/m/62-1120.jpg) this is too relocate my oil breather for the new shock.. :) thanks stu..
(http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/motostrano_2102_27120357) seargent seat italian flag.. :)
(http://www.datazap.net/sites/TampaSale/Ducati/DUC%2001%20ST2%20B008589/P2039097.JPG) With a shorty black pazzo with a little scratch on the end

So Ill be calling race tech tomorrow morning and order some gold valves and What else do I need for the forks, So i dont sound like a noob..

Also Ill need to get a new spring for the rear shock..

Thanks krystle for my Gilles .. Those arent included.. :)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/S7001596.jpg)

Holy crap man thats awesome! You're gonna have a nearly new bike when all is said and done!  Let me know when you're ready to cut things up!   [thumbsup]

Ebay has been my friend..:) I have been watching it very closely the last month.. This is everything that i have gotten..

Super great deal for everything I have.. Next Im thinking 749 or 999 wheels  or fly wheel..

:)

thanks again.. Figured I would share with the world..:)

cool plumber! cant wait to see the outcome!

bushings, seals, dust covers, gold valves, fork oil, fork springs, your weight, and tell them what bike the forks came from (so everything fits) and what they're going onto (so you get springs for the right weight and the correct shim stack configuration).

Looks good, PC.  Too bad it's not a 250 racer, though.   ;D

I actually just scored another set of forks from the forum.. :)  Ill just use the best set and I can take apart the top triple and lower and powdercoat them.. :)


http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=38306.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=38306.0)

I don't think you're going to be able to get the rear XX9 DSSA wheel to fit on your SSSAs Sr2..   848's maybe? I know the 1098 and 848 have different rear axle sizes, I'm not sure which one matches the Monster axle size.

Per PJ.. He said that when he had his s2r 800 it was a direct swap over and they were lighter.. So I guess Ill look into it a little more..

B/C of the horsepower & torque of the 1098 & up SBK's & the Streetfighter, Ducati put it's larger rear hub into the SSSA's.  The HM and 848 still have the small rear hub (same as your S2R) so any wheels with the small pin will swap.  916/748/998/MTS/S*R

I've heard the larger hub wheels will swap to the small hub bikes (not visa-versa) , but can't confirm.

Oh...and you're welcome you two.  Anytime!  [beer]

Scratches head.. Your right.. Those were the bikes that fit.. There the ones with the ugly ass 3 spoke wheels.. I was just looking for lighter wheels..

lighter=CArbon Fiber wheels  ;D

just saying  [laugh]

*Fixed*

either way eomthing is lighter  [laugh]

I have an automotive shop. 2 great mechanics.

Where are you located at?

Have I met you before? If not hello my name is Matt aka Daaa Plumber..  Hint Hint .. If you need a plumber.. :)

... I just gotta do it....

WABBITSEASON!

welcome I see u have made our neck of the woods and don't mind Matt he is always selling himself like a hooker [laugh]
[laugh]

Someone have the rear suspension tool that I can borrow?? I know a flat head and a hammer works but it takes for ever..

My brother has spanner's for car/truck coil overs.  I'll ask him if they'll work.  I'm not sure if the collar diameter is the same or not.

Yeah I dont know.. I was out there yesterday with a hammer and flat head and I was hating life.. [thumbsup]

I have a couple you're welcome to try, PC.  I refuse to use the hammer and drift technique, personally.  It really boogers up the adjusting nuts.

soooo we stopped by PJs and looky what i walked away with  [evil]

(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/S7001610.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/S7001611.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/S7001612.jpg)

ya now that some BLING!!! i honestly say i like these carbon blingys i have got so far..... [moto]

 [thumbsup]

 

Mouse quote...over...and over...and...
"I don't like carbon, it's ugly"

You know my feelings on it, mouse.
 Bad/cheap ass carbon, is ugly.
Good carbon.... meow........MEOW!



bike looks great  [thumbsup]  [bacon]

Ya ya I know! I wasn't but now I'm a refrmed women [bow_down]

thx! I'm loving it! It's just looking good and I'm so happy with it.

 :)

Are you talking about a new oil pressure switch?  I don't get it.   ;D

i was talking about the huge frame slider ;D

we're at 3400 2nd St NW. 1 block south of candelaria. 341-9410. "Woody's Hot Wheels".

i don't believe so, I'm a new rider and new to these forums. I'm Reuben. Ok cool... we are a full service automotive shop.. Hint Hint..

ha ha very clever...my other tag is "shootin'Ducks!"

i'm new to this, your crack buddy, Matt, invited me lol

 [thumbsup] [beer] [beer]

and who says "that is crack is bad"  pppppffffffttttttt [laugh]

 [thumbsup]

me likey!

 [thumbsup]

I got one!  If you still need it, let me know.

I got it.. Thanks a bunch though.. ;-)

Its official I scored this.. :)  300 hundred.. :) yeessssss

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250631464662&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250631464662&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT)

OOOOOhlins!  That is awesome man.  good score!

Sessy, Matt!  Now all we gotta do is fix up some forks, mount that Mutha up, and go for a spin!!!

So i decided to just do it and rip everything apart that I want to get powder coated.. :)

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/IMG_1411.jpg)

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/IMG_1412.jpg)

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/IMG_1413.jpg)

im having a couple issues with the top triple and lower triple..

scratches head.. I want you to come off already.. Tips??

Thanks

Long extended M6 allen to get the center pinch bolt loose off the funny top triple nut.  Then, you'll need the special tool for that funny nut.  Then the lower triple falls to the floor (or you gently lower it down).

Special tool available on ebay for like 15-25$ If I recall correctly.  I remember pointing DGGM in the general direction of one when his monster was over at PJ's for an extended stay.

I got the Alan.. But the damn nut is the one.. Ok well is there one I can borrow just to get off?? I just need it for an hour or 15 mins..

M

Please please.. i beg of you.. :)

Ok..  Im going to powder coat everything this week " tuesday".

There will be a black metalic and a gold metalic if you want any of those colors chime in.

It will have to be smaller then the size of your top triple.

please let me know by monday..

Matt

Is there anyway that for my birthday we could get a group toghther and work toghter and put my bike back toghter.. there will be beer and food..

July 9th is my day

I don't see why not....but we should be done well before that if you have the fork parts.  When do you expect those?

Why so late PC?  Why not plan on having the damn thing DONE by July 9th and then do a ride to celebrate both your birth and your tenacity with modifications?!?   ;D

BTW, I have your steering head bearings and front brake line.  [thumbsup]

Well.. thats fine..  The fork stuff should be here soon.. They are coming from speed dog in CA..

Fine can we have a early b-day party then.. :)

Im waiting on powder coat and fork stuff. Everything else ..

So I attempted to cut out the lower race on the lower triple and I cant get it.. bang Bang head..

Can someone give me some pointers?

I have two of them and The first one was dremel attempt and the second wont me a dremel..  :'(

Thanks

Matt

The one in the steering head or the one on the triple tree?  (Outer or inner race, that is)

I should have said, either way, they typically press off.  Dremel, bad!!

:) sorry.. :) well its off now and all getting powder coated.. Still waiting on the fork stuff.. sigh..

:)

The latest video.. Im a little frustrated tonight..  Damn bolt go in your  HOOOLLLLEEE

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/th_IMG_1466.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/?action=view&current=IMG_1466.mp4)

NEW PIPES and Forks..

There is a little damage on the carbon fiber .. They are full arrows off an s2r 1k and got them for a steal from a salvaged bike.

I called Karl about fixing the carbon fiber .. Oh also I ordered a new end cap from arrow .. That will be here in 3 weeks.. :)

Here are the pics.

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/IMG_1471.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/IMG_1470.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/IMG_1468.jpg)

FORKS

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/godzfireman/IMG_1454.jpg)

So, which forks are you using, Plumber?  Got internals yet?  Let's get that scooter rolling!

Well.. I scored another set of forks with internals done.. Spring and emulators.. So the once sitting at your house Ill just sell and give you a few bucks for your time.. The powder coating should be done tomorrow and then Ill start putting her back together..

I got the shock installed and looks great.. :)

So I think Ill do a help out party some time this week..

Karl and I are going to attempt to put that exhaust back together..  I got the exhaust from moto authority.. :) thanks steve..

I'll pick up the epoxy from work tomorrow....got everything else to fix the your crack....no pun intended ;D [clap]

Oh my, not sure what's happened in his thread, but it sounds like a bike has been in pieces for a long time. I feel for this bike, only a few months left in this summer :'( I want to see this art when you get her all back together again!

finally he gets his crack fixed...i..meean..eerrr



what took so long was the powder coating...but it wont take long for him to put it back together and out riding.... its gonna look spankin when its all done [moto]

Not necessary.  Want me to put these back together so you can sell 'em?

Apparently (not that anyone here cares about a Triumph on a Ducati forum....), there is a ZX9R rear shock that is a bolt-on for the Legend and is dramatically better than the stocker.  $60 shipped on Flea-bay and I should have it next week.  ;D

PC:  I'm going to my shop in the next couple days and will retrieve that front brake line for you...  [thumbsup]  Sorry I forgot before.

woohooo thats good to hear [thumbsup]


well matt isn't getting his stuff back today..looks like they said tommorow so hopefully he does so he can get the bike together for a ride sunday

looking for a stock front brake lever for a 06 MTS 620 also the 1000 will fit...will trade favors or  [bacon]

if u can use mine...then u can...just take pics of bike for me [popcorn]

Ok.. I have the parts ..  Im going to pick it up in a little bit.. So if you would like to help I would love to have you over.. I was thinking beer and pizza.. :)

i believe wayne and stew are coming over at 7.....

can u get pizza cheese-less for stew and I  :P

I'll holler for directions later if Ashley doesn't have plans, already.......but I don't think she does.

I want to thank Wayne, Scott, and Stew for coming over and helping me put my bike back together with me. I truly cant thank you guys enough.. ;)

 

... Well.. Whats the verdict?  Other than the riding position did you get all the suspension bang for the buck that you'd hoped for?  Ride quality improve?

A small stack of Benjamin's would suffice dear friend.  [thumbsup]



(anytime buddy...  You'll find I'm one heck of a patient guy and awful helpful as well.)  ;)

 :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] [bacon] :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*




 [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto] [moto]

 [thumbsup]

Without quoting the previous thread....  That really makes me want to pack a backpack full of bacon and go riding!!

I want to spend a minute or two and thank STEW for coming out and helping us today with a little problem that turned big.. :) Thanks again for coming to help

Your an amazing guy and we are very blessed to have you.. And its not just stew our group here is amazing I just need to vocalize that.. I'M/WE blessed to have everyone here that we do..

Ok Im off my box.. thanks for listening..

M [thumbsup]

Twas' nuttin'.  You'd do the same brotha!  So glad we all made it home safe and it *seems* like the problem isn't serious or expensive.

One bottle of DOT4, a MiTvac brake bleeder, and some squeezing of some levers and we have freshly bled brakes and clutch.   Now if it wasn't raining I could actually ride around and make sure I did it right!  Firm levers and a pedal give me a fairly good sense of accomplishment.  Hope for dry weather tomorrow to go and try it out!  Stupid rain.

Can anyone help me take the wheels off my bike?  I got new tires to put on, but no tools or know how.

Thanks!

Which bike?  Single sided swing arm or double?  Do you have stands for both ends?

Enquiring minds want to know.

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc120/bonfygloria/100_2014.jpg)

You do it like this... well.. I do anyway.  Hang bike, Remove front calipers, remove front axle, remove pinch bolts, slide axle out, drop wheel.  Remove rear axle, lower tire and loop chain off of the sprocket at the same time your removing the brake caliper and bracket, then remove wheel.  Piece of cake.  More or less.   [thumbsup]
OH! and yes.. the 4lb indestructable sledge hammer is always a necessity.
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img086.jpg)

Sorry about that.  05 S2r Monster with single arm.  Nope no stands. :-(

I think my stands will work on your bike (they worked on Matt's Monster), but I don't have the socket to remove the nut that fastens the rear wheel.  Let me see if Duck Stew has one.  If so, we'll figure something out.

Are you just having new tires mounted, or is this for something more "in depth"?

 I have stands for anything if you need them. I am going to sell one of my Pitbulls if anyone here wants it for $70. It works on any dual sided bike, and all fronts with stand bobbins/spools installed.

OK....I've talked with Stuart and he says we should work out a time to meet at his shop Saturday.  He needs to get his socket back from Matt.  I'll bring my front stand, we'll use Stuart's rear stand, then we can dismount both wheels and you can go get shoes mounted, then bring 'em back for a remount.

Easy, huh?

What time sounds good?

Hey!!!!! i'm leaving town in 48 hours!!!! going 1700miles!!!!Where's my help thread??????
Putting the termi system on at the 11th hour....this system was an ebay coup d'etat!!!
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/formlarry/ducparty/IMG_9815.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/formlarry/ducparty/IMG_9814.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/formlarry/ducparty/IMG_9813.jpg)

........um i guess I'm a figurin it out but there are a couple a extra screws....hmmmmmmmm

Extra screws are a sign of a job well done as far as I'm concerned.   If everything is secure and tight, extra screws are for other projects down the road!   [thumbsup]  Termi's are looking good!

Sounds like a plan to me.  What time works for anybody?  I got a torque wrench and a breaker bar.  I just need to get my tires over to Stuart's shop. 

NO....you need to get the bike to Stuart's shop.  He doesnt' have the equimpent to mount/balance tires.  That's what Moto Authority of for.  8)

I handed Stuart my front stand this morning, so you should be ready to go.  You might send him a PM with a phone number so you two can chat about schedule.  I'll run over to help (read:  laugh) if it's convenient.

Nice Termis, Lorenzo.  I hear you got the KILLER deal on them too!   [thumbsup]  Have fun on your trip.  Keep the shiny side up.   [moto]

whatever time u guys choose i can bring the but to stews shop for ya..

It's on tomorrow!  My bike is getting new shoe's!  Thanks Cloner for the front stands. 

Anytime, NFJ.  It's Nick, right?

How did it go?  I saw Stuart today but I didn't think to ask him how the change went.  Happy with the new buns?   [moto]

Thanks again stewwwwww.. :)


Like Beeeeeeffff Sttteeewwww

NFJ got his new tires.

DucMouse got her shifter adjusted and a little A/F mod.

Plumber got his ride height rod 'bushed'.

My Triumph got it's tail tidied up.

Long weekend, but worth it IMO.

See some of y'all on Wednesday for the last 'push' for maintenance before we roll....  DucMouse will be posting up w/details shortly.

Matt's Arrows are ready for Ouray...not sure about these guys ;D


(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/zaster99/P1000022.jpg)

Mufflers?  Ready to go.

Those 3 clowns...  Er, not so much.








(but they're going anyways!)  [thumbsup]

:) 

My thread in tech.. :) All finished.. :) go look

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=41277.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=41277.0)

Correct.

It went pretty well.  Stuart taught me a lot of useful stuff.  I like these new tires.  The bike turns much easier then it did when i had the Pirelli Diablo's.

My luck with meeting up with you guys is horrid!

I jammed my middle finger on my clutch hand pretty good and unless it gets better by tomorrow AM I am going to have to pass which royally sucks!

I will let you guys know tonight if I can come or not.

 [bang] [bang] [bang]

 [evil] [evil] [evil]

Most intelligent decision I've made in a while: I gave the '97 M900 into the care of Stew. As my budget permits, he should be able to deal with its issues. I told him to use it as much as he wants- I think that's much better than leaving it in a shed for months at a time.

Not so much of a Duc-Mod.. but Duc Related none the less.  I "acquired" a receiver hitch assembly for our Jeep.. but I have no trailer, no trailer ball, etc.. so I figured the best thing I could use it for at this point was to show my support for Ducati. 
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/DSCN5956sm.jpg)

Note to anyone doing something new that they've never done before on their bikes.  If unsure, and 20 tons of pressure aren't working, Consult the service manual *before* pulling out the torch. 

Case in point:  Removing swingarm pivot bearings from my swingarm so that I can sandblast it clean.  Left side bearings came right out, easy as pie!  Left side, not so much.   After pressing and pressing and pressing, I thought, "Maybe some heat" so I proceeded to heat the swingarm (not to the point of melting or anything that extreme)  Next thing I knew my completely rigged pressing setup popped and came undone.  At this point instead of looking at the small little .pdf file pictures, I printed large pictures from the service manual.  Right side is not ONE large bearing, it is in fact two smaller bearings with a sleeve between them AND Shoulders milled into the swingarm behind them!!!!  One of my milled shoulders is now.. uhm.. Lets say its "Compressed" for lack of a better term. 

I put back two of the 4 bearings, and the sleeves that they utilize, the pivot still slides right through and works fairly well.  I believe with a new set of bearings my swing arm will be reusable with no significant problems. It turns out, torches are also good at ruining the seals on self contained bearings. 
 [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang]

Where the hell has Wayne been?  Haven't seen him on the last couple rides... ??  Well.. He's been doing "garage stuff" Yeah thats it.  First off, Lets start with "inspiration"

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/duc1black.jpg)

... I have a black bike...  And .. What if my frame and wheels were White??  That would look pretty killer I think.. So.. Here's the current state of the Duck.

Keep in mind, These are all crappy cell phone pictures.
The beginning: Build stand to lift front end up into the air:
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img259sm.jpg)

Next, We start tearing lots and lots of parts off:

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img260sm.jpg)

Cyborg??

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img261sm.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img277sm.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img278sm.jpg)

Swing arm torn apart, all holes plugged up to keep sandblasting sand out of the arm.  I'm going to blast off all of the black then SOS pad it for that nice "brushed" aluminum look.

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img279sm.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img288sm.jpg)

Duct tape, Pipe wrench, Triple clamp top nut comes right off!

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img290sm.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img291sm.jpg)

Frame off:

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img295sm.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img296sm.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img297sm.jpg)

Lay out the parts for artistic fun!

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/img298sm.jpg)

Plans for the exploded Duck include:  Powdercoating the frame and wheels white.  Brushed aluminum swingarm.  I'm still up in the air about the rear subframe:  Ducati Red? Brushed aluminum? Either would look pretty cool I think.  On a more practical note, I'm going to redegree the cams to the "updated" specs that Ducati has laid out for the 749S engines.  Also make sure the clearances are still close enough to live with for a while longer.
May be attempting another exhaust... a little QUIETER this time.  A nice lightweight lowmount 2 into 1 system.  Possibly wearing a Competition Werkes stainless can.

And so my winter project begins!  With a little (lot) of luck..  (and money) it will be ready to ride again in the spring time. I'll keep posted with updates as they happen!

Very ambitious, Wayne. Good luck.

First off, Measuring valves while the engine sits on the floor is MUCH easier than in the bike. Go figure.  I've checked all of my numbers, Most All of them are technically in spec.  Just want to run them passed the experts to see if there is anything I should be on the lookout for.

Max Permissible Spec as outlined by 2006 service manual:
.003" - .009" (converted from .01mm - .25mm)

Horizontal cylinder:
Intake 1
Opener: .003"
Closer:  .0075"
Intake 2
Opener: .003"
Closer:  .006"
Exhaust 1
Opener: .005"
Closer:  .004"
Exhaust 2
Opener: .005"
Closer:  .005"

Vertical cylinder:
Intake 1
Opener: .003"
Closer:  .0075"
Intake 2
Opener: .002"
Closer:  .006"
Exhaust 1
Opener: .005"
Closer:  .006"
Exhaust 2
Opener: .005"
Closer:  .005"


The only ones that stand out to me are the two Intake 1 Closers, and the Vertical Intake 2 Opener.   They're on the outer edge of the spec limits.  (technically the .002 is too tight and all my .003's are borderline)  So I'm just wondering if anyone has any words of wisdom they can offer.  At 40-50$ per shim I'm trying to hold off on adjusting anything unless I absolutely have to.

I'd love to swap shims with you, but if I'm not mistaken, your bike is one of those that has those "special" 6mm valve stems and I don't have any of those shims.  I also don't (at this point) have the special tools required to remove the tapered collets.  I've read some folks say that you can leave the piston at Bottom Dead Center so that you don't bend the valves whilst beating out the collets, but I have no personal experience with this, either.  

The "correct" method is to remove the heads from the bike and use a special support tool to remove the valves.  Maybe Zoob can do you a quickie if you just take him the heads....and most dealerships charge less for shims when they do the adjustment, as they just swap your old ones into thier inventory of shims.  That alone might cover the cost of labor, as the big time eater is removing the heads from the bike.  I'd be surprised if a head-off adjustment was more than two hours labor, so at $50 per shim (Man, that's expensive) it wouldn't take much to cover the labor if they only charge you half of retail for a shim swap (which is fairly common).

I've used tons of EMS shims in the past, but they don't currently make them for 6mm stems.  I know they've talked about it in the past, but no joy for now.  There are simply not enough bikes out there with your valve system to support tooling up for production....so I guess you're stuck with OE replacements.  That's harsh.

You might drop Mike at EMS a line and ask what his plans are for production.  At least he might think there's one more customer out there for them if he starts turning!

Good luck, in any case.

Thanks for the reply.. Yes I have the "better" but still somewhat obnoxious 6mm valve stems.  I did recheck my math on the metric conversion.. yeah The .003 was .0039 and I just didn't round up.  I have a few questions about your logic in your response...

Horizontal cylinder:
Intake 1
Opener: .003"  OK
Closer:  .0075"  OK for a two valver or "standard" four valver....I'd want to check for your valve system
Intake 2
Opener: .003" OK
Closer:  .006"  Adjust  Remember, closers typically wear looser.  This is LESS than Intake 1 closer that is "OK" ??
Exhaust 1
Opener: .005"  OK
Closer:  .004"  I'd Adjust this one
Exhaust 2
Opener: .005"  OK
Closer:  .005" I'd Adjust this one

Vertical cylinder:
Intake 1
Opener: .003"  OK
Closer:  .0075"  OK...as above
Intake 2
Opener: .002" A little snug, so I'd adjust it.  Remember, Openers tend to wear tighter, not looser!
Closer:  .006" Adjust  Again, Less than Intake 1, (Wears looser) and 1 is "ok" but 2 is "Adjust?"
Exhaust 1
Opener: .005"  OK  (Same as Exhaust 2.. which is a "DEFINITELY ADJUST"??)
Closer:  .006"  Adjust
Exhaust 2
Opener: .005"  DEFINITELY ADJUST...this is almost holding the valve open, and may actually be holding it open once things get hot. (Exact same measurement as same valve on other head.. which is "OK?")
Closer:  .005"  I'd adjust this one

I'm not trying to poke holes in your logic, just trying to understand.  A while back I asked Boulder Motorsports what they'd charge, they said $300 for a heads-off S model valve adjust. (again.. Stupid 6mm special tools!)  I'll have to talk to PJ's.. See how much R and S experience and shims they have under their belts and what they'd charge. 

I can't read, Wayne.  I saw .00075...note extra zero.  I guess the extra decimal threw me off.  You are correct that .0075 is too loose for a closer.

Ditto the "definitely adjust" opener....I saw .0005 (less than a thou), which is far too tight.  Blindness sucks.

Math, though, is another issue.  .1mm would be about .004", but .01 mm is .0004.  In your initial post you said .01mm...with a zero between the decimal and the one.

You should have different specs for openers and closers.

If you have the Green Canuder Valves, all rules are out the window.


 ..."Who's on first?" 


  ;) 

Ahh Blindness explains all..  ;D  Thanks for the clarification. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything.  Service manual says:

Opening Arm:
Intake
Nominal .2 mm (.0078")
Operation: .18 mm - .23 mm (.0070" - .0090")
Check: .10 mm - .25mm (.0039" - .0098")
Exhaust:
(All the same as Intake)

Closing Arm:
Intake
Nominal .15 mm
Operation .13 mm - .18 mm
Check .10 mm - .25 mm
And.. as above.. Exhaust are listed at the exact same values.

Ducati.ms's "Hall of Wisdom" has a post on Revised Testastretta valve clearances of ".002” for closers and .005” for openers" 
Then someone else posted "i think the .002-.005 are the numbers to strive for when doing your clearance's.ducatis origial specs had a pretty big range that was great for not needing adjustments ,but flawed for optimum performance"

So hell I dont know..  I guess I'll start getting on my phone and seeing what kind of cash I'll be looking at for an "optimal" valve setup.  Then once I get that set, I can setup the cam timing.  Back to ye ole drawing board!

My Canuder valves are blue... I think I gotta stick to the book on this one.   [beer]

No comment  [laugh]   [beer]

Not knowing anything about the shim's makeup or shape, would it be possible to hone or grind them to the
desired thickness without compromising it's structural integrity or shape  ???

I've heard it's possible to sand down the opener shims to gain the desired clearance.. The closer's I'm not too sure about. (Although I'm not sure why not?)  The main problem I'd have is the fact that once I "break" the closer's off, I don't have the tool required to "press?" them back onto their taper locks.   [thumbsdown]  Whether this taper lock system is better than the half-ring system used on the "normal" engines.. to me at least.. has yet to be determined.  Its a Duc.. So I guess like everything else, You gotta pay to play!   [bang]

The taper system HAS to be better than the half-ring system. 

It's not uncommon for mechanics to work intake and exhaust valves with the same spec in a Desmo, but as you wrote, openers and closers have always had different specs for Desmos.

I've typically worked against "ideal" settings, but part of that may be because I remember when Ducati used MUCH more stringent specs for valves.  Today, they have a check every 12k.  When I first bought a Duc it was every 3k.  The biggest difference I can see is that the specs that Ducati publishes are just MUCH broader.....like more than double what was allowable 15 years ago.  Some of that may be due to better machining and/or materials (like valve seats), but I'll bet they're simply relying on the "helper" springs to maintain seat pressure on the closers more.  At that point, why not get rid of Desmo altogether? 

I'm sure the bike will run well as long as the valves are within the published "check" specs.  That means you probably don't need to do anything except adjust those .002 and .003 openers that are tighter than allowable.  They're outside of the published spec to the "tight" side...and openers are easier to replace as you don't have to displace the collets.

Ducati doesn't want to replace anybody's engine under warranty, so I'm sure they've invested significant time and effort to establish the current specs.  Your valve train has the loosest specs I've seen, and that, too, may be due to your unique valve train.  Heck....ask Zoob.  He's had more experience adjusting those type of valve trains than anyone else in the local area and I'm sure he wouldn't steer you wrong.

I'll run my #'s over to PJ's tomorrow after work and see what they have to say.  If I tell em Scott sent me, or Stu send me.. They mark up the price 2x right?  ;)  Just want to make sure and not let TOO much info slip  ;D

Nothing to hide, so tell 'em as much as you like.  The truth always works best!

We work with PJ's, not against 'em.   ;)

S

Found this while bored at work searching other forums. 
Comparison on K&N Vs OEM Ducati oil filters:

http://www.tpoparts.com/articles/oilfiltercompare.html (http://www.tpoparts.com/articles/oilfiltercompare.html)

Informative stuff right here!  Sounds like people can save some $$$ and take better care of their engines at the same time!

Good article, Wayne.
The only OEM's I have ran on my 749's, 999's & 1098's were the ones that came on the bikes. They have actually had a matching filter for a while, but, not advertised as a match.  The Mobil 1 rep turned me onto K&N oil filters about 15yrs ago, I never looked back. And at that time were very hard to find & pricey. 

Project update:
Open heart surgery begins: (Translation: Baby is asleep and I had 30 minutes to myself)

Decided to get valve's adjusted before I set cam timing. Reason being, This way the heads are on, the belts are tensioned and everything is "Settled" when I set up the cam timing.  They're going to be sent to Colorado to Fox Performance.  I've heard many great things about his work and he quoted a pretty darn good price!

Engine decapitation:

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0212.JPG)

To my dearest cylinder barrels, Please don't break your seal up to the crankcase.  I would truly appreciate it.

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0213.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0214.JPG)

Testastretta cam's

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0215.JPG)

Somewhat of a closeup of those damn taper lock collets that (under most circumstances) necessitate head removal for adjustment.

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0216.JPG)

Going to try and get everything cleaned up, packaged up, and sent out this week so hopefully I can at least get the engine put back together before too long. Then onto other aspects of the project. 

So i made a purchase...  :)


(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Bobbysdaman/Monster%20Partout/IMG_8652.jpg)

Give me some time and I can help you get all of that pesky black paint off of it for you!   ;D

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0080.JPG)
Still got a bit of touchup to do..
That'll look good on your bike man!  Hope it doesnt take anywhere near as long as mine has been taking!

WOW.. :)  I scored it off Flee bay for 299 shipped.. :)  I think that is a sweet  deal the coat alone is 100 bucks.. :)

Dang thats not a bad deal at all! Are all of the bearings and seals in it, or will they need transferred over?

SBK swingarms have bearings in them, Monsters have them in the cases...

For those who aren't on my speed dial TXT/PIX list.. here's some updated pics!!!  Moving right along...
My apologies if the pics show up huge.  I hope they auto-rescale for everyone.
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0159.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0163.JPG)

This is the new muffler that'll be set up low mount and on the right side 2 into 1.

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0157.JPG)

WOW!

looks amazing wayne! I can't wait to see it when its all put back together  [beer]

   Looks like a very nice start on the project!  [thumbsup] Keep Us posted on the progress please...

After one day of work here's where she sits!

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0544.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0546.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0548.JPG)

Exhuast fab still to come.  That and I need to borrow a chain tool to reinstall my master link. 

I'm in awe.

Crazy, Wayne. Looks great!!

 [thumbsup] Looks awesome...I miss my 999! :-[

Some guy at PJ's (didn't get a name. Looked like a tech, but was at the SVC counter).. Just informed me that the idle speed couldn't be adjusted on my bike.  Then told me the ECU couldn't be adjusted.  Then told me that if I adjusted the throttle bodies to raise the idle speed, my oxygen sensors wouldn't read correctly.  I'm STILL in shock.  Bike has no O2 sensors, ECU can adjust low rpm/idle fuel trim, and YES the idle can be adjusted.  /Rant Off

Just a couple loose ends to tie up at this point.  The biggest one is going to be the exhaust.  Some OE 1098 pipes I thought were going to work turned out to be not exactly what I was after.. so I'm going to have to get some stainless tubing and start one from scratch.  Here's what today brought:
.. Oh and it RUNS AGAIN!!! 

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0552.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0554.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0556.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0558.JPG)

Its more or less how I'm gonna have the exhaust set up.. minus the red bunjee cord.  Krystle suggested I use Duc-Tape instead.

(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0550l.jpg)

 [drool]

Ok! just let me know when you ready for me to come over and get it so I can ride it for ya

Let me know when you get them platform shoes and we'll talk...

While I'm waiting for my fork seals to arrive.. I've been busy messing with the junk in my garage.  MIG tacking everything up for now.  Then TIG finishing once its all set up.
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0694.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0698.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0703.JPG)

After figuring out the 2 into 1 junction, It'll end up coming out into this:
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0550l.jpg)

And we got something for the little man: (assuming Comcast lets the image show up)
(http://home.comcast.net/~hotrod408dodge/IMG_0638.JPG)

Anyone know something about power commanders? I got a PC III USB on my bike, It was disconnected from the ECU, basically just plugged into itself, so I hooked it back up and I found a USB cable that fits it, however when I connect it to my laptop the PC software says device not communicating. My guess is that it needs the firmware updated. However, I'm having trouble updating the firmware. Help?

I'm no expert with PC stuff, but if you just want help staring at it you can drag it over and we'll learn together.  No charge, of course.  I need to learn a bit more about those doggone things, anyway.   [thumbsup]

See this thread on the WERA (Western Eastern Roadracer's Association) forums for a good start:

http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=164511 (http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=164511)

Yeah, I can bring it over some time. I'll bring my netbook with the software and maps too. I'd like to wait until I get the 9 volt adapter first, to see if maybe the firmware issue will be resolved once it isn't powered off the bike.

Edit: Reading a bit, it's likely that I need a reprogrammer box for the Power Commander III USB. One is needed if the firmware is too old, or someone accidentally installed the wrong firmware. Unfortunately I'm not finding one being sold separately. So if anyone has one from their Power Commander, that'd be awesome.  ;D

Or, it looks like any authorized tuning center (there or several in town) can flash it for you, or you can send it to Dynojet Research and they'll flash it for you at no charge.  Want me to call PJ's to see if they have the stuff to flash it?  I'm pretty sure they're a tuning center, even though I don't see them listed on the DJR website.

By flash do you mean reprogram it with current firmware? If so that'll be hell of a lot easier.

Yarp.  That's what I mean.   [thumbsup]

Went in to PJ's today, they couldn't help me. Gonna try R&S Yamaha, since it's close to my apt and is listed on the Power Commander website as being an official tuning center. I guess if they can't do it, I'll wait to get the 9v adapter see if I can get the firmware to upload, and if not, just send it in to PC.

Edit: No luck.  :(

Well, that sucks!  Wonder why PC says "take it to a tuning center", but the tuning centers say "send it to PC."  Seems like a poor way to do business.

Maybe PJ's was just confused because all I wanted was to get it flashed. I wonder if it's something they'd do automatically if I had them load a custom map onto it. I should have asked what it would cost to get the bike up on the dyno and get the PC programmed.

i think around 300 for it all...thats what it would be when i was thinking of having them install mine and dyno it...

Did you do it yourself then, Mouse?

Good news, I feel like a moron now, though.  :-\

I talked to a rep at DynoJet, and explained what was going on. He said I'd either need a 9 volt battery attached to the PC or I'd need it powered by the bike. I told him the bike wasn't powering it and he suggested I start the engine. D'oh! I thought it'd be enough with just the bike on, but apparently the engine needs to be running for enough power to go through the PC for my computer to recognize it. There was indeed a custom map for my Remus pipes loaded on there, but I'm fooling around with some other maps to figure out what will work best.

Edit: Anyone know something about disabling the engine kill when the kickstand is down? It won't stay on in neutral which is something really useful I'd like it be able to do.

I am not a happy camper tonight.  Got this on my way home.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v426/NFJ79/2011-07-07_21-54-14_669.jpg)

On the bright side, you GOT home!  Daddy needs a new rear shoe.   :o

Now, who would know how to disable that doggone switch?  Hmmmmm.   ;D

Do you just want to disable it temporarily while you work (just hold the plunger down with a zip tie to do that),  or permanently (solder the leads together or I think I remember someone offering a plug that replaces the wiring from the harness to the switch that shorts the circuit where the switch is supposed to be).

Glad you got things sorted!

Looks like their's a switch that gets depressed when the kickstand is down, meaning it'd be pretty pointless to depress it with a zip tie. They asked me if I wanted it disabled at PJ's like it was no big thing...

I think I recall buying a kit from Monster Parts that included a plug and the requisite leads so that the neutral light still worked. This is for the '01 M900. Here in the Northeast, in the cooler weather, it's a convenience to let the bike warm up while it's on the side stand rather than sit on it with the stand up.

I'll check that out, same bike as mine, then.

Hmmm...replace my rear tire(Shinko Raven) for $120 or order a new set of Pirelli Diablo SuperSports from cyclegear for $189 plus tax.  What shall i do?

I was thinking about getting Pirelli Diablo tires when I had to replace my tires a bit ago. Heard nothing but good stuff about them. I'm sure the Supersport tires are way different than the standard Diablo tires, but whatever, wanted to say something.  [cheeky]

You ought to see what kind of deal Steve at MotoAuthority will offer you on whatever tires you want.  He's been giving REALLY good prices for tires, lately, and you get to support a local business!   [thumbsup]

I'm on a budget so i got the Shinko.  Been happy with them.  Next set I'll go thru Steve. [thumbsup]

After I had them install my last wet of tires, Steve said he would beat any price for tires, internet or otherwise.  Thought you might like to know.

BTW I really like my diablo angels.  I needed the mileage, but they have been very sticky too.

Steve sells that same Pirelli for $180 for the pair. I just ordered a pair of Michelin Pilot Powers for $193, shipped free from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. I am excited about the new rubber.

I blindly throw money at anything Steve mentions.  Good thing he hasn't mentioned hookers and drugs to me...

I guess I need to have a talk with Steve..... [evil]

I have a tire machine.  ;D

Few of you know that I picked up a track bike on my way back from DITR this year...While figuring out few of its ailments, I discovered a rather unusual (for me!) Dzus fastener that was missing on the damaged fairing...I spent a few days trying to discover this type online as I was only familiar with the standard clip type Dzus. I learnt about rivet types and this particular one referred to as Dzus Pro or D-ring type:
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/joel_jacob/DzusPro_zpsc81d8cc6.jpg)

I found a referred website to get few of these Dzus fasteners pretty reasonably priced, including for the 1098 (not so cheap):
http://kurveygirl.com/shop/index.php?cPath=104&osCsid=5c29e31d299b166ff993b6dbebf0e6b9 (http://kurveygirl.com/shop/index.php?cPath=104&osCsid=5c29e31d299b166ff993b6dbebf0e6b9)

As received and loaded in NM to FL:
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/joel_jacob/20130812_183918_zpscfbf3b47.jpg)

Here's where the bike is with new levers, frame sliders fixed, new Renthal grips and end bars. I'm on the work fixing the dent on tank and doing fiberglass work on fairings. It now rides well! More later, hopefully with some trackday pics...
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/joel_jacob/20130908_1416571280x720_zps08493be3.jpg)

Nice work, JJ.  I'll be down for my complimentary track day shortly.  ;)