Ducati Monster Forum

These connectors are used all over my monster, for all sorts of things.

Here's what they look like in the flesh:

(http://www.tme.eu/html/gfx/ramka_1204.jpg)

They're a pretty good connector, as automotive connectors go.  Looks like anything that's sourced from Bosch, or designed to be plug and play with Bosch stuff has to use these connectors.  Of course then Ducati use some pretty awful connectors (I'm thinking specifically those dreadful bullets) on other stuff.

In any case, I've found a local source of AMP superseal connectors, in all the flavours from 1 to 6 way, at (relatively) low price.

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=superseal&x=0&y=0 (http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=superseal&x=0&y=0)

I thought I'd post the link here in case people are looking for them.

Altho there has been a lot of talk about these AMD connectors I haven't discovered any DIYer who has successfully used them. I would love to replace several of mine, PO/s have made them look very shabby, esp. around the headlight area where they are highly visible.

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=28574.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=28574.0)

I used them when I re-wired my 1986 Cagiva Alazzurra.  Built a whole new loom and replaced all the factory Mylex crap with the superseal type.  I split the loom into 3 component pieces and used superseals for it -- now i can remove the wiring from the bike without much effort.

if you plan to use them, make sure to get the tool

Yeah - that may be an issue.  I have access to tooling for many AMP and Molex connectors, though not anything specifically for these ones - with luck though I'll get reliable crimps with tools for other series.

It is a barrel sort of thing that turns the fork bits into the wire and makes a solid connection that is very hard to pull out. 

There is also a disassembly tool which is just as necessary if you munge up the connections.  I used it more than the crimper.. ugh

I don't recall that the crimper is anything special, at least from looking at the OEM stuff.

But I don't use a crimp to do anything but hold the wire while I solder it.
I hate chasing down connector/connection gremlins....

But wait, there's more!

Mouser also do the Superseal connectors:

http://au.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=superseal (http://au.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=superseal)

And a bonus.  Here's the connector that goes into the back of the instruments - it's a 26 pin AMP Superseal 1.0mm.  It's available from Mouser, along with crimp terminals.

(http://au.mouser.com/images/tyco/lrg/pr1437290.jpg)

Housing:

http://au.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=MvPdH6bTHug3KT6%252boOdaYA%3d%3d (http://au.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=MvPdH6bTHug3KT6%252boOdaYA%3d%3d)

Crimp terminals:

http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics-AMP/3-1447221-3/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKtzyQUYtp7%252bOPrZm1IdsDGU= (http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics-AMP/3-1447221-3/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKtzyQUYtp7%252bOPrZm1IdsDGU=)

I bought a bag each of 2 and 4 way plugs/sockets, plus crimp terminals today.  Alas I forgot to order the little sealing grommets.  They go together fairly easily - you can disengage the terminals from the body using a fine jewellers screwdriver, and crimp tooling for utilux connectors (used for example in computer power supply cabling) works fine.

i use my normal wurth crimping pliers for them.  the connectors themselves are quite easy to use.  you crimp the yellow (or red) wire seal into the terminal too, that way it all stays together.

wurth sell tools for them as they supply these connectors too.  there's a little L hook tool to fish the red inserts out that is very useful - you really need that for disassembly, but you can make it from a piece of wire flattened with a hammer and bent.

i generally don't solder anything these days, as i've been told that soldering theings on bikes is bad due to the vibration.  not sure if i believe it or not, but the crimp only does work well ime.

poor soldering can/will create a high resistance connection and fail, the vibes just accelerate the inevitable, if you're competent with a soldering iron (which i'm guessing you are) they're the best most reliable connections. crimps are ok, but really, they're only as good as the moisture barrier.

paul.

I have done both crimping and soldering on bikes I've restored or modified and haven't had problem with either.  Using a crimping tool  and sealing the connection with shrink or similar works very well.

Solder has gotten lower quality in the last 10 years or so though.  No more lead flux.. Which is good for one's health but not good for soldering..

Blimey the wiring on my bike is a mess.

I cleaned up some of the wiring behind the headlight last night, replacing the bullet connectors for the clutch and brake lever switches with superseal ones, putting a four pin connector on for the right hand switch assembly (more compact than the enormous eight pin stock one), properly sealing things with glue-filled heatshrink, and shortening some of the excessively long wires.

It was a good thing I did, too, as a couple of the wires to the starter switch and right hand indicator had been all but cut through by an excessively tight cable tie.

Suzy, do you offer your re-wiring services to fellow Ozmos at a discounted rate? ;D

Ummm...  I guess I'm happy to help people out, but this isn't my work.  I play with my bike for fun.

 [laugh] Not yet! I'm just stirrin'.


... and its more fun for me if someone else does it.