Ducati Monster Forum

Moto Board => Accessories & Mods => Topic started by: rozer on July 28, 2011, 09:02:22 AM



Title: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: rozer on July 28, 2011, 09:02:22 AM

Because I dislike the aesthetics of the flapper beneath the seat of my M1100 I recently sourced a 696 midpipe. There are quite a few topics regarding the replacement of the midpipe.I think I've read them all but still have some questions regardig this mod.

1. Is it difficult to get to all the bolts 'n bits? Does it require to loosen the bolts on the cylinder-side of the headers to disconnect the midpipe?
2. I'm considering to order a duc.ee @ motocreations. Being in Europe, delivery time is 6-10 days. In the meantime can I just disconnect the cable connected from the servo to the flapper?
3. This part is being offered @ desmoworld: http://www.desmoworld.com/shop/de/anschlagblech-klappenmotor.html (http://www.desmoworld.com/shop/de/anschlagblech-klappenmotor.html) What does it do?
4. Is it possible to get rid of the servo and ignore the error-message on the dash? Or will it result in me spinning of the road in a big ball of fire?  :)

Please excuse me for posting questions of which the anwsers might allready be in one of the other topics. If so, please point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for all your help.


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: northerncalguy on July 28, 2011, 09:23:40 AM
1) No. Possibly, the fittings for the pipes are very tight (not that much clearance) so you may need to undo bolts to get leverage to wiggle out that midpipe.

2) You can, but you'd have to live with a engine error code on the dash until you get the duc.ee. You can technically leave everything connected but the wire that goes the flapper and tuck it under the seat until you get your duc.ee.

3) No idea. General rule: if you don't know what it does, don't touch it :)

4) See (2).


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: rozer on July 28, 2011, 11:03:41 AM
Thank you for anwsering all my questions northerncalguy!  [thumbsup] 

Something is still unclear to me;
How does the servo "know" that the cable is detached from the flapper.
What kind of voodoo-magic is at work here?!
Has it anything to do with the resistance the flapper spring offers?


3.My German is a bit rusty but what I understand from the desmoworld website this part prevents the errormessage from popping up.


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: xplodee on July 28, 2011, 11:40:05 AM
If you give up and decide to sell the midpipe, let me know!  [thumbsup]


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: Raux on July 28, 2011, 11:47:13 AM
where are you at?


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: xplodee on July 28, 2011, 11:59:50 AM
where are you at?

Me or OP?


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: rozer on July 28, 2011, 12:06:40 PM
@xplodee: Ha! I will try to stick to it and figure this thing out. Just got the thing from a local ebay-esk website for cheap.

@raux: I'm from Holland (aka The Netherlands  :) ). Introduced myself in the introduce yourself section yesterday. 


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: Raux on July 28, 2011, 12:16:15 PM
@xplodee: Ha! I will try to stick to it and figure this thing out. Just got the thing from a local ebay-esk website for cheap.

@raux: I'm from Holland (aka The Netherlands  :) ). Introduced myself in the introduce yourself section yesterday. 
Mark said it would take that long for the Duc.EE to come in?


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: rozer on July 28, 2011, 12:24:11 PM
On the motocreations website a 6-10 days delivery time for International Shipping is stated. Am I wrong to asume this is relevant for shipment to Holland?


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: Raux on July 28, 2011, 12:32:54 PM
On the motocreations website a 6-10 days delivery time for International Shipping is stated. Am I wrong to asume this is relevant for shipment to Holland?

i suppose. guess i never realized how long stuff takes to get here


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: rozer on July 28, 2011, 12:47:53 PM

Yeah, why didn't some Italian based company figured this thing out?
Are the Americans more creative when it comes to modding exhausts (e.g. boomtubes)?

Mhhh... somehow the exhaust on your bike tells this exact story too, Raux.
Love what you did to your bike. Sounds awesome!


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: Raux on July 28, 2011, 12:56:45 PM
Yeah, why didn't some Italian based company figured this thing out?
Are the Americans more creative when it comes to modding exhausts (e.g. boomtubes)?

Mhhh... somehow the exhaust on your bike tells this exact story too, Raux.
Love what you did to your bike. Sounds awesome!

thanks. and yes, there are some pretty innovative people in America, well those that want to work ;)

but I've seen some stuff out of Italy that's awesome too, just got to be able to read their sites


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: rozer on May 16, 2012, 12:14:38 PM
Finally got around to replacing the mid section of the exhaust with the 696 item:

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7089/7211365338_b263ccc1e2.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7211365338/)
DSC_4865 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7211365338/#)

When idling, the exhaust note does sound a little deeper than before.
There also seems a difference in volume on the move.
I know there shouldn't be... but it does seem a bit louder.

If anyone is interested I can do a write-up of the process on replacing the mid-pipe.



Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: ungeheuer on May 16, 2012, 02:44:18 PM
So are you running with or without Duc.EE?

Something is still unclear to me;
How does the servo "know" that the cable is detached from the flapper.
What kind of voodoo-magic is at work here?!
Has it anything to do with the resistance the flapper spring offers?
Here's an explanation from one of Duc.EE's developers (he's actually talking about why you may experience a one-time CEL after first installing a new Duc.ee, but the reasoning for the error when the cable from the servo motor to the flappergate is removed remains as described below):
We believe the stock cable tension on each individual bike has something to do with this. It tends to act as a "mechanical memory" that will move/set the stock encoder(flapper) to a fixed known position on its dynamic range.  When you install a "virgin" Duc.EE and power up for the very first time, your bike will wake up expecting to read the last know postion based on the tension the cable was pulling/pushing on the stock encoder to what it has in memory.  But now that you have gone and removed the stock cable/flapper setup and replaced it with a Duc.EE the default position Duc.EE will report to the ECU may not be in the window of what the ECU was expecting. The majority of the time the ECU will over look this and do a new homing sequence. On the rare occasion, during installation, it ends up swearing at you. If that is the case, like Mark pointed out, just switch off the bike and back on again to allow the ECU to relearn the new(Duc.EE's) position. You are then good to go. You will never experience this again.

You have probably seen this, but in case not, here's my own Duc.ee/696 midpipe experience:

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=28586.msg605226#msg605226 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=28586.msg605226#msg605226)


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: R0CKETMAN on May 17, 2012, 02:53:27 AM
Finally got around to replacing the mid section of the exhaust with the 696 item:

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7089/7211365338_b263ccc1e2.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7211365338/)
DSC_4865 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7211365338/#)

When idling, the exhaust note does sound a little deeper than before.
There also seems a difference in volume on the move.
I know there shouldn't be... but it does seem a bit louder.

If anyone is interested I can do a write-up of the process on replacing the mid-pipe.



Thanks. Any other noticeable differences? I'd need "write up" IF only I could find a 696 mid pipe.



So are you running with or without Duc.EE?
Here's an explanation from one of Duc.EE's developers (he's actually talking about why you may experience a one-time CEL after first installing a new Duc.ee, but the reasoning for the error when the cable from the servo motor to the flappergate is removed remains as described below):
You have probably seen this, but in case not, here's my own Duc.ee/696 midpipe experience:

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=28586.msg605226#msg605226 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=28586.msg605226#msg605226)


Thanks Ung


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: stopintime on May 17, 2012, 07:17:46 AM
The DesmoWorld piece allows the servo motor to operate as it normally does, but without actually turning/closing the valve. That means no check engine light. If you have the Duc.ee there is no need for it.


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: Duc796canada on May 23, 2012, 09:28:44 PM
if anyone has a 696 mid pipe they want to get rid of, let me know as well :)


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: Raux on May 24, 2012, 03:01:09 AM
if anyone has a 696 mid pipe they want to get rid of, let me know as well :)

 [laugh]


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: chaldoking on May 24, 2012, 06:49:58 AM
Hey razor how much did you pay for your 696 mid pipe?


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: rozer on May 26, 2012, 10:00:45 PM
As promised here's a little write-up on replacing the midsection of the exhaust.
First let me excuse if I use incorrect technical terminology or describe certain things incorrectly.
My native language isn't English and don't know all the technical terms for some of the parts.
Please feel free to add comments or correct me when needed.


Step 1:
Remove the box that holds the toolkit that sits underneath the seat.

Step 2:
Disconnect and remove the servo cable and servo.
There is a washer that needs to be removed underneath the rubber dust cover.
It can be seen on the lefthand side of this picture:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7100/7277210672_15d7a95313.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7277210672/)
DSC_4842 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7277210672/#) 

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7231/7277209566_c69532a0ea.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7277209566/)
DSC_4849 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7277209566/#)

Step 3:
Remove the (slip-on) mufflers.

Step 4:
Loosen top bracket by removing the 4 hex bolts on the left- and righthand side of the subframe.
Also remove the center hex bolt which connect the gas tank to the bracket.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7213/7277207820_dc1ce87ffa.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7277207820/)
DSC_4858 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7277207820/#)

Step 5:
Undo the hex bolts located underneath the gas tank.
These connect the subframe bracket to the bracket on the exhaust.
They were the only bolts which were a little fitly to get to.
I used the grip of a screwdriver to force the tank some 3-4 centimeters off the bracket.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7237/7277207014_c735f08413.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7277207014/)
DSC_4860 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7277207014/#)

Step 6:
Loosen up the exhaust clamps situated to the right of the servo and behind the rear set.
There is also a hex bolt hidden away behind the rear set that needs to be removed.
I've also unfastened the header (cylinder side) of the vertical cylinder.

Step 7:
You should be able to remove the midsection of the exhaust and end up with this:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8149/7277206108_3eabd17c1a.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7277206108/)
DSC_4862 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7277206108/#)

Step 8:
Placing the 696 midsection should be reverse of removing the 1100 midsection.
I've test fitted the exhaust with mufflers without fastening all bolts.
My Arrow slip-ons have a tendency to line up wonky when installed with all bolts already fastened.

Step 9:
I've sourced a Duc.ee to eliminate the error message on the dash.
It can be held into place by the tie-rips that come with the duc.ee.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8016/7277205178_fe42fdd399.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7277205178/)
DSC_4864 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/7277205178/#)

I hope this write-up is helpful to all of you who want to remove the flapper from your 1100/796.
Note that some of the steps are interchangeable (like steps 5 and 6).
If you have any question I'll try to answer them promptly.
Cheers.  [beer]




Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: rozer on May 26, 2012, 10:04:57 PM
Hey razor how much did you pay for your 696 mid pipe?

I've sourced the mid pipe from a local fleebayesque site for 75.00 EURO which amounts to 100.00 US(?).


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: Raux on May 26, 2012, 11:11:05 PM
you got a steal


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: R0CKETMAN on May 27, 2012, 04:44:31 PM
Great write up Rozer. I'll use it as a reference when I locate one. Thanks


Title: Re: 696 midpipe on 1100.
Post by: User24 on November 10, 2017, 11:21:03 AM
Did this today on an 1100 standard. Yes, it took this long to find a used 696 midpipe.

Special tools needed: 4mm stubby allen (for the hidden bolt behind the rearset). Without it, you will have to dissasemble the rearset/bracket.

Tips:

-When purchasing a used 696 midpipe, verify whether it includes 2 of the 74640081A "Special nut". These can fall out, so order those ahead of time if needed prior to the install, or you will have to steal them from the outgoing midpipe.

-I left the vertical cylinder exhaust flange alone, merely removed the nuts on the horizontal cylinder exhaust flange to drop it for clearance. Once that is completed, the original midpipe can be rotated to the right of the frame and lifted out.

-Symmetry of mufflers is possibly hit or miss depending on manufacturing tolerances. On mine, the right muffler with slipon termi sits closer to the license plate. I don't really care, and looking at my 696 with the mivv suono it is the same way. I suppose it is possible to shift the slip joints and fiddle around to get them closer to perfect, if you were inclined.


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