Ducati Monster Forum

Step 1: Loosen the 2 bolts of swing arm and loosen chain fully with the chain adjustment tool
Step 2: Remove the small plastic front sprocket cover
Step 3: Remove Clutch Slave Cylinder
Step 4: Remove Gear change control lever and connecting rod and let them hang down from the gear shift lever end
Step 5: Remove Left side rear frame
Step 6: Loosen 2 bolts holding the front sprocket
Step 7: Swivel and remove the sprocket retainer plate
Step 8: Slide out the sprocket with chain

While refitting, make sure you apply some medium strength loctite solution to the 2 bolts before you screwn in the retainer plate and sprocket
Also, make sure you tighten the other bolts, including the swing arm one with a torque wrench set at the right values

(http://www.ebizgc.com/ska/Sprocketremoval1.jpg)
(http://www.ebizgc.com/ska/Sprocketremoval2.jpg)
(http://www.ebizgc.com/ska/Sprocketremoval3.jpg)

Hope this post helps somebody. I struggled to get help from any forum to change the front sprocket.

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=510.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=510.0)

almost identical to yours. Help improve it by snapping pics next time!

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=109.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=109.0)

If you manage to upload - post the whole thing in Tutorials as well [thumbsup]

Thanks for posting. I was thinking about doing the same thing, but have not looked at the process.
I was hoping that loosen the chain, remove the slave cylinder and chain cover would be enough.

What's step 5  ???

Now I have posted pictures. It should all be very clear. Let me know if you still have trouble.

Ok - step 5 is about removing rearsets/foot peg assembly.

Question, after step 3, do you think that there is enough chain slack to get the chain off the front sprocket and then get the sprocket out without going to step 5? Or, get the chain off the rear sprocket first and then the front?
Sorry, new owner here.

not enough on the S2R1000. its the 525 chain wont offset that much

Trust me, there is really no other better or easier way to do this. You have to follow all  steps mentioned. Without removing foot peg frame, chain has no slack to allow you to slide out the sprocket. Removing rear sprocket will not help slacken front sprocket. Removing a link in chain and then relinking it is a dangerous option, if relinking is not done right, considering that you can drive the monsters in speeds exceeding 220 km/hr

i'm confused about the rearset removing. what does it have to do with chain slack?

The rearset frame is bang in the middle when you try to slide out the sprocket. So, you have to remove it, to be able to slide out the sprocket.

I guess that you could always try getting the chain off the rear and then the front first. If that is not possible, then remove the foot peg holder plate  per step 5.  [beer]

There is not enough slack to remove the chain from the rear sprocket, even after loosening it all the way. After much trial and error, I have arrived at the multi step process listed, and in my opinion, it is the path of least resistance :)

Thanks for posting the pictures and the steps. It certainly gave me a clear idea if what I'd be facing...

ok so if you take the chain off the rear sprocket and then the front sprocket it doesn't work?

Have read the instructions posted in 2012.  Luckily I have already changed the rearset holder for a rizoma one so it it is not in the way.  Not at all mechanically inclined (OK I'm a girl)  but sprocket needs replacing so going for a 14T one.  I have removed the sprocket cover to clean out gunk and also tightened the chain so I know how that part works, was wondering tho' do you have to remove the clutch slave cylinder and gear part just for access or is there some other reason?

You need to remove the clutch slave cylinder to be able to remove the chain. otherwise, you cant. Been there, done that!

I'm going to change the front to a 14T because everyone seems to love this mod but I have a question. I read on another post that the tightening torque for the bolts holding in the sprocket retaining plate is an absurdly low 4ft lbs 6nm. Is this correct??? It seems very low for one of the hardest stressed parts of the entire bike.
Thanks!

That's what the work shop manual says. "LOCK 1" which means normal locktite, I think.

they get tighter with time . . .but, those values are correct and Blue Loctite if you are using Loctite brand if not, then medium . . .

The retainer plate doesn't really see any direct force exerted against it, it just keeps the sprocket on the shaft.  ...but don't forget the Loctite!

Do you have the torque wrench that reads in in-lb. ?

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=71572.msg1323828#msg1323828

If you don't have one, and you are planning to work on motorcycles and cars, I'd recommend to buy a good one.
(Because you will use it more than you would think.)

Snap On digital torque meter I showed in the linked post above is probably the best torque wrench for the beginners, because

1)You can very easily monitor the tightening torque increase, by digital read out AND LED indicator light bar.

2)Therefore, it will help you to develop the "feel" (of how much torque is being applied.)

3)It will beep AND vibrate when getting close to the set torque value (early warning system), so that you won't turn the wrench too quickly (common mistake) and over tighten the fastner.

4)When doing 1-2-1 sequence (on the front fork pinch bolt, for example), it is very easy to do 2 or 3 steps tightening.
(You don't want to tighten one bolt with 100% of tightening torque and move onto the next one. You do 1-2-1 sequence with 50% of the torque, then, tighten them in 1-2-1 with 75% of the torque, then, with 100% of the torque.)

The only downside is the cost. It's probably (way) more than most people are willing to pay.

If your on tight budget, those beam type are better than cheap clickers.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TW-1-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000NVCI1U

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-2955D-Beam-Torque-Wrench/dp/B00004SQ3B

(Gearwrench 2955D is the same as Park TW-1, just rebranded. They are discontinued as of 2106.)