Ducati Monster Forum

My bike idles around 900 warm but is fairly steady. Around 3k it starts to hesitate and bog down. If I rev past it I seem to hit a wall again around 6k.

It is an 800ss in the monster 620 frame. (Recent swap.) It has open airbox, silmoto slipons, and a dp ecu reflash for the larger engine. It MAY have had this issue before, but with the other more noisy issues with my 620 engine, I couldn't ride to verify. I did however, do a lot of fuel tank swapping because of leaks.

I've changed the fuel filter and spark plugs. Pump primes, doesn't stall once warmed up. Fuel lines unkinked and clear. The fuel lines/injectors are the only things that sat at all for about 4-5 months. The tank was emptied and repaired for leaking. Had used old gas to fire up the 620 a month ago, but fresh gas last night for the 800. I've run only a quarter tank through it with a little techron, but unless I am advised to run a tank or more, I'll move on.

I checked my valves before I put the engine in, and got the openers within spec, and the closers are all just at the limit of too loose (Around .002) I read that too loose may cause low idle. I planned on adjusting these after verifying this engine actually ran and doing an oil change. It so far is my first next step just to rule it out. Belts were also changed and adjusted.

With the ecu reflash, is it possible my TPS, and air/fuel may just need adjusting? I'm skeptical because on the 620 it ran fine albeit lean before mapping, and currently it's unbearable.

I'm assuming then, that there is either a mapping issue, or it's fuel related. Post valves, I'm lost as to what to start checking first. I know fuel filter and spark plugs are the top of the list for these issues, then what is the next best bet? From what research I've done, it's verifying injectors are clear and spray a fine mist (I can hear them clicking with a stethoscope), checking wiring for the coils for proper voltage, and then TPS, throttle body sync, and verifying fuel lines are connected properly inside.

Thanks for any help, you guys tend to catch shit I miss or haven't yet had the opportunity to learn  [bang]

Definitely set the TPS, CO and synch and idle speed before doing anything else, TPS first since, if that is off the computer has no idea where your throttle is.  Oh, I assume you changed the fuel filter.

check if the 620 and 800 have the same tps reset value.

actually, scrap that.  620 has a non linear tps, 800 linear.  fit a linear tps if you still have the 620 throttle bodies and start again.  tps reset will be required.

I just was checking your site and noticed in the procedure it only was mentioning 620 for non-linear, so that provides the confirmation I was just going to ask about as I was double checking everything swapped over.

I'll try that first.

@thorn14, please call my shop sometime in the mid-afternoon California time so we can BS about this.

Had a chat with chris earlier, and from that conversation was reminded that mixing and matching of bike parts from various years and sizes can cause headaches. ;D

I checked an 800 wiring diagram with the ecu pinouts vs my 620's and all match up except for body pin 33 which is for the clutch safety switch. (I can barely read the low quality jpg and it looks like body pin 33, already dealt with this if it is the case).

I don't have access to my 620 ecu any longer as I sold it to help cover the cost of the engine, so I'm working with the 800 flash now. (Still have a complete 620 engine  ;) for cheap).

I have a linear tps on it's way to try to make work. I'm assuming connectors are the same, and it should just need to be swapped. Then reset. I have cables and VDST software, but when it was a 620, I could never make it connect and I'm not confident it will magically work now. So the "if it will run" factor is a big question to be able to get it somewhere to reset, let alone get to run right.

So after I try some more frankenstein work in a day or two, I'll have an update on what happens. Thanks everyone.

the biggest issue for vdst connection is battery voltage.  so put it on a charger to bump up the voltage before you connect.

i'd do the throttle opening baseline setting, as that's the only way you can reference the idle throttle setting reliably and you need it to be accurate.  but after that and an idle mixture set it should be fine.

What do you mean by throttle opening baseline setting? Is that syncing the throttle bodies?

do not upgrade to the newer Centurion software if you have a VDSTS tool . . . !!!!

they have uploaded some self help documents on their website, for non connection issues, but, battery voltage must be at least 12.5V . . .

no

http://www.bikeboy.org/ducatitps.html (http://www.bikeboy.org/ducatitps.html)

Gotcha!

Well I swapped it in and it fired up and appeared to run much better than with the non-linear tps. I took it for a test ride and all my symptoms were gone. It runs beautifully now. So I'll get the tps reset and be on my way.  [Dolph] I haven't had my own bike since February so I'm beyond excited.

Thanks everyone!

OMG YAAAY! Man, if your bike isn't misbehaving -- and also getting good MPG, I'm tempted to say dont' reset the tps. Leave it happy.

I only advise this given the franken-nature of your efi system. Normally, I'd be all over telling people to reset it. And having myself waved the voodoo wand over a grumpy efi Monster that refuses to behave is what motivates that advice...

Chris

You have no idea how much I'd love to just leave as is.

As is, after a couple days commuting, I have noticed steady throttle in the 3-5k area has a little popping and hesitation. Above that it's fine. I fixed the exhaust leak, couldn't connect my VDST (no surprise), and the fuel filter had already been changed.

I never got the tps reset on the 620 (same filter/exhaust) when I had that reflashed and I had minor popping, that was fine, on the new 800, it's slightly louder and harder to ride around daintily in traffic.

So I'm leaning towards a reset, then starting the diagnosing process.

Yeah, but a VDSTS (or other) connection is required to reset the TPS. :P  If you could connect, I'd suggest first bumping up the trim adjustment to see if that can make the flat spot better...

why?

just do it properly.

It won't find the COM ports. I've tried a couple PC's and fiddled and can't get it to connect. So I'm gonna take it to my tech who got it to connect last time with a standalone tool.

No big deal as it's just a short 5 minute ride away.

check this out,

http://www.technoresearch.com/Manuals/CENTURION%20S%20TROUBLESHOOTING%20FLOWCHART.pdf (http://www.technoresearch.com/Manuals/CENTURION%20S%20TROUBLESHOOTING%20FLOWCHART.pdf)

or

http://www.technoresearch.com/data/media/pages/USB2.0CableDriverWindowsVista-XP-2000.zip (http://www.technoresearch.com/data/media/pages/USB2.0CableDriverWindowsVista-XP-2000.zip)

or

if you need more help, pm me

for the vdst, make sure your battery voltage is high.  put a charger on it to make sure of it.

then select all the available com ports one by one, to see if it finds the one that works.  it might just be the wrong port by default.  my socio does this occaisionally too.

I could not get the damn thing to connect. I had the battery on a charger and voltage was good. I tried selecting com ports one by one, I tried assigning the com port through the hardware and devices window in windows, and doing it under 10 seconds. I don't know what's wrong but I was stuck.

So I took it in to a shop and they reset the throttle bodies, the TPS, and adjusted the A/F ratio, and the thing runs smoother than my 620 ever did now.

Thanks everyone!  [Dolph]

Hey Guys,

Im new to this forum, but had a quick question that I couldnt find after a search. Sorry if it has already been covered before, I thought I better hijack a similar thread rather than start a new one!

I have a stock 695 wtih 10k on the odo. I have noticed quite a bit that it hesitates at around 3k rpm. I can hear a 'tick' or a 'click' and for a split second the bike feels as if there is no power - almost feels like it has stalled. Then another click sound and it starts up again and goes off! I havent serviced the bike - I bought it with around 8k on the clock.

Another thing I have noticed which may be unrelated, sometimes when Im trying to cruise at 3k, the bike feels 'jumpy' it jerks a bit. I need to take the revs up to 4-5k before it rides smoothly!

Also, the bike has 'misgeared' or something a few times. I have selected the gear and the revs have just dropped completly - I have to gear down all the way and then gear back up to the appropriate gear. It has happened twice while I was riding - luckily I did not need to accelerate!

Im not sure if this is a chain issue or something else - I am wondering if anyone can shed some light on the situation, other wise I will take it for a service and hope they can help me out!

Thanks either way!

Ray