Ducati Monster Forum

She is still in the shop- waiting to see if it is an $1100 fuel pump fix or a $100 battery fix (there is a Li-ion battery in there and the shop said that is no good for a 2006 Monster S2R).

In the meantime, the left rear turn signal was hanging off os I bought some new ones from Monsterparts.  I think they are LED... but I wa reading something about having do something with some resistor somewhere or the turn signals won't work...  Should I replace the front ones too with LED... (if I decide to keep working on the bike.... the $1100 fuel pump is making me want to puke.  I PRAY that I get lucky and that isn't the problem.)

I wish I COULD update the electronics on the bike. I still love that bike- everyone who sees it does- but shes starting to look worse for wear and run like shit (hence- in the shop).

Any ideas about the turn signals?

Thanks!

Sure you can update the turn signals to LED. I needed resistors for the front to a previously added a Vizi-Tec integrated tailight and they work fine.

If it's a problem with the fuel pump, it should NOT be an 1,100 dollar problem. The fuel pump itself costs way less and if it's where the wires pass through the flange, there is a plug & play part from Ducati or CA-Cycleworks.

Have a picture or a link to the turn signals you bought? If it's a regular bulb it doesn't need resistors.

I got these:

http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/ES181/Elec-Signals/ES181.html


Maybe I should have gotten them for the front too.. I don't have any idea how to install them. Not asking shop to do it since they'll cost me a lot of $$$$

Sell them and get these instead http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/266017/Elec-Signals/266017.html   No need for resistors.

Remove tail light, unbolt license plate plastic and beer tray. Then you'll have access to the wire connectors which are easy to see how works. The turn signals themselves are fastened by a simple nut, just like those on the new turn signal. Very basic - just takes a little time.

About the fuel pump: did we discuss this previously or is it a new problem? Often, a shop will suggest replacing the whole expensive assembly even if only a minor part replacement is required....

Without the resistors the LEDs will blink super fast, but if you still have conventional bulbs up front, not as bad.  Often electronic flashers like these  http://www.ebay.com/bhp/electronic-led-flasher-relay will cure the problem, but no guarantee.  Monsterparts sells the proper resistors  http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/EE033H/Elec-Signals/EE033H.html

I would be concerned if the shop couldn't tell me if the problem was battery or fuel pump.  If the bike cranks there is enough battery to operate the fuel pump.  When the pump doesn't work the more common problem is the wire issue stopintime referred to.  A good tech should be able to diagnose this properly.  If you do need a fuel pump, well, here you go  http://ca-cycleworks.com/fp-duc  OK, I should take the good tech comment back, since Ducati only sells the whole piece and many shops do not like to do those kind of repairs.  A search on this board will show what others have done to repair the wire issue.

A Li-ion battery will work in your bike, but there is no established way to test them in the field yet.

Don't buy a new fuel pump flange for 1100$. You can find used fuel pump flanges on eBay for 400$ or less on a regular basis. If you're adventurous apparently you just need to drill out the epoxy and redo the wiring that runs through the flange.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/232348711922

new problem.

I had an issue back in Feb on a nice day.  I twisted the throttle and there was no gas going to the engine.  It would turn over but not fire.  So I stalled right in traffice (right before the expresseway- thank god I wasn't on it yet!)  Anyway,put gas in it in case it ran out and I didn't know it- but that wasn't the issue.  Had to have it towed back to my home.  Bike sat a few more months.  For giggles last month, I put the key and and the bike started up and was able to go around the block.  Okay... but don't trust it. I have been teaching another chick how to ride and am getting soon to the point where I need to ride along.  I tried the bike again, went halfway around the block- it stalled.

Had the bike towed.

The shop said the bike wouldn't turn over.  Then it did but the fuel pump wasn't priming... they said the voltage from the battery wasn't steady so maybe that's the issue.  But I haven't heard anything back at all.

I don't have the ability to do much work on my own bike. I don't have the tools, and I don't have a good garage setup.  So when she's really sick, she needs to go to the shop like now.

So the shop just called me with a bunch of mumbo-jumbo that I don't understand and kinda makes no sense (wouldn't they need to remove the tank to get to the wiring for the fuel pump???). I am worried they're trying to tell me crap because I'm a woman but I'm not a motorcycle tech.  I asked if they had a spare battery to test the fuel pump instead of me buying a battery just so they can keep testing.  Their response: no we don't have spare batteries- you need to buy one if you want us to diagnose the problem more?

WTF? 

I feel REALLY UNCOMFORTABLE.  But I said I want to talk to the tech myself on Tuesday.

I have a feeling they're trying to pull one on me.  If sshit is under the tank, how are you wiggling the wire to the fuel pump, if you haven't removed the tank?  Why are you telling me that the battery might be bad?  Battery was fine when I took it in.  And it suddenly died during diagnostic?  I'm calling bullshit on that one too.

I thnk I might be getting screwed but I'm not sure.

If you google "Ducati monster fuel pump" you'll see lots of people with a similar issue. The tech can check by wiggling the wires running into the fuel pump, or by checking the voltage to make sure it reaches the pump.

The tank is hinged, so they could access the pump without "removing" the tank from the bike.

Have a friend nearby with a bike? See if you can borrow a battery.  But yes, the fact they won't lend you a battery to trouble shoot is concerning to me. Seems unreasonable to not allow you to borrow a battery for 2 minutes to check, especially when they are probably charging you a fee anyway. 

I wouldn't assume that the shop is screwing you, but I think it's strange that they don't have another battery to use. Or at least charge yours....

Talking to the tech might clear things. If he confirms they don't have a spare battery, then I would try to find another shop.

The off and on + sudden stalling suggests a bad connection.

The tank can be tilted up to access connectors and wires. Everything still connected and ready for diagnostics.
- Bad/loose fuse?
- Left side of the battery box has two relays - wiggled or switched around will confirm if that's the problem (fuel pump relay).
- with a battery (yours or any other) directly connected to the fuel pump connector to see if it's working. If it works, the problem is not the fuel pump (,but could be the well known wires-through-the-flange issue)
- bad/faulty wires going to and from the connector three inches from the flange. (I recently had that)

These are just some ideas you could talk to the tech about.

But also:
If they couldn't get the bike to turn over, but they could later... Worth checking if the immobilier antenna (under the plastic cover around your ignition key) is loose and/or poorly connected.

I agree that they are probably not trying to screw you, but, yeah, I would think about another shop.  Can't find a spare battery or do proper electrical diagnosis is a problem.

About half my adult life was spent working on cars.  My experience is many mechanics lack basic electronic knowledge, even more so with bikes.  I can't say women don't sometimes get ripped off but no more than men.  Probably less, men often do it to themselves. 

The tank is jimmy'd on because of the expansion.  So they want to charge me to drain the gas and remove the tank.

The battery thing is what bugs me the most.  If you are a shop, you should have a spare battery just to do your work and to do proper testing.

BTW, bike has been there since mid-may.

I think I will have to pay them for what they have done, tow it back and post the bike for sale.  We don't have decent shops where I live and I don't have the skillset. I know a bit more about cars so when I go to the mechanic/dealer, they never double-talk so I catch them.  I have learned to trust my gut- that phone call made no sense and the battery is the thing really setting me off- I need to buy a battery for you to be sure if its the battery or the fuel pump?  You can't put in a battery to finish?

Yeah.... I work on computers. I have spare parts to test things before I tell people to buy things.

Oh yeah and the fuel pump thing is what I had seen on other boards for $1100.  Some shops won't even let you bring in uses stuff to install it.  I LOVE that bike but I just think we finally are at the point in my life I give up riding. I can't afford a new bike and I won't put good money after bad on this one. And I'm not giving a shop $2K for something that ended up being a $300 fix.  Not that I would ever KNOW that.

The whole way that shop has dealt with me since the bike has come in has felt sketchy.

Why not get your battery load tested at Auto Zone - determine if it is good or not first and simple to do first.

Probably/maybe possible to unhinge the tank first, lift the front slightly, put the hinge pin back in and then raise it.

I think you should talk to the tech first - then we'll discuss options. Your current thoughts are dark/frustrated and it's not a good time to make important decisions.

Initial input to try to persuade you to take one step back until Tuesday:
Selling it 'as is' will deal ALL the good cards to the buyer. Think about the advice we would give to a potential buyer... unknown electrical issues, tank issues and the other little known things... maybe need a service, new tires, fluids, belts.

Spend the weekend finding a good alternative shop. That might make you more confident when you talk to the tech - if you have an alternative lined up.

MsTek,

What you're describing is what I went through a couple years ago. I don't think it's your battery. For a tech that's not familiar with this Monster problem, the flaky battery might be a logical guess. On my S2R it would start and run intermittently. I also thought it was low on fuel or bad fuel. When I twisted the throttle it totally stalled. Then after 10-15 minutes of pushing it of the road and letting it sit, it would start right up again but I couldn't trust it to go anywhere.

When I described the symptoms to my tech he said as soon as it stalls, turn the bike off and take the key out. Then put the key in and just turn the key ON without hitting the starter. You should hear the fuel pump priming with the "whirring" sound. If no priming then the fuel pump is not getting power. For whatever reason letting the bike sit for a while, maybe moving from point A to point B (getting it towed), allows for a temporary good connection again to the fuel pump allowing it to start up again. But then you try to ride and after your first turn, it stalls out again. Anyway I did his test and as soon as it stalled, key out, key on = fuel pump not priming. Then I came here to search for answers.

Yes you can buy a new fuel pump assembly which is what Ducati dealerships want you to do for $1100+. Or you can take apart the fuel pump assembly and fix the bad 4 wire connection to the fuel pump. The connection is covered in epoxy and over time the ethanol in US fuel degrades the epoxy and causes the failed connection (?). Some have used JB Weld to repair the connection, I opted to buy a new one and just replace the bad part onto the fuel pump assembly.

This the thread that helped me out: http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=69062.msg1275815#msg1275815

And here is the fix for my S2R: http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=71783.msg1324795#msg1324795

Talking to a couple shops near me, they did NOT want to try this fix because it's not a normal fix. They would rather just replace the bad part with a new part and this wire harness "only comes with the new fuel pump assembly". I was able to find he harness P/N# 51020032A, and had to do a slight mod adding the extra ground wire but everything is solid again.

I was in your shoes debating if I should keep the bike. I hope this is all that's wrong with yours and I hope you have the means to get it back on the road.

THANK YOU.  I think may be what is going on as well.  I wish I could fix it myself- but I don't have the means nor knowledge to do it- I mean I can work on a computer but half of that is some weird talent and the other half is Google-fu.  I don't have all the tools or a lift or even that great of a garage space so I have to depend on shops- which see me and I think they think '$$$$$$$$$$" (if only they knew the truth, lol!)

I haven't' heard from the shop today...  I will call them in the morning but yeah.. I'm between a rock and hard place as I am teaching someone how to ride and they're getting close to getting on the street and I kinda need a bike to ride with them as they practice.  Right now, I am pretty sure I'm going to be out $300 for nothing.... but if they don't have a spare battery to check the bike, I'm pulling the bike and having it towed back home beause that's just bad business in my opinion.

Have you tried the DRILL group?  http://www.drill-online.com/

Maybe someone can help, or suggest a shop that is willing to actually diagnose and fix something rather than throw parts at it. Have it towed there, and you'll solve all sorts of issues.

You can swap the flange yourself.   Super easy.   Get a used one from eBay, and you can do it in 15 min. 

They want almost $2K to fix it.

(http://www.cannibalismmightbetasty.com/images/ducest1.jpg)

(http://www.cannibalismmightbetasty.com/images/ducest2.jpg)



$1800.

The bike isn't worth that

Did you talk to them to verify that they didn't have a spare 'diagnosing' battery or the willingness to charge/load test yours?

"Wiggled wiring at pump...." doesn't confirm anything is wrong with the pump. It could be the connector, broken wires or the less expensive fuel flange part as described earlier.

Did you get any response when (if?) contacting who Ducpainter suggested?

It's $ 1,800 for chasing a problem they don't know how to diagnose or fix.....  [coffee]

I used to be a part of DRILL, I'm not anymore as their vision and mine didn't align.  That's the most polite way I can think of putting it.

They said that they knew for sure it was the fuel pump.

I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place.  I don't have $1800 and I don't think its worth putting $1800 in a bike that has seen its fair share of issues in its lifetime.  I love her to bits but my life isn't what it used to be in the cash department. I also know if I don't fix it, I probably have quit riding at this point as I just don't see me ever having the money to spend on a motorcycle again.

Getting old and the way the world has changed sucks.

If wiggling the wires makes the fuel pump run the pump ain't the problem.   

Your bike can be fixed for far less than the price quoted.

You just need to find a shop willing to do it.

Do the alternative fix?

Yeah... :(  I live somewhere with few bike shops and every time I tow that bike, it's $150...

I sent the fix thread to the shop and asked them if they would try that. (Honestly, I don't have tools, I'm scared because the tank is swollen and doesn't fit properly so how am I gonna get it on and off and I have no one to help me... some people just have to do things by themselves).

If they won't then I might try to do it myself... but then the new tank that has been sitting in my garage has to go off to get caswelled first because I'll put the new tank on ($350 there for the caswell work).

If I somehow can do it myself, maybe I'll try to swap out other stuff. but I don't have a motorcycle lift.  This is scary.  I know I am mentally capable of doing this... but I would feel less worried if I had help.  But if I accomplished it- I'd be an even worse "alpha" chick.... HAHAHAHAHAH! :)

I probably wouldn't bother that shop much more...

May I suggest taking on the challenges one by one? You don't have to decide the whole saga now - lighten the load by finishing the first chapter before thinking much about the next.

For example......
1. find a good shop or an 'expert' to guide you (yes, you can)
2. charge or replace battery (charge is 'free'. New battery maybe as little as $ 50-60) 
3. find and fix the broken wire/connector (with a raised tank, it should be 'easy')
WOHOOO running bike and lots of options
4. plan to remove, drain, clean the tank and have it shrink back towards 'normal' over the winter (lets you 'forget' about caswell bla bla for now)
5. consider tank replacement and coating IF yours don't shrink enough (new year, new situation)
6. next fix
7. next fix
a.s.o.

I second stopintime's recommendation. I hit a point in my life where I can't ride right now (Work, school, life, etc.). Instead of selling my bike I am fixing all the things, one at a time. Once you fix some easy stuff your confidence will go up. Years ago, I was on DMF reading how to adjust my chain, lift my tank etc. Now I do my own valve adjustments, and am starting to really customize some stuff for myself. Like anything else in life, you need to have $$, or you have to acquire a new skill. My bike has been in pieces for a year, so now wrenching, researching, planning, and budgeting are my hobby. As soon as I finish my masters program,  I will reassemble and be riding again.

I HAVE a new tank in a box in my garage- I got it before I lost my job the last time- when I had a job that actually paid me money.  It's the right color and everything (I think that cost me $1200).  It just needs to go to a motorsports shop to get caswelled (that's not a word but I made it one!)

I'm broke until next Thursday so I can't pick up the bike and the important thing is this:

I NEED the bike now due to giving motorcycle lessons (for free of course because that's how I am- stupid   [bang]). The chick is ready to ride soon. I can't help her if I don't ride along... she doesn't' know anyone else who does ride.  So I don't have much time- I don't have much time in general because I work full time, train people pro-bono in fitness and also train myself.  I wasn't expecting this at all...   Just to get the bike out and tow it back home total now is going to be around $500.  I still need to tow it back from the shop.  They're probably going to charge me storage fee for the next few days because I can't do anything about it until Thursday.

Anyone want to hire me to do some computer tech support or website help on the side? :p

BTW... I REALLY DO APPRECIATE EVERYONE'S KINDNESS AND HELP.

You guys have always done right by me.  Always.

You're welcome  [thumbsup]

To save a little and keep the momentum up, search around, facebook/forums/yellow pages/where ever, for a good shop or independent mechanic and have it towed there instead of home. It doesn't have to be a Ducati specialist, maybe not even a bike place - as long as they have the right attitude they'll find out what's wrong and fix it. All they really need to know is that the battery might be weak and that the fuelpump works when the wires are wiggled.

Finding a friendly and positive place is your homework for the weekend  8)

Chances are she has the bad connection issue in the fuel pump flange that is common to those bikes. A search will show the various fixes.

IIRC it can be done with no parts...just some epoxy and a soldering iron/gun.

Like Lars said, a battery is 50-60 bucks.

Caswell coating is another thing that can be a DIY, but there are some chemicals involved. Tough to do without a workspace.

The flange repair ducpainter is talking about is something shops would not like to do.  Time has to be billed and the job warranted.  The tank does not need to be removed to remove the flange. 

Sorry to hear about your bike.

Personally,  I wouldn't let them touch it anymore.  Have it towed back to your house until you figure out what your going to do, fix or sell.

If possible, pay the shop with a credit card, then you can dipute the charges as the shop was not able to figure out what was wrong, unwilling to try your suggestions.

I got screwed by a shop years back, not my normal shop,  and have regretted not disputing the charges ever since.

And I think you are underestimating your abilities. Read your own tag line. ;)

Good luck.

Good point about the credit card  [thumbsup]

Stupid O is giving problems on my keyboard  :P

Sorry to hear about your problem but the folk here are full of great advice and support.

I agree that this challenge is the op to learn a new skill set.

Those here will talk/guide you through it. Keep the bike and hang in there.

Yeah keep the bike. I used to have an S2R800 and it was a very good motorcycle. The guy I sold it to in 2011 still texts me from time to time thanking me for taking such good care of it. I'd have it back in a heartbeat. Very little to go wrong and what does go wrong is easily fixed. You have a new tank that's like 9/10ths the problem with these bikes, the nylon fuel tanks. Drain the tank & get to work on that fp repair. It's not going to suck that much trust me. Doing brakes on an Audi Q5 that's off warranty sucks. Working on an S2R is like therapy.

So... the bike is on its way being towed back to me as I type this.

I don't know when I am going to have the time.

I don't have a lift.

I have no idea what I am doing.

But I will need your help if you are willing... I will do the work myself. 

In the meantime, I need to ride behind my friend in a car so she can finally take her bike in the street because I have no idea when, if ever, I'll be on two wheels again.   But I couldn't justify $1800.  I may as well get a new bike.... if I could afford it.

Thanks again.

OMG... I am going to post video for you later.  I am SO PISSED!!!!!!!

https://youtu.be/PnWEffZgaIQ (https://youtu.be/PnWEffZgaIQ)

Note:

I don't have a lift for the bike.  I have basic tools.

That's good news. MsTek 1 - 'shop' 0

As discussed, the fuel pump works, so if it stalls or has been - it's most likely the wiring.

Take off the seat. If you can't lift the tank, remove the hinge pin (you'll see it when the seat is off) and slide the tank back just a little. That will allow you to unhinge the latch in front of the tank. With the latch open, tilt the tank enough to slide it forward again and insert the hinge pin. Now you have a tilting tank and access to wires and connectors. If the tank is not more than half full, you can tilt it all the way back and let it rest on a blanket.

Do a visual check of the wires coming out of the tank (through the fuel pump flange). Are they loose? Are they discolored? Is the black plastic connector dirty/wet/corroded inside?

Let's start there.

The filter is leaking a little. Clean it and try to tighten by hand with a damp rag to give you a good grip. If that doesn't work - drop by any shop and ask if the can tighten it a little. Or just leave it for now.

The turn signal. Do you have duct tape? Couple of very tight rounds will 'fix' this for now.

Fixing the seat cover. Later.

Not sure how full the tank is... I might be able to figure out tonight.

I have decided to ask the girl who I am teaching how to ride to help me with this project as "payment".  LOL.  I need a second set of hand.

Say the tank has fuel.  How do I drain it?

And I ordered the lights you told me to.  They should get here next week.  I won't have that bike fixed by next week as I said, I'm super busy and I have a Mauy Thai team that I am coaching that is going to Des Moines for a tournament next week that I am going with.  But I will try to get some answers this weekend. I will see if I can get the tank up at least but the problem is  I have to move that bike in and out of the garage since her bike is in there and the only way we both fit if if my bike is last.  Once the tank comes off, its off- I can't do it by myself.  Its really messed up.

If it's more than half full, drain it or ride until it's less. Draining can be done with a tube and a fuel container. I believe it's called to siphon https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siL82Qtnj_s

I would do the turn signals later.

The bike can be moved manually with the tank tilted. Or are you saying my suggested method is not possible?

Cool!  Thanks for that!  I will get  the information and maybe even photos by the end of the weekend!

(I build computers, surely I can do this !!!)

:)

Your professional skillset is a real advantage in dealing with Ducati electronic gremlins [thumbsup]. With practice you'll find yourself adapting and transferring your skillset with confidence.  You'll do great :) In time you could be doing jobs on bikes people hire people to do, for example repairs to instrument consoles. I would get LT Snyders book on desmodues and study it.

That Lithium battery  will most likely need a top up charge from a charger specific to those batteries.  Regular chargers can hurt them. What brand is it?

 Absolutely [thumbsup]

I want to say Shoei...

Here it is.  This is what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GR5DXE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

THE PLOT THICKENS:

First off- it came home with a battery that it didn't leave with...:


(http://www.cannibalismmightbetasty.com/images/battery.jpg)


And now, photo spam.  The good:

-I was able to get the tank off!!!?!!  I did what stopintime said, put two motorcycle covers on the back and leaned the tank over.  No problem  NO problem getting the tank back on either!!!
-I got a really good look under there for once and really tried to understand what is connected (escoterically since I am not sure what part is what but I think I know where the fuel lines are now and that is the fuel pump. Also really noticed the fuse box for the first time.  Found out where I need to unbolt the belt cover?!  to put on my black ones I ordered a long time ago from Europe.


So here are the photos.  The thing I think we are talking about LOOKS good.. not corroded or anything like that. But I also have VIDEO of the bullshit!! This is after this morning's video of the bike starting with no problem!! mind you, the tank was just near upside down so maybe the fuel wasn't getting down there... I dunno....

(http://www.cannibalismmightbetasty.com/images/duc1.jpg)


(http://www.cannibalismmightbetasty.com/images/duc2.jpg)


(http://www.cannibalismmightbetasty.com/images/duc3.jpg)

BONUS VIDEO:

https://youtu.be/oEetCvO0aQs (https://youtu.be/oEetCvO0aQs)

Your fuel pump is intermittent. There have been many threads here about bad solder joints in that device you have your finger on.

Dig out the black epoxy, resolder the connections, and use slow cure jb weld to replace the epoxy. You can remove the flange to do it, or not if you're the adventurous type...re-soldering won't make much heat. If you do, you'll need a new flange o-ring. They deform as soon as you remove the pressure.

I've never soddered something before.  Is it hard?  Is the tool expensive?

Flange?

The thing that was really grinding my gears was getting that tank off- at the moment it seems to be cooperating.  it seems kinda easy maybe to do this... but I might just not know what I am really supposed to do.

Show me on Amazon what I need to buy.  I like power tools and dangerous things.  I don't want a gasoline fire.

Also- do I dig it out with a knife?

Okay.. I am looking at the following threads.  I am game to do this right.

I guess when I swap the tanks that I would need to take this part out of the current tank?

Let's do it right and well.  Not half ass it. :)


http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=71783.msg1324795#msg1324795 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=71783.msg1324795#msg1324795)

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=68789.msg1272044#msg1272044 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=68789.msg1272044#msg1272044)



http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=71783.msg1324795#msg1324795 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=71783.msg1324795#msg1324795)

Yes...you'll swap the flange. You'll need to repair the wiring. After re-reading those threads, I'd follow Speeddogs' suggestion and..."Or, you could just replace the wiring fitting with the Ducati part, 51020032A"...no soldering involved. Just a new o-ring.

The part seems easiest.  I'd probably spend as much money for a sodering kit and that JB stuff...  maybe.

Where do I order that?  Do I have to go to a dealer or can I order it online?

Check out Ducati Omaha. They're a dealer, but do online sales. Use the online tool to check pricing and availability, then order.

ORDERED!!!


I shall bug you all when it comes for direction on how I am supposed to take this whole thing apart and replace it (I was looking at the photos but still am unsure... do I drain the tank?  how do I take the thing out? What I am supposed to do next?)

If I can fix this, I will feel so awesome... and I can ride with my friend and hopefully, she won't kill herself (or me) when it's time to street ride!

THANK YOU!!!!!! :D

One more dumb question-

Can you change the fuel cap on the tank?

P.P.S.  - did I need to order an o ring?  a new filter or something?

If you remove the fuel lines with the tank upside down, you can then tip the tank, and almost all the fuel will drain out of the flange.

Cap swaps over. You'll need metric allen wrenches.

Order an o-ring, and a fuel filter. You'll be right there, and then won't need to worry about it for quite a while...6K miles anyway.

You'll need to start thinking about coating that tank. It isn't difficult. It is somewhat time consuming, and involves chemicals. There is a thread by ducatiz on a proven method with Caswell sealer. I thin mine a little more than him IIRC, but his method is right on.

Before digging out the potting do a little more diagnosis.  When the bike stalls or does not start and the fuel pump is not priming check if there is power at the brown/white wire in the connector to the fuel pump flange.  If there is power at that wire and the pump does not prime attack the flange.  If not, post back.  It could be an intermittent fuel pump relay or wiring.

If your Shorai battery was allowed to go flat at the shop and not charged you probably needed that new battery anyway. 

What is part number of o ring and fuel filter?

You can search for those numbers on the Ducati Omaha, or Ducati.com sites. I don't know them.

 [popcorn]

The Yuasa Batteries are OEM and good quality; and you got a free battery! Just make sure it has a proper charge in it and use a battery tender (like Jr tender 0.75A trickle charge) to keep it charged and topped up; the Yuasa is a maintenance free battery and should be good for 5-10 yes if properly maintained / charged.  This is basic step #1 for a moto; exp. duc electrical diagnosis; next a 12V electrical testing meter would be a good addition to your tool box (for diagnosing electrical problems).

Note: - from your vid - As you may know there's an electrical lock out on the ignition system; when you turn the key the gauges should sweep; then hit the starter; if this does not happen there's an issue with the key chip syncing with the ECU; if the key is left on after 15-30 seconds the system times out and locks out and you have to turn the key off again; but be carful as you can go into the key programming mode by flipping the key on and off (I forget what the sequence is there; silly Italian system ... : )-... I didn't notice the gauges sweeping in your vid; so could be an issue there; it will turn over but no spark / fuel / fire (from what I remember). OH also check the wire clip on the bottom of the engine that sticks out; it sometimes gets hit / bent frayed / make sure its got a good connection; and will give funny electrical issues. All this is an aside to a fuel pump but related.

Electrical is challenging to diagnose but your doing it; Id encourage you to conquer that! [thumbsup]

Cheers D  [Dolph]

On her Part 2 video the key is already turned when she hits the starter button, so the needles may already have done their thing.

She may have got a free stock battery, but she said she left it there with a Shorai LiFePo battery. I wouldn't call that an even swap.
Plus, that doesn't look like a "new" battery. Possibly just a "known good" battery.

I'd want the old Shorai back and then send it to the Shorai dealer for diagnosis. It might come under partial warranty. How old was it?

It was only a year old.

I don't want to deal with them anymore.  I am going to post a scathing Yelp review.

That is NOT the battery I put in.  But now I just want it over.

That Shorai would still be under warranty too. With the correct charging procedure it could be revived or at least replaced under warranty by the supplier.

I doubt I can get it back. You have no idea how much crap I put up with them to begin with.  I would love my battery back.. but right now I just need to get my bike running period and move on and never go there again.

Might be time to visit with some kick boxer mates. ;)

I believe you'll soon have it all repaired. [thumbsup]

 [popcorn]

? no post  ???;

We no - know-ey what's-a going on there in windy city; your tangerine dreaming - vroom vrooming yet baby?

soooo? Progress report required  ;D

Cheers D  [Dolph]

Another two weeks or so. I need the o ring and I may as well do the fuel filter at the same time. So I am waiting for another paycheck before I can buy them.

Believe me, I'll be asking for help or live streaming my repair somehow.  I hope I can do it!

I changed a fuel tank last year on my s2r 05 acid yellow; its recommended to change the O ring ' but I reused it with no problems; I was careful taking things apart; gently cleaned it off and reused it then gently torqued the fuel pump flange to the tank; it hasn't leaked gas at all (yessss; be careful with the torque on the flange to tank bolts; not too much, not too little).

fuel filter is a bit of a chore too; got to be gentle taking things apart and putting it back together ...

Do you have a parts and mec manual for your s2r 05?

IF I can get some copies I'll email them to ya; just read and follow the mec steps; "easy peasy" with the proper tools.

I do not have a manual.  I think it would be extremely helpful. What I can "see" I can do.

check your pm

yep-ers; I- always - read the shop mec. manual before the fix; always helpful; but note its a translation and edited and (Not) updated; so at times awkward, not so explanatory or just missing stuff / step ...lol

The dark man jumped the gun and pm-ed you one, me thinks; looks like you have friends here  ;D; let me know if you still need one; I have a 06 mec. shop manual for my 05 seems to be exactly the same bikes (05 vs 06 s2r 800).

There is an article this month in Motorcycle Classics about Moto Guild (Motorcycle Workshop) in Chicago.  They have everything to work on your bike and people to help you.  Address is 2213 W. Grand Ave, Chicago.  Look for the magazine its a nice article.
Good Luck

I would check that out.  Another handy helper  http://ca-cycleworks.com/fwires

OOOooo Thanks!!

How's it all going?

I ordered the stuff yesterday and the o-ring needs to come from somewhere else... so I should have all the parts next week and can work on the bike next weekend.  I hope so.

Here's hoping it all comes together soon.
As you've seen, the helpful folk here are willing to guide you through! 👍🏻👍🏻

All the parts I was told to order in this thread are here now.  Its not supposed to be too hot today which is good too.  I'm going to Brazillian Jiujitsu this morning and when I get back, I will start this project.  The is a GREAT UFC card tonight so I hope to finish this before that card starts.

I really hope I can do this and it fixes the problem.

If anyone wants to point me where to replace my rear turn lights, I have new ones of those too that since I'm ripping stuff apart this afternoon, I may as well replace while I'm in there.

I wish I knew a good bike wash too... I don't have access to a water hose and that bike needs a CLEAN.

Progress?

A Windex bottle of lightly soapy water or actual Windex all suface cleaner can help a lot with hand washing your bike. Cheap and removes grime with a rag, just watch the stuff on your tyres, although it does evaporate quickly in the heat. I would avoid pressure washing unless absolutely necessary.

Any progress??

Windex contains ammonium, which is not good for plastic and painted surface.
I wouldn’t use it for any of the plastic parts on the bike, fuel tank, helmet and face shield.

I did the tutorial about washing and cleaning the bike.
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=61782.0
Sadly, it is kinda useless right now because all the photos are gone ...

(I will move the photos from Photobucket to some other place, and fix the thread. But, it’s going to take some time.)

Meanwhile, for quick cleaning / detailing, I would suggest the followings.
When you pick up something for motorcycle and helmet cleaning,
“non abrasive”, “ammoinum free” , “alcohol free”  are important.

Brillianize
http://www.brillianize.com/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8BNAlUziKs

Protectall
https://www.protectall.com/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-33lKwLG6A

Original Bike Spirits spray polisher / cleaner
http://www.originalbikespirits.com/products/spray-cleaner-polish/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zX7X3NvpUA

(You don’t have to spray that much. The video uploader is over spraying and wasting a lot of money.)

Plexus
http://www.plexusplasticcleaner.com/about.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1ma7f0sv_s

Borrow (or buy) leaf blower, use it for blowing off sand and all the crap from the plastic parts and painted surface of th ebike.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVFa2J2gINk
(He’s using it for drying the bike after washing, but you get the idea.)

I didnt say Windex glass cleaner; you are correct about that product. I mentioned Windex All Surface cleaner.

I read your post again, and yes, you did say "Windex All Surface Cleaner".

Sorry, if I offended you , it wasn't meant to be bashing. (should have read more carefully anyway.)

Just, didn't want people to run to the kitchen and grab the Windex glass cleaner bottle,  spraying  it all over the bike ....

Na, it's cool, no worries [thumbsup]. I sounded terse via keyboard.
The glass cleaner is definately harsh and only for glass.

So I haven't started this yet.

I looked at the video- I don't have some of those itty bitty tools.  I don't know if I can do this. :(  I was kind a gung-ho.. now I looked at the video... he looks so confident at what to cut and what to yank on... ugh.

Help?

https://youtu.be/8KroWw1MFAA

The first two hoses are fuel overflow - leave them for now, but later route them inside the frame and foot peg assembly. They drip gas if you overfill.

The connector unhooks.

The two plastic 'quick release' thingies carry pressurised fuel from the tank to the injectors. Close to the grey metal fuel flange (which you are removing) the have circular clips - pinch with two fingers and pull. There might be some fuel in them, but not more than a small amount of paper will catch.

Thanks. :)

Reading is fundamental

I probably bit off more than I can chew.  :(

• There was more fuel in the tank than I thought- spilled gasoline all in the alley.  Put a sign up saying "DO NOT ASH HERE OR USE FIRE- GASOLINE".
  
• Got the damn thing out... but have no idea still how to take it apart... nor do I have the tools in this video.  (https://youtu.be/eiHtrzgnncU)
• This is far more complicated than building a computer and its only one part!!! And I'm worried about that grounded wire- I didn't look to see if mine has it (not that I'd recognize it if it does) but I have no idea what to with it if I do.

Tank is upside with a little fuel in it, open in my garage right now.  I am praying it STRORMS tomorrow to flush that alley.  I have the part sitting in my sink right now.  I am covered in gasoline.  I thought it was going to be simple but um... I don't have the right tools.  Going to walk away from this tomorrow and try to figure it out.  Maybe they have some tools at Autozone I can use.

*frustrated*

At least maybe I can follow this to put it back together?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FWnz5y40RU

And am I missing some sort of sticky goo I need to put on it because the inner side of that thing is very tacky to the touch.

Do you have to buy tools tomorrow? Have to buy locally?

If you have to, go to NAPA rather than Autozone, and ask them

Snap Ring Pliers
PART# SER3150
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER3150
(http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/image/GenuinePartsCompany/NWMDC?$Product=GenuinePartsCompany/24867)

O-ring and seal picks
PART# SER2554
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER2554
(http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/image/GenuinePartsCompany/NWMDC?$Product=GenuinePartsCompany/1110723)

What about the sticky stuff on the bottom?

And are those the ONLY two things I need?  Dude seems to have an arsenal in the video.

Also, why is Autozone bad?

So I went out and got those two parts.  I'm going to go to the farmer's market right now and take a look because I kinda want tomatoes and cucumbers for lunch and then I will try to tackle this becaue the smell of gasoline in my house, in the garage, all over is making me feel quite sick.

According to the Ducati Workshop manual,

"Change the flange O-ring. Grease the new O-ring and reverse the removal procedure to refit."

So, the only thing you need to apply there is grease.

I suggest buying a bottle of acetone, and clean all the surface before putting things back together.


How much hand tools do you have now?


The reason I'd recommend you to go to NAPA rather than Autozone is

1)People at NAPA are (generally speaking) more knowledgeable.
2)The quality of the tools that you can find at Autozone is hit and miss. (Some are Okay, some are very questionable.)
3)If you keep working on your S2R, you will be buying more tools bit by bit, paper towels and absorbent mats, cleaning chemicals, etc. It is better to have one "go to" store rather than going to many different places randomly.
For that, NAPA is way better than Autozone.

So, I assume you have screwdrivers (both Phillips and slotted) in some different sizes.
(You will need Phillips #2 and small slotted (like 1/8", for removing e-ring.)
(If you don't have, post again.)

You will need some pliers and cutters.
If you have a decent hardware store near you, you might find Channellock pliers and cutters.

8" Duckbill pliers
https://www.channellock.com/718-Long-Nose-Plier.aspx
(https://www.channellock.com/data/default/images/catalog/original/718-404.png)

7" diagonal cutter
https://www.channellock.com/437-Cutting-Plier.aspx
(https://www.channellock.com/data/default/images/catalog/original/437-371.png)

6.5" slip joint pliers
https://www.channellock.com/516-Slip-Joint-Plier.aspx
(https://www.channellock.com/data/default/images/catalog/original/516-408-408.png)

All made in USA, decently priced, good quality tools that will last forever.

Or, if you rather not to waste time for tool shopping, just go to NAPA again.

8" Duckbill
https://www.napaonline.com/p/CHQDBP8
(http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/image/GenuinePartsCompany/NWMDC?$Product=GenuinePartsCompany/1446971)

7.5" Diagonal cutter
https://www.napaonline.com/p/CHQDCP75
(https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/f5YAAOSwZQRYZCAE/s-l225.jpg)

6" slip joint
https://www.napaonline.com/p/CHQSJP6
(http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/image/GenuinePartsCompany/NWMDC?$Product=GenuinePartsCompany/1448184)

NAPA Carlyle line tools are Taiwan made. The big advantage is, most NAPA store keep them in stock (so that you don't have to wait). And that makes warranty exchange really easy. (walk into the store with broken tool, walk out with the replacement, like Sears/Craftsman tools used to be.)

So I got all those metal o rings off. I don't know if I did it right but I did.  Now I need to undo this to get the damn thing off.  How?  Do I break this?  Where will I get another if I do?


https://youtu.be/95K8H9Z3bo8

Break it off. Carefully...  Replace with a normal hose clamp - screw on type - like Chris does in the video.

(http://www.hcl-clamping.com/cw4/images/product_expanded/l-worm-saej1670.jpg)

You should be able to find these at local hardware store, or NAPA store.

I forgot to say,
WEAR EYE PROTECTION when you remove e-rings, snap rings.

Napa store is closing before I can go back to it. Will have to go to Lowes/Autozone.

Looked up "e-ring".  I did not see any "e-rings" in what I took off.

https://youtu.be/y_3ow0IHqGc

I think I've seen snap rings like those in your bag, but smaller and then not 360 degrees - if they are only 270 degrees they look like an 'e'. I'm guessing that's where the name comes from. Again, not sure, but I think they should be replaced with new.

We are now at an impass.

I went to Auto Zone- no hose clamps that small.  When to Lowe's- None that small.

Left the part in my garage as I can't deal wtih that smell anymore.  Anyone link me something on Amazon that I can use for the clamps?  Won't work on this again until maybe Friday.

I don't know the size you need, but this shop has them all https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-6-13mm-Adjustable-Clamps-8-10mm/dp/B072DWJH59/ref=sr_1_11?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1502064258&sr=1-11&keywords=8mm+fuel+hose+clamp

You want clamps rated for fuel injection. :)

If the ones I found aren't suitable (is that what you're saying koko?), I'm sorry. It was a quick search - maybe too quick...

The one you linked will work fine.

IF OP wants well known brand (products), Amazon also sells this (By Breeze/Norma)

https://www.amazon.com/22009-Stainless-Injection-Style-Clamp/dp/B00OL267ZK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_tr_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4CZH4JGHBYAVNV2491PH

and Earl's performance
https://www.amazon.com/Earls-Performance-750006ERL-Hose-Clamp/dp/B01EKUF2TE

The clamp can be found at NAPA (locally).
(http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/image/GenuinePartsCompany/NWMDC?$Product=GenuinePartsCompany/233375)

Isn't it better to take the stuff with you to the store, making sure what size you need and buy?

They look strong. As long ss they can handle efi pressure.

yep, these are preferred for fuel injection, the others can cut into hose.  Any decent auto parts store will stock them.  Auto zone does not qualify foe decent.

It was all that was open at the time I found out I needed that too.

Doesn't matter, I'm broke now until payday.  I did find that Moto Guild place however- it was near NAPA. I chatted with them for a second.

http://www.motoguildchicago.com/

Any news? :)

Yes, I do want to derby to this topic because I left it for two years... LOL.

Now I am trying to finally fix it. This is where I left off. I have a little time right now and I really need the bike again.  Watch the video- you'll see why I got thrown off.

https://youtu.be/fXdBp2PvMYQ (https://youtu.be/fXdBp2PvMYQ)





Any ideas? 

Thanks!

I remember running into the same issue with my S2R. Let me dig up my thread on it... Man, I've been MIA too. Hope everyone is doing well!

OK here's the thread: http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=98safijffqrtfdg4fbulus9753&topic=71783.msg1324795#msg1324795

Since the new replacement wiring harness does not have the extra ground wire like the original piece on your fuel pump, I took everything back to the moto shop where I bought the new part. All they did was:

1. Back out the negative wires on both the old and new wiring harnesses.
2. They clipped the old "extra ground wire" at the connection from the original piece.
3. On the new wiring harness they backed out the negative wire from the plug, removed the negative female spade connector.
4. Then with a new female spade connector, crimped the "extra wire" into the new connection.
(Apologies to the electrical engineers for my lack of proper terminology.)

They basically transplanted that wire into the new wiring harness plug. Then it was all a matter of putting everything back together. No fueling issues since.

Have faith, it can be done and you will get it back together!

Considering I bought the parts two years ago, I doubt they will take it back and I had to mail order it.

I see what you are saying but unless I have a diagram I have no idea what you are saying. ;D

No need to return it. Just need a new female spade connector that will fit into the black plug, a wire crimper, maybe some picks to back out the spade connectors from the black plugs.

Probably a good idea to wait until you can get into that garage and have the help available from the mechanic. If the bike has been sitting that long it definitely needs everything checked over.

If you can source a metal filter, there is no need for the extra ground. The plastic filter is what necessitated the ground wire.

Either solution will work, your choice. 

oh you again; I remember your problematic tangerine duc , still working on that machine ...lol.

... in general, as on computers; cars, motob's, etc; always make sure you have a good ground, or wires fuses blow or worse wires get burnt etc; ( ... and just thinking s little further ... your playing with a gas tank between your legs ...)

Test the components & wiring before reinstalling; knowing that takes a bit to get it out dry tec (but do not run the fuel pump dry for long it uses beinf submerged in gas to stay cool, (you could overheat the pump)

Don't think you need a new o ring on the tank / pump flange so long as it came off as a whole and goes on (Id lightly grease it then check for leaks; and you'll deff need the flange screws, and don't over tighten them you can crack the plastic in the tank; heed the torque warnings; not commenting on the electrical cause I don't have direct experience with wires on that component ...

The flange screws are in the tank. That's where you at the time thought they were impossible to forget  [cheeky]

I found the screws.  I used to lose everything when I was younger now I just put stuff away really well so I can't find it. ;)

I guess I will have to wait.  Damn.  I don't want to buy a car and that's a piece of crap too.  And I want a bike but I don't want to buy a new one.

Sometimes I wish I lived where there wasn't winter then I could get just get rid of the car!

Apparently the do it your self place burned down and there isn't another one in Chicago.

So I'm going to have to fix it myself or pay a shop money to make the repair for me. [bang]

Maybe find a shop that does electrical/computer/appliances work (cheaper) and hand them the printed wiring instructions you got here?

Then you can put the flange+ back in the tank yourself or pay a car shop (cheaper) to test and install it.

You fix computers, can you solder?

clip, put heat shrink on, solder, move heat shrink over bare wires, apply a lighter flame. Presto-change-o.
https://buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/high-temperature/teflon-ptfe-12/4-1-ptfe-heat-shrink?diameter=379&campaign=2052595882&adgroup=74495915517&feeditem=&keyword=&matchtype=&device=c&network=u&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjYHpBRC4ARIsAI-3GkGFFOQdQcRdBnUzSBfsmEheDDIAr0yM9HXcr82jljH89gnYIjE1DXIaAtJiEALw_wcB&creative=359650491566&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjYHpBRC4ARIsAI-3GkGFFOQdQcRdBnUzSBfsmEheDDIAr0yM9HXcr82jljH89gnYIjE1DXIaAtJiEALw_wcB

Good idea!


I cannot solder.  I don't fix computers like that.  I can build them and fix things wrong with them but I can't make a motherboard. :)

You don't have to solder.
If all you need to do is to add extra ground wire to the ground wire on the new harness, you can just "tap" extra ground wire to the ground wire of the new harness, using post-tap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N64p6ndlTQ8

https://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Connector-16-18-Gauge-Wire/dp/B00389R8KU

I was going to take video of soldering... it's easier and less problematic than the various pieces that exist to avoid it. I believe in standards, it's part of my job, but I doubt those Posi-lock things ability to hold up to Bonneville (salt-spray mil-spec).

But then I couldn't find the fancy thing that holds my cell phone to the tripod...

Seriously, though, if you can turn a wrench and troubleshoot a wsdl/dll/registry problem... soldering is just a matter of practice. This is more than you need:

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Soldering-Iron-Full-Welding/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=sxin_4_osp18-5bddfe5a_cov?ascsubtag=5bddfe5a-5f09-4448-804c-13db1e65e880&creativeASIN=B01712N5C4&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.5bddfe5a-5f09-4448-804c-13db1e65e880&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=soldering+kit&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B01712N5C4&pd_rd_r=ee6560a8-c7a4-4343-b477-1a4e8e340462&pd_rd_w=imomw&pd_rd_wg=UWqjA&pf_rd_p=c501273b-119a-4fc9-ad78-eda5006b0be9&pf_rd_r=CX0SZQGHHADZK4HTVK0J&qid=1562557994&s=gateway&tag=thewire06oa-20

https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hand-Magnifier/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=soldering+kit&qid=1562558049&s=gateway&sr=8-29

It's not as delicate as making a motherboard... it's the neanderthal equivalent.

Unlike the more common 3M scotch locks the Posi-taps work pretty good.

In this case I think solder and heat shrink are the way to go.  I agree with Dirty Duc, you can do this, just practice first.  And don't use acid flux solder.

A couple of videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ErNVJytyNs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=325&v=ZuKFhBq7kog

The second one is more to show you can do this without a lot of equipment.  The lineman splice is overkill for what you are doing, and also bulky.

In case you have never seen / used Posi-lock, posi-tap, they are not like those cheapo bullet connectors & vampire tapping connectors. They are totally in a different level.

If, she's willing to try soldering, I'd recommend "cordless" set up.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48229076981_7e5de5db7a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQCj2)DSC03324 (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQCj2)

The black & silver thing in the foreground is my favorite, Weller /Portasol super-pro PSi100K. (cordless butane soldering iron)
The blue one in the back ground is Weller BP860MP, battery operated.

Portasol super-pro is way better tool, for working on vehicle wiring, security camera, etc. For those who don't have garage, Protasol has a huge advantage over corded soldering iron.
Also, it comes with PPT11 hot air deflector tip. (upper right corner)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48229077956_cb3f431275_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQCAQ)DSC03322 (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQCAQ)

This tip is for heat shrink tube. Again, when working on vehicle wiring, this is the easiest to use, most efficient tool.

Protasol super-pro PSI100K
https://www.amazon.com/PSI100K-Super-Pro-Self-Igniting-Cordless-Soldering/dp/B000ICGN38


If you don't want to spend that much money, this one will do. (This also comes with PTT11 tip.)
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-P2KC-Professional-Self-igniting-Soldering/dp/B000WOHSHM

For cleaning the tip, I recommend using those brass steel wool type one. Works better than wet sponge.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48229077476_106b46cd16_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQCsy)DSC03323 (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQCsy)

For cleaning

They look pretty neat. I just doubt their long term petroleum resistance and their ability to keep out salt in the most extreme of conditions... I'd rather get my corrosion at the ends of the wires where I can see it.

I'll agree with that.  Solder is the way to go on that fuel pump harness.

Motorcycles exist in a fundamentally hostile environment.
The wiring harness is completely exposed to that environment.
So anything you can do to make it more resistant to that is important.

The sealed connectors on Ducati harnesses are good, I see very little trouble with those.

The unsealed connectors are atrocious.
The spade connectors on the alternator and VR are an absolute crime, they're so under-spec that they're borderline when brand new.
Honestly, typical electrical/electronic designer ignorance of reality.
That also manifests itself in product packaging, I've seen countless aftermarket devices expressly for motos with no thought given to mounting.
They may as well just enclose the circuit board with shrinkwrap...oh, wait, that's real common too.

I'd not use that posi-lock inside a fuel tank.
The only connector they have that is immersion rated *at all* is the Posi-Tite, and that is only to SAE/USCAR-2 5.6.5.
Only 30 minutes immersion in gasoline, so not applicable to years-long immersion in ethanol-contaminated gasoline.

I've done a few of the ground-wire additions; snipped the ground wire off the defective harness and soldered it to the spade connector.
Never used heat shrink in that, I've no confidence whatsoever in it surviving immersed in gasoline.

I did 6 years of LSR competition at Bonneville and El Mirage.
The salt absolutely hammers everything, maintaining an operational wiring harness was a constant battle.

Ok. I'm desperate.

My car broke.  I'm about to sell this bike for far less than it's worth because I need the money.  But if I can get it working, then at least I have transportation again and might be able to work far away.

Would anyone be willing to do a skype session with me where I show you the part and what I am doing and you tell me where I am supposed to do whatever?  I work in IT meaning I do IT Project management. I know how to build a computer but I buy a motherboard and other things and put them together.  I don't solder motherboards. LOL.  I just don't want to do more damage than is already done.  The bike has been sitting in the garage for three years now.  I have a new battery I got six months ago that just needs a charge.  If I can fix this and put it back together, I think she should start up once I throw in a little gas in the tank.

I will put up a webcam, show it on the part, and we can skype or whatever and you tell me what to do.  It looks like less than a 20 min fix if you know what you're doing.

Thanks!

-V-

P.S.  I will buy the soldering kit.

Buller... Buller...

I'm sorry I can't help - simply not enough know how.

I think my suggestion for the cheapest-help-route was good, but if funds are seriously limited....  In my club, this would have been done a long time ago. Did we talk about getting in touch with the nearest club?

No.  I am not part of the club anymore because I didn't like sitting at the bar and drinking.

:(


I'll keep digging around. Someone must have done this online and took photos or something.

No one can teach you to solder via Skype. It's like welding, painting, or any other skill.

Buy the soldering kit, and practice. Then the actual job will be simple to explain.

I was not asking someone to teach me how to solder.  That looks pretty easy to do.  I don't know what wire goes where. That's the problem.  Not actually sodering.  I am a visual person.  If the directions aren't explicit, I don't understand.  I know this seems simple to everyone else on here but it isn't to me.

Ducpainter suggested using a metal filter (NO SOLDERING!!!)

https://www.amazon.com/3032-NAPA-Gold-Fuel-Filter/dp/B00K24P6TO   (probably/maybe correct product)

That filter is waaaaay cheaper at NAPA.

I already bought a  filter.  I have everything.  I just don't know what to do with the MF-ing wires!!!

Did you buy a steel filter?

No its the same Ducati part.  Plastic.

Ducpainter said NO SOLDERING if you use a metal filter. I think that's a solution....

When I say I am broke, I am broke.  I don't have money to buy more parts.  I'm eating green meat and ramen.  [puke]  I have the filter and the soldering kit and the sleeves now.

Update:

So I contacted where I bought the original part and sent them photos.  They told me that in fact, that is the wrong part.  :(

They told me to go here:

https://ca-cycleworks.com/fwires.html

Unfortunately, I don't have the money to buy another part right now but it's nice to see that there is the part that looks exactly like mine.

 [thumbsup]

They wouldn't accept a return and refund?

Ask Chris at CCW if he will take your part in (part) exchange for a new and correct?

Good idea.  Thanks.

Wish me luck putting it back together tomorrow:

https://youtu.be/OVMf9xATYMw (https://youtu.be/OVMf9xATYMw)

Good luck  [thumbsup]

The assembly video from Chris CCW shows how the connector is put together. Not difficult.

New video of the work when completed?

A few more questions:

The battery is a li-ion one so should be charged up in about 3 hours.


Does this look right?  The wires are just loose in the gasoline?:

https://youtu.be/og8ctvCcxT8 (https://youtu.be/og8ctvCcxT8)


Is this caswell?:

https://youtu.be/oXV-jKp1YG0 (https://youtu.be/oXV-jKp1YG0)

Yep, the wires just hang out in the gasoline.

I try to route them through/around stuff so they're not too free to dangle around and fatigue.
Also makes getting the whole assembly back in a bit easier, that's usually only an issue on the small oval fuel pump plate units though.

Thank you.

I'm so nervous that it's not going to work.  I keep looking at the battery charger.  I want it to hurry up and I also don't want it to in case I am disappointed.

In the assembly video it looks (I can't hear the audio) like the flat spade goes on top of the pump and the round eye connector on a fuel filter clamp....

The tank inside looks like mine did before Caswell. Caswell comes in a clear version, plus colors, so it COULD be coated.

I can take it out again. I put in the bike already.  I couldn't tell from the video that shows you how to do it what was going on with that.

It's almost clear at 4:35. Almost....

Sorry, didn't completely understand the questions.

Will BRB with annotated pics.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48554163237_cb1a49f954_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gYyM8t)

To the ear on the fuel filter....






(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48554161562_34e00f1d3d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gYyLCA)

I still don't understand where this one goes.  Nor do I have any tiny screws in the box.  This is as s2r if Tha means anything.

(https://ibb.co/rQ30QSy)

That one goes to the fuel filter.

If you don't have the hardware, go to a hardware store, Lowes, Home Depot...anywhere, and get what you need.

what size is that screw, do you know?

I am screwed. I can't drive my car to the hardware store.  Shit.

What size screw?  Maybe I have a screw from one of my computers I could use.

i just found a tiny screw.  it doesn't look right but I will try it

Any size screw, most likely with an accompanying nut, that will fit through the hole.

Or even a sheet metal screw, or wood screw that will bite into the plastic.

In your own video the wire with the eye connector is attached to the screw that holds the filter to a rod/something  [thumbsup]  (August 6. 2017)

ARGH!!!!!!!

https://youtu.be/Cg-1tC32-Z0 (https://youtu.be/Cg-1tC32-Z0)

How cool do you feel now?  8)

That's a job only a very few people would try to do.

Super cool~

And to think that shop wanted to charge me $1500.  And stole my battery.

But now... a new question:

(https://youtu.be/DC6dxFCWsqs)

I recommend taking off the beer tray.

- two nuts and fold the rear light forward
- four nuts under the tray
- six connectors (two for each turn signal and two for the plate light)

- a large nut for each turn signal

- sometimes aftermarket light have smaller bullet connectors than stock. If so, solder  ;D on larger connectors


Now I see they're LED. It's probably going to be a problem - fast flashing rate. You can ignore it or get normal bulb lights instead. Getting them to work normally will require SOLDERING  ;D in resistors.

I am keeping the beer tray on- harder for the police to see that I don't have a current sticker which I cannot afford until I get a job.

I guess I'll just duct tape the light back up.  I could solder it- I have the stuff.  But I need a diagram or example. I have to see in order to do it.  That's why things were throwing me off so bad- things weren't the same with the replacement part.

Thanks!

I didn't mean to ditch the tray - just remove it to get easier access and to to see what's under it = understanding the wiring.

Ah.  Got you.

I think I'll just tape it for now and bask in the fact that the bike actually works again. There is also an issue that the shifting feels really rough/hard to do, and I want to adjust the brake pressure a little bit. But I also might not be used to my "big bike" anymore since I haven't ridden it in two years and spend 4 months in Thailand riding a little 250 CBR.

I would also probably do that  ;) For a while, anyway. As a way to prepare - take a look at your video - it's actually showing the wires quite well.

Before taping it up: top off the turn signal with a small amount of blinker fluid.

Two years will make the clutch 'different'. It might drag a bit - making shifting hard to do and neutral hard to find. Could be the plates and/or the clutch fluid. Not serious.

What do mean by adjusting the brake pressure?

They are super "grabby" right now.  Again, I might just be used to the soft rental motorcycle brakes.

I'm way more worried about how hard it is to shift.

blinker fluid?

Had to try the blinker fluid now that your guard was down  [Dolph]

On the S2R800 brakes there are more moving parts than normal. Brake pads, brake pistons AND the calipers themselves. Rusty/dry pads, dry/sticking pistons and dry caliper bracket parts (they move sideways). Some of this might be better in a day or two, but CAN require TLC.

When you pull the clutch lever all the way - is the bike still pulling forward if it's in gear? Or standing still on it's own without any need for braking to hold it back?

I'll have to see.  I'll check tomorrow.  I just know shifting sucks.  I think I might understand where you are going with this though in theory.  That the clutch isn't disengaging all the way?

I'm gonna say it...'cuz that's what I do. ;D

Ride it girl...stop analyzing.

The problem is that if I can't shift easily, that's kinda dangerous. 

Yes. It might be better after just a short while. Ride around the block ten times, see if it's improving.



They do like to be used  [thumbsup]

Motorcycles are dangerous.

Ride it.

Climb out of your computer mindset.

I'll offer a song... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbhYqV17CoQ

Lol...
I'm a certified cave diver. And spend time in SE Asia training in combat alone for 4 months.  I'm not scared of anything but if I have to keep slamming my foot on the shifter and sometimes it will not downshift at all... That's kinda a problem. I have to ride it.  I have no way to go to job interviews so I have to push it no matter what.

If the clutch is not fully disengaging you could try bleeding it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=277&v=1tWVPdKcEDU

If shifting is still hard follow dp's advice for now.  Can you get your bike to an area where there is less traffic, therefore hopefully safer?

Has the bike ever been down on the left side? Bent/misadjusted shift linkage can cause difficulty shifting in one direction.

It's also possible the linkage needs adjusting internally. A properly adjusted linkage will allow shifting down with out the clutch with out having to jump on the shifter.

That said, I'm thinking clutch drag.

Bleed the clutch
Do an oil change, especially if it's been sitting 2 years. The S2R800 is a wet clutch that uses the engine oil as lubricant.
RIDE IT!! and get the kinks out.

Yep, the clutch fluid will go soft and needs replacement. Get a buddy to help you on that and its easy. Should be plenty of tutorials around on that. Thankfully brake/clutch fluid is cheap too (use DOT 4). Have a windex bottle of soapy water ready to spray on any spilled brake fluid as it eats paint.
I've done my share of dangerous stuff, but cave diving, no way I'd do that  :o. You're very brave. :)
You'll get this bike up and running for sure. [thumbsup]

AH! you fixed the electrical! Just checking in; don't hang here all the time.

 [thumbsup]

You fixed it, good that your carful; detailed oriented and managed to work through that; most would have given up long ago. "OMF-enG", lol. Good something I'v never done. Other stuff below I have done.

 [Dolph]

Clutch and oil is easy by comparison;

bleed clutch line with new, to spec, break fluid, I sometimes remove old fluid from reservoir with paper towel then add new clean fluid (you do need a simple break bleed kit with rubber hose helps; very fussy to balance all; so take you time, but easy; slowly pull lever in after you loosen bleeder nut on clutch slave cylinder; then tighten while lever is still pulled in; then release lever; do again takes +/-? 20 pulls; note keep clutch reservoir level topped up; so you don't get air in clutch line; bleed till clean clear fluid flows out; without tiny air bubbles. )

Oil make sure you get to spec motorcycle oil and add proper amount; also check level and top up. Clutch has been sitting for 2 yrs; probably 1/2 submerged in oil and half out; so one sides been wet others been dry for 2 yrs; it will take a bit of riding to even the clutch plates out ... other here may have some suggestions.

Still mobile?  :)

No.

The rear tire is flat.  I have no idea how it came to be so.  I don't have all the tools and am unsure of what to do.  Pretty sure I could change a car tire if I had to but not so sure about this.  It's $200 to tow it to the shop then however much they'll charge me.  I am assuming that the tire has an inner tube in it?  Or are they tubeless?  Now, I probably have about one month left of riding left and I am trying so hard to save money but now I have a down car and a down motorcycle.  Grr.  And my garage isn't heated so its going to get cold.  Not sure what to do.  I want to fix that hanging tail light myself but the flat rear tire seems complicated.

Also, a question about li-on battery.  During the winter, should I take it indoors and sit it on a charger?

Pissed about that tire. 

Oh yeah... and sometimes, the bike just doesn't start.  I hit the ignition and it doesn't do anything but the power is on.  Then if I wait a bit, it will come on.  I am wondering if I have an issue with the starter or what.  The headlight sometimes flickers slightly.  I can see it is doing it but its subtle.  I do think the battery is charging as I ride but I dunno.

With the tire, put air in it and see what happens.  They do loose air sitting.

Fully charge battery with a suitable charger for your LI battery, clean battery connections and ground.

Those batteries need some heat. Turn the ignition on - it will turn the headlight on and the battery will heat up. Let it sit like that for ~a minute. Easier start.

It's hard to remove the wheel - one big nut torqued heavily. Do you have access to compressed air? Could be those small cartridges. It's often possible to see why it's flat ... nail/screw/valve - tried that?

You can get one of these rear stands if your swingarm has spools, from Harbor Freight for ~ $30. Probably can get a tire patch kit for ~ $15-$20 and fix it yourself and in the future.  (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191006/2e928fbe7705822ee33e141875c575cc.jpg)

I have a stand... my bike is a single swingarm though.  But it doesn't matter- my bike hates me.   :'(


https://youtu.be/D0WXtbY9EEg (https://youtu.be/D0WXtbY9EEg)

But they say to me "She's Italian and fickle, what do you expect?"

https://youtu.be/rm3xfVvj0Bg (https://youtu.be/rm3xfVvj0Bg)

You can see the power fluctuation here:

https://youtu.be/ticH3YFF5PU (https://youtu.be/ticH3YFF5PU)

A problem with lithium moto batteries is DIY diagnosis.  There really is none other than trying a known good lead acid battery.  But what you can do is fully charge it and also check your charging system output.  You want to see 13.5 to 14.5 volts at the battery at a speed higher than idle.  Yes, that blinking tail light can be due to a battery/charging system problem, particularly if it disappears above idle.  It could also be due to low idle speed. 

How old is the battery?  Lithium ion or LiFePo 4? Brand? 

This is what I purchased about six months ago:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GR5DXE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GR5DXE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Easy enough for me to take the battery out and put it on the tender.  Would that be why it starts sometimes and sometimes doesn't?  How do I see the volts of the battery when on the bike?

Charge it  [thumbsup]  It's going to change your life.... (maybe)  The starter button is supposed to run the starter, without holding it in, for longer than it does on yours. If that's because the battery is weak... don't know, but you're about to find out. Did you heat the battery before pushing the button? (leaving the lights on for a minute, or otherwise)

No.

But why isn't the battery being charged as the bike runs?

It performs better after ~a minute (opposite normal batteries)

At lower revs there isn't enough juice. Short rides won't charge enough.

Thanks.  I will try it.

If you have one, or know someone who does have one, a decent bicycle floor pump will work to inflate the tires. It will take some effort, but probably easier than pushing several blocks to a station.

I use Joe Blow pump (by Toepeak) for my motorcycle and car all the time.
https://youtu.be/hXggZvISsng

Unless the bead came off of the rim, using bicycle pump is far less work than pushing the motorcycle to gas station.

Tire air pressure drops over time, because rubber used in the tires is porous. Well, pretty much everything in this world is porous, at molecular level.

If you can visually see tire loosing air in a week (or less), then, you have leak somewhere.
Tire valve stem can be a reason of slow leak also.

If the tire's got puncture, then ...


You have a stand.
If you know someone with cordless impact (1/2 drive) gun and socket in the right size, put the bike up on the stand, remove the rear wheel, take it to the shop would be the quickest, least expensive  option.
BUT, you will have to remove the silencers first.

https://youtu.be/eSlpToqxNco

And, you will need torque wrench to tighten the wheel nut, spring hook tool to reinstall the silencers.

https://youtu.be/pv9Rn4HaHGY

Or, you can try to patch it yourself.
(Can be done without removing wheel / tire)

https://youtu.be/pKCsh6jST_U

https://youtu.be/EjmPOrdd5b4

Tender, you mean Battery Tender by Deltran?

(https://www.meijer.com/content/dam/meijer/product/0073/43/5700/00/0073435700007_1200.png)

Shorai's FAQ page says,

“Smart” lead-acid chargers with automatic cutoff may be used for periodic charging, but will NOT work as a tender/maintainer and should be disconnected immediately after charge has finished.  Older lead chargers without automatic shut-off should never be used. Improper charging is dangerous and will void your warranty.

Basically, if you are not riding at least twice a month (a short ride less than 20 min. doesn't count), you need to charge it.
BUT there's no need to leave it on Battery Tender / any smart charger over the winter.

Just remove the battery as soon as you finish charging.

... about shifting ....

I recall, your bike has been down on the left side.
(Someone knocked it over, bike fell down on the left side, then got dragged for a little bit.)

So, it is worth checking your shift linkage and pedal.

 Then, adjust the shift pedal height (move it to where you feel most comfortable.)

Also, while you are at it, make sure the angle of the linkage rod and shift arm / pedal are correct (90 degree)

Right example
 (Shift arm - linkage rod 90°, linkage rod - arm on shift pedal 90°)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JM2tEEYrh4wtnmvAcmEi6WF0yGM0dm_bdcGairBtHSeZbf6OXxp0NEPUNnbAa9USklYt5_a22vneQbvGkJRsPwlmUNvaFKMKJgz_g9CqosAgwrSeaYzqSQRNOmIvgztN08TBzB0dUw=w2400)

Wrong example

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1932/45021499744_66446cfa84_b.jpg)

About grabby brake touch ...

Most probably your brake calipers need cleaning.

Many years ago, I made a thread but now photos are gone, it's pretty useless.

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=61878.0

Well, this is rear brake caliper cleaning, you will need to do this on the front, too.

https://youtu.be/78b7TXREc1c

What's causing that "grabby" feeling is the dirty piston(s) and pad pins.
Brake dust and road germs, they may even be corroded.

The cleaning itself is simple job. It requires to remove calipers from the fork legs.

Thanks everyone.

I finally got some time in my garage today. I've been working OT like you wouldnt' believe and when I'm not working, I'm sleeping.  Anyway, I'll have to see about getting a heater for the garage and some proper lamps so I can do some of this work over the winter.

That being said, I finally did a little work on the bike.  You're right about the battery- it needed charging.  I may just need to take the battery out for now since I am not riding too much.

THE TIRE...

I used an air hawk that someone gave me to inflate the tire... rode it in the ally, it got squishy again... finally, when I was able to rotate the tire, I saw the culprit-


There is a screw that has punctured the tire.  Can I fix this without taking the tire off- I don't know how to do that and I want to do that in summer actually when it's warm, I have more light and I might have time to figure it out if I mess it up.  I left the screw in for now- I'm not going to ride the bike, obviously.  Will spaying that goo in the tire work to fix it?

Nevermind... I see the patching video above with the wheel on.  I will try it.

This should work? https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1000-Tire-Repair/dp/B0006NE3KE/ref=sr_1_62?crid=2VWJEC7IQBYSK&keywords=tire+patch+kits&qid=1571591360&sprefix=tire+patch+%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-62 (https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1000-Tire-Repair/dp/B0006NE3KE/ref=sr_1_62?crid=2VWJEC7IQBYSK&keywords=tire+patch+kits&qid=1571591360&sprefix=tire+patch+%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-62)


 Thanks, everyone.  

Yes, it will.

I have used mine only once. My only almost-mistake was that the pre-greased repair plug became less greased while I handled it. That made it slide less and it almost didn't get through the nossle. Keep it greased by touching it very little/lightly.

Howdy.... me again in my own thread about my own bike that is a neverending story. 

Hey at least I keep everything on one topics... Plus it reads like a Ducati Novella when you think about it. 

So, bike has been sitting over the winter.  I am getting ready to plug that flat, bring her out.  So I charge the battery, put it in... let it run for a bit:


https://youtu.be/qAdPdb72dMw


Uh oh.  What do I do? 

It's italian! Isn't it supposed to leak?

That's the oil filter.

You can tighten it by hand and hope for the best. Next level is to tighten it with an oil filter tool. After that, it's to remove the filter (and all the oil with it) to clean or replace.

So it doesn't mean that I have a catastrophic problem yet?

I may as well change the oil and everything.

I take the cap off and put this thing in and then put in some oil?

https://www.amazon.com/KN-153-Powersports-High-Performance-Filter/dp/B000E2CVEM/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Ducati%7C1183&Model=Monster%20S2R%7C18680&Year=2006%7C2006&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=motorcycle

Not serious. Usually. The rubber gasket ring (can't see it yet) gets dry OR the filter unscrews by itself from vibration.


Don't buy that thing. Get a filter that fits your bike and a tool to fasten it. We'll talk more about the simple procedure after you have tried to fasten it by hand, both hands (get some rags). If you feel it's moving, it's a good sign. Try to get someone to hold the bike when you're on your back and knees under it.

No. Don't order that one.

This is how you do it. (Skip to 6:40)

https://youtu.be/QKN8XnOyXMM

Get HiFlo HF153RC, which looks like this

(https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/edcedced-17ff-4f2c-8927-829ade0451ef_1.5dee048df10160aae78bb23967f3948e.jpeg)

No, not yet.
You won't know until you try to hand tighten the filter.

I'm no wimp, nor am I a he man...

I can't get a Duc filter tight enough by hand. [bang]

A simple strap wrench works, but a filter specific wrench is better.

I'm left handed, and it helps a bunch.

But yeah, either a strap wrench, filter wrench, or the HiFlo filter with the 'nut'.

What I meant, was that if she can turn the filter by hand, it's way too loose, no wonder it's leaking under oil pressure.


So, .... let me ask a few questions.

1. When was the last time oil changed? And, was the filter replaced at the same time?
(Some people replace oil filter at every oil change. Some do less, like, change filter at every other oil change.)

2. Who did the oil filter installation ?

Please look at the video I posted above.

In the video,

At 11:15, oil filter removal starts.

At 11:35, what I'm doing is that I'm searching the o-ring that was on the filter, but came off of the filter
during the removal.
Meaning, it was sticking on the engine case.

At 11:40, you can see o-ring.

At 11:55, what I'm doing is that putting some engine oil onto the new filter's o-ring.

If, the last filter change was done by someone who's mechanically inept, then...

1. the old o-ring might be stuck on the case, and the new filter was installed on that old o-ring.
Then, while there's no oil pressure (engine not running), you may not see any leak.
But as soon as you start running the bike, it would leak.
(Double stuck o-rings won't seal.)

2. the new oil filter might have been installed without lubricating the o-ring.
Dry o-ring can be easily twisted and can come off while the filter is threaded in.



To remove the filter, I'd recommend getting these filter wrench.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/615XrdPe9EL._AC_SL1000_.jpg)

BUT, buy HiFlo 153RC I posted above for a new one. That will make the job a lot easier for the next time.

Since the bike is sitting you should do an oil change anyway.  When you remove the filter make sure no O rings were left behind.  Coat the O ring on the filter with oil.  Tighten by hand.  Then another 7/8 of a turn or 11 Nm.

My recommendation for a filter:
http://www.hiflofiltro.com/catalogue/model/4047
No idea what they are selling on that Amazon store, but if they can't get the photo correct...   You should be able to get one at any good motorcycle parts store.

How old are the timing belts?

+1.

Since this thread is almost 2 years old at this point, my guess is the belts are older than that.

Exactly my thought.

I did buy a filter wrench because doing it by hand was not happening.  I am about to go outside to try it.

I plugged the flat... about to go put air in it now to see if it holds.

Belts?  Are they easily accessible?

She needs an oil change- no doubt about that.  That looks fairly easy to do- easier than the fuel pump!!

Also I just felt it was better to keep this all in the same thread.  Sorry if  I am causing a problem. :(

The belts can wait. They should probably be replaced by now, but I think it's good advice to take one thing at a time.

Oil leak first. If tightening the filter carefully stops the leak..... GREAT  [thumbsup]

Did it?

My comment wasn't to imply that the thread was too old. You've done exactly the right thing keeping it all in the same place, which is why we can advise that the belts need to be changed. [thumbsup]

 ;D

It seems like it did.

I just filled up the tire and used the wrench to tighten up the cap.

Then I said a hail Mary.


I took her out around a two block radius, stopping in the middle to check my tire and to see if any oil was dripping.

My patch seems to be holding! (YAY!)


She does sound a tad like that rattling of the open clutch S4.  I am going to chalk that up to needing some oil (I hope!)

And she still is a pregnant dog to get into neutral unless I turn the bike off.
And she seems to not be dripping anymore however looking at the window, definitely needs a top-up but I would rather just change the oil.

   
        [clap]

I cannot find that filter on Amazon and I don't have a motorcycle parts store anywhere near me and I don't have a car anymore.

I am going to change the oil.  I saw the video...  Just need parts.

Gonna top it up with some oil for now.  With Coronavirus and Chicago shutting down all bars and restaurants and food delivery from the grocery store is now 3-4 days... I need my bike even though it's so cold out still!

Now, these belts?

Are you actually in a hurry to change oil? Maybe not....  Top-up for now and be happy you managed this much  [thumbsup]

Later (whenever that might be) oil change, belts and more.

Was the wrench you bought for a stock Ducati filter? Is your filter stock? I'm asking because buying a standard HiFlo filter will require another wrench. The HiFlo with "RC" in the desription will work with a generic wrench (not filter specific)

I got this.

It scratched the cap a little bit but seemed to do the job.

The bike hasn't had time in the shop for over 5 years.  I don't want to damage it more so it probably does need the oil change.

Mind you, I am 98% sure it isn't leaking anymore but I made a point to leave it where there isn't an oil spot to be sure.

I know you prefer to buy on Amazon, but you may want to buy everything you need from one place.

Besides filer and oil, you will need a new crush washer, which you will not find on Amazon.

(https://motowheels.com/images/M87753599.jpg)

Instead of buying oil from here, filter from there ... you can buy something like this

https://motowheels.com/i-23900139-ducati-oil-change-kit-motul-300v-10w-40-or-15w-50-synthetic-oil-choice-of-oil-filterall-ducatis-except-panigale.html

and add washer

https://motowheels.com/i-8518921-ducati-drain-plug-crush-washer-for-22mm-drain-plugs-shallow-sump.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9MSbub6i6AIVKB-tBh29PAFCEAQYASABEgI6KPD_BwE

(I know they are no longer our sponsor, but this is one example to get everything at the same time, from one place.)

Thank you for this.

BTW... she had an oil spot. I checked on her this morning.  It wasn't a flood-like before and maybe its just leftover from me running her.  I'll top her up on Thusday and go for a spin and see if she drips again.

I hope you are all safe and healthy.

Since I am stuck at home, I guess I will try the oil change since I know it hasn't been done in at least 4 years.

What weight oil should I use here in Chicago?   And is there a way to get a black cap?  I am going to order from the link provided.

Thanks.

10w-40 Motorcycle specific oil.

Black cap?

Cap for the filter.  The one in the photo is silver

The silver item in the motowheels link is a filter wrench. It doesn't stay on the filter. What difference does the color make?

I like black.

Spend more money, and have it re-anodized.

Wait...aren't you the one who is perpetually broke?

[bang] [bang] [bang]

 :-*

I'm done here.

Here's a black one  [laugh]  Fits all filter brands and works equally well both off and on.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-57020-Filter-Swivel-Wrench/dp/B003969PKS/ref=psdc_15708821_t2_B07P621W5J


Oil, filter and a gasket/crush ring (no, they are not made in black)

Amsoil GA251-EA filter wrench, black
Amsoil 10W-40 Synthetic Metric Motorcycle Oil
Amsoil EAOM138 (EAOM138-EA) filter, black

Is there confusion between an oil filler cap and an oil filter wrench?
DP's point about budget is valid.
 

(https://motowheels.com/images/F143884155.jpg)

This is the oil filter wrench. Not the filter cap. (ANd there's no "filter cap"  for this bike.)You already bought the filter wrench, so no need to buy this.

Oil
10W-40 (Don't worry about what kind of oil to get. That's Motul 300V in the linked page, and that's good )

Filter
Ducati OEM (You have the filter wrench, no need to buy the one with the nut on top)

And say "No Thanks" to CD Billet oil filter wrench.

Done.

A new problem:

I went to an appointment on Thursday... probably about 8 miles round trip.  On my way down, I saw the speedometer bouncing.  It was giving readings all over the place.  Everything else about the bike seemed fine besides the foot shifter always being hard.

Was a stoplight about a mile from home, thinking about you guys and what I was going to post.  Bike cut out DEAD.   People honking and mad as I tell them to go around me s I can go the side of the road (BITE ME!).  Bike won't turn over.  I take the seat off to check the connections to the fuel pump.  No beuno.  Some guy who came over to pretend he could help (who had no clue about anything really.)  As he is talking to me, I try the bike again. It comes on.  YAY!  I make it home, praying no more cut out.

Now she sits in the garage.  I'm mad at her.  Not sure what to do.

Could be a couple of things.

Bad fuel pump relay, bad connection at the starter relay, or a bad main relay.

The speedo issue is not part of the starting problem, but coincidental,IMO.

Will it start again now?

It should.  Its cold and raining today so I won't go out.

Are we where it needs to go to the shop?

I just replaced the fuel pump stuff.

Well, it's hard to diagnose an intermittent electrical problem, whether it DYI, or a pro.

It needs to mess up again to be able to conclusively determine what's wrong.

Initially, you could check the connections on the relays in the fuse panel.

Do you have a wiring diagram?

I do not.  Would be helpful since I want to replace the turn signal indicators since one is ripped and dangling.

I can't remember... do you have a trustworthy shop nearby? If not, go online and find a relaxed DIY'er.

They should be able to check, clean and lubricate the 10, or so, most suspicious connections in an hour. For both the stop and the not-start.

I don't.  That's how this started- the shop wanted $1500 to fix the fuel pump.

You can download a manual, which includes the diagram, form ducati.com

They only go back to 2016 on the Monsters at this point.  Haynes seems not to cover the SR2.  No diagram needed for the directional, only two wires to join and polarity doesn't matter.  I will see if I have a diagram for your bike.  Though it normally goes against my grain you could replace the two relays.  They are standard so any real auto parts store can math them.

I have S2R workshop manual in PDF, which includes wiring diagram.
Do you want one?

You live in a big city, don't you? There has to be more than one motorcycle shop..... doesn't have to be Ducati. Your issues are common and everything they need to check is in plain sight.

You said earlier you have a garage, so you can open a door and try and start it again - rain or not.

Why don't you also go through each connect, ensure it is clean and ensure the connection is good. You might learn something aboit your bike; it's how I learned and am no mechanic by any means. I grew tired of paying $100+/hour for things I deemed I should know and can fix.

Because my garage is half a block away.  Not everyone has an attached garage or even a garage that is part of their apartment building.  I rent from a neighbor down the street.  Not a fan of cold and wet if I can avoid it.  In addition, the garage is so old, they used to have a coal furnace to heat it.  There is brick dust everywhere and hardly any lighting.  When I work on the bike it has to be sunny out or I can't see shit in that old garage.  But I am grateful that I have one.

Yes, please.  I will pm you.  It would be helpful.  Thanks.  Maybe I can see about thee belts everyone is talking about.

There a few alley ones it looks like.  I never took my bike to one of those as I was told "always go to a Ducati shop" by other Ducati people.  I am really disappointed that after I put the work in my bike, it's still not working correctly.  I thought I did a good job. :(

Oh! Oh! Oh! I forgot one thing that I noticed...

The bike is smelling "gassy".  Not like bean farts but like gasoline.  There are no leaks that I see anywhere but I noticed it the last two times I rode it.

I just read something interesting that I might try. That shop book will be helpful if there is a wire diagram in there.  :)

Workshop, Owners, and parts manuals for S2R800

https://www.mikemo.org/bikes/manuals/s2r800/

<3  ;D

I have a dumb thought:

Could the dangling rear turn light be causing a short and cutting the bike off?  I am trying to look up how to replace that and see if I have it in me to attempt it this weekend since I got a stock turn signal to replace the broken one.

It would more likely break the fuse, but since it's going to be replaced anyway....  do it and see what happens.


- remove seat
- two nuts and move the tail light forward (just out of the way)
- unscrew four nuts under the beer tray
- catch the falling parts ;) if you can or let them fall. Make a note or take a picture of the parts' place.
- there are two wires to the license plate light. Label them. Disconnect. Might need two pliers.
- there are two x two wires for the two turn signals. Label them. Disconnect. Might need two pliers

- take pictures or video of what it looks like where the the dangling light once was. It might be important to know how to solve this IF there is need for creativity.

This is NOT harder than what you have already done  [thumbsup]

.... and please help here if you can.

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=78191.0

Soo.. it's finally warm.

Been riding the bike a little bit.  It hasn't cut out again.  I am wondering if the connector on the battery wasn't tight enough.  I came up with a creative idea with a bit of spare pick foam I had around and reseated the connector.  Sor far so good.

I haven't really paid attention to the speedometer... I probably should. 

Now, I am ready to fix stuff again, though.  I still haven't done the rear turn signal.. I probably will look at it sometime this coming week. That being said, the front right turn signal now is dead- probably needs a bulb.

But question:  Why is it bad to replace with LEDs again?  Doesn't LED have less of a power draw on the bike battery?

I wish I could upgrade my instrument displays... I know that is very ambitious though.

People still love my bike in the street- as do I.  I just want to keep her running, and running better if I can.

-V-

LED is seldom better, but always a pain to make flash correctly.

What's wrong with the speedo?

It was bouncing all over and not keeping correct speed.  I don't know if it is still doing it as I don't tend to look at it when I am not on an expressway.  I will make a point to look next time I am out on it.

Not important and most likely an easy fix - later.

Fix the turn signals first  [thumbsup]

Do you know what bulb to get?

See I actually have a set of LED signals but if I don't use those, I need a bulb.

Take the lens off, remove the bulb, read the number on it, and go to a store and buy one.

The LED signals will flash too fast. Sell them / throw them in the garbage. Buy the cheapest you can find. Ebay?

From well known ValterMoto (both or do you only need one side?)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-2008-Ducati-most-Monster-models-TURN-SIGNAL-ASSEMBLY-53040103A-S31906201/163661183222?hash=item261af778f6:g:FEYAAOSwM0lcvmQm

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-2008-Ducati-most-Monster-models-TURN-SIGNAL-ASSEMBLY-53040093A-S31906200/163661183206?hash=item261af778e6:g:gsQAAOSwV4xcvmQl

Cheap
https://www.motorcyclestorehouse.com/product/913603

So I took the light to Autozone to see about replacing the bulb.

Neither the guy or I could remove the bulb to look at what I needed to replace it with.  We didn't want to break the light.  Is there a trick to this?  Do I need to buy a whole new light?

I think she idles a little low now too.

Also, can you use LED BULBS at least?

Like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bulb-12V-10W-BA15S-SIDE-LIGHT-TAIL-FRONT-REAR-Motorcycle-Light-Car-Scooter-bike-/122239227249

Tiny squirt of WD40 or oil on the bulb base, then rotate to remove. Buy fuses when you're there. Take pictures to show the shop person what kind. Buy several and of different strength (5A, 10A a.s.o.)

You're not capable of fitting and making LED light work. Forget about them. Take our advice AND follow them. One at a time. Avoid chaos.

What bulb(s) to get

The part # of automotive light bulbs are confusing, if you haven't been playing with them for long time.

So, let me explain quickly.

First, the base type.
For these Monster turn signals (2002-2008 ish), what you need to look at is...

Anything that says BA15S has the right base.
BA means Bayonet base, you push and twist to remove / install.
15 means 15 mm diameter base,
S means single contact

However, 1156, 1157 bulbs, for instance, have BA15S base, but the heads are too big.

This is important, because the turn signal bulb has to fit into the very confined space.

If you want to get this done quickly, go to NAPA and get this one.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/LMA17311

(https://media.napaonline.com/is/image/GenuinePartsCompany/NWMDC?$Product=GenuinePartsCompany/1683733)

(https://media.napaonline.com/is/image/GenuinePartsCompany/NWMDC?$Product=GenuinePartsCompany/1647770)

Or, Amazon Prime

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Lighting-BP17311-Miniature-Bulb/dp/B000C902KM

(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71snhIxCHmL._AC_SL1480_.jpg)

They are the same thing.

Forgot to tell you this.

To remove the light bulb, try to push it into the socket.
If it's reluctant to move, try a couple of times.

If you can feel the movement of the bulb, simply push it in and twist.

There may be come corrosion, they may be just lightly stuck.

As for LED bulbs and LED turn signals, follow the advice above.

You are not going to gain anything, you are not going to improve anything by switching to LED bulbs.

Just ordering the bulbs on Amazon Prime, or go to NAPA and get them is A WHOLE LOT EASIER and ,
most importantly, IT WORKS.
Way better than adding register to your circuit and do all extra work.

If you have a time, watch this video.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_QVSJZdUNY

Thanks!

I just ordered it off Amazon.  I'll try again this week to try to get the bulb out.  I was shocked that neither the automotive guy nor I could do it. We were so scared to break it!

The odometer is definitely not okay.  It's bouncing all over the place.  I will try to get a clean video of it if I remember while riding. Not good becuase i am not sure what my speed is.. but I know I am not going from 60 to 120 and back in 3 seconds.

Rust/corrotion at components/connectors/ inside the instrument cluster? First: Open, inspect, clean and dry. Then: leave a 'rice' type, drying bag before assembly.

Maybe it cures it...


How about them other things?

Currently...

Stranded.

Odometer bounced all around, check engine light came on, boom... Dead.  And not near home. 😞

So I let the bike sit and cool down.  It was at 200F... I've had it FAR HIGHER before.

It cut out one more time on my way home...

Lurch, stutter, lurch... speedo all over the place- said I was going 160  I assure you I was going 20.

Check engine light, cut.

I can't ride her anymore.  I just don't trust her anymore.  I'm heartbroken.  I no longer have a car.  Can't afford one.  I loved this bike more than you know but she's just failing on me.

The turn signal is still out too.  I'm legit heartbroken.  I have an emotional attachment to her.

I know  :'(

Digest for a few days.

We'll talk options then.

I am trying to do some research (I can't go without any transportation. I can't afford food delivery all the time).  I am reading about bad fuel sensors and timing belt. I know the timing belt as mentioned in this thread before.

For context, this problem started to happen on the expressway but wasn't so bad.  I could feel the bike lurching but not cutting out- seem to only happen above 40 MPH.

Yesterday I was riding in the city so well under 40MPH.  But it was hot yesterday. It started to act up again but far worse than on the expressway.  I don't have one of those bike lifts in my garage... just a stand that centers it.  I think I have the tools to take off some covers if I need to.  I fixed that fuel pump, surely I can fix whatever this is?

Within reach to have a dealer hook it up and diagnose it?

Or an independent with proper diagnostic equipment.   Your bike's computer stores faults, which helps a lot with diagnostics, particularly when the problem is intermittent.

Okay, let's go through this one by one, so that you won't waste your time and money.

#1
The last time this bike was serviced at dealership (or Ducati specialized shop) was 5 years ago. Correct?
Can you tell us what work was done, at what mileage ?

#2
You don't have trustworthy shop / individual near you.


About the "timing belt" people are telling you

Timing belts have nothing to do with the problem you are currently having.

People tell you to replace them, because if they snap (while engine is running), the valve(s) will hit the piston head(s).
Which means, bye bye to the top end of your motor.
If this happens, there's no way you can fix it by yourself.

That's why the manual says to replace them
every 2 years, or
every 20,000 Km (that's about 12,400 miles)
whichever comes first.


About fuel sensors
Again, this is not the reason of your problem.
Read about them later. That won't fix your problem.


About "Speedo needle bouncing around"
Most probably this is NOT directly connected with poor running / engine cutting off problem.

There could be two reasons for this.

One, is mechanical problem.
Inside of your meter cluster, the base (where pointer needle is mounted and swings) is broken.
To check if you have this problem, you need to remove the meter cluster from the bike and shake it.
If you hear something rattling inside, that means you have something broken / came apart inside.

The other possibility is corroded connector(s), damaged wires.

Is rev counter (tachometer) is working normally?

The first thing you want to do is to find out why it's cutting off in the middle of the ride.

Take a video of instrument panel check-up cycle and post it.
(read page 522 of workshop manual. Turn the key from off to on, let the pointers to swing to full scale, then come back to zero. EOBD light should turn on, then turn off.)

Start from there.

https://youtu.be/3sRU0XVPFUw

... So, both speedo and tach needles swing to full scale and come back to zero.
And the bike starts, EOBD light comes on momentarily and goes off.

When was the last time air filter was replaced?
Also, when was the last time spark plugs were changed?

If the answers are "I don't know", then, I suggest change these items first.

Plugs are cheap, about $2 each.
(Champion 905 (AKA RA4HC))

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/copper-plus-3176/ignition---tune-up-16776/spark-plug-12874/b14eb31b13d7/champion-copper-plus-spark-plug/905/2623819

You can (most probably) find them at local auto parts store, like Advanced Auto, O'Reilly, etc.

If you have to buy online, buy them from Summit,

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cpn-905?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2LfQjO-P6wIV0RZ9Ch2NOghWEAYYAyABEgJS8PD_BwE

with spark plug socket (if you don't have already)...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mnp-08-0239
(This one, you can turn the socket with 19mm wrench or socket, or 3/8"drive ratchet handle.
The extension bar can be turned with screwdriver, 14mm wrench or socket, or 1/4" ratchet.)

Spark plug gap tool
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wtc-9531?rrec=true

... and dielectric grease (you'll need them when you work on the connectors.)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lct-37534

Take a look at page 307 of workshop manual.

Air filter

https://www.amazon.com/Ducati-Filter-Monster-1000-42610111A/dp/B00CQN8AMO

When you remove the spark plugs, take photos of the tips before throwing them away, and post them.

(https://res.cloudinary.com/yourmechanic/image/upload/dpr_auto,f_auto,q_auto/v1/article_images/2_How_to_Read_Your_Spark_Plug_An_Illustration_depicting_spark_plugs_in_various_form_of_failure)

After that (replacing spark plugs and air filter), check speed sensor on the rear brake caliper holder plate.

Look at the workshop manual page 211, and 214

It's held in place by small M6 screw.
If this screw is getting loose and the sensor is wiggling around while you are riding, it can send some random crazy number to ECU and instrument panel.

Then, remove the right hand side cover.
Look at manual p488 Diagram M.
"36" in blue color, that's the connector from speed sensor to main harness.
Check the condition of the connector, clean with parts cleaner, apply dielectric grease, connect again.
(The reason for this is because if there's corrosion in the connector(s), it may cause intermittent problem, meaning the signal from speed sensor pick up can drop, get back, drip again ... while you are riding.)

The reason you want to remove spark plugs and check the condition is,
that these bike came from the factory with really "lean" air / fuel mixture setting. (In order to pass emission test)
So, they shouldn't be covered with black carbon deposit.
If they do, you know your A/F ratio got somehow screwed up.

Love it.

I was thinking also the mixture might be wierd as the bike has been smelling very "gassy" (not like farts! ;D) but like it's not burning all the gasoline off.

I'll buy the spark plugs because that was ALSO on my mind.  But I can't remember what they did last time the bike went it.  Last time it went in was because someone hit my bike and dragged it a bit.

I'll try to get to these things this week or weekend.  Thank you.

So I got her working again.  And it was "none of the above" it seems.  Something was going on with my battery connection coming lose and I fear some sort of arching going on under the tank because some of that wool stuff is melted now under the tank.  But she is running and stopping her garbage... besides the right front turn signal is just not working, no matter if I change the bulb or the fuse.  But I'll take it.

So question... I'll put it here but I'm thinking about actually starting a new post that ISN'T about this bike:

The toolkit to my bike is long gone.  What would you suggest should be in an S2R toolkit and how could it be mounted to be unobtrusive?

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=57895.0;topicseen


Or maybe you don't need one. Ok - maybe a screw driver (Phillips) and a couple Unbrakos. Do you still have the under seat 'stick' to hold the tank up? That's useful.

Front turn signal: broken wire or loose connectors behind the head light. My guess.

Stick is gone.  Was lost during one of the times it went in for service.

The emergency tool kit thread is kind of useless right now, because all the pictures are gone.
(I'll try to find the old photo in my timemachine,  but I can't do it right now.)

The original tool kit that came with the bike was pretty much useless.
So, you are not missing that much.

Original tool kit

(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/OJoAAOSwr6xZneBe/s-l1600.jpg)

Spark plug wrench and screwdriver ...

They show up on eBay pretty frequently.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ducati-Monster-S4RS-S4R-07-08-Tool-Repair-Kit-Bag-Tools/292224751472?_trkparms=aid%3D1110012%26algo%3DSPLICE.SOIPOST%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142651%26meid%3D4ca188afb9d449a68e5fbf7f5f250cb8%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D302905109226%26itm%3D292224751472%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPromotedSellersOtherItemsV2&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219

There's a small storage space underside of you seat.
You can keep small tool kit and tire plug kit in there.

To me personally, the whole purpose of under shat tool kit is to let me get back home (or, to get to the nearest "safe" place) in case of mild emergency.
If something catastrophic happens, small tool kit won't help.


If you ask me,
the first thing you should buy (and put in there) is
tire plug kit.

Because, there's always the possibilities of getting flat tire.
No matter how well maintained your bike is.
(And, don't say "I never had flat tire." As soon as you say it, it's going to happen in a most inconvenient time and place, and you'll get stranded. Yeah, Murphy's law exists.)

Next, two CO2 canister (20g) and inflator.

Just search "Genuine Inovations CO2 inflator"

If I were in your situation, I would just get this one

(https://content.backcountry.com/images/items/900/INN/INN000B/BK.jpg)

$20, comes with everything needed.

https://www.backcountry.com/innovations-air-chuck-elite-inflator?CMP_SKU=INN000B&MER=0406&skid=INN000B-BK-ONESIZ&mr:trackingCode=77D95926-16A6-E311-9C6B-BC305BF82376&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=plaonline&iv_=__iv_p_1_g_49514702840_c_224495893170_w_pla-381242858838_n_g_d_c_v__l__t__r__x_pla_y_7811_f_online_o_INN000B-BK-ONESIZ_z_US_i_en_j_381242858838_s__e__h_9032106_ii__vi__&CMP_ID=PLA_GOc001&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PLA&k_clickid=_k_EAIaIQobChMIu_i3q_nI6wIVtBx9Ch34mAX8EAYYASABEgKYs_D_BwE_k_&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu_i3q_nI6wIVtBx9Ch34mAX8EAYYASABEgKYs_D_BwE

Some might say these two small canister is not enough to fully inflate the motorcycle tires.

You used those "emergency" inflator so that you can limp your bike to nearest gas station (they have air compressor).



Small tire pressure gauge

Assorted extra fuse

Assorted zip-ties

A little bit of safety wire

A little bit of duct tape (wrap around on old credit card, no need to carry a roll)

These thing go in there, before you start buying tools to put in there.

What is safety wire?

Safety Lock Wire

Typically, they look like this when they are sold

(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31jdoSbi1NL._AC_.jpg)

https://www.amazon.com/Malin-MS20995C-Stainless-Safety-Lockwire/dp/B005VR49D6

Often, they are used with twisting pliers ...

(https://cdn.toptul.com/comm/upimage/p_161123_01495.jpg)

... but you don't need to buy that tool (at least, for now).

Just get the wire, cut and roll into convenient size, keep it under seat storage.



When you, as a motorcyclist, get stranded on the road, the reasons are usually ...

1) You run out of gas

2) The parts getting loose and have fallen off (or dangling)

3) Flat tire

4) Battery is dead




About the gas, there's no easy solution for us Monster riders.

Back then when I was riding 2-storke that run on pre-mix, I HAD to carry extra gas (pre-mixed).
But, carrying extra fuel bottle on Monster every single time you go out for a ride is ... pretty unrealistic.

You just have to train yourself, to get a gas as soon as you see low fuel warning light.

https://youtu.be/k6jpwCfXsds

2)The parts getting loose and falling off or dangling ...

Assorted zip-ties take care of many of this type of problem.

However, when something that's generates a lot of heat (such as exhaust), you need wires.

It has happened when I was in a group ride (which I no longer do).
If someone's bike breaks down, you have to fix it, otherwise, everyone gets stuck there.



Of course, you need a pair of pliers, but I will talk about it later.

4)Flat tire

I carry "Stop and Go tire plug kit".

They don't sell the version I have anymore.

This one is the closest. And it will come with CO2 cartridges.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/stop-go-tubeless-tire-plugger-with-co2

(https://www.revzilla.com/product_images/0005/0371/Stop__amp__Go_Tubeless_Tire_Plugger_With_CO2_750x750.jpg)

Oh...  I don't think I have a low fuel warning.  I just know that once I get around 90 miles, I'll fill her up.

When I have gone on long trips with the stock tank, I strapped a couple of 1l bottles to the trellis up front using something like these:
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/wolfman-wolf-bottle-holster-wp?gclid=CjwKCAjw4rf6BRAvEiwAn2Q76tN9nR0lkBNc9kpL-5j3Iigd2f4Y6WK8naRsloPz8NoQzt6H-43GthoCnu8QAvD_BwE

But around town I never bothered. Gas stations just weren't that far away. The shortest distance to fuel light on for me on an S2R800 was 94 miles on the trip meter. Just the edge of Gallup, NM to just past St. Johns, AZ. It didn't take the hour and a half that Google claims. Normal highway riding it got about 120 miles until the fuel light, then I pulled over and got gas. Now the tank is bigger.

But S21 is right, there's not much reserve on a Monster.

That bottle is cute.

I think I've  run out of gas only once  since I've had her.  I'm really good about watching mileage and when she just "feels" light, I know her so well now.

Years ago, I wanted to take a road trip on her but now I don't want to take a road trip on her because I rode her 400 miles in one day a few times and that was miserable at the end.  Love the bike around the city and for quick trips but 400 miles straight on the interstate is not comfortable.

Just saying hello.

This is probably the last year I will ride this bike.  I think it's time to finally invest in a new ride.  I just bought a car for work (had to) so buying a motorcycle this year is probably out of the picture.  So I will try to keep her going for one more year.

It's been a hell of a ride and I learned so much from everyone on here and I am so thankful for your patience and help with me.  You have no idea how many times your guidance got me out of a bind and I will forever grateful for this board.

Thank you.

-Tek-

Congratulation with a car  [thumbsup]

Now maintaining the bike might become more relaxed versus stressful when it was your only transport.... ? What about a Scrambler or a new Monster?