Ducati Monster Forum

This is a problem somebody’s had, seen or heard about hopefully. My brothers monster had been sitting in a garage for a few months. A “friend” of his started it several times with a jump being needed the last few times.
I drained the old gas, replaced the plugs and battery. Bike will not start properly. That’s to say it won’t fire with the enricher on and start button pushed. It’ll kind of start with a couple twists of the throttle. Won’t idle, won’t rev. I suspected the ECU module might be fried from jumping it so I sent it off to Avanti Racing to have it checked. They said the chip was fine and returned it. Bike is still unable to run consistently so no change. If I can’t figure this out I’m dragging it off to the dealer in Louisville.
I’m thinking I might try a noid light to check injector signal? I’m at a loss.

What's the battery voltage?

13 VDC

Can you hear the pump prime when you turn the key on?

Regarding the ECU, the chip can be fine while the ECU itself, is not.

As ducpainter said, first make sure the battery is top notch, that means have it load tested!  The lever you are turning is a fast idle lever not an enrichment lever.  Have you let the bike idle a bit after starting?  If the ECU is at stock settings a bit of warm up with the fast idle lever on or part on, depending on temperature at about 1400 rpm for a half minute or so may be needed.

Hi all, my thoughts...

From cold, check both cylinders are firing (confirms coils, HT leads, plugs and ecu): carefully feel for heat from both headers after about 15 seconds or running from cold, confirm both headers get hotter about same rate/time.

if both produce heat then it's possibly fuel supply, need to check fuel line pressure as possible fuel filter blockage also injectors could be clogged from stale fuel.

If firing on one cylinder then swap coils and HT leads, plugs and re-test if same cylinder or other cylinder is firing, replace each swapped item and re-test until item identified.

If still in doubt then trace all wiring for signs or breakage/ware/shorting, repair/replace/insulate.

If still bad then check throttle body balance, vacuum hoses and air box leaks.

Finally, drain all fuel, inspect fuel pump filter mesh, resupply new good fuel and fuel filter.

Hope this helps.

Sean
Canberra region, Australia

When key is turned, pump runs till it reaches pressure (I’m assuming). The idle lever has no effect. Battery is Lithium Ion and new. The bike had this problem prior to battery swap tho. Both pipes produce heat while it kind of runs.

This bike won’t stay running for long either. Seems like operating the throttle constantly might keep it running longer than if left alone (which results in it dying immediately). During the time I’m fiddling with the throttle the bike backfires, revs, dies, picks up again but won’t run at a steady speed no matter what.

Fuel system blockage seems like a possibility. I’ve never monkeyed with FI bikes before. Was hoping this would be solved with tire pressure change...... jk

I'll bet you a quarter one of your fuel lines inside the tank is perforated.

Get that lithium battery properly charged and tested. 13V is getting low for one of those. 13 would be very full for a "normal" battery, but dont be fooled, lithium batteries are really 13V batteries so closer to 14-14.5 is 100% fully charged. If in doubt borrow a charged AGM battery.

Then check what the others have suggested after doing the battery stuff. Some very knowledgable guys have identified some items that hate sitting around in old fuel. [thumbsup]

Good possibility!  Open cap while pump is priming and look for bubbles.


  Best, since there is no reliable field test for those batteries yet.  New does not mean good, that is why they come with warranties.

How does a fuel line get perforated? Not doubting you, just wondering. I’ll check for bubbles this afternoon. Also I’ll take a proper metered reading on the battery which has been on a tender for two nights now. Thankyou for these suggestions. Helping to save someone money is a true act of kindness.

Even fuel line that is rated for submersion in fuel is subject to deterioration, and eventual failure. Ethanol compounds the issue.

NAPA sells immersion rated fuel line by the foot... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBGH209

Edit...One on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/Gates-27086-Submersible-Fuel-Line/dp/B005806IXA/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005806IXA&pd_rd_r=6c80a246-1fe2-11e9-a70d-111bfdf2d087&pd_rd_w=yOL2N&pd_rd_wg=kJCz2&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=7P3CFWMRCDFWK36D2CJ2&psc=1&refRID=7P3CFWMRCDFWK36D2CJ2

The ECU was mentioned being different from the part I had checked. After looking at a parts breakdown I see I had the ICU module checked. It was found good with a stock MAP intact. I don’t see an ECU listed on the Ducati of Omaha’s schematic. Are they housed in the same part?

Terminology...the ICU on a Duc controls both injection and ignition.

I just call it an ECU...electronic control unit.

Gotcha. Ok, battery reads 13.45 VDC. No bubbles seen in tank. I'm draining it as I type. Think I'll remove it and eliminate the hoses and filter as a possibility.

After removing the gas cap allen screws it came off problem free. I removed the 8 or so set screws to remove the fuel filler base. It's either stuck or I'm missing a screw. Is there a trick to taking this part off the tank to gain access to the fuel filter/pump?

Also I broke one of the 2 quick disconnects for the fuel lines under the tank. The part doesn’t show a part number but has CPC on it. I’ve looked up the company and found possible replacements but again it’s a part I can’t locate on a Ducati breakdown. Anybody ever replaced one of these?

There certainly is.

Take a wooden hammer handle and insert it in the opening. Put one hand under the hammer head, and give it a sharp rap with the other. The cap bung will pop right out. To re-install, grease the o-ring and push the bung back in. Sometimes...usually...it needs a tap with a plastic hammer.

Make a donation to the forum for the info. ;D

Someone added the quick disconnects.  Replace with metal.  Get extra O rings.

Lame shot in the dark, but if it's been sitting for a few months, did you check the airbox to make sure nobody took up residence?

Air box is clear. Filter clean. Removed fuel filter and pump (thanks Ducpainter). Pickup screen is clean and intact. All fuel lines are in good shape. None appear to be deteriorating. Looks like someone’s been in here before. New, no name fuel filter NOT in its holder but easy to blow through. Fuel still found in both sides. The pickup screen wasn’t lying flat either. One side was folded up against the low fuel sensor. There is some kind of residue in the tank. Kinda like fine sand. Weird. The pump was a pita to remove and I suspect it’ll be worse going back in especially if I get the pickup screen to lie flat. After reassembly I’ll start going down the lines to the injectors themselves I guess.

While you're in there replace the lines and filter. It makes no sense not to.

Put a little grease on the rubber isolator for the pump. Makes it easier to slide into the bracket.

Its been a while. Tank is ready to go back on. I've got two filler orings to be concerned about. One is a true oring and it's orientation is obvious. The other is a stepped affair that seems to have been glued to the tank at one time. It's loose now. Seems to have shrunk too. My new question is this; Should that sealing ring be affixed to the tank first? Has anybody else had this problem?

The other oring has been greased but does seem to need more coaxing than a hand push. A plastic mallet was suggested. Is the filler a pretty stout piece? Looks cast.

After reinstalling the tank, I'll check injector spray. After that I'm loading it up and heading to the dealer in Louisville.  [bow_down]

The green oring gets greased and, as you say it goes where it goes. The other ring goes on the tank plug, and can be a pain.

If the plug needs persuasion, a rubber hammer is the best choice.

It will be easier if you get replace both orings. The green one swells from fuel, and the black one shrinks from UV.

That said, it can be done.

Ducpainter I'm already in your debt mate. thanx.
New issue tho. My noid light reveals front fuel injector isn't receiving a signal. Thats the horizontal cyl.
Any ideas? I'm gonna do some research in the meanwhile.

Either wiring or the ECU.  Do a continuity test on the wiring.

So is it a direct line from ECU to injector? Is there a crank position, cam or other sensor that triggers the injector to fire? Has to be something unique to THAT cylinder. I gotta find a real schematic. Parts diagrams aren’t cutting it.

You used to be able to download the owners manual from ducati, which includes a wiring diagram. Looks like they dropped the older models when they updated their website, which bites.

Someone should kick Claudio in his skinny jeans nuts.

Yeah it looks like Howie provided the link in a few different posts. Defunct. It exists elsewhere I’m sure. The search goes on.

One sensor for both cylinders.  ECU operates injector.  Send me your email and I will try to send you a scan of my '04.

Using Howie's (big thanx!) schematic I've checked the ground side of the injector input. It's good. Positive input must be missing. Can you folks recommend a good ECU tech service that can test or repair this component?

Wish I could.  Best bet (unfortunately) is used and flash it for your bike.  Risky, but new is $$$$.  Mine came from a race bike using an aftermarket computer.  You will nee to either marry it to your bike or flash it to get rid of the immobilizer (my recommendation).

Bought a used ECU last night off the bay. Fingers crossed it’s as described and good. I’ll still need the immobilizer disabled. I’ve read a ton of threads on reflashing. Most are old. (2010) and the sponsors are long gone. Can anyone vouch for a reputable tech capable of doing it and who stands by their work? I’ve got a chap now who claims he’s savvy in the ways of chip management but he’s not mentioned anywhere on this board. Then there’s the place I sent my original unit to. I’d like an outfit someone here has used.
Also considered taking it to my local dealer and seeing if they can do it.

Where are you located?

Central Kentucky

A bit out of my stomping grounds, maybe these guys?  https://www.commoto.com/

If you are willing to mail it you might want to contact  http://lofgrenperformance.com/  or, if you want I will email my guy and see if he is interested.

Unlikely for anyone to guarantee an unknown computer to work.