Ducati Monster Forum

Hey Guys!
To make a long story short. I Decided to change the oil my self. And that was the first mistake!
I ended upp stripping thi threads in the oilpan/crankhouse, im not sure if it was on the way down or up as i used a torque key set on 20 nm wich i never reaced. I got the tips from a ducati dealer to get a Heli coil. So i got a set with drill. threading tool and coils + tool to set them.

It felt like i went well. How ever 20nm and it still leaked from theplug with a new copper brick (gasket). so i pulled it about 1/2 turn mor and now it looks like its not leaking.. how ever. now it looks like its leaking in the "joint" just above the plug. Did i manage to warp the metal or something? :( Is there a fix for this? can an experienced welder make it..not leaky? sorry for my bad enlgish and if i use the wrong words for stuff. Also i hope the link to the image works... New at this.


Link to picture: https://ibb.co/XXzzK18

A real test of the strength of the work will be draining the oil again to see how the helicoil holds.

From the picture, do you mean a new leak from the joint in the cases?

Give the area a clean and check for a leak from the highest point.

How did you clean up any metal shavings from the repair?

Hi!
after the repair i pured new oil, 4liters down the filling hole. with not plug in the bottom. then "filtered" the oil through a fine mesh. and repeated that 5 times.
I did also take out the plug. put a new copper washer on and screwed it back on. the helicoil seems to hold. i can screw in in all the way with my fingers and than use a torque wrench to secure it.

It actually seems like its a new leak in the joint between the cases....

Ive been in contact with a repairshop that is gonna take a look on in before i wreck it more than i already did, what was it Curt Cobain said? I hate my self and i want to die? :(

The joint is a few milimeters higher up on the engine than the plug even tho its only 3milimeters apart. i gues physics makes it impossible for the oil to "climb" upp from the plug to the join if it actually is the plug leaking and not the actual joint... Is the casings made of "Cast Aluminium" that can be welded? or is it som other impossible to fix material? My Mind is giving me all the possible dissaster scenarios it can think of...

Can the oil climb when the bike is on the side stand?

It shouldnt since the plug is the lower part when its on the side stand. unless its somekind of "capilary" works. but im not sure about the physics of motor oil...  ???

Clean the area well with Brakleen, and spray with aerosol foot powder.

The source of the leak will become evident. I'm betting it's coming from the oil filter, and running down the cases.

Thats actually a good guess. The filter is screwed on by hand and finger strenght. Wipeing the casings clean with a rag doesnt show anny leakage but maybe the human eyes isnt sharp enough fot that. im gonna get me something lika brakleen och how close i can come in sweden but i guess annything made for cleaning breakparts will do?

Yes, any aerosol solvent for cleaning brake parts is fine.

The oil filter on most models requires tightening to 14 lbs/ft, 18.98 nm. Not sure if the Evo cases are the same. Regardless, it needs to be wrench tightened.

Gonna try and get time to ride by the garage tomorrow and have a look. cant find anny aerosol foot powder even online nearby. maybe normal babypowder and a cheap makeup brush will get it done?

Maybe if you dampen the cases with water, and fling the powder at the damp cases. Otherwise, I don't think it will stick.

Ill go to the pharmacy tomorrow and ask for aerosol version then!

In theory. this hasnt happened (yet) if a heli coil springs loose an (God forbid!) shoots inside the oilpan instead of out of it, can it make anny damage or will it be safely styck there until the oilscreen gets removed next service?
Im thinking i should try and remove it and set a newone. its hard to get a picture but its almost like the head of the screw hits the pan with a slight angle rather than flat on. maybe that is why its leaking alittle at 20 nm torque...

The only way the plug can seat on the cases at an angle is if you drilled, or tapped, at an angle. A new helicoil won't fix it.

The way helicoils typically fail is coming out of the hole when you remove the fastener/plug.

Do yourself a favor and tighten your oil filter a half turn with a wrench...either the proper filter wrench if you have on, or a strap wrench if you don't.

Oil doesn't run uphill, and there's no reason the case joint should be leaking all of a sudden. If you still have a leak you can deal with it then. If it turns out it's the plug, perhaps a keensert will be the solution.

Found some "spray on dry shampoo" in the bathroom. GF wont miss that LOL, its not as thick as babypowder but it leaves a white dust.. and a female smell ;)

Will do! Ill get back after tomorrows exercises! Thanks alot for the help!!
I Bougt an oilfilter tool for this precise filter size so im gonna use that tomorrow!

That will work. [thumbsup]

Ok Here is a new picture: https://imggmi.com/full/2019/3/7/d9933b81729fe728adb26add05e29367-full.jpg.html
I tightend the filter 1/4th turn with a filtertool and wrench.

I cleaned the lower part with "Bräkleen" and sprayed it with dry shamppo, i also put in a new original oilplug and a new aluminium washer instead of copper. its supposed to be softer and it looks like its tight at 20 nm wich the copper one wasnt.
It still looks like its the actual joint thats leaking :(  the lower screw looks damp in the picture but that was just a "miss spray" i sprayed it again and its dry there. i just didnt take a new picture. Whats my best bet? An enginge rebuild? :(
is it possible to weld it (professuily ofc) or is there some kind of...bond/paste/sealant i should try?

Is that actually a joint between the cases, and a removable cover?

Yup. The cover goes to the "Oilscreen" im not sure you can reach the joint from inside ofter removing the screen and maybe add some kind of seal that way...

This is afterlike 3hours. its clear that its the joint thats leaking. Kill me please and make it quick!
https://imggmi.com/full/2019/3/7/a999fbf38db8a90d9f746da1f022314e-full.jpg.html

So, the joint that's leaking is the case halves, or a removable cover?

You won't be able to add sealer by removing the screen

Replace the O-ring under that cover?

Before welding anything do two things:

     Change the O ring as suggested by stopintime.
     No torque wrench?  7/8 turn on the oil filter after initial gasket contact.

Cheap and easy first [thumbsup]

Im takeing it to a local workshop. i wont spend another hour on my back in my cramped garage! :P
It doesnt come from the filter nor that cover you see. its the actual joint and its the joint between case halves and not removable :(

Sorry to hear. Hope its sorted soon.

How about draining the oil for like 24hours. Cleaning with bräkleen and than a fat string of jb weld? Or is that a Quick Panic trepair for the moment?

How about the two or four closest engine case bolts? One by one, remove, check, reinsert and torque check.

Thats a Good bet. My confidence tells me i shouldnt touch Anny bolts but om gonna ask the workshop to do it for me 😄

I totally understand  :)

DO you know the correct torque for them?

Not sure this is the exact engine but it looks pretty close. Look for part 31 in the upper picture. looks like 2 scres is pretty close to the bottom where the leak is!

Lost the Link... But look att this picture. There are 2 screws close to the bottom. Maybe tighten those a bit..

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Fimages%2Fg%2F8K4AAOSwhvFZCLiF%2Fs-l640.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fp%2FDucati-Monster-1200s-1200-Engine-Motor-Cases-Case-Block-Crankcases-225Z0032A%2F557324079&tbnid=BYBR7mfIvkuM7M&vet=1&docid=YkQhbwid0VWb4M&w=640&h=427&hl=sv-SE&source=sh%2Fx%2Fim

I can't see you picture, but all engines have evenly spread bolts.

On my S2R these 6mm bolts are listed at 9 Nm (if I read my shop manual correctly). Should be the same on yours, but that's just my understanding/opinion. As all around the internet - good intentions, but sometimes not professional  :-\

New try: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/8K4AAOSwhvFZCLiF/s-l1600.jpg

Sweet! My torque wrench starts at 20 nm so im gonna leave this to the pros. but it gives me hope that maybe, just maybe! They wont have to take the engine apart to re seal it! :P

Yo! An update after speaking to the shop. They said: The best fix is to take apart the engine and reseal it, but for a leak so small its not worth it unless there is more to be fixed while its apart. and its not currently, The best fix att this stage is to take a small file, and just drag it along the "notch" where its leaking, ever so little just to get some clean material. Then clean it and apply a thin layer of JB Weld or equal. So i just ordered a set of needle files and jb weld, i took of the oilplug today and letting it drain for a few days to make sure no oil keeps leaking while the JB weld is curing. If all else fail, They will take apart and re seal it for somewhere between 1500-2000€ so lets hope this goes well :P 1 dollar is about 0,89€ so... pray for me! :) And wait for pictures.

And its dry like a dessert! :D JB Weld For the win!

 [thumbsup]

(please save this thread for a later update. No news is also interesting)

Bravo [thumbsup]

My favorite dessert is Klondike bars. ;D

Are they drier than a fixed oilpan? ;)