Ducati Monster Forum

I've been researching stuff this winter and would like to get some input on how to approach a trellis suspension update on the cheap. I have front non-adjust Showas and the typical Sachs rear, I weigh 225lbs and am a new rider so this is for street only, and I'm fine with doing classifieds trolling and a little cobbling together. The biggest issue I've run into is that a lot of places don't make anything for early Monsters anymore, so although there is A TON of tech information and recommendations the threads tend to be outdated because the parts are NLA.

So, where does that leave me, when I don't want to pony up for a $1200+ suspension for my $2000 bike? I bought the bike because it was a deal and although I'm fine with putting some money into it I'm trying to be realistic. I'm sure there is an Ohlins or equivalent setup out there that'd sell for dirt-cheap just to clear warehouse space but that's an outlier, if those parts pop up I'm all over them. I'd like to keep the handlebar w/risers I already have, if only because clip-ons are another expense and I'm a noob . Here is what I've been able to figure out:

v1
- Race-Tech front and rear springs (linear?), 7wt oil, not sure of height
Front - .90 is recommended, do I go softer at .85 or stick or .90?
.85kg S3627085
.90kg S3627090
Rear - 11.2 recommended, however there are only 10.7 and 11.6 as choices, I assume 10.7 for a more compliant ride.
10.7kg 5818107
11.6kg 5818116

v2
- OEM plus approach, source stuff that is either a bolt-in or relatively easily compatible (swap in a new lower triple off eBay for an extra $30? no problem).
Front - M900 or similar adjustable front forks, or cartridges for the Showas; I'm probably out of my price range and level of experience with any real front fork work
Rear - ST2, 851/888, or some other OEM part that would receive a new rear spring; I like the idea of adjustment but the ST2's travel is 305mm vs 330mm, so basically a 1" loss and I'd probably need longer heim joints for the suspension hoop, and older Ducati shocks are under $100 all day.

v3
- v2 along with new valves like Race Tech Golds, a steering stabilizer (I wish Scott's still made the old Monster adapter!), and an upgrade to dual front brakes

v3 sounds awesome but at that point just spend the money on Ohlins or whatever, which circles around to no longer being budget. I like the idea of one-and-done rather that playing with 5 different setups, so if it makes sense to budget another couple hundred bucks to really cover things I get it. Thanks!

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Educatimonsterforum%2Eorg%2Findex%2Ephp%3Ftopic%3D77755%2E0&share_tid=77755&share_fid=36332&share_type=t&link_source=app

Potential help/direction where you want to go.

Does that link work for you? It doesn't for me.

It might be a good exercise to call your local suspension pro and ask what they can do for 500. Some may be able to do minor valve mods without buying expensive kits. For example, my guy put a Showa valve in a Sachs shock.

Fitting the correct springs is a good foundation. Maybe replacing the rear spring yourself and armed with the rest of the money seeing a suspension pro. You'll save a few bucks removing and replacing the forks yourself.  If you do, mark their position and measure it all up before removal.

There are suspension pros here who will chime in with more specific advice.

It works for me, but try this... http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=77755.0

Thanks, thats spot on. [thumbsup]

Suspension stuff on pages 8 & 9.

Good call, I've been watching Pinion's thread and have already bought some stuff from him, those cartridges are right on the edge of the budget (especially with used adjustable forks going for $250+)

Thanks for the comments on calling a few suspension places, I did plan an alignment and whatever if I get new tires this year. Forgot to mention, I planned on Michelin Road tires, the Diablo III sounds awesome but also not really right for me.

Used stock adjustable forks aren't anywhere near as good as what Pinion built.

They still use a junk Showa valve.

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=78042.0

I get that, but he started with OEMs so I'd have to get a set of those to start

What's wrong with the set that Dan posted?

Already has the gold valve.

Most the work (and $$$) has been done. Worth checking out.

2000 M750 model. Checking fork compatibility. Got a pic of your front end? Hollow axel with a nut on the lhs or solid axel? Front caliper bolts 40mm or 65mm apart?

Assuming the fork springs are within range for your weight Dan's will do what you want.  As said, the rebound circuit sucks but the gold valve and linear spring make a huge difference.  On the street, IMO, the valving would be good for anywhere.  Anything better will put you way over budget.

Dan's are sprung for a 200 pounder and vette is 225. A spring or two off, but still much better than stock. I was concerned about the '99-2000 year model overlap thing.

Yep, you asked the perfect question.  2000 should be hollow axle 65mm. but with Ducati you never know and most anything is better than that progressive spring and harsh high speed valve.

If the wheel is the issue, I have a 3 spoke wheel off a 748 that he can have for the price of shipping.

It's ugly gold color. :P

25mm inner hollow front axle, 65mm caliper. I PM'd him, we'll see.

What's the consensus on the rear? ST2 adjustable with a new spring and longer heim joints for the hoop?

I don't think ST2 will be anything close to plug and play.  What is on the bike now?  If it is OEM and still OK linear spring for your weight and maybe refresh the the oil and gas.  Raise the rear incrementally.  If I remember correctly you can go up about a half inch on the stock joints if they are now at factory height.

ST2 is too short

Yeah, 305mm travel vs 330mm on Monster. Ok, I have coilovers on my car and was hoping for adjustability all around. I've seen swingarms and other used OEM stuff really cheap, I wouldn't hate to convert so I can use the stuff for the updated frame/suspension but that's also its own project.

Since vette's a big fella, just the correct spring will feel great.
I'm 200 sans gear and just a spring change made a huge difference to the stock shock. It gets you in the ball park on a budget. Then you experiment with damping clicks, and if not happy consider the next step down ghe foad when funds are available. At least you have a good spring for the next step.

That's correct

I opened the uprights from Ddan, very excellent, thank you sir! I've been mulling over (and trolling classifieds) in the pursuit of the most perfect cheap-ass solution available, if only because I've got a month plus until my MSF class and might as well just do it "right" and be done.

Rant on.

I've done a little parts-bin digging for both the 851/888 and early Monsters, I've seen a few used shocks worth considering and still might pull the trigger. I'm trying to keep in perspective that I bought a new Tein setup w/EDFC for my Outback for less than $800 last year, I guess bikes and cars are apples to oranges but that's the price of a DU440 and you only get one!  :'(

1 - buy a new Ohlins DU044 for ~$500 with the correct spring rate, don't worry about the remote reservoir for attacking teh side streetz
2 - Get an ST shock, get 25mm (1") longer heims and a spring for maybe $200, there are dozens and they all have more support than the old stuff
3 - Wait for a used fancy shock (Ohlins, Hyperpro, whatever long forgotten early frame shock floats by) and rebuild it. I almost got a used 851 or 888 Marzocchi Duo Shock but its ancient and/or not worth the effort even when cheap, and generally used shocks don't save money

#3 brings in another discussion, the shock frequency and spring rate are quite different between the 851/888 and Monster because of orientation/geometry, so I'd assume that's true if using SS stuff or later ST swaps with the 749/799, etc. Basically, if you want to put some kind of SBK parts on a Monster assume revalve/respring necessary. The few used 330mm Ohlins I've seen would need $200+ for rebuild, new parts, etc., so its really only worth it if the shock is free or cheap, a used $300 shock will almost definitely cost more than a new one ordered to my specs.

I'm torn, if I go for it and get a 305mm shock for $75 I'll still need a $100 spring, that's assuming it's otherwise mint, I could end up needing it rebuilt and spending the $500 on an old Sachs or Showa instead of a new Ohlins. Ugh. I'm stuck in the rabbit hole.

End rant.

Buy the Ohlins...

+1

You'll breathe easier.

Manufacturing rate for car stuff is likely 100x whatever the peak was for what fits your bike.
Economy of scale is huge.


1) Yes, or spend a bit more on a Penske of the same flavor.
    I have not tried one of the budget Ohlins, but the emulsion Penske is very good on a Gen1 frame.

2) No, ST shock is an inch too short and IMO you can't retrofit new ends on it for even your whole $500 budget

3) Ohlins or Penske.

3)Addendum

AFAIK Gen1 Monster and 851/888 are same rocker and swingarm geometry.

Go new or as near to new as you can.
The *newest* OEM parts you will find are going to be 20 years old.

Here's some Ohlins data, 330mm length cuts off a lot of potential donors.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49807314631_524609abd2_o.png) (https://flic.kr/p/2iTivnZ)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49807314581_6dc5ab13ec_o.png) (https://flic.kr/p/2iTivn8)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49806758838_8a157b83fc_o.png) (https://flic.kr/p/2iTfEam)

Clear as mud. ;D

Good info but ugh that's what I mean [laugh] Sorry about the suspension comments, I'm happy to be wrong since it kind of gives me more choices, just trying to keep up with all the variance and possibilities. I went through the same thing when I did an engine swap on my Outback, I could have kept it simple but noooooo...

I've heard about and looked up Penskes, best price I've seen for the emulsion 8900 is $750 and at that point I get the Ohlins 440,the 2-way/3-way variations end up at $975 or $1175. They also seem to be a pain to deal with whereas Ohlins seems very accessible. There are some Euro brands/shocks to choose from but again, pricing.

I guess the answer to my thread question is basically no, aside from dumb luck, you can't really cheap out unless you own the 2002+ ST bikes. Ho hum, maybe I'll put it on credit.