Ducati Monster Forum

I'm on to the next project. I'm currently looking for a late 30's International D series truck. Like a D2 or D30.

Looks like this-
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/15/13/68/151368fc44ad697804a690bbe41df35b.jpg)

I've been scouring the internet and not finding much.  If anyone knows of of anything like this for sale anywhere in the country please let me know!

I’ll start keeping an eye out around here. Lotta old trucks sitting in backyards etc. What condition is acceptable?

I don't want nice but I also don't want rotted to nothing. It doesn't have to run since I'll be replacing the entire drive line anyway.

I would prefer something with no title but if it had one that's ok.

Essentially I need the body. I'll build the frame.

I put my feelers out.

[thumbsup]

I have a lead on a farm full of these in the Midwest.

This is unfolding faster than I was expecting.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/107411354657873/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A15cb8ed5-20df-4a21-a196-82c36c777211

 :o

I saw that one and had it saved. Great example. No bed though.

Even so, that doesn't disqualify it.

I figure it can't be that far from you and it's about as rust free as one can find for that vintage. Esp in the salt belt.

The salt belt. So true. What would I do for a bed on that one?

Keep in mind the end result will be trophy truck like. Or maybe I do something different. This is getting to be like work.

https://youtu.be/gVMAqzyvjis

Yeah that video is what started all this. I fell in love with the Art Deco look of that truck.

Someone somewhere will sell you a bed, or you can make one if you're so inclined. Depending on what you're putting in it, you'll likely have to cut it anyway.


Doing rust repair is worth avoiding. Buying something you can see first is also pretty nice.

I'm not buying unless I can see it. Some things you can do that with but not this.

Rust is like cancer. You have to be really lucky to get rid of it forever.

Those old trucks look great with a good wooden bed.

If I were to get this particular truck I have something less traditional in mind for the bed.

I looked in New Mexico’s Craigslist’s, but nothing.  We wouldn’t have cancer here.

I've done some looking around online in that area. Seems like everything is missing rust but sun baked to the max. Thanks for checking!

PM sent.

Might've seen one yesterday. I'll loop around for another look tomorrow.

[thumbsup]

https://youtu.be/awpIEMPBwNM

(https://ih1.redbubble.net/image.744192028.2395/flat,750x,075,f-pad,750x1000,f8f8f8.u3.jpg)

Dang.  Thought I saw one in Zuzax, but it was a few years too new.

If you ever wonder whether or not your car finding spidey sense still works I can assure you that it is still pretty accurate.

You guys! Holy crap! I found one. I have it on the trailer towing it home right now...

 [evil] [evil]

You know the drill....

Well done! Let the shenanigans begin.

Pictures or it didn't happen!

(Kevin might be too excited to remember....)

I have photos but no way to post them. I used to be able to take a Flickr mobile link and convert it to one that displays here but that code generator went off line.

Then I discovered if I opened Flickr in a browser on desktop mode I could get a good link that way.

So today I upload pics to Flickr like a good forum member and then discovered things have changed at flicker. They reset everyone's password so I can't get in.

I use the reset pw link, get the email, follow the link that takes me to a login page.

I can't change my password unless I login.

Currently waiting for flicker to respond to my help request.

Will imgur work?

(https://i.imgur.com/jp6b13J_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium)

Answer: yes

Wow!

Doesn't look like it needs a lot.

It's gonna get a lot [evil]

I found a treasure trove. All the guys stuff is in this condition.

 [popcorn]

Don't forget the built in bike chalk and tie down points!

Yeah because it will get such good gas mileage [laugh]

Going to do a spun aluminum tank in the bed

Air conditioning circa 1938

(https://i.imgur.com/etQnJTI.jpg)

355 AC. Three windows down, 55mph.  8)

You know it

GM LS engine for power?  Or…?

Looking like it. Turbo if I can make it all fit.

Someone put a mustang 2 front end in this truck and didn't really do a great job of it. The welds make me nervous and I'm not even trained to know what a bad weld looks like.

I wasn't planning to use it anyway so no love lost over cutting it out.

Mustang II front end.  Geebus…. I haven’t thought about a Mustang II in ages!  [laugh]

FatMan fab does nice front ends, but it seems you have a plan already. 

My most pressing challenge is that there are no bolt in/weld on kits for this vehicle.

I may just build my own.

Hell yeah. Build/Overbuild it.  [evil]

Time to buy a tubing bender I guess :D

IMO, you'd have an easier time just buying a whole aftermarket chassis and going from there.

We did a custom mustang 2 front end on a 48 chevy and it's not terrible. They make a welder series for builds like yours.

I've considered building a frame.
This issue with the Mustangg 2 front is that isn't built for 15" of travel.

Remember that you know a guy when it comes time to do the wood bed floor...  [drool]

This is true but, unfortunately for you (or fortunately?) it's an all steel bed.

The plan is slowly coming together. I'm not yet sure if I'll do single or twin turbo but I'll run a 6.0 LS and a 4L80E from a 3/4 ton truck.

That trans will stay alive at 450 ft/lbs but I've found the bits and pieces need to keep it together at 1000hp. That should do me since I'm shooting for around 800hp.

The LS stock bottom end (Pistons, rods, crank) will still be frosty at 1300+hp so I should have a decent safety margin.

On a positive note, restomods are immune to inflation.

They cost just as much today as they did twenty years ago.

Every cent you've got  ;)

Kevin, when  I read your posts, hear your voice..... But my mind has a picture of Tim the Tool Man Taylor,,,,

MORE POWER!!!

You're not wrong :D

Neither is Dave [laugh]

Yes.  :-\
I have one of those in the garage too.....

Well, I have acquired a 6.0L LS and a 4L80E trans along with *all* the engine wiring and accessories.  Right now I think the plan is to have the heads and block hot tanked (it's disassembled already) and put it back together with a turbo cam and whatever valve springs the cam wants.

I'll rebuild the trans to hold some power and then get it hanging in the truck.  That will let me figure out where it will need to sit so I can build a cross member for the transmission and figure out where motor mounts need to go.

Not to assume you won't, but I highly recommend mocking up everything possible.

The '48 I'm helping a buddy with has been a nightmare with the small cab. Brake pedal interferes with the column, steering column needed like three u-joints.

He finally has everything mocked up and got a seat in and discovered he doesn't fit in the cab.  [laugh]

Yeah I 100% am mocking up the whole truck before anything becomes permanent. I only want to do things once-ish

Supercharger and nitrous! [evil]

I'm not a nitrous fan because it's pretty hard on engines and superchargers just never did it for me with the parasitic loses. There's already enough of that in any drive train.

However, until I find a reason they are wrong for my application I'm planning on two of these:

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/gtx3582r-gen-ii/

(https://www.garrettmotion.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/GTX3582R_THUMBNAIL_0.jpg)

Twin Precision PT7675s Even come mirrored so you can do a super ballsy top mount setup with Holley Sniper Dual 102mm intake...

https://www.precisionturbo.net/Street-and-Race/ss/2-000--HP/details/Mirror-Image-GEN2-PT7675-Turbochargers/667
(https://www.precisionturbo.net/images/products/thumbs/667-1.jpg)

https://www.holley.com/products/ls_power/ls_intakes/fabricated/parts/820242
(https://images.holley.com/583x/820242_0218296.jpg)

X-Pipe for the inlet tubing to help balance the pressure across the two...

Follow me for more money spending tips...

$1100 for an intake and $6000 for a pair of turbos?

Bro. Stop [laugh]

The stock truck intake is still able to support like 1500hp and only has one throttle body that I don't have to buy since I already have it ;D

My current problem is the McLeod Racing 4l80e rebuild kit is on indefinite back order :(

Going to try TCS today and cross my fingers.

Yeah, not all of us are ballers like Ryan.  ;D

Is this thing done yet?

By some definition, yes ;D

Yeah, but the turbos quiet the engine down enough that you'd save a veritable fortune on mufflers.

I don't see any way you could afford to not do it.

[laugh]

Clearly I have picked the right group of friends

(https://media2.giphy.com/media/98jU7NxuNSSZ2/200.gif)

Think of us as the angels on your shoulder. Logic, common sense, and rationality are the devil.

The 4L80e has been abandoned and already sold.  With no ability to get a rebuild kit for big torque it was a no go.

The new plan A is to grab a Stage 4 TH400 from FTI.  Full manual valve body with a transbrake.

[evil]

There you go. A 400 will take about anything you'll throw at it.  ;D

Stage 4 good for 900hp :D

 [evil] [evil] [popcorn]

Billet input shaft into a Ford AOD nets ~1200hp with lower parasitic loss.  400 hydraulic pumps eat a lot of HP…

Hmm....

Plus it adds an overdrive, so that’s another benefit.  The info I shared was old, so maybe there are newer & better options out there.  IIRC, the front pump of a TH400 was a 66hp liability.  :P

I did some reading and read 45 or so.

Honestly half of my resistance is that it's an AOD lol. I suppose I could look at a 700R4 which I think is a TH400 upgraded to an overdrive unit.

I'm not sure I would need overdrive anyway.  I can tell you this thing is not going to spend much time on the highway.

It's a long trek to dimby.

It’s an International.  What could be more “international” than mating different driveline components?  ;D

Also, who cares!  Run what’s best.  Also, imagine the looks when that rig goes blasting past pedestrian automobiles at 90mph on the interstate…

Don't know if you've got power steering figured out, but I came across this interesting solution to project car PS:

https://www.thedrive.com/news/41845/toyota-prius-power-steering-works-in-almost-any-project-car (https://www.thedrive.com/news/41845/toyota-prius-power-steering-works-in-almost-any-project-car)

That is absolutely genius. I'll definitely look into that. Thanks for sharing!

I can't recall, but some of electric power steering units need a control box. Pretty sure the Saturn Vue box, the Equinox and a few others. There is an aftermarket control kit to make them work, and they have a knob so you can tell the box what level of assistance you want.

This guy does 'em.

https://epowersteering.com/purchase/product/basic-eps-controller-saturn-vue-chevy-equinox-units

I'm pretty sure I have one of those boxes, but I need to find it to see which one. You can have it, of course. Assuming it'll fit.

I'll try to dig it out in case you go electric.

Nice.  If I can fit an electric assist I will. There's so many unknowns at the moment.

At this point I think I will test fit/tack in place the entire truck to make sure it will all work.

Basically, the benefit of using the Prius unit is that if hooked up to straight 12V, it operates in "limp mode", which means it provides assist assuming the vehicle is at 43MPH.

I might know a guy that can get you a new unit at cost +10%.  ;)

But I'm sure there are plenty out there from a salvage standpoint (we sell very few of those units, even though most of our vehicles have utilized that set up for the last 10-15 years).

I will keep this in mind :)

Looks like they're around $150 used. I couldn't find a cost on a new one.

I would stick with the TH400 unless you go PowerGlide which is even more bulletproof. And if OD is ever a concern, then pick up a Gear Vendors OD unit. Built for up to 2000hp, replaces the 4" tall housing, direct bolt on and simple push button actuation/disable.
https://www.gearvendors.com/product/automatic-3-speed-t-400-mech-speedo-11/?TYPE=STREET-STRIP&FUEL_TYPE=GAS

Granted, that's a $3k investment. But we are only here to help (spend your money).

Yeah that's a nice unit but that cost :P

I'm having three pedal thoughts now ...

Do it!  [thumbsup]

I need to get  manual transmission back in my life. Four wheeled, that is.

I have a six-speed in my 2017 Mustang and I like it. For performance vehicles I really feel like a manual is the choice that's best. There's nothing like ripping gears while standing on the throttle.

Sadly, also works as an anti-theft device.

Well, the manual trans is all but a done deal.  I'm ordering a Tremec T56 6spd and all the parts that go along with it (flywheel, double disc clutch etc) next week.  I may have to add a transmission tunnel to the cab but I'm willing to do it.

I'm also grabbing a crate rear end.  Looking like a 9" with a Detroit Tru-trac diff.  4:11 gears with the T56 trans should put me at 80mph around 2000 rpm in 6th gear.  I can make that work.  The 9" should hold all the power I can throw at it.  Proabably U joints would be the weak link.

Tremec warranties the T56 to 700 foot pounds of torque  :o

Since I have a long bed frame and a short bed to go on it I'll have to section the frame something like 8-12 inches.  After that I can set the rear end, wheels and tires approx where they'll live.  I found a local guy that builds hot rod frames or whatever you want and he's going to stop down, take measurements and build some control arms for me.

I'm going to run the Mustang 2 front end that's in there now and see how it goes.  We'll build longer control arms to fit that allow a wider track width.  I'm shooting for something in the 75" range.

More to come...

Oh hell yeaah!  [popcorn]

Yeah... nah  [thumbsdown]

Really?  You're against manual transmissions?

Nope..  Only one auto trans on our fleet.  But for this application I'd want auto.... but that's me.

And this is your build  [thumbsup]

I have to rip gears. It's in my blood.

It’s gotta have 3 pedals.  [evil]

1350 u-joints will take everything you'll throw at them. The aftermarket makes some very stout units, spec a 1350 yoke when you order up the axle.

[thumbsup] Good advice, thanks!

Getting ready to cut 5-1/2 inches out of this frame so I can put a short bed on a long bed frame.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51789145207_c8d234ec07_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mUqUyF)2021-12-31_12-43-14 (https://flic.kr/p/2mUqUyF) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Just about ready to cut it

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51790596639_41e12a44ff_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mUym2n)2021-12-31_01-56-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2mUym2n) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I hope you have measured at least twice.  [evil]

Kind of one and a half times. I'm pretty sure I got it right. And, since nothing I do yet really makes a difference in the long run this isn't that big of a deal. If the mounting holes are off for the bed I'll just redrill them.

The entire rear suspension is going away anyway so I don't even have to keep things square for that although I will obviously.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51789423947_ea7233ebae_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mUskqx)2021-12-31_03-14-42 (https://flic.kr/p/2mUskqx) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Some pie cuts to allow me to adjust the angle of the frame since the front part of the frame is narrower.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51791191020_8606452d70_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mUBoHj)2021-12-31_03-59-35 (https://flic.kr/p/2mUBoHj) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

What are you using for a weldor?

I'm going to tack it together with a Miller synchro Wave 180 TIG. Final welding will be a 250 amp Lincoln MIG welder I picked up at an auction. I'm also going to plate the outside and fit a 6x2 channel on the inside of the frame rails as far as I can go in each direction over the seam.

I'm also going to box the frame and I'll tie that into the 6x2 channel.

I'm not a fabrication scientist for a living but I think that might be enough.

Sounds like more than enough to me.  :P

An old oxy-acetylene rig with some coat hangers for wire would be fine.  [drink]

He's gonna have to find somewhere to lose about 100# off the rig, or figure out a way to add HP. ;D

Okay so I started tacking everything together and couldn't stop. I fully welded the whole thing.

It's obvious that I'm not a welder for a living and I'm out of practice.

I can do okay on things sitting at the bench using a foot pedal but here I had to sit Indian style and use a thumb control for the amperage.

I don't like it at all compared to the pedal. I had a couple okay beads towards the end [laugh]

Everything I did will be functional for now. I'm really going to be relying on the plate and the 6x2 channel to strengthen everything. Everything I did tonight is more so the two halves stick together and I can get it off jack stands.

To be really honest, the 2X6 channel is over kill. Plate the inside, then box it, as planned, and it'll be plenty strong enough. If it breaks it will be at the ends of the fish plate...just sayin'. I don't actually think there's a chance in hell of it breaking if you box it.

Noted. I guess I'm paranoid?

Maybe a little. ;D...but I hear you, it would suck if it broke. The thing is, with too much welding in that localized area, you can make the metal brittle, and prone to cracking.

My opinion is the plate, and boxing the frame, will add all the strength necessary to the repair. If you want it stronger, get yourself an acorn table, and build yourself a tube frame.  By the time you're done your welds will be awesome.[laugh]

That opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it. :-*

I welded the inside and outside of the seam on each side.

Fish plate the outside and box the inside or fish plate both sides and box?

It may not be the prettiest but it's a start.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51791068204_7bfc0c1289_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mUALcN)2021-12-31_06-27-53 (https://flic.kr/p/2mUALcN) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I'd plate the inside, and box it. Grind all the outside welds smooth for appearance. If you can get a good fit on your boxing plates, I'd try a 90⁰ fillet weld, |_ , and if you get it looking good, I'd leave that as welded. If it's a little uneven you can dress it if you want.

One other tip I learned from doing bodywork for years...don't try to do too much with one piece of metal. Your boxing plates can be multiple pieces welded at the joints, and ground, after. You'll get a much better fit, and appearance.

Doesn't look too bad to me.

How are you going to treat the inside of your frame after boxing? You'll have a lot of bare metal inside there.

One possibility is adding in access homes to the frame boxing plates and having everything powder coated.

Or por 15 I guess.

Both work best on clean, bare metal.  :-\

Err.. Yeah that is true isn't it.

How about zinc weld thru primer? It's nasty because of the fumes. You have to wear a respirator, but the heat from the welding actually makes the heat affected zone, and the weld itself, zinc rich and very rust resistant even without paint.

Then you could do whatever you wanted on the outside.

Just something to think about.

The engineering department agrees with Nate on the boxing being ample. As a machinist I'm sure you're aware of how rarely engineers are ever wrong  ;D


Cavity wax is a decent option for inside the frame.

Just watched a video about 3m cavity wax. That seems like a great idea actually.

Engineers...lol. My favorite was a recent part we made.

Print called it 6 holes @ 90° on a 5" bolt circle.

I called the customer.

"You want 6 at 60° or stay with 90° and we'll drill two of them twice?"

Things are shaping up to look like this ---

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51796637737_f09a32d419_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mV6iQe)Screenshot at 2022-01-03 17-17-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2mV6iQe) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51797604326_cfd3380faf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mVbgay)Screenshot at 2022-01-03 17-27-48 (https://flic.kr/p/2mVbgay) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

See? Machinists can never read prints.

Drill those holes twice! It's our way of making sure you know what 90° looks like.

If two holes are elongated, we'll know you don't.  ;)

I see... It's a test!

I'm guessing aero will prevent the 261mph??

I couldn't know for sure. I'm not an air scientist.  Im just a lowly metal cutter ;D

In my professional opinion, probably no higher than 259.

Unless he puts a coupla snails on it. Then 261, no problem.

Snails were the plan from the start.  Looking to hit 1000 on the dyno if I can afford enough fuel system and then run 700ish on the street

Yeah, you'll be fine.


Until a Tesla Plaid goes blowing by you sounding like a Jetson's car.  [laugh]

[laugh]

When I look up 9" rear end widths is the measurement listed flange to flange on the housing or is it axle flange to axle flange?

LMGTFY... :-*

https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=how+are+rear+axle+assemblies+measured

I've read all those links already. I need to know, as an example, if I buy a 60" rear end of that's axle flange to flange or not.

I haven't found any dimensions from housing flange to axle flange listed anywhere and that's the number that really matters.

I have an email in to quick performance about this and having them build the rear end for me.

I must be reading impaired. I didn't see where you asked that question in your post.


I though you wanted overall length.

I'm looking for wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face so I can confirm 17x9 with a 4.5" backspace and -.5" offset would work.

I'm figuring 48" bed width + 6" clearance between the wheel and the bed (60 total so far) +4.5" per side of backspace would intimately = a rear end that's 69" from where the wheels mount.

All theory so far.

Wouldn't that be axle flange to axle flange?

https://www.markwilliams.com/axle-ordering.html

It would, yes. I'm using wheel mounting face and axle flange interchangeably.

Update!

I bought a set of F250 super duty axles and am in the process of rehabbing the rear.

It's a 10.5 Sterling with 13" disc brakes and dual piston calipers. 4.10 gear ratio.

Axles are 1.5", 35 spline and full floating. Everything about this axle is absolutely massive.

I got a Detroit Trutrac for it in today and when the carrier bearings show up next week I'll try my hand at swapping the diff and reusing the ring gear.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51876896150_be94fe8981_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n3bDRY)2022-02-11_09-07-22 (https://flic.kr/p/2n3bDRY) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51876332373_d04c4b5c7f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n38LgF)2022-02-11_09-07-46 (https://flic.kr/p/2n38LgF) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I killed one of those sterlings in my F350. :P

    Depending on the mileage of these axles You might entertain the thought of a complete disassembly,
    pinion bearings and hub bearings. Having rebuilt dozens of axles I have found it to be a better approach,
    You will also need a case spreader to get it together with the proper bearing preload. Not knowing how
     much experience You have I hope I am not out of line, but I have seen a lot bad "U Tube" rebuilds.
     Dana Spicer instructions also apply to any Salisbury type axle,needs to be right for big HP...

How?


Your not out of line, I appreciate the input. I have new carrier bearings coming but am going to try to leave the pinion alone. If it patterns good before and after the build I'll sleep mostly ok.

I may have questions for you later this week or early next week.

Dave can break an anvil. ;D ;D

I mean if your gonna be good at one thing go all in.

Yet, he can put a large object into orbit. Go figure. [evil]

It's just in orbit. Doesn't mean it will work once it gets there ;D

I don't think that part was in his job description.

Not saying there is a correlation (and I haven't a clue which company he used to work for), but this is suspect:

https://www.npr.org/2022/02/09/1079575679/spacex-40-starlink-satellites-destroyed

One piece at a time. Knight of Ni may have been involved.


With a rubber hammer.  ;D


Totes.


They all worked  :D


Sure was!


I never worked for them.

Good morning [coffee]

No coffee in this thread.

Post a pic of an old truck for penance. ..

A cool one.

Oops :-[

https://hdrcreme.com/photo-gallery/44713/old-truck-montana

Redeemed

 [thumbsup]

I had never heard of a case spreader until you mentioned it in your post. Did a little reading and it looks like a handy tool. I see a bunch of guys have used them or made their own with threaded rod and still others have elected to smack the carrier into place with a deadblow hammer.  What are your thoughts on the hammer method?

Best to use a case spreader.

Taking it into more pieces is always the way to get things on the road.



It'll probably be fine, and if not, it's easily replaceable.

Just give it a Krylon restoration and run it.

I'm replacing the carrier and bearings with a Detroit Trutrac

    Morning, the case spreader is needed to prevent the shims/ bearings from gouging the seating surface. Most often You have
     to remove, replace the carrier several times to get the proper pattern. Changing the pinion bearings will help bring things back to
      the factory spec. for those gears. You will want .010 -.014 in. carrier bearing preload if I remember right, hammering in and prying out
       ain't a lot of fun. I would loan You mine but shipping might be too much from Colo. and their not hard to build. All part of the Fun.....

   Another thing while I've got time, I don't spend a lot of time trying to get the "perfect" pattern
    with used gears. Focus on the drive side and get as close as possible, it will be fine. This looks
     like a really cool project, hope this can be of some help

But what flavour Krylon?

Another vote for case spreader.

https://youtu.be/bK7HJvmgFnM

I'll just get one of these

(https://images.fireapparatusmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/33316-file.jpeg)

It'll be fine

You never know when that may come in handy for another project.

Or DIMBY shenanigans...

I'm certain we can find something improper to do with it ;D

Update time.  I've made some progress.

I bought a 255 amp 220v/1ph mig welder at an auction last summer and finally got it up and running and moved to the house.  I needed to add some fish plates to my frame where I cut it in order to add back some strength so I ran some test beads to get the machine dialed.  I'm happy with the welding I did but I wish the beads looked a little better.  They're very functional though and nobody will ever see them when this is done.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916930695_4787e81a88_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6HQJK)2022-03-03_04-09-52 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6HQJK) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

My welding area - Miller TIG, Century (now owned by Lincoln) mig and a chinese plasma cutter that's really really awesome.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916313101_454b1d2636_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6EF9z)2022-03-03_04-10-12 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6EF9z) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I made cardboard templates for the plates, transferred that to wood and added in some offset to account for the head on the plasma torch and then cut from 3/16 sheet.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916410563_d28b7d49ce_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6Fb7X)2022-03-03_04-10-32 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6Fb7X) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51915345512_14fc1f00e3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6zHw1)2022-03-03_04-10-51 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6zHw1) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916314531_68e0c70e45_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6EFze)2022-03-03_04-11-05 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6EFze) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916318291_606e4409eb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6EGG4)2022-03-03_04-13-27 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6EGG4) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51915347077_7cee23240b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6zHYZ)2022-03-03_04-11-44 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6zHYZ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916316151_57bac7ecd9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6EG4a)2022-03-03_04-12-02 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6EG4a) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

The next order of business was to ditch the Mustang 2 front end someone added to this frame sometime before me.  They really didn't do such a great job welding it in.  Lots of areas that could have been welded weren't and a lot of the beads had bad penetration.  Kind of just piled into the joint and not melting into the parent material.  It took a couple hours of cutting with the plasma but she's gone.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916934635_4ce6495271_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6HRUF)2022-03-03_04-12-16 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6HRUF) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916316861_65fccbf197_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6EGgp)2022-03-03_04-12-32 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6EGgp) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916415723_43e39101f5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6FcDV)2022-03-03_04-13-39 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6FcDV) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I'm going a little unconventional with this project and part of that was I HAD to have some nasty looking tires.  That meant 35x12.50 off road tires and a set of plain Jane steel wheels from Summit Racing.  With the front end gone I couldn't help but place these tires to get a glimpse of what things are likely to look like at the end.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916933360_da97b9b3e6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6HRwG)2022-03-03_04-11-31 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6HRwG) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916935630_ccc82a89a6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6HScQ)2022-03-03_04-12-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6HScQ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916415003_fb57b49ec2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6Fcrv)2022-03-03_04-13-15 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6Fcrv) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Turning my attention back to the rear axle I needed to get new carrier bearings onto the Detroit Trutrac that I'm putting in place of the oem open diff.  I froze the carrier in the freezer at the shop over a weekend and then did the work Monday afternoon.  This device you see on the bridgeport table is actually a hot plate designed to help repair cell phone screens.  I borrowed it from someone it the building and turned it up to 175c (around 350f) to expand the bearings.

According to the CMM I have at the shop the ID on the bearings grew more than .005"  I turned an aluminum driver to fit the bearings and the mill spindle turning it into an arbor press.  It worked but the bearing only went on 2/3 of the way.  I pulled my driver and added a hammer to the equation and was easily able to drive both bearings all the way home.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916936985_80d665d89f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6HSBc)2022-03-03_04-13-51 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6HSBc) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51915350602_d73c5914da_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6zK2L)2022-03-03_04-14-01 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6zK2L) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I pulled the open diff and did a little measuring of both units on the CMM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916320266_64581c8055_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6EHh7)2022-03-03_04-14-44 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6EHh7) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Other than that I was able to pull the rear end and leaves from the truck to make way for the parallel four link I'll be building.  The axle that was in there was a ford 8.8 from (I think) a Ranger or F150.  What I thought was really cool was that the leaf spring mounting bolts were both greaseable. The bolts were drilled and had grease zerks on them.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51916416598_3ac0a4efb1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6FcV1)2022-03-03_04-14-13 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6FcV1) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Right now I'm in the process of replacing rotted brake rotor dust shields and e-brake hardware on the rear end.  After that will be figuring out shims/backlash on the ring gear.  Once that's done it'll go home with me for rear suspension mock up.

I already got in some 2" x 3/16 wall channel and I have 40 feet of 2" x .25 wall DOM tube on the way.  40' of that stuff was $700.  I shit my pants when I got that quote.  It's enough to do both the front and rear link bars and I'm already in for a penny so....

Oh hell yeaah!

 [popcorn]

ML tries out the new bluetooth suspension.  ;D

 [clap] [clap]

Nice progress, ML!

Like riding on a cloud

Thanks, man!  I'm trying to stay on it. I'd like to drive it this summer if that's at all possible.

Hard to stay on 'em.

I like to look at the small picture and make a list. Makes it seem less daunting.

I'm not finding any of it daunting actually. I have the large bullet points in my head and any small stuff that crops up I just figure out how to deal with.

Late to the party.  Just here to watch... [popcorn]

Don't worry, this show will be on for a while ;D

I figured you'd be done by now  ;D

I don't know why you would think that [laugh]

I got a long ways to go..

It's going to look wicked. Great work and its impressive watching your problem solving on the run.

There's no shortage of problems [laugh]

Definitely not happening this summer. I am still waiting on an SFI bell housingb that was suppose be here in January.

I've been working on other things in the meantime and will be posting pictures of that work shortly.

I'm thinking plan B might be to use an aluminum bell housing with one of those Kevlar explosion blankets on top of it. Depending on how long the steel housing takes to get I may not have a choice.

Time to try and get this rear end put together. Forklifts make great portable work benches that are also height adjustable.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52157257712_d888f3abaa_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nsXzA1)2022-06-19_02-04-08 (https://flic.kr/p/2nsXzA1) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

This is a full floating 3/4 ton truck rear end. It's sort of nice to just remove a bunch of bolts and pull the whole axle right out of the housing. Everything's fairly heavy duty and I think plenty for my application.

Here's one side I'll put back together. Everything had to come off in order to replace the dust shields. And, incidentally, I had to order two sets. This axle uses two of the same stamping and everything commercially available is a left and a right. And since many things designed by Ford are done by interns and not checked this follows suit.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52158275436_88efffff7b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nt3N7Y)2022-06-19_02-04-41 (https://flic.kr/p/2nt3N7Y) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I may have gone a little overboard on my rear suspension joints. I bought 2 in by 1/4 wall DOM tube and these are the heim joint kits that will slip into the end and get welded into place. They are well bigger than probably what I really need but I'm happy to err on the side of caution. Besides, big suspension links will look badass.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52158285153_19f706049f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nt3R1v)2022-06-19_02-05-43 (https://flic.kr/p/2nt3R1v) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Big.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52158773910_359816309d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nt6mim)2022-06-19_02-06-32 (https://flic.kr/p/2nt6mim) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

This is the rear end basically sitting in place. I kind of guessed along with some rough measurements. I did have some friends come down and help me put the bed on so that I can check for fore/aft placement and it looks like I got that right. Made some marks on the frames so that I can put the housing back in the same spot later on.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52158520094_4405f5e3ef_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nt53Rd)2022-06-19_02-06-53 (https://flic.kr/p/2nt53Rd) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I'm 100% in love with the look!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52158288753_e0b7efccac_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nt3S5z)2022-06-19_02-07-08 (https://flic.kr/p/2nt3S5z) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52157267367_cf24cd2b6b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nsXCst)2022-06-19_02-07-53 (https://flic.kr/p/2nsXCst) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Lovin' this  [thumbsup]

 [popcorn]

Now to the front axle. I found myself with a decision to make since I wanted heavy duty brakes and components but did not need a differential. So I decided on the F-250 four-wheel drive front axle housing with differential delete. The plan is to cut the ends off, machine the factory axle tube out of them, fit them onto my own steel pipe and weld into place.

I clamped the housing to the forks on my forklift and sort of positioned it in their right spot so that my harbor freight saw was able to come down and cut through the tube. There was no other way to get this onto the saw. I will admit that there was an incident involving gravity and this axle housing but I still have all my fingers so we're just going to leave it at that.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52158285661_568e09fa91_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nt3Rag)2022-06-19_02-08-32 (https://flic.kr/p/2nt3Rag) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Here you can see one of the ends fixtured on my Bridgeport. The goal was to only remove the factory tube and not at all enlarge the bore in the knuckle. Is it a knuckle? I honestly don't know what this particular piece is called. It's the c shaped thingy that gets welded on the axle tubes and all the rest of the bits bolt to it with ball joints.

So I got it on the Bridgeport and used an indexable cutter to basically plunge out four corners and chisel out the bits. But actually worked pretty well the first time around.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52158294103_d06ddb24a9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nt3TEP)2022-06-19_02-09-30 (https://flic.kr/p/2nt3TEP) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52157271587_e9dff0b2e4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nsXDHe)2022-06-19_02-09-40 (https://flic.kr/p/2nsXDHe) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I took a lot of intensive measurements to figure out what width I needed to cut this tube to and got it to within about a quarter inch total of what I wanted. No complaints.

The downside is that it wasn't very round and needed a lot of sanding to bring it down close enough to the bore on these axle ends. From the factory they are pressed on and welded around the outside of the tube with about a 3/8 fill it weld. 10 mm for my overseas friends.

I was not comfortable welding on these since they are cast steel. Even though cast steel is fully weldable I don't have any experience with it and I don't want this to be my learning piece.  

I was able to use a pipe sander to get the tube close enough that I was able to hammer the ends on. It was a tight enough fit that they easily stayed in position but a hammer was also able to rotate them a little bit. I needed each side to be at the same angle after all.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52157272077_c36fec8a61_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nsXDRF)2022-06-19_02-09-52 (https://flic.kr/p/2nsXDRF) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52158289236_3ec76f9587_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nt3SdU)2022-06-19_02-10-11 (https://flic.kr/p/2nt3SdU) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I was able to get each end hammered on and rotated to within .3° of each other.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52158783500_67ea2ec108_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nt6p9G)2022-06-19_02-10-20 (https://flic.kr/p/2nt6p9G) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Once I had them on I used my TIG welder to tack the faces so that they stayed in place. That actually went so well I went fully around each face with the TIG welder. It was honestly some of the best beads I've ever had in steel in my life. I'm either getting better or the stars aligned. Possibly a bit of both.

Nobody around here wanted to weld it for liability reasons and I ended up at a hole in the wall machine shop about 2 hours from here that specialized in axle work and did a ton of work for guys in the pulling truck circuits. He came highly recommended. His wells are not what I would call amazing looking but they are 100% functional in my opinion. Totally worth $100 cash.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52157273842_cbc0da05bc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nsXEo7)2022-06-19_02-10-38 (https://flic.kr/p/2nsXEo7) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Front brake caliper. Big.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52158529484_ea6e6d22fb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nt56D7)2022-06-19_02-10-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2nt56D7) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I have the truck more or less at the ride height that I would like to end up with and currently that means the front axle tube and the frame will share some space.

Right now the plan is to zee the frame over that front tube maybe about 6 in. I'm shooting for around 4 in of travel in each direction from static ride height.

I'll probably do that and add some suspension hoops for coilover shocks and springs. I'm thinking triangulated four link for the rear and a parallel four link with a panhard bar for the front if I have room.

Additionally I have to fit a steering box and the crossover steering mechanism that the f250s run.

Once I get a bell housing I can put my engine and transmission together and sort of hang them in place where I'd like them to be and start to see what hits what.

All the suspension stuff I think I'm just going to tack into place so that I can move things later on if I absolutely have to.

I probably also have adding a transmission tunnel to the floor in my future but that is an unknown until I can physically get a transmission hanging onto the frame.

More to come...

Anything to help you heal up faster my friend!

Awesome!

 [evil] [evil]

 [clap]

Nice. So it'll be done soon?  [laugh]

Looking good man!

Very cool.  [thumbsup]

Bravo. That's a make the beast with two backsin big Tonka toy. [clap]

Likely on the road next summer.

DIMBY 2023!!!

...or OTIMBY?

Seems reasonable!

That would be a looooog way to go in this thing [laugh]

 [Dolph] [Dolph]

Says the guy that used to ride here. [laugh]

New frame design to clear the front axle tube
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52189680075_6fb62cc9bb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nvPKCg)2022-07-02_05-39-51 (https://flic.kr/p/2nvPKCg) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52189195911_38c88834b0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nvMgGB)2022-07-02_05-40-08 (https://flic.kr/p/2nvMgGB) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

It would be swell if this works

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52191679739_230c95b215_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nw114e)2022-07-03_04-31-39 (https://flic.kr/p/2nw114e) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I've never seen a joggle like that done with the frame removed before.  :P

How else could you do it?  Old and new can't take up the same space

Weld the notch in place and then the part under the hump gets cut off.

Like this:

(https://static.streetsource.com/photos/2015/292/449196/l.jpg)

Interesting. Everything I cut off is being replaced though. No material to weld to on the front half

..... somebody say... DIMBY?   ;D

I guess I should update. That last month or so has been a struggle. I have had problem after problem with my mig welder. On top of that, with mig, I'm at the bottom of the learning curve as far as troubleshooting. Thankfully one of my employees has years of experience with mig and has been coaching me through it.

Welding on the bench is cake. Anyone can do it. Welding on a vehicle, out of position, using muscles you don't even have is a challenge.

I can't tell you how many welds I did, hated, then ground out only to repeat the process.

Fun fact, just because things go well on an, for example, outside corner joint that's horizontal does not mean the same settings will work on the same joint at any other angle. It's wild. Gravity plays a big part as well.

I had so many bad welds I resorted to welding test coupons that mimicked the joint and angle so I had at least a chance of getting settings close enough to produce a good (enough) weld. Since the section of frame I'm adding will support the engine, front suspension and steering my life is depending on the quality of this work.

I never got the hang of vertical up but vertical down I could make work. So that's what I ran on the truck. Whatever worked best on test coupons was the winner.

In the end, the welds are functional.  I hate them all and wish they were better looking.

It begins-
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286011558_d7e922b217_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEktBU)2022-08-14_06-44-14 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEktBU) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286271259_0a590a6033_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEmNPv)2022-08-14_06-44-31 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEmNPv) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Had to use an old splitting maul to force the rails into position. Use what you have and all.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286007041_2b091fdf3b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEksh2)2022-08-14_06-44-44 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEksh2) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

One side plated and tacked together
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286272149_abbee92d0d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEmP5R)2022-08-14_06-45-08 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEmP5R) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Two shots of the old frame on the floor directly under the new frame. Nice that the angles matched. The second pic I shifted to one side to get rid of the parallax. If I had this wrong the old frame
rail on the one side would be visible under the new frame. Success!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286272469_4d401b5fc9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEmPbn)2022-08-14_06-45-25 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEmPbn) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286008216_e704b9150b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEksCh)2022-08-14_06-45-34 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEksCh) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Rather than build more shit than I needed to I decided to try and reuse the core support.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52285029182_6c85c7c521_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEfrAo)2022-08-14_06-45-43 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEfrAo) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Too bad I trimmed too much and now have some huge gaps to contend with. Whatever. I'll handle it. I was at least able to tack it into place.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286013958_a473a52253_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEkukh)2022-08-14_06-45-54 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEkukh) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Here you can see that the rear half of the support's attachment area is gone. I decided to box the underside with 3/16 plate. The plan is to trim off that corner flap and then make a triangular piece of steel to fit the gap and tie in the frame to the plating I added underneath.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286014303_11ce95c35d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEkure)2022-08-14_06-46-02 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEkure) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286014588_d844923bcb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEkuw9)2022-08-14_06-46-11 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEkuw9) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Strong, like bull.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286497060_dce94d5a0e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEnXWC)2022-08-14_06-46-18 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEnXWC) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

And of course, I needed to refit the cowl and hood to make sure everything was going to go back where it came from. What a dumbass I would be if I fully welded everything and then found I'd made a mistake. I'm not going to be that guy.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286009916_abc19a3ba4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEkt8A)2022-08-14_06-46-32 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEkt8A) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

It will need some slight adjustments to fit exactly the way it did before I cut the frame. All of those adjustments are well within the range that came from the factory. I am good to go!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286497745_5e2b68497c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEnY9r)2022-08-14_06-46-40 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEnY9r) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Here's one of the issues I had with my welder. This was a very bad day at the office lol. I had run out of wire and replaced it with a spool that I bought a couple months ago. It would run good, then it would run terrible. I mean really terrible. The picture shows the cause. Rather than feeding nicely off the spool the wire was getting pulled into itself.

As it turns out the package must have been damaged and shipping and the plastic drum that the wire is wound on to was broken almost in half. The internet said there's nothing you can do but throw it away and get a good spool. I really didn't want to do that since I really wanted to keep working.

As it turns out a 2-in hole saw will fit the ID of my old empty drum. So I set up a contraption to feed all of the new wire onto the old drum. I used a cordless drill to turn it and use my fingers to guide it back and forth. While it's not very pretty it has so far been 100% functional!

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52285031082_60f5a15914_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEfsa9)2022-08-14_06-46-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEfsa9) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Today I was able to cut two fish plates out and get them welded into place on the right frame rail. I'm out of steel so until I get some more work is at a standstill. Fish plating the other side will finish the frame rails. All that will be left will be to fully tie in the core support.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52286275944_ca76a458f9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEmQdh)2022-08-14_06-47-35 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEmQdh) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I love it.

Looks great!

Thank you both!

How's the engine coming along?

Slow but steady. I have a ton of time into cleaning things that would be reused. There was a substantial layer of grime on all kinds of things.

The block is back from the machine shop where I had it decked for flatness (heads too) I also had them install new cam bearings and hone the bores so the rings have something fresh to seat on.

Block has been painted Lunar Rock (a cool grey Toyota color)

Currently the crank and new bearings are in but I'm waiting on a torque angle gage to show up so I can torque the main caps.

15 ft/lbs then an additional 80° on the inner and 51° extra on the outer bolts.

I have the heads reassembled and ready to go.

I lapped all the valves and all the exhaust valves were pitted and only had like 50% seat contact so I replaced them all. Intakes all got reused, cleaned and lapped.

I also replaced all the valve springs as that was recommended by Brian Tooley Racing to go along with their Truck Norris cam.

It's starting to look like my 1000bhp goal will be easy to achieve. I may need to upgrade that to 1000rwhp.

 [evil]

I watched a friend of mine blow out the differential on his 1,000+HP Viper years ago.  It was the weakest link.  Doesn't seem like you'll see the same fate.

It's hard to say. I think the real issue will be traction and once tires break loose no amount of power will break anything.

I built a 10.5" 3/4 ton rear end and I'm told the pinion will break before anything since it's a smaller diameter shaft.

Who knows though. I'm just gonna give her the beans and fix whatever breaks using stronger stuff

Atta boy!

Yes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_st_a-7lx_A

Nice update - I love how it's all looking! Re-winding that spool of wire sounds like something I'd do as I'm a cheap bastard and two hours round trip from any welding supply shop. Of course, it'd probably take me three hours to accomplish, so it all boils down to the cheap bastard part.

You've head the phrase adapt and overcome, I'm sure.

It was a matter of principal. I wasn't throwing that spool away [laugh]

You're quite mad.  Beautifully, willfully mad  [thumbsup]

Keep up the insanity  ;D

Trust me, I very much appreciate the support [evil]

Great workaround with the front end. I swear I've seen that sturdy and innovative solution somewhere before... [thumbsup] ;D

https://www.google.com/search?q=sydney+harbour+bridge&client=tablet-android-samsung&prmd=inmv&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj7-9erie76AhUVJrkGHQFaAYYQ_AUoAXoECAEQAQ&biw=1024&bih=600&dpr=1#imgrc=EghbgbAzck2K9M

We can call it innovative after it works ;D

I just found out my clutch will only hold 750 horsepower.

That won't do  [evil]

..it'll do for a short while  [evil]

:D

...until it doesn't. [laugh]

Okay it's update time. I have been slacking on posting pictures and whatnot.

Things have been progressing well but still slow.  And by slow, I mean roadblock after roadblock. I knew it would be like this since everything I'm doing with this vehicle, well, none of it was ever intended to happen to this vehicle when International designed it.

Adapt and overcome.

After I got the frame all welded together in the front, I rolled my axle underneath it and promptly discovered that most of my steering linkage interferes with the underside of the very front of the frame before I can even get the axle rotated all the way into position.

Currently, I'm going to explore adapting a steering rack directly to the axle tube and using a slip joint for the steering input. This is a hair brained idea me and a buddy came up with in the garage. I got on the internet and almost immediately found some kits for late '50s or '60s Ford pickup trucks that do exactly this. It's a steering rack that mounts directly to a solid i-beam front axle and uses a slip joint to allow suspension articulation.

Gets rid of the need for a steering box which I like and provides more precise steering which i also like. However, this will require more engineering. So it goes.

So in order to figure out how all the steering is going to work out, I thought it would be a good idea to have a completed engine and transmission in place.

And that's where things are at currently.  Pics in the next post.

The engine is a 6.0 l Chevy LS V8. Technically it is an LQ4 engine which is an iron block from a work truck or van.  The pistons have a dish to them and no valve reliefs cut into them. This is one of the lower compression LS engines at 9.4 to 1. That will work fine for boost. This thing will see a lot of it.

This particular engine came from a friend of mine who bought it from a running vehicle off of craigslist. My buddy then promptly brought it home, took it apart with an impact gun and threw all the parts in a tub. Well three tubs to be exact.

The insides of this engine were in remarkable shape for something with 160,000 mi on it. It is obviously been neglected as, I believe, both the valve cover gaskets were toast and puking oil all over the sides of the engine. Literally the entire engine was coated in a quarter inch thick film of dirt and grease and oil. It was thoroughly waterproof. That's 6 mm for my metric friends.

How the heads looked when I started
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586253365_01764f57e1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Si3M)2022-12-25_06-01-52 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Si3M) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I had dropped the block off at the machine shop to have it hot tanked, the head surface is decked for flatness, hone the cylinders and install new cam bearings. They advise me they were not able to hot tank the heads because they were aluminum and the chemicals would dissolve it.

That means I had to clean it myself. I discovered this miracle liquid called chem dip. It was like $40 a gallon which I did not like but after seeing how well it worked it was worth it. I bought four gallons is that's all I could find locally and dump them into a 5 gallon bucket. I was able to soak half the head at a time.

Essentially it's soak it for a couple hours, scrub the daylights out of it and resoak it. This stuff is technically for cleaning carburetors but it destroys all oils and gunk.

In process-
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586078704_1e46d07649_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Rp8o)2022-12-25_06-02-06 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Rp8o) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586335738_5c09d5d7b6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SHx1)2022-12-25_06-02-19 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SHx1) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586079379_cefcb2b0f9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Rpk2)2022-12-25_06-02-33 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Rpk2) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52585820011_afce6cf00f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q5ea)2022-12-25_06-03-08 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q5ea) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

My conscience got the better of me and I ended up taking the heads back to the shop to have those services cut as well. I figured for the things I have planned for this engine. I might as well start off with the most chances of having it survived. That means flathead gasket surfaces.

Time to paint that block. I've been really taken with a lot of the newer colors I'm seeing from most car manufacturers these days. They're glossy but not metallic. I like to refer to them as solid colors if that makes any sense.  The color I chose for this engine is from Toyota and is called lunar rock.

I hung the block at the shop and got busy with the needle scaler busting off all the stuff that the hot tank didn't just get off by itself.

Then it was a thorough cleaning with brake cleaner and primer, base coat, clear coat after that. I do not claim to be a painter but this stuff came out pretty good. The local paint shop was able to load up an aerosol can of the base so all I had to do was point and shoot basically.

The color is difficult to realize by looking at a picture. And even in person, the color does look different in sunlight versus under fluorescent lights.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586255825_aeeb573691_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SiMc)2022-12-25_06-03-33 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SiMc) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586338363_877bc9f97f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SJjg)2022-12-25_06-03-59 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SJjg) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

And because I'm a sucker for free shipping, I ended up picking this up from summit racing while ordering a bunch of other crap.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586257010_aedd7488f7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Sj8C)2022-12-25_06-04-19 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Sj8C) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Got the crankshaft set into place. Chevy was not screwing around when they designed this engine. Six bolt main caps. Four vertically into the block and one from each side horizontally into the main cap from the outside of the block. The more I worked with this, the more I could see why people are getting four figure horsepower numbers from these engines and they hold together.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586083454_e4cb6918fc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Rqxh)2022-12-25_06-05-02 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Rqxh) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I got all the rings gapped. This is the key to a stock bottom and holding together with a crap load of boost pressure. I opened up the ring gap on these to.030" minimum. I have a couple that are approaching 40 but I don't care. It's not like it won't run.  040 would be right around 1 mm for my metric friends. 030 is about .75mm

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52585823311_8dbaf578a7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q6d4)2022-12-25_06-05-12 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q6d4) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I had to get the Truck Norris cam.  This is not the rowdiest cam on the market for the LS but it has proven to add a significant amount of power and torque to an NA engine. Seems like 400 to 450 horsepower is easily attainable with this cam and this engine. Adding 15 lb of boost pressure will roughly double that power number. And I'm not afraid to go to 25 providing we can keep it fueled.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52585351047_d373cca096_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7MEPz)2022-12-25_06-05-23 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7MEPz) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

New GM oil pump and melling timing chain. Gears are OEM.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586084399_ef0bc23d4f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7RqPz)2022-12-25_06-05-35 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7RqPz) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

More stuff painted with Toyota lunar rock
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586260240_262c4d1ae2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Sk6j)2022-12-25_06-05-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Sk6j) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Big windage tray from the factory. What's not to love?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586342103_a60d8b1fdd_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SKqK)2022-12-25_06-06-10 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SKqK) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

New rear cover and rear main seal
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52585352702_16cbc9f74e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7MFj7)2022-12-25_06-06-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7MFj7) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Oil pan!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586261225_aa502e547f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Skoi)2022-12-25_06-06-33 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Skoi) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

ARP head studs. I have purchased running vehicles for less money than I spent on this box of head studs. However, I recognize that they are also a key and holding an extreme amount of cylinder pressure in place. I like my head gaskets to stay where they're supposed to be.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52585825886_195ea236aa_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q6Ys)2022-12-25_06-06-40 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q6Ys) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Here's a neat little widget I discovered to allow me to feed oil to two turbochargers. Here's a great case of something I could easily make myself but this thing cost like $23 and there's no way I could even draw it up and solid works and think about programming it for that amount of money.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586086469_fe148c64d2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Rrrg)2022-12-25_06-06-49 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Rrrg) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Here are the ARP studs ready to go. A lot of people wonder why these things cost so much, but I can see why. Higher tensile steel, heat treated, threads have been rolled instead of cut and they come with 12 point nuts and special washers. The washers are smooth on one side and waffle cut on the other. The waffle cut grips, the head and the smooth side allows the nut to rotate easier. ARP instructions call for applying ARPs thread lube to the underside of the nut as well as the threads. On that end. The block threads get installed dry. Each stud, conveniently, has a female hex in the end to allow you to drive the stud into place.

That's a huge convenience because that thread lube gets everywhere. I think it's grown in the same factory anti-seize is made in.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52585355042_21949d9bee_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7MG1s)2022-12-25_06-08-05 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7MG1s) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Here's a little poem I wrote on my piston crowns. I don't know if this Flickr video is going to show up or not but I'll give it a try.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/52585354382_f673e30bc9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7MFP5)PXL_20221115_222224176 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7MFP5) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Getting ready to install these heads and decided to take an artsy shot of the valve springs.  I reused all the intake valves. As I lapped them all, I discovered that all the exhaust valves were pitted all over the band that contacted the cylinder head. I'm estimating roughly 50% of the contact was lost. I don't know why they pitted, I haven't seen that before. But, as the only way the exhaust valves can be cooled is by transferring heat to the seat in the head. I want as much contact as I can get. I spent $100 on all new exhaust valves. They all lapped in fine.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586263540_6b63c52510_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Sm5d)2022-12-25_06-08-15 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Sm5d) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I had to pull the oil pan back off since I forgot about drains for the turbos. So I yank the pan and got a really nice carbide tooth hole saw at harbor freight and drilled holes in a perfectly good oil pan.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586346028_e6f3d53878_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SLAq)2022-12-25_06-08-55 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SLAq) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

- 10 AN bulkhead fittings were installed to facilitate oil drainage. A rubber sealed crush washer is on the inside along with some RTV. Threadlocker, on the retaining nut on the inside of the pan. I'm pretty happy with how this came out.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586089924_26b996043d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7RssQ)2022-12-25_06-09-12 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7RssQ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Here's the whole thing put together
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586265350_1449a4f92a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SmBq)2022-12-25_06-09-34 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SmBq) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Sidebar in the next post-

I actually built this engine three times. The first time. Everything was going pretty well and as I was rolling the engine over with a ratchet to allow me to install the rocker arms, I felt a tight spot.

Not just a tight spot, a spot that felt grindy. I didn't know what it was at the time but all my years of machining and building precision things told me do not run the engine the way it is. It will eat itself.

So I started tearing things down and taking parts off one at a time. Waiting for this tight grinding feeling to go away. It never did. I ended up pulling the crank back out and found some scoring on one of the main bearings.

I consulted with a buddy of mine who is built a lot of engines and he felt that some junk got down in there and got ground into the bearing.

So I ran myself an hour one way to another parts store that had the exact bearings I needed and bought another set for $140.

I ordered in a set of engine brushes and got the cleaning. The thing like it was going into an operating room.

Honestly, I did not get very much out of all the oil galleys and all that with the long brushes. My friend mentioned cleaning the bores with brake cleaner which I did not do the first time.  He mentioned that when they honed engines that there was tons of small grit that would get into the crosshatch.

He was correct as lots of scrubbing with shop towels and brake cleaner yielded dirt from the bores.

I set the new bearings in place and got to building. This time I got to experience the tight grinding spot after all the pistons went back in and the cam was in.

I called my buddy and asked him to come down and take a look. I know something wasn't right and I didn't want to go any further or spend any more money or time on it until somebody that knew more than me got to take a look at it.

So he came down on a Sunday and we spent about 5 hours going over everything.

We plastic gauged the crank. Right in the middle of this back. No problems there. And play was about .007, again right in spec.

With no main caps in place, we put indicators on the main journals and spun the crank. Absolutely zero run out. I had to touch the indicator to confirm it was actually contacting the crank journals.

So we greased everything up with assembly lube and installed the crank. Rather than put all the pistons and rods into place, we went right to installing the cam since that's when I had problems last time.

The problem returned again.

Further, diagnosis showed that when you pulled on the crank snout it would grind. If you pushed on it. It would not grind. Remember that end play was only 0.007.

We ended up using a paint marker on the reluctor wheel at the back of the crank and painting that. Spinning the crank around. We're looking for where marks in the paint. We found nothing.

I pulled the can, spray, painted the back of my old cam and put that in place. We could find no rubbing there.

I got to looking a little closer after pulling that cam back out and noticed that the camshaft bores were like a quarter inch, 6 mm, away from the reluctor wheel. There's no way any of that stuff was rubbing.

I installed my new cam again and as I was bolting the retainer plate down my buddy snaps his fingers and goes "I bet that bolt is too long."

Sure enough, one of the bolts that secures the Cam retainer plate was a through hole. The bolt was just long enough to touch the front counterweight on the crank. And as that counterweight was rough machined you could easily feel the grooves as you rolled the crank back and forth over the bolt. There was my grinding feeling.

I spent 30 to 40 hours and $140 on new bearings that I didn't need because of bolt was .010 too long.

I hit all four of those retainer plate bolts on the grinder for about 2 seconds each and the problem is gone forever.

Live and learn I guess.

Anyway, onward and upward. Now that I had a, probably, functioning engine, it's time to add stuff to the back of it.

But before that I needed to torque my harmonic dampener. This is a fun one. It requires an installation tool that I didn't have. However, I did have a really long piece of all thread. That was the correct thread for the crank. I was able to rig up my own install tool with some nuts, washers and along socket to drive it all in place the impact gun. That worked just fine.

Instructions that I'm following say to use the old balancer bolt on the new balancer and torque to 240 ft lb. Then remove that bolt, install your new bolt, torque to something like 30 ft lb and then 140° of rotation past that.

Let me tell you it's interesting trying to torque something to that high of a value by yourself on a motor that's on a stand that's not bolted to the floor.

I ended up making a plate out of some 3/16 by 2 in, 5mm by 50 mm for my overseas friends, and bolting it in place of the flywheel. The mounting bolts of the engine stand contact this plate as I torque the bolt at the front of the engine.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52585830396_d0fabb8bef_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q8jd)2022-12-25_06-09-51 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q8jd) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Back and front side of the flywheel. It is aluminum with a riveted steel insert for the friction discs to contact.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52585830736_420c8ea317_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q8q5)2022-12-25_06-10-07 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q8q5) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52585830921_405f73299c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q8tg)2022-12-25_06-10-15 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q8tg) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Okay now for the pilot bearing. This is an actual bearing. Instead of a bronze bushing. It has needle rollers. It has a o-ring to seal itself against the transmission input shaft and prevent junk from getting down into the bearings rollers. Pretty neat little design. This is actually the bearing from an early 2000s Chevy Corvette ZO6.

The o-ring is supposed to go towards the transmission. I check this like four times and still managed to install it backwards. At least I caught it before the bearing was fully seated and was about 3/4 of the way there.

It took me like an hour and a half to find some place that had another bearing. So I went and got that and I got a pilot bearing puller from the parts store. I didn't really need this but I'm just going to chalk it up to this is the price I pay for screwing up. Plus I get a tool out of the deal.

This particular puller is a two finger style. It's designed to slip through the center of the bearing, u-turn a screw that then spreads these fingers. Imagine the letter l and a second one back to back. The foot of the l expands and hooks against the inside face of the bearing. A steel strap bridges the flywheel flange on the crank and as you turn a nut, it draws the entire bearing out of the crank. Great design.

Except it didn't work for me at all. All it did was rip the cage out of the bearing. I have to say getting pretty irritated.

Did I decide to mig weld the bearing to each side of both of those fingers ?

Yes, I did.

Did it work, yes it did.

Do I regret this ?

I do not.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586091899_22ebdd531f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Rt3T)2022-12-25_06-10-38 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Rt3T) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Here's the engine with the flywheel installed and the pilot bearing installed correctly.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52585358567_777db8037d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7MH4e)2022-12-25_06-10-54 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7MH4e) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

This bellhousing, it took me 8 months to get it. This is a steal SFI explosion proof housing. It's designed to contain what amounts to a bomb if the flywheel or clutch ever fails. As I like my feet it was worth the wait and the almost four figure cost.  In this picture I have an indicator on the flywheel and I'm checking the centerline of the bell housing to the center of the crank. The better in line these two things are the less vibration that transmission will produce and the longer it will live.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586349198_cb0233bf4e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SMx5)2022-12-25_06-11-08 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SMx5) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Here's the whole thing together. There's no clutch in here but I wanted to bolt it all up and see if it fit in the vehicle. I'm actually exchanging my friction discs for pressed metal ones. The fiber discs hold 750 horsepower and the metal ones hold 1,000. Plus. I need metal.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52585359167_fe69cec5fa_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7MHez)2022-12-25_06-11-21 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7MHez) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

First trial fit
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52585832646_0e7b04aac9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q8Z1)2022-12-25_06-11-33 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7Q8Z1) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586349928_e7e3cf79a5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SMKE)2022-12-25_06-11-42 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SMKE) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

It fits! But not really. While it is in there. I need some more room. The front of the oil pan is on the axle which is at ride height. I need to raise the engine about 7 in which means a transmission tunnel is in my future.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52586268865_ec16eebd8e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SnE2)2022-12-25_06-11-58 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7SnE2) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Now you're all caught up!

 [evil]

How many work hours do you think you have in it?

I don't know. I should have kept track when I started. Or maybe it's better I didn't? 

Maybe 500 at this point if I had to guess.

Do not track the hours.

Burn the receipts.  ;)

Got any pics of the steering issues?

Not specifically. I really want to make a rack work so I don't have to shoehorn a steering box in... somewhere.

You know that bolt would have clearanced itself...right? [evil]

I do!  Then I would have shit when I cut the oil filter open and realized I needed to tear the engine down to figure out what was going on [laugh]

There's a steer clear steering doohickey that helps relocate things when stuff gets tight if it's any help.

Not cheap, but I've heard good things about it.

(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/pAkAAOSwcU5joaR1/s-l500.jpg)

I've seen these things and am loosely aware of them. Haven't really got that far yet.

Step one is get the engine/trans in and route steering around that.

This. So much this. Trust me.  ;D

Good move on the bellhousing, a friend of mine still has his feet after a 9,000 RPM flywheel and clutch explosion on a 289 Ford because of one.

 :o
Fuuuuuuuuuuuk can you imagine that happening with a cast alum bell???

It might have been bad. Really bad.

As it was, the steel bell ballooned out badly enough that it broke the lower two ears off the block and cracked a couple of the other bolt bosses. It was literally a bucket of shrapnel when it came off the block. My buddy had just used it a season or so, as I recall it was right after that particular engine combo went together (12:1, single carb tunnel ram, massive mechanical roller cam, etc.) and the 4-speed got an overhaul. We all got wise with that one.

I don't think people realize just how much stored energy is inside that bellhousing area. Sobering.

 [thumbsup] to the progress!

Happy New Year to everyone!

A couple days ago I was able to spend some time stripping the interior of the cab. The headliner was like a cardboard -fiber type cover that was hardened and cracked. Much of it was missing anyway so I pulled all of that out.

When I pulled the seat out, I discovered that this vehicle actually did come with seat belts. Who knew. I vacuumed out a ton of mouse poop from underneath the seat.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52600563883_5862e45d9b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o98D4R)2023-01-01_10-27-34 (https://flic.kr/p/2o98D4R) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I found out these door handles are aftermarket. Aftermarket meaning someone took drawer handles and screwed them to the door. Originally they did not come with these and international intended you to use the latch handle to pull the door closed. Apparently that resulted in those handles wearing out prematurely. Mine are both nice and tight so I'm going to consider myself lucky that someone decided to modify the door.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52600303434_de9690285e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o97iDm)2023-01-01_10-27-45 (https://flic.kr/p/2o97iDm) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I pulled the gauges out just to keep them protected. They're also 6 volts so unusable for my setup which will be 12 obviously. I had thought about a digital gauge cluster. And I'm also considering rehabbing these gauges for use with 12 volt with an updated speedometer etc.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52600303794_a5d92a9836_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o97iKy)2023-01-01_10-27-59 (https://flic.kr/p/2o97iKy) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I put the engine and transmission more or less in place and you can see my sharpie lines where things needed to be cut. I put the engine and transmission up in there as far as I could and then took an angle reading off the transmission. It was about 15° and I needed to move that up about 13 more degrees to result in a roughly 2 degree downslope.

Using a tape measure and some trig I was able to figure out how much I needed to remove to hit my target. The firewall I got on the first crack. The area under the seats needed cut back a little further than I thought, just because the transmission was longer than I could really see my eye standing hunched over inside the cab.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52600304184_0f814e741f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o97iSh)2023-01-01_10-28-09 (https://flic.kr/p/2o97iSh) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52600565008_4ab23ce718_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o98Dpf)2023-01-01_10-28-16 (https://flic.kr/p/2o98Dpf) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52600044931_3ed9e0f879_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o95YNp)2023-01-01_10-28-25 (https://flic.kr/p/2o95YNp) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52600045161_f5396674c8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o95YSn)2023-01-01_10-28-33 (https://flic.kr/p/2o95YSn) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

With the cuts made and the transmission jacked up to the angle I was looking for, which came out to about 2.5 °, things are looking decent. The engine is about as close to the firewall as i would want and the oil pan will clear the front axle at full compression. I'm going to add some hard stops to the frame just to be safe. The last thing I want to do is hit a big pothole and rip open my oil pan.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52600045336_23d6a72a83_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o95YVo)2023-01-01_10-28-40 (https://flic.kr/p/2o95YVo) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52600566118_4398b6db52_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o98DJo)2023-01-01_10-28-56 (https://flic.kr/p/2o98DJo) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I had a local fab shop bend me up a transmission tunnel and you can see that it test fits fairly well.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52599553567_e23948ee9f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o93sJB)2023-01-01_10-29-04 (https://flic.kr/p/2o93sJB) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Whoever invented these cleeco clips, I tip my hat to you.  These things are a godsend for sheet metal work. I haven't really done much extensive sheet metal work before like this project will take. These clips came in a heap of tools and tool chests that I bought from a friend of mine's dad who was going into a home. I got a great deal on everything and they were happy that the tools were going to me. These clips are invaluable.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52600566583_5c72270c1e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o98DSp)2023-01-01_10-29-10 (https://flic.kr/p/2o98DSp) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

If you look back at the second picture I posted here you can see an opening in the floor that's flanged. There is a large panel that is removable from the factory. I can only assume it's to allow work on the transmission. I can't see that it was just for the assembly process at the factory. Anyway, that panel always rots out and the one I got with the truck was homemade by somebody.

Since I'm cutting through that area with a transmission tunnel and I have compromised some of the strength of the floor by cutting out some sheet metal under the seats, I'm going to need to shore that up.

I'm thinking I'm going to make a grid from half inch square tubing to span the entire area between the sides and the transmission tunnel. Basically where your feet go. I'm also going to tie that grid into the slope of the firewall. The plan is then to skin it all with 1/16 sheet metal. Same thickness as the transmission tunnel.

If my math is right that will then match the level of the surrounding floor area. I'm going to do some padding/carpeting anyway so it's really not that big of a deal but I see no reason not to try and do the best job I can here.

I bought some universal motor mounts which should be here Tuesday. So I'm hoping by the weekend I can have permanent mounts for the engine and transmission in place.

Moving right along...

I invented those cleco clips. It was right after I invented coffee, but before I created the zip tie.

Save some women for the rest of us, would you

Back to it this weekend. Last weekend was...

Bad. I got food poisoning and lost 5.5lbs from Friday night to Sunday morning. It took until the following Thursday to feel right again.

So my tool collection had gotten out of hand and many of the drawers in my tool chests were not that organized. I weeded out all the stuff I haven't used in years and consolidated a bunch of things.

I used kaizen foam from Fastcap to organize a few drawers.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629353142_bd6435b086_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2obFc7o)2023-01-15_10-43-39 (https://flic.kr/p/2obFc7o) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629871021_e8f4980320_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2obHR4k)2023-01-15_10-43-48 (https://flic.kr/p/2obHR4k) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629871306_bd09f2a744_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2obHR9f)2023-01-15_10-43-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2obHR9f) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Some socket organizers from home Depot finished things off.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629363092_c2618123ba_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2obFf4W)2023-01-15_10-50-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2obFf4W) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr


This weekend's project was motor and transmission mounts. I only got the motor mounts done but it's still a step in the right direction.

I picked up some universal LS mounts with poly bushings fairly cheap. I was able to modify the ears they included to mount to the frame.

I added a 3/16 x 2" plate on the top and bottom sides to stiffen things up. The mounts aren't fully welded in case they need to move.

I don't know where our how I'd move anything since this is all 10 lbs in a 5lb bag type of deal but the option is there.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52630354128_d4965aeee6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2obLjEL)2023-01-15_10-44-11 (https://flic.kr/p/2obLjEL) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52630354353_78cd89dc4b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2obLjJD)2023-01-15_10-44-21 (https://flic.kr/p/2obLjJD) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629354562_90541218cf_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2obFcwS)2023-01-15_10-44-30 (https://flic.kr/p/2obFcwS) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52630121544_f17f0dacfc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2obK8wG)2023-01-15_10-44-36 (https://flic.kr/p/2obK8wG) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

In addition to all this I ordered a Holley Dominator EFI unit along with a bunch of harnesses and sensors. If you want to see what it can do Google it. The answer is everything. [evil]

Looks good.

I'm considering a Holley EFI for my crossram setup.

I need to double check how it would handle such a mess of intake.

I'm sure you can come up with a way to make it work. Word of warning, if you order now, you'll have it months from now.

Got my friction discs exchanged so that meant pulling the trans off the motor and getting the clutch properly installed. Dual disc!  Hopefully it holds.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52657899709_5ab2f6be9e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oecv1z)2023-01-29_11-19-29 (https://flic.kr/p/2oecv1z) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Turbos showed up
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52658065795_5f351abb35_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oedmo8)2023-01-29_11-19-46 (https://flic.kr/p/2oedmo8) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

A fun graphic a friend made when I commented that this engine is either going to make a lot of power or it's going to be Earth's newest satellite.  I may have this made into an actual poster.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52658110503_7c64c45d09_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oedzEX)2023-01-29_11-20-11 (https://flic.kr/p/2oedzEX) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Hydraulic throw out bearing. Hopefully I have this thing shimmed correctly. Time will tell.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52657129697_ced0308dfa_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oe8y7v)2023-01-29_11-20-20 (https://flic.kr/p/2oe8y7v) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Ended up having to narrow my transmission cross member. Pretty much took it apart, section 1.5" (37mm) out of the middle and weld back together
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52657130112_8e07545c70_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oe8yeE)2023-01-29_11-20-40 (https://flic.kr/p/2oe8yeE) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52657901324_460f14b5bc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oecvuq)2023-01-29_11-20-47 (https://flic.kr/p/2oecvuq) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52658067220_3377cf75af_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oedmNG)2023-01-29_11-20-53 (https://flic.kr/p/2oedmNG) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Seats are ordered and due in this week. In the meantime I have to build some support structure for the floor skin and also to strengthen the cab since I cut out some of the middle to make room for a transmission tunnel.

I built this I beam thing to span the front of the original seat box. All the square tube in the next few pics is 1/2 sq x 1/16 wall (12mmx1.5mm)

On it's own it's pretty flexible. Sandwich some 3/16 (4.5mm) plate between two of them and it's a different story.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52657901914_280626149a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oecvEA)2023-01-29_11-21-13 (https://flic.kr/p/2oecvEA) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

There's a recessed area in the floor to accommodate a removable panel. My plan was to lay sq tube in the recess and build something that could support sheet metal floor and feet.  The two rear corners are curved and I don't have a tubing bender.

So I notched the tube to allow me to curve it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52658067910_ec62d7381f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oedn1A)2023-01-29_11-21-21 (https://flic.kr/p/2oedn1A) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52658068050_3dfbf1dda0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oedn41)2023-01-29_11-21-27 (https://flic.kr/p/2oedn41) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52658068180_22e9dd1af7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oedn6f)2023-01-29_11-21-33 (https://flic.kr/p/2oedn6f) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52657902599_e8f08d5cc2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oecvSp)2023-01-29_11-21-40 (https://flic.kr/p/2oecvSp) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

The mostly finished product
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52657616011_7dfc693250_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oeb3Fe)2023-01-29_11-21-46 (https://flic.kr/p/2oeb3Fe) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52658112838_a94d4086f2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oedAnd)2023-01-29_11-21-55 (https://flic.kr/p/2oedAnd) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Looking good!

Time to figure out some seats. Mrs ML found these side by side seats that we decided to try out. I was originally looking at some Mercedes or Lincoln seats but they didn't really fit the overall theme of the truck. They were too new looking. I really like the diamond stitching on the ones we bought.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52709895477_f0f2bfd2ac_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oiMZxk)2023-02-25_12-30-56 (https://flic.kr/p/2oiMZxk) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

One final shot of the floor. You can kind of see the section I had to cut away to make room for the transmission. Removing that piece in the middle really weakened the floor and allowed it to flex like crazy.  Part of the mission with designing seat brackets was to reintroduce some structural integrity back into the floor.

I ended up building that i-beam deal across the front edge. At the rear of where the seats are going to mount I did some diagonals and some stringers to try and shore things up there.  It made a huge difference and I can put my full weight basically anywhere inside the cab and the floor doesn't flex.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52710897278_6a542c815e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oiT8kL)2023-02-25_12-31-15 (https://flic.kr/p/2oiT8kL) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52710834175_e5bb4a8f47_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oiSNzM)2023-02-25_12-31-31 (https://flic.kr/p/2oiSNzM) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52710897913_26dab1ba87_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oiT8wH)2023-02-25_12-31-39 (https://flic.kr/p/2oiT8wH) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Here's the pair of them loosely mounted. I have the front's bolted but, despite my best efforts, the mounting holes at the rear did not line up with the brackets.

As it turns out, both seats are not the same. Since I built the pattern off of the one, it didn't entirely match the other. Close but not close enough. Nothing a little grinding won't take care of.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52710834540_43d3fa1bf1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oiSNG5)2023-02-25_12-31-48 (https://flic.kr/p/2oiSNG5) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

And finally a shot of the way it sits. Currently. Engine and transmission are permanently in place, or can be lol. They're going to have to come out at least one more time to facilitate frame boxing and this and that.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52710677719_679e476b73_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oiS15g)2023-02-25_12-31-56 (https://flic.kr/p/2oiS15g) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

 [thumbsup]

Nice work, ML!

Thank you!  I'm mostly just making it up as I go. It's working so far!

 [evil] [evil]

Great work!

Not a ton of work got done this weekend but it all adds up.

I fit the original steering column to get some measurements and order an aftermarket one but as it turns out this one fits pretty well. I'm going to try and reuse it.

I'll have to do some machining on the end so it can couple with the steering joints I bought but I know a guy that can do that.

I also ordered all those steering bits today along with a power rack from a 99-06 2wd Silverado.  It's the right width and I'm going to see if I can fit it in and make it functional.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52712934587_3c51592c5a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oj4yXM)2023-02-26_05-57-45 (https://flic.kr/p/2oj4yXM) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I also started mocking up the sheet metal pattern for the passenger side. That firewall has some compound curves that don't look fun to overlay but I'll make it work. It's what hammers are for after all.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52713933918_e50ab518f7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oj9G2C)2023-02-26_05-57-54 (https://flic.kr/p/2oj9G2C) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I really like what you did  with the floor.

Thanks!  Like I said. Making it up as I go and doing what makes sense to me.

Awesome.  8)

Is the 'doghouse' going to be removable?

No it's already stitched in.

Actually, the floor pans that I am in the process of constructing. I think I'm going to mount with rivets. I was originally going to weld them in and the more I got into it the more I think a bunch of rivets would look pretty cool.

Those floor pans are going to be flanged on the inside to allow me to rivet to the transmission tunnel.

I think I'm just going to run a bead of steam sealer everywhere things touch and go to town with the rivet gun

And speaking of rivet guns... I have a ton of DeWalt cordless tools but they do not make a riveter.

I have a handheld one, but there's going to be enough rivets in this project that I don't want to be squeezing them one by one. Has anybody ever used a pneumatic one? I have not ever used one or seen one in action. I think they use them for production riveting so they must work. I'm just wondering how user friendly are they? Price is certainly right.

I haven't, but another option is stitch welding the panels and then sealing. If you use a weldable zinc primer it should help with the corrosion issue, and eliminate the purchase of another tool, and the pain of all the hand riveting.

Just a thought.

But rivets look awesome.

This is the gun I'm looking at
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-PR14-Riveter/dp/B000MQ9H4W/ref=sxin_21_pa_sp_phone_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.cf610209-8684-4ca3-bdd7-27cd805c222b%3Aamzn1.sym.cf610209-8684-4ca3-bdd7-27cd805c222b&crid=TUNSXJHE7UQC&cv_ct_cx=rivet+gun&keywords=rivet+gun&pd_rd_i=B000MQ9H4W&pd_rd_r=e43b4681-29c4-4a95-bdfc-ce5513e15b0e&pd_rd_w=LgmqY&pd_rd_wg=B2nL9&pf_rd_p=cf610209-8684-4ca3-bdd7-27cd805c222b&pf_rd_r=G12PM3AH716RP76G3F3H&qid=1677534236&sprefix=rivet%2Caps%2C137&sr=1-2-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFLOVZJUExNQTI1WjkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzMTc2NTJLQUszVUgyOUxBTzUmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDQwMDU4MzFXUEJKQVFaS1BUN0cmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWMmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

No way I'd do it all by hand.

When you're done with that truck (or just want some variety) my FJ40 needs your kind of lovin...

That brushable seam sealer works great.

Also possibly the most toxic nasty shit I've ever dealt with.  :P


Looking good, man.

I have used a hand rivet gun and a pneumatic one.  Pneumatic FTW!  It was quick, easy, and most importantly, easy on the hands.

Send it on down. I'll need something to keep these hands from being idle.


Thanks!  I haven't researched any of it yet but I was hoping for something that a caulking gun would run.


That's what I was hoping. I imagine you have to load each rivet by hand and then install it?

Yes, you have to load it one rivet at a time.

If you want a sealer that lays flat, and can run out of a caulking gun... https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-Self-Leveling-Lap-Sealant-2/dp/B00H554R98/ref=asc_df_B00H554R98/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=533465893083&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14781274898534986200&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1021920&hvtargid=pla-1388758333851&psc=1

No tooling necessary. I used it on the roof of our camper, and it worked good.

Is it sort of medium viscosity like a caulk would be? Or is it runnier than that? I see it's stating only for horizontal surfaces. I have some slightly non-horizontal surfaces that are going to need sealed.

Pretty runny.

Time to make functioning steering. I started with a full-size truck rack with the intention of mounting it to the front of the axle. That ended up not working out because of packaging issues.

I'm intending to run a telescoping steering joint to accommodate suspension, compression and extension. Another friend of mine suggested flipping the axle around and using the rear of the tube as the mount. Which also means a different steering rack that's a rear steer version. And that's what I did.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52772803256_cde5cb607b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opmpQd)2023-03-26_02-53-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2opmpQd) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Since the axles weigh a lot, I built this caddy that fits on my floor jack. There's a center pin that fits into a hole in the jackpad.  What a huge difference this makes in trying to wrangle heavy unruly axle tubes.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52773060804_6c9934350a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opnJoG)2023-03-26_02-54-12 (https://flic.kr/p/2opnJoG) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52773287353_7d754ae0a4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opoTJH)2023-03-26_02-54-05 (https://flic.kr/p/2opoTJH) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Yep, plenty of room.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52773061164_53edf6b9f5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opnJuU)2023-03-26_02-54-23 (https://flic.kr/p/2opnJuU) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52773220225_63e5e28981_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opoxMk)2023-03-26_02-54-30 (https://flic.kr/p/2opoxMk) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52773061864_05159ec1ec_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opnJGY)2023-03-26_02-54-39 (https://flic.kr/p/2opnJGY) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I ended up using a rear steering rack for an early 2000s Chevy cavalier. These are the mounts for that rack.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52772273832_8a65deb784_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opiGsd)2023-03-26_02-54-48 (https://flic.kr/p/2opiGsd) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52772804906_ec983ec758_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opmqjE)2023-03-26_02-54-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2opmqjE) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52772274417_abde276f51_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opiGCi)2023-03-26_02-55-09 (https://flic.kr/p/2opiGCi) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52773289318_f22c465d16_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opoUjA)2023-03-26_02-55-19 (https://flic.kr/p/2opoUjA) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I ended up using the steering shaft for the same car as the rack. I got lucky in that it was already telescoping. However, I needed an extension to go from that joint to my existing steering column. I machineed that at the shop and then welded it to the stock steering shaft. It worked perfectly.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52773221880_41047a2a4b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opoygS)2023-03-26_02-55-27 (https://flic.kr/p/2opoygS) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52772275282_a71cf21353_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opiGTd)2023-03-26_02-55-32 (https://flic.kr/p/2opiGTd) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Video. Click it ⬇️
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/52773326413_d5e20e3aa7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opp6ma)PXL_20230319_220930280.TS (https://flic.kr/p/2opp6ma) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Now that I have steering that will work. It's time to pull the cab and box the frame to stiffen it up. I wasn't too sure about getting a few friends together to just lift it. I could only see something going wrong with that process. So I engineered a way for me to do it by myself using my engine hoist and some rigging. I did have my dad and a friend on hand to study the cab. In the end it executed exactly as it did in my mind with no hangups. And nobody got hurt!

I pulled all the cab mount bolts out and replaced them with long eye bolts. From there. I just used some marine rope with a high rating to create a front and rear connection and then just adjusted them until the center gravity was correct. 10/10 would do again.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52772806826_9469d14353_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opmqTL)2023-03-26_02-56-03 (https://flic.kr/p/2opmqTL) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52773222880_2fe666b2e5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opoyz7)2023-03-26_02-55-54 (https://flic.kr/p/2opoyz7) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52773223375_4eefd0a9e7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opoyHD)2023-03-26_02-56-18 (https://flic.kr/p/2opoyHD) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52773291148_5459cdedd2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opoUS9)2023-03-26_02-56-09 (https://flic.kr/p/2opoUS9) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52772807591_8baa386e8c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opmr7X)2023-03-26_02-56-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2opmr7X) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

To create the pattern for the box plates, I ended up having a friend of mine come over with his 3D scanner. We placed target dots all over the frame and he did his magic to create an STL file of the entire frame. He's able to section all that out and overlay my boxing plates to get their geometry.

After that he's going to send it to one of his guys at his shop and they're going to water jet these plates from 3/16 material. All I have to do is pick them up, write him a check and weld away. Theoretically everything should fit perfectly.

This is the first time I had any exposure to the 3D scanning process and it totally blew my mind. On the other side of that, this is like a $40,000 set up. It will save me hours.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52772807626_e0fea2fbab_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opmr8y)2023-03-26_02-56-32 (https://flic.kr/p/2opmr8y) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52772276942_b328d7e59f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opiHnQ)2023-03-26_02-56-37 (https://flic.kr/p/2opiHnQ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I was actually so blown away by how cool this process was that I forgot to take more pictures or video.

If everything goes well the cab will be ready to go back on next weekend.

And then I start building suspension.

Noice!

 [clap]

Looking good fantastic [beer]

I have a question re: the plates. Are you going to do filet welds or just butt joints?

(https://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/images/FILLET-cjp.jpg)

Filets. [thumbsup]

Mig?

Good God yes. I'd be collecting social security by the time I finish this with a TIG welder.

Absolutely.

[laugh] [laugh] [laugh] [laugh]

Just realized I misspelled fillet. [bang]

I didn't even notice [laugh]

My scanner guy came through and cut out 8 plates on his water jet that more or less fit the frame perfectly. It saved me hours of fit up.

Rear sections tacked into place
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52803151250_ef371b698e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2os2Xeu)2023-04-08_05-54-44 (https://flic.kr/p/2os2Xeu) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52803198773_a5beebe1d1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2os3cmR)2023-04-08_05-54-59 (https://flic.kr/p/2os3cmR) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

And fully welded. Let me tell you again, I hate overhead mig. It runs great until it doesn't [laugh] My saving grace is that I don't weld for a living. I can take it apart like nobody's business but putting it back together is a different ball game entirely. Weld quality is my only complaint in this build.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52803198943_80256047fc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2os3cpM)2023-04-08_05-55-07 (https://flic.kr/p/2os3cpM) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

It's nice when you run out of gas after you finish your last plate vs in the middle of it
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52803199263_74f909ecdb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2os3cvi)2023-04-08_05-55-17 (https://flic.kr/p/2os3cvi) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Overhead view
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52803002359_90624d14fc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2os2bYp)2023-04-08_05-55-28 (https://flic.kr/p/2os2bYp) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Transmission mounts were partially welded under the cab. I knew I could finish them up with the cab removed. I also tied in the box plates to the trans mounts.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52803199848_62188bc01c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2os3cFo)2023-04-08_05-55-36 (https://flic.kr/p/2os3cFo) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52802189647_cde5164ea8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2orX2o8)2023-04-08_05-55-44 (https://flic.kr/p/2orX2o8) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I'm currently working on patch triangles to tie the cross members into the box plates. Currently that's half done. I'll finish the last four pieces tomorrow.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52803153230_6eb76dfbdb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2os2XPC)2023-04-08_05-55-55 (https://flic.kr/p/2os2XPC) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52802753321_dab250ef69_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2orZUWD)2023-04-08_05-56-05 (https://flic.kr/p/2orZUWD) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

And in case you've never seen someone mig weld before here's a video of that process.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/52803156295_1f87d71a0a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2os2YJt)PXL_20230401_195423390.TS~2 (https://flic.kr/p/2os2YJt) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

 [thumbsup]

How many inches of weld in the vid?

I want to see the bottom view. [evil] ;D

Maybe 8" or so if I had to guess.

If you ever see it in person feel free to crawl under it
 :-*

I have a ton of pics to post. Been slacking on that but got a bunch of work done on the truck. I'm happy to report the rear suspension is DONE.  Lots of hrs into that.

Starting the front probably Wednesday.

In the meantime, I need you all to cross your fingers and say a prayer to the speed gods for me. I'm sending off the paperwork tomorrow to, hopefully, get this truck a title since it didn't come with one.

If it works I'll post details how I did it.

*Ahem*

Rear suspension time. Going with a triangulated four link.

The brackets that I welded to the frame and axle came from a friend's fancy plasma table. I designed them on cardboard and he turned them into metal. Saved me a ton of time.

The tubing is 2-in OD by 1.5 ID and the rod ends are inch and a quarter.

Complete overkill for what I'm doing. It just adds cost and weight. But it looks awesome.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883824398_57a1a7fb27_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ozaqxQ)2023-05-09_07-49-50 (https://flic.kr/p/2ozaqxQ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

This is an existing cross member that I modified into a suspension arm mount. This piece is stamped from the factory with two end pieces riveted into place. The whole assembly is then riveted to the frame.

It's flanged on the front and rear side to add strength. I trimmed off the rear flange and added 2 in square tubing in its place. That got welded to my frame plates as well as to this cross member.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883379106_f8c46d7231_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz89bo)2023-05-09_07-50-01 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz89bo) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883379396_b424f22f2c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz89go)2023-05-09_07-50-10 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz89go) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883825278_f07c829a36_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ozaqP1)2023-05-09_07-50-21 (https://flic.kr/p/2ozaqP1) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883753805_537cea77c1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oza4yH)2023-05-09_07-50-30 (https://flic.kr/p/2oza4yH) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883380271_9df7b9c9ec_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz89wt)2023-05-09_07-50-40 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz89wt) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882801557_ddeae89c7b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz5buD)2023-05-09_07-50-49 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz5buD) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883826403_9b50f8e230_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ozar9p)2023-05-09_07-50-58 (https://flic.kr/p/2ozar9p) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883754890_ff24e7dbcd_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oza4Tq)2023-05-09_07-51-06 (https://flic.kr/p/2oza4Tq) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

If it's not aparent, I built the entire rear suspension just tack welded together in case I had to move something. After I confirmed that it functioned I finish welded the whole thing.

These are factory leaf spring hangers and I thought they were really cool so I left them in place. They have a front and rear plate that sandwiches the leaf spring.

The goal was for the lower arm to be able to move up and down between those plates. That ended up working on one side but not the other. I don't know why. I didn't spend too much time investigating it and instead got out the cutoff wheel and deleted the inner plate.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883755260_bf4f6844d8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oza4ZN)2023-05-09_07-51-17 (https://flic.kr/p/2oza4ZN) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883755510_e53c52ebd4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oza557)2023-05-09_07-51-26 (https://flic.kr/p/2oza557) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

One of these lower arm frame mount plates needed a zigzag put into it to accommodate the width of the rod end and misalignment spacers. Don't have a break press so I substituted the C clamp and a workbench. And lots of hammering.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883755745_3a0e739746_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oza59a)2023-05-09_07-51-33 (https://flic.kr/p/2oza59a) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Big.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883828003_a401c35f73_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ozarBZ)2023-05-09_07-51-51 (https://flic.kr/p/2ozarBZ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883382821_2c5bb9ea57_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8ahr)2023-05-09_07-52-00 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8ahr) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883756895_b9705c8a87_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oza5tZ)2023-05-09_07-52-09 (https://flic.kr/p/2oza5tZ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883383331_00351c46c3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8are)2023-05-09_07-52-17 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8are) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883829053_197654a4c7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ozarW6)2023-05-09_07-52-26 (https://flic.kr/p/2ozarW6) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

In the middle of all this rear suspension work, I had the opportunity to do a little work on what will become a front suspension radius rod. I needed to notch the end so that I could weld 2-in tube to it to create a bushing.

Don't have a tube notcher but I do have a $130,000 CNC mill that's just as good.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882804887_40dd4abfed_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz5cu4)2023-05-09_07-52-43 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz5cu4) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

60 seconds later we have this
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883384526_8fdac103c9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8aMQ)2023-05-09_07-52-51 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8aMQ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

There will be more on this later, but this is ultimately what the front radius rods are going to look like
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883830168_c5b5a571d2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ozasgj)2023-05-09_07-52-58 (https://flic.kr/p/2ozasgj) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

After all the suspension arm amounts were tacked into place and I confirmed everything worked I did all the finish welding.  Along with that meant creating strength plates to tie each of the arm mount plates together as well as tie them to the frame or axle.

One of the challenges on the rear end was the upper arm tabs were in multiple different planes and a flat piece of metal would not connect them. I made a template out of card stock and cut out my piece of steel. Then took it over to my fabrication log and hammered on it until it was a shape that fit well enough to weld.

And if you're wondering, a fabrication log is simply a log that you have in your garage that gets used for multiple things. It can be used to hold things up. You can use it as a pillow for your head while you're laying on the floor welding. You can also use it to shape metal since it's curved. Sort of.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883758590_8768cf4da8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oza5Zd)2023-05-09_07-53-07 (https://flic.kr/p/2oza5Zd) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882805577_61f2f78671_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz5cFX)2023-05-09_07-53-13 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz5cFX) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882805707_e4f9397f6e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz5cJc)2023-05-09_07-53-19 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz5cJc) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883385561_4c0136437b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8b6F)2023-05-09_07-53-29 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8b6F) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883546179_2e6b46a3e7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8ZQX)2023-05-09_07-53-35 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8ZQX) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883546334_95c4ea21ad_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8ZTC)2023-05-09_07-53-41 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8ZTC) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883386381_473dc69477_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8bkP)2023-05-09_07-53-51 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8bkP) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883831813_bf2fcc6012_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ozasKF)2023-05-09_07-53-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2ozasKF) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Another use of cardstock. After these tabs were fully welded in the crossmember, I needed to tie it all together with a strengthening plate. I made a card stock template and then transferred it to steel. After some minor fitment I welded that all in.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883547039_563c038a29_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz916M)2023-05-09_07-54-03 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz916M) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883832328_d5bdb023fb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ozasUy)2023-05-09_07-54-12 (https://flic.kr/p/2ozasUy) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Excluding spring mounts, the rear is taken care of. Now on to the front. This is just things mocked up and clamped into place just to get a visual. The lowers should work fine. The upper arms definitely need to be shorter.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883387356_4f9a247448_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8bCC)2023-05-09_07-54-21 (https://flic.kr/p/2oz8bCC) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

A little background on what I'm doing with these front radius rods. I've always been aware of drilling holes in frames or tubing or whatever and slipping tube into the hole and welding it to retain strength. Well apparently as I've recently learned these are called speed holes.

I thought I could do better. Why not slots? 

I machined inserts with a 0.060 wall that are designed to slip into slots machined into the radius rods. My mill guy was off on Friday so I spent 10 hours doing that.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52896950772_3a0aca6406_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oAjGyC)2023-05-14_01-21-09 (https://flic.kr/p/2oAjGyC) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52897524036_88ae658799_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oAnCYu)2023-05-14_01-21-15 (https://flic.kr/p/2oAnCYu) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52896951347_309a03559b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oAjGJx)2023-05-14_01-21-21 (https://flic.kr/p/2oAjGJx) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52897690239_9789db6e19_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oAouo4)2023-05-14_01-21-28 (https://flic.kr/p/2oAouo4) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Here you can see one of the inserts that I have just started into the tubing and then after it's pressed into place. I was happy that they went together the first try and the arms didn't require any additional machining to clearance. Honestly I just got lucky there I think. They slid right into place with a rubber mallet.

I welded all around the perimeter of both sides and I'm still needing to grind that down to blend it all so it looks somewhat professional. I may get to that today.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52897925835_c4f2417e8c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oApGq4)2023-05-14_01-26-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2oApGq4) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52897984743_4e77cd656b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oApZVH)2023-05-14_01-26-34 (https://flic.kr/p/2oApZVH) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

For now, that's all she wrote [Dolph]

Love it, man.

Sick!

WOW!

 [thumbsup]

So where did I leave off? Looks like front radius rods...

The first rod I did I used filler when I welded the slots in place.  It took quite a while to dress after welding so the second rod I tried just pulsing the pedal and not using any filler at all. Worked very well.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964101031_75166e38a5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGfRZH)2023-06-10_10-47-41 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGfRZH) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964481425_fb984a5ba8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGhP5e)2023-06-10_10-47-51 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGhP5e) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52963504707_e5512bce49_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGcNJg)2023-06-10_10-48-07 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGcNJg) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Here it is dressed. It's not perfect looking but that's the look I was going for.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964482305_32a53aaee8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGhPkp)2023-06-10_10-48-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGhPkp) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964247104_766112171b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgBqd)2023-06-10_10-48-37 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgBqd) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964557318_f29c30b2fd_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGicCJ)2023-06-10_10-48-47 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGicCJ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Time to set the front axle in place and get more suspension points welded on. This is an area where I should have done things a little differently. In the beginning. I should have established frame center line and then anchored it to the floor at ride height before I did anything to it like cut it in half to shorten it.

I thought I had everything lined up well when I welded the two halves back together but they are off just a little bit.

I ended up establishing frame center line on the floor with some plumb bobs and a chalk line. That let me get everything squared up. And part of that process was a slight adjustment to the rear end. Ye old dial indicator to the rescue.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964248169_a5dccb25e8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgBJz)2023-06-10_10-49-16 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgBJz) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Everything's tacked into place. Note to hold the front axle in place, in space, and at the correct caster angle I welded half inch square tubing to the frame and to the axle. That worked really well.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964249009_72d788b8a5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgBZ4)2023-06-10_10-49-43 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgBZ4) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I got the front upper arms welded together. They're getting speed slots as well but I'm waiting to do that until I have their orientation permanent. Last thing I want to do is slot them and then find out the slots sit at a strange angle compared to the radius rod under them. Got to have everything parallel.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964249279_cd70f31153_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgC4H)2023-06-10_10-49-56 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgC4H) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964559473_ccf041f465_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGidgT)2023-06-10_10-50-03 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGidgT) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

This is the basic idea.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964105056_f20446ee85_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGfTc7)2023-06-10_10-50-12 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGfTc7) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Mounting tabs are tacked into place and I was able to get the arms slotted last weekend.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964250389_3dffac0ff8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgCoR)2023-06-10_10-50-35 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgCoR) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964250659_06c233a5fe_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgCtv)2023-06-10_10-50-44 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgCtv) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Last Saturday I had unlimited access to my friends CNC plasma table. So Friday and Saturday afternoon I designed brackets from cardstock and we got them turned into steel that night.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964561398_169657eff4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGidR5)2023-06-10_10-51-10 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGidR5) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

The basic design of the front shock towers
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964487240_2b0f11a48f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGhQNu)2023-06-10_10-51-18 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGhQNu) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Axle side bracket for the track bar in the front. Two piece design.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964251929_628a1908fa_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgCRp)2023-06-10_10-51-26 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGgCRp) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52963510632_4abbc2c0fb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGcQuq)2023-06-10_10-51-37 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGcQuq) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Frame side track bar mount.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52963510832_c2bd71086f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGcQxS)2023-06-10_10-51-45 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGcQxS) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Driver side shock tower welded into place but not plated yet.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964108726_d11e15b6a7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGfUho)2023-06-10_10-52-07 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGfUho) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964563458_abac4f46e0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGiesA)2023-06-10_10-52-15 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGiesA) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Both shock towers are fully welded and plated at this point. I borrowed a pair of shocks from my plasma table buddy for mock-up. Obviously these are way too long for what I'm going to run but it lets me design lower shock mounts that will get welded directly to the knuckle.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52963512092_80dca1cb09_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGcQVA)2023-06-10_10-52-23 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGcQVA) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

That's where things sit currently. Probably I'll have the rear shock mounts done and welded in tomorrow. After that I'm going to rough up and clean the entire frame and prime it and paint. Then the cab goes back on.

 [thumbsup]

Lot's of odd surfaces on that paint job. I recommend you use something that isn't likely to lift when you're faced with the inevitable touch ups. ;D

Honestly, primer and satin finish rustoleum with some hardener.

Impressive!

 [evil] [evil]

Rustoleum is straight enamel you might have to wait a week before you attempt any touch ups.. Just read the can for re-coat times. Nothing more frustrating than touching something up and having it wrinkle.

I can live with a week. I really only get Friday Saturday Sunday to work on it.

I'll try not to miss a spot though ;D

If you get everything on the first try, you're in the wrong line of work. ;D

[laugh]

Don't i know it

Great to see the progress!

 8) 8) 8)

I finished the last bead of weld on the frame tonight.

:D

 [thumbsup]

Short update today.

I got the frame all finished up, prepped and painted. Unfortunately, due to a variety of errors, I had adhesion problems.

After graduating from ducpainter university I was able to strip all that off and start over. Went after it with a two-part epoxy primer and a nice kit from SEM called hot rod black. This time it was a success.

I modified all the suspension mounting bolts to be more dangerous. Because pointy things are cool.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53022562950_bd84ff283a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oMquFQ)2023-07-04_10-23-42 (https://flic.kr/p/2oMquFQ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Primer
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53022175216_40f3a7d410_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oMovqL)2023-07-04_10-23-58 (https://flic.kr/p/2oMovqL) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Reassembly after paint
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53022344479_afdf879e42_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oMpnK6)2023-07-04_10-24-13 (https://flic.kr/p/2oMpnK6) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53022564325_e292fdd461_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oMqv6x)2023-07-04_10-24-21 (https://flic.kr/p/2oMqv6x) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I had a crew of people over this past weekend to help put the bed in the cab on. This is how it currently looks.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53022345139_b6875b1870_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oMpnWt)2023-07-04_10-24-33 (https://flic.kr/p/2oMpnWt) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Lots more to come...

Also, it's been 2 years since I brought this thing home. And maybe a year and a half since I started really working on it hard.

And before anybody asks, I cold blued the bolts so they wouldn't rust.

I had to throw the front on. I couldn't help it.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53023270118_0b5ef69df4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oMu7Uo)2023-07-04_03-14-45 (https://flic.kr/p/2oMu7Uo) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53022782996_e74e9a14f5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oMrC6J)2023-07-04_03-14-53 (https://flic.kr/p/2oMrC6J) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53022783176_5e86f3722f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oMrC9Q)2023-07-04_03-15-00 (https://flic.kr/p/2oMrC9Q) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

du... [laugh] [laugh] [laugh] [laugh] [laugh]

du?

https://youtu.be/C35VpHXfSzI

[laugh]

Light dawns on Marblehead... ;D

The only marbles here are the ones I've lost

Look at that. Saving the old pushrods *was* a good idea :D

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53022422007_282825dbf5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oMpLMM)2023-07-04_04-49-29 (https://flic.kr/p/2oMpLMM) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53023169814_df465e5f47_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oMtB61)2023-07-04_04-49-36 (https://flic.kr/p/2oMtB61) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Lookin good great!

Fenders in the plan?

No

...is there a plan?  [laugh]

For sure. Fenders aren't part of it though [laugh]

I'm debating hard about what to do for a fuel tank.

From the beginning I wanted to do a spun aluminum tank in the bed because I like the look. Then I got the idea to build my own but make it look like a bomb, like this-->
(https://www.nebraskaaircrash.com/images/nacbomb1.gif)

Instead of a fuel gauge, I would run a tubular sight  glass on the side of the tank for visual check of fuel level.

Aluminum pipe or tubing is prohibitively expensive so I would have to take some 1/8 sheet and roll it into a 12-in diameter, which I have the ability to do.

To do the nose and tail cones I would have to buy some 12-in diameter aluminum and machine them, which I also have the ability to do.  My issue with that is that the material costs $850.

But it would be awesome.

Alternatively, I can get a black powder coated RCI fuel cell, that can also be mounted in the bed, for about $250. It comes with a screw on cap and a fuel level sending unit already installed.

There are a lot of drop in fuel pump options for the fuel cell but if I make the bomb tank I'll have to use an external pump.

All said and done it's about $400 more to build the bomb and it would be a ton of time investment (20hrs maybe)

But again, it would look pretty awesome. The fuel cell would look cool too and would kind of go with the modern tech nature of the build, fuel injection, turbos, etc. If I go with the fuel cell I can probably have everything installed in an afternoon.

What would you do?

Fuel cell.

Agreed.

Because?

I don't think the bomb idea is cool, and I like spending other people's money. :-*

Here's what I'm looking at
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rci-2161ad

Bed mounted, obviously

Obviously aluminum would look cooler, but that's better than the bomb.

They have an uncoated version of that tank as well. The black one is just what I found first

If you give me carte blanche...I'll find something really cool. [evil]

Do it!  Worst I can say is no

Unless you commit, what's my incentive?

Relinquish control of the purse strings, and I'll put in the effort.

It will be epic. ;D

I can look up a kiddie pool on my own ;D

I'm not seeing any potential downside here, ML.



Well, at least not for me.

Fuel cell & cover it with an old steamer trunk.

I'd have to leave it exposed!

IMO, the bomb thing is way overdone these days.

Just a simple fuel cell. It'll be safer.

I thought of it on my own...I've never seen that done in the wild :(

This guy makes 'em  :P

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sheet-metal-replica-1952-100-lb-practice-bomb-m38a2-for-gas-air-tank.1183038/

This cat has four of them on his truck.  But steel, I believe. 

(https://www.motortrend.com/uploads/2021/09/02-monstermax-2-whistlindiesel-truck-hornblasters-duramax-2021.jpg?fit=around%7C875:492)

Well those are hideous aren't they.

Mine would have looked a lot better. Those proportions are horrible imo.

In other news I have ordered:

Fuel cell
Fuel cell mounting kit
Wiring harness for the whole truck
Fuel filter and mounting brackets
Fuel rails
Dual 255lph fuel pump
1000cc fuel injectors

All the fuel stuff is -8 in/out

Still need to get a fpr ordered but this should keep me busy for a little while.

I might need that horn. Or something similar

  [thumbsup]

I think you're close with the heim joints, though.

(https://www.motortrend.com/uploads/2021/09/13-monstermax-2-whistlindiesel-truck-heim-joint-duramax-2021.jpg?fit=around%7C1000:625)

Thank God I am. Those things are e x p e n s I v e

What's an fpr?

Your International > that Chevrolet.

Fuel pressure regulator. In my case one that's boost referenced.

Thank you. That Chevy is pretty fugly

It's ridiculous.

Famous YouTuber.  Money to waste.

I know who he is and I do watch him a little bit. Lots of strange ways to make a living these days

I made a big mistake this weekend.

I hung fenders on the truck just to see what it would look like. And I loved it.

But I can't bear the thought of covering up all the cool suspension stuff in the front. I'm probably going to continue on with the open wheel build but damn she looked good.

Are they hard to put on / off?  Can you sometimes put them on kinda like if you're going out of the house and think, I'm gonna wear a hat today?

It's not quite that simple. I'm going to be running the turbos outboard of the engine covers. That would mean exhaust would have to come up through the fender to the turbo.

Theoretically it could be done but it wouldn't be as simple as just a few quarter turn fasteners to remove them.

I never managed to get out to the garage today to work on the truck. I just felt off and laid around most of the day.

A friend of mine suggested trimming the factory fenders so that only the inner portion plus the headlight mounting area bolted to the truck with the rest removed which exposes everything.

Probably going to build that out of cardboard tomorrow just to see what it looks like.

That would at least solve my issue of how to mount the headlight pods.

Seat belts from airplanes was a common mod since these trucks didn't come with them
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53113926852_0af7de03bb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVuKZw)2023-08-13_08-33-23 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVuKZw) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

How RCI likes to ship fuel cells
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53114513531_89fe7c9288_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVxLoF)2023-08-13_08-33-36 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVxLoF) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

3d cardstock floor pan translated to 2d
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53115012788_e4d68a08d3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVAjNy)2023-08-13_08-33-47 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVAjNy) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53114933025_529580bbc5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVzV6k)2023-08-13_08-33-56 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVzV6k) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Fuel injector goodness. 1200cc/min. Stock is like 240cc
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53114933260_745b4fcd74_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVzVao)2023-08-13_08-34-03 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVzVao) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Working on the driver's side floor. Improvised brake for some bends.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53115013433_0a94b9aff0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVAjZF)2023-08-13_08-34-14 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVAjZF) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53114514701_502ee9e369_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVxLJR)2023-08-13_08-34-22 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVxLJR) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

How does one wear out the back of a pair of gloves??
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53114721299_5ca50b0c8c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVyQ9T)2023-08-13_08-34-28 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVyQ9T) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Fenders. I love the look but I really don't want to cover everything. They would also be a ton of fab time to make them work well.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53113928847_630f10a164_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVuLzV)2023-08-13_08-34-36 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVuLzV) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53114721779_3d880c9df4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVyQia)2023-08-13_08-34-46 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVyQia) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53115015183_91617437f9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVAkvR)2023-08-13_08-35-23 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVAkvR) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53114935720_ae027a4304_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVzVTN)2023-08-13_08-35-34 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVzVTN) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53113930667_2292b1cb9c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVuM8i)2023-08-13_08-35-42 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVuM8i) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53114936055_a4c558dbc5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oVzVZz)2023-08-13_08-35-49 (https://flic.kr/p/2oVzVZz) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

That first and last fender shot...ooof I love them. 

We all know it's there...anyone that see's the performance will have a clue as to what's there...

and in the inimitable words of Billy Crystal (Fernando Lamas) 'It is much better to look good than to be good'...artistic license applied...

Run the fenders. ;D

 [thumbsup] on the fenders.

What they said.

Fenders will look sensational. [beer]

Definitely fenders.

Fenders all the way.

No fenders! Period!  [evil]

I've always been partial to Gibsons, but to each their own.  As they say.

Drivers side floor stuff-

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53143686530_624c0f3907_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oY8hvq)2023-08-26_03-30-08 (https://flic.kr/p/2oY8hvq) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53143686990_38986e46ce_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oY8hDm)2023-08-26_03-30-20 (https://flic.kr/p/2oY8hDm) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53143268366_bf570f6cae_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oY69cG)2023-08-26_03-30-29 (https://flic.kr/p/2oY69cG) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53142681662_6e55a21dc7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oY38N7)2023-08-26_03-30-36 (https://flic.kr/p/2oY38N7) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53143750823_722f5624b1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oY8BBV)2023-08-26_03-30-43 (https://flic.kr/p/2oY8BBV) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53143751253_e38257606a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oY8BKk)2023-08-26_03-30-54 (https://flic.kr/p/2oY8BKk) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53142682427_4ed117daef_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oY392i)2023-08-26_03-31-02 (https://flic.kr/p/2oY392i) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53143478399_bb2886511a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oY7dCX)2023-08-26_03-31-09 (https://flic.kr/p/2oY7dCX) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53143689015_18691deb59_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oY8ifg)2023-08-26_03-31-19 (https://flic.kr/p/2oY8ifg) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

 :D

So...how's it coming along?

I built the passenger side floor pan but I'm not in love with it yet. I've been ordering parts and collecting them.

Work has gotten in the way.  The shop has been very busy and my ability to not work on Fridays has gone away. So for the last month I've been there 5 days a week 50 to 60 hours.

Right now I'm in the process of planning out how the interior is going to come together. Mainly talking about where switches are going to go and things like that.

Ordered some HID headlights that will be able to mount in the factory headlight pods. Likely will need some adaptation but I can do that.

I finally was able to get paperwork from Vermont so I have an actual title for the thing now. I can take that paperwork and transfer it to an antique plate in Pennsylvania. No inspection needed.

I don't want to do it, but I am likely going to buy a Holley two-piece intake that has an air to water intercooler sandwiched between the two.

It's expensive as hell but will really make a difference for packaging and cut down on a lot of fab time. It will also help mitigate excess intake plumbing. So even though I know I'm probably going to get it, I'm avoiding it because of the cost.

I just need to psych myself up to order it.

One thing I don't have and haven't thought about very much are tail lights. I need some ideas on that.

Maybe tail lights like these?

(https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/upload_2023-7-9_15-8-21-jpeg.5780108/)

(https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/upload_2023-6-24_19-27-8-jpeg.5766434/)

No fenders to mount them on. There's actually nowhere to mount lights on the back of the truck. I'll have to create something.

Got a pic of the back?

Not directly from the back. I'll have to snap one tomorrow

Actually, it's similar to the Ford picture you posted. Just imagine the fenders aren't there at all.

Will it have a rear bumper?

I don't know. I like the look without one but I wonder if I'll ever regret not having one.

Currently I've loosely been thinking of fabing two rectangular aluminum housings to mount lights to the lower areas of the rear of each bed side.

If you do a bumper, it gives you a spot.

The rectangular housings will definitely work, but might look a bit like a trailer setup.

Hmmm yeah it looks like the trailer light motif was common on trucks

(https://hips.hearstapps.com/autoweek/assets/s3fs-public/19-legacy-power-wagon.jpg?resize=980:*)

I don't dislike it though

I've seen circular ones put in the bedrails. They looked good, but were a bit less visible, IMO. May not be an issue with modern LEDs.

I like this idea.

They would have to be like 1-in diameter to fit the bed rails

Dave-

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53243424341_d13186d85c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2p7Wt5R)2023-10-08_12-51-44 (https://flic.kr/p/2p7Wt5R) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53243424556_504b53e31e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2p7Wt9y)2023-10-08_12-51-50 (https://flic.kr/p/2p7Wt9y) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53243424706_11f72d159d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2p7Wtc9)2023-10-08_12-51-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2p7Wtc9) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

A few ideas maybe.

'41 Chevy lights

(https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/img_0581-jpg.4562354/)

'37 Ford tail lights

(https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/c-jpg.5143461/)

46-48 Ford PU tail lights

(https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/dsc01329-jpg.5143705/)

(https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/dsc02209-001-jpg.5143706/)

Lol, right here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/195136420577?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1_JDrRwZqRtqv-a-actzgdg71&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=195136420577&targetid=1644837435963&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9001867&poi=&campaignid=20398863052&mkgroupid=157274709968&rlsatarget=pla-1644837435963&abcId=9317264&merchantid=115303068&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpompBhDZARIsAFD_Fp9vEmXPIQkD7wZEK1081_jFFiRsNQUiKPfdyfZU5bMsZOqsVqx9HisaAns2EALw_wcB

(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MPEAAOSwaKVcilZ0/s-l500.jpg)

That might be a winner. I could pull that off with what I have here.

Interesting concept. I think I would be worried that they're not visible enough. Like you said, maybe the LED factor improves it enough to be functional

Trailer lights may be the current leader
https://www.amazon.com/FABOOD-Trailer-Sequential-Running-Taillight/dp/B08MKRWYDM/ref=asc_df_B08MKRWYDM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475855973431&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3730764881882323806&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006408&hvtargid=pla-1039986788622&psc=1

I like the Ford PU style better. It's your truck though. :-*

Aesthetically for me the Ford lights win  Safety wise the position may be an advantage.  Eye level instead of looking down.

Either the Ford lights or my trailer trash lights would be about the same eye level.

Who could possibly catch you? A coupla snails....maybe some nitrous.

I've never seen anyone drive over their own crankshaft, but I think you can manage it.  ;D

That's what I like about you Dave.

Unwaivering support.

Hello, saw this and reminded me of this thread

https://www.motorauthority.com/news/1141155_desert-power-wagon-restomod-is-a-400k-throwback?utm_source=MA+-+Daily+Headlines&utm_campaign=bdc432cba1-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2023_10_18_04_05&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_fed581d99a-bdc432cba1-%5BLIST_EMAIL_ID%5D

I've seen stuff like that before. As a matter of fact, my buddy does all the fab work for another local company that would be a competitor power wagon builder to those guys.

I love it but I wish they didn't do the modern interior

I'm allergic to short beds, so there's that.

Yeah those proportions look a bit off, huh?

Yeah-especially compared to the original.

(https://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/1521239699c14862cDodge-Power-Wagon-Bring-a-Trailer-BaT-Model-Page.jpg)

That looks right in all the right ways

Notice that it has rear fenders. ;D

Yeah if I were going to run fenders the rears would be open like that.

Recent research has revealed the bed I have is not a D series bed but rather a K/KB (40's, newer). I'm not sure if the D series fenders I have are a direct fit (the mounts didn't look like they lined up well)

Short beds are also a no-no for me and the way too modern interior, killed it for me

As is right and proper.  ;)

 ;D

(https://scontent-atl3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/395831834_638568741784692_65414420291447682_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p552x414&_nc_cat=102&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5f2048&_nc_ohc=cdve4SwNLZ0AX8nggIz&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-2.xx&oh=00_AfCDfen4MMy6o2mVrE7fyjToYJ4rfEc_inV_SRBmBHgTDQ&oe=654793C6)

But where would I get an empty bean can??

This is relevant.

https://i.imgur.com/0e3TFcB.mp4

🤣🤣🤣🤣😥😥

Someone should invite her to DIMBY.

The turbo set up and the bean video made my eve ;D

Switches are going here
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53309866933_32a7fffa5e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pdP19M)2023-11-04_06-24-22 (https://flic.kr/p/2pdP19M) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Bought HID headlights. High and low beam and white DRL that toggles to amber as a turn signal.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53309867303_009ba971ae_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pdP1ga)2023-11-04_06-24-34 (https://flic.kr/p/2pdP1ga) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53309867528_62a479a203_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pdP1k3)2023-11-04_06-24-42 (https://flic.kr/p/2pdP1k3) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53308751942_b48dc2c7bc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pdHhGN)2023-11-04_06-24-50 (https://flic.kr/p/2pdHhGN) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53309617951_4306d479c8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pdMJ8Z)2023-11-04_06-24-58 (https://flic.kr/p/2pdMJ8Z) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Picked up some reproduction Mooneyes cast aluminum light mounts.  It's clears the tire but not by much. I designed a 2" riser that fits under the light pod and makes plenty of clearance. I tested that by 3d printing a sample and it worked great (not actually shown in the pics).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53308752627_401f38f251_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pdHhUB)2023-11-04_06-25-10 (https://flic.kr/p/2pdHhUB) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

No trim rings came with the truck so I designed and 3d printed a sample which worked great. I'll make these from aluminum. 3 holes actually mount the ring to the pod (sandwiching the light) the rest of the holes are just blind tapped to make it look like it has nine bolts holding it together
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53309618691_d9c6566895_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pdMJmK)2023-11-04_06-25-21 (https://flic.kr/p/2pdMJmK) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53310094275_d19a108205_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pdQaJt)2023-11-04_06-25-28 (https://flic.kr/p/2pdQaJt) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Switch panel template. Holes needed adjusted. My CNC plasma pal is going to burn it out of 16ga and we'll powder coat it
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53309619191_620aa07276_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pdMJvn)2023-11-04_06-25-37 (https://flic.kr/p/2pdMJvn) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

This floor. make the beast with two backs this floor 🤣 The passenger side hit me hard with lessons.  Next time I'm doing the floor a little differently. But it fits and it's functional. I still need to make some patches to cover the bolts in the corners but that's for another day. I'm tired of looking at it right now so I'm working on other things
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53309977529_9c02828e9a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pdPz2B)2023-11-04_06-25-45 (https://flic.kr/p/2pdPz2B) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Ultimately I'll make a right angle patch to cover this seam that will be riveted into place.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53309619746_6981ffa513_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pdMJEW)2023-11-04_06-25-54 (https://flic.kr/p/2pdMJEW) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53309870128_33d28b65ba_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pdP26S)2023-11-04_06-26-02 (https://flic.kr/p/2pdP26S) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

That's it for now ...

 [evil] [evil]

Lookiong good

Had to take s few weeks off. I lost two weeks to Covid.  0/10. No desire to ever experience this again. The past week I've been at about half power. Feeling pretty good now though. Managed to work a little last weekend and a good bit this weekend at the shop machining rings and risers.

More floor work. I decided to add curved triangular panels to fill in
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53357594677_110b8b9425_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi2BWV)2023-11-26_09-06-18 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi2BWV) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53358472366_d0d7bd6fe2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi77Ru)2023-11-26_09-06-31 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi77Ru) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53358931325_6a200fa674_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi9thz)2023-11-26_09-06-39 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi9thz) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Headlight trim/retaining rings. None came with the truck so I designed my own. 3d printed one to test and since that worked I made aluminum ones.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53357596202_166ed09b0f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi2Cpd)2023-11-26_09-06-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi2Cpd) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53358805504_1c098fb1ff_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi8PTf)2023-11-26_09-07-05 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi8PTf) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53358932460_91dea89b73_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi9tC9)2023-11-26_09-07-13 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi9tC9) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Only three holes are actually for mounting screws. Because it looked weird like that the rest of the holes are just tapped blind for some short 1/4-20 bolts to make it look more serious.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53358806094_4915644d53_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi8Q4q)2023-11-26_09-07-21 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi8Q4q) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Cast aluminum replicas of some Mooneyes light stalks from, I'm guessing, the 60's.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53358806399_84624534ce_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi8Q9F)2023-11-26_09-07-33 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi8Q9F) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53357597557_4f029156be_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi2CNz)2023-11-26_09-07-41 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi2CNz) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53357597682_6888a72aa4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi2CQJ)2023-11-26_09-07-49 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi2CQJ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Tapped the frame 1/4-28. It's actually pretty rigid. 12pt bolts to match everything else on the front end.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53358933785_15ab86edfa_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi9u1Z)2023-11-26_09-07-57 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi9u1Z) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I love the way this came out
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53358475106_5e5b59899d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi78EJ)2023-11-26_09-08-07 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi78EJ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53357598252_c1f8247a7c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi2D1y)2023-11-26_09-08-14 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi2D1y) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53358807639_d9a7225fbe_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pi8Qw4)2023-11-26_09-08-20 (https://flic.kr/p/2pi8Qw4) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

I like the effect. Old truck with cyborg headlights.

Something like what I was going for in my house using rough sawn posts to hold up engineered beams.

Rather fancy! 

I love it.

This. Those headlight rings look killer.

Here I was thinking the passengers side headlight housing was the same as the driver's side.

It's not even close. My parts don't work  [bang]

That sucks

Asymmetrical headlights, new design trend!

Adapt and overcome.

I just took these to show the alignment mechanism underneath the headlight housing. Pretty smart. Just a spherical dent that adjusts in all directions.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372832319_b4bbe0f04c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pjnHyT)PXL_20231202_201958973 (https://flic.kr/p/2pjnHyT) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

The piece I designed and machined to fit that dent
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371605897_7c1123d713_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pjgqZF)PXL_20231202_202005751 (https://flic.kr/p/2pjgqZF) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

The issue is the second headlight housing is a completely different design than the driver's side. I need to make myself a one quarter inch spacer to fit behind the headlight so that it stays tight against the trim ring. Not a big deal, I will 3D print it. I still had to assemble it all just so I could look at it.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372969620_666f7454c1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pjoqo9)PXL_20231202_203107471 (https://flic.kr/p/2pjoqo9) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371606537_785c70161f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pjgrbH)PXL_20231202_203118834 (https://flic.kr/p/2pjgrbH) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372702508_a30cfbed63_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pjn3YL)PXL_20231202_203131728.MP (https://flic.kr/p/2pjn3YL) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Meh.  With 750hp+ no one is going to see the asymmetric lights, just a blur.

Here's hoping [Dolph]

Looks good from my house 😀.

And mine.

(https://i.imgflip.com/vg7fd.jpg)

Tail light time. One of my requirements was that the tail lights were an all in one unit. And given the amount of technology in the front of the truck for lighting, I wanted the rear to match. So that meant LED

I ended up using one of those light bars that's supposed to go between a truck's bumper and tailgate as a supplemental brake light turn signal setup.

This is all LED and will act as running lights, brake lights, reverse lights, and sequential turn signals.

My problem was that the area under the tailgate was not anywhere near flat.

So I ended up fitting some 16 gauge square channel behind that area.  Using some strategically placed clamps I would get it flat and then drill a hole underneath for a cleco clip. I worked my way from one side to the other and while it isn't perfect, it's pretty good.

The LED light bar is meant to mount with double-sided sticky tape or these chintzy little clips that came with it. I wanted to use the tape.

My issue was that the wires exit this unit on the left side and not the back. The last thing I wanted was a big bundle of wire coming off the thing being visible.

So engineered a thin strip for the light to stick onto and also made some small cover boxes for each end of the light bar. The one on the left side has an opening in the back for the wiring to exit. You have to get underneath the truck to see it.

I ended up mounting this strip to my square channel via some strategically built right angle brackets that are welded to the light strip and our bolted to the square channel using riv nuts.

After everything was fit I shot some primer on the stuff under the truck just to get some coverage on it and clear coated the light bar strip because I liked the bare metal look for the end caps.

I'm super happy with the way it came out. The goal was to have the light bar essentially floating underneath the rear panel and that's basically the way it looks to me.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53417337887_a1c52b0f2b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poiPwg)PXL_20231210_195757164 (https://flic.kr/p/2poiPwg) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418690995_3635273de3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poqKKH)PXL_20231210_195815532.MP (https://flic.kr/p/2poqKKH) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418258001_26d9a9fd86_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poox3i)PXL_20231216_182904144 (https://flic.kr/p/2poox3i) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418692720_f4889cfa96_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLgs)PXL_20231216_182925030 (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLgs) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418692695_87977e9fe2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLg2)PXL_20231216_185631458.MP (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLg2) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418692590_933cd26906_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLed)PXL_20231216_195058453 (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLed) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418692480_1f88abc304_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLcj)PXL_20231217_200306913 (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLcj) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418692430_d2a1670b48_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLbs)PXL_20231217_200318922 (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLbs) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418692415_684e2603ff_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLbc)PXL_20231217_200325537 (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLbc) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418692375_bf9decff4c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLav)PXL_20231223_230434644.MP (https://flic.kr/p/2poqLav) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418257606_f98255e415_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poowVu)PXL_20231217_203917679 (https://flic.kr/p/2poowVu) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53417339172_c7d4447fe1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poiPUq)PXL_20231223_230831634 (https://flic.kr/p/2poiPUq) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418257451_639cc8768c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poowSP)PXL_20231223_230840220 (https://flic.kr/p/2poowSP) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53417339087_5342ac684a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poiPSX)PXL_20231223_230849491 (https://flic.kr/p/2poiPSX) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418581454_e579fca2ab_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poqcc5)PXL_20231223_230810939 (https://flic.kr/p/2poqcc5) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53418581384_e81a2b7205_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2poqcaS)PXL_20231223_230904247.MP (https://flic.kr/p/2poqcaS) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Now to figure out how to mount pedals...

Big day tomorrow. I'm going to test fit my intake and the air/water intercooler that fits into it.

Horsepower soon

It doesn't fit. Before I ordered parts I checked with the tape measure and that told me that things would fit, barely.  That seems not to be the case.

On the upside it's very close. Some slight trimming of the hood hinge flange and a flange on the firewall and I think we're in business.

10lbs in a 5lb bag all over again ;D

Just got done weighing it.

Right around 3000 dry.

I'm pretty happy with that.

Working on figuring out pedals. I need a master cylinder (,3 required) to confirm it won't hit the steering column. I got one coming that I know will work for the clutch and it's the same size as the ones that will be used for braking.

However, I need to know the weight to order the correct size bore brake masters. That was accomplished with the bathroom scale, and some boards then a little math. Basically, the tire is positioned 25% on the board so I multiply the scale reading by four.

I tried it on myself and it's accurate to within 15 lb which is good enough for me.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53433131702_193fb4ef74_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ppGLtq)PXL_20231225_185511435 (https://flic.kr/p/2ppGLtq) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53433133752_5159b211c6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ppGM5L)PXL_20231230_203612306.MP (https://flic.kr/p/2ppGM5L) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Came out to approximately 2900 pounds dry with no wiring or radiator or fluids.

Somewhere in the midst of all this, on Christmas Day I got a chip in my eye. I have no idea when it went in there, I suspect it fell out of my hair or something. By the time my eye was bothering me, it had been a couple hours since I've done anything with metal or tools.

I 100% do not recommend ever experiencing this. Nobody was open on Christmas and I was trying to avoid the ER because of cost and time. I tried to wait it out until my eye doctor opened the following morning but only made it to 2:30 a.m. I was in agony.

I went to the ER and waited from 3:00 a.m. until 8:00 a.m. for them to take me back only for them to not be able to get the chip out.

They sent me to a local eye doctor who dug it out with a needle and then went in with some kind of Dremel tool to polish the rust out.

It still doesn't feel right but it's far better than it was on Christmas.

Zoom in, the chip is basically dead center in my pupil. Before anyone asks, the brown spots are normal. That particular eye is two colors. Been that way since I was a kid.

Given the choice between this or covid again I would take covid even though that was absolutely horrible.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53433132507_eb89a31d1d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ppGLHi)PXL_20231226_014512537 (https://flic.kr/p/2ppGLHi) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Back to fun stuff.  Time to test fit this intake and see what needs to get cut for it to clear everything. Holley makes three versions of this and this is the one with the longest runners. I went that way for low-end torque.

I'm artificially limiting the RPM on this engine to around 6500. Even though the cam and intake will allow power to be made higher than that. I'm trying to keep the RPM down to help it live longer.  Traction is already going to be a huge issue.

This is a two-piece intake and as it happens to be, tick performance makes a sweet air to water intercooler that fits between the top and bottom halves.

Some minor trimming of the hood hinge flange and firewall flange was required but not much. It is a very tight fit and there is little clearance. May remove a bit more from the hood at a later date.

I had the wife help me pull the hood and grill this afternoon. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the engine in transmission and work on cleaning up some of the underneath areas of the cab and firewall while I wait for my brake master to show up. Sorry, clutch master.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53434203048_f95033b067_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ppNfWU)PXL_20231230_175054256.MP (https://flic.kr/p/2ppNfWU) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53434379644_491c65cbdb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ppParE)PXL_20231231_185144875 (https://flic.kr/p/2ppParE) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53433133717_2f752a2100_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ppGM5a)PXL_20231231_185652685.MP (https://flic.kr/p/2ppGM5a) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53434380904_ee491f6123_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ppPaPo)PXL_20231231_193723023 (https://flic.kr/p/2ppPaPo) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53434055726_1793db4147_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ppMv9S)PXL_20231231_193800994 (https://flic.kr/p/2ppMv9S) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53434381314_2bd257e28f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ppPaWs)PXL_20231231_193945729 (https://flic.kr/p/2ppPaWs) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53434381389_bda3d8137b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ppPaXK)PXL_20231231_203200987.MP (https://flic.kr/p/2ppPaXK) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

The hood closes. I can fit a piece of paper between the hood hinge and the top of the intake.

The motor mounts are solid so it shouldn't move around much ;D

Horsepower soon.

Been in several hospitals getting shit taken out of my eyes. It always seemed to happen when I was taking a layer off.

No fun.

I recall the Dremel of eye doom. Never in the history of "hold still" did that phrase mean so much.  :P

Not a whole lot to report these days. Work has been slow and somewhat sporadic because the shop has been taking up all my free time.

Stupid shop.

I've been trying to get the floor pans finished up so that I can get them coated and permanently installed. That's my current dream at least.

The floor pans inside the vehicle I'm going to have sprayed with line x.

Also fabricated some pans that mount underneath to fully close off the grid structure I created. Those I'm just going to spray with some primer and hit them with rubberized undercoating.

Additionally it looks like I'll be pulling the cab back off to address some surface rust underneath the original floor. That will have to get cleaned up and then sprayed with rubberized under coating.

Anyway here's a picture of the passenger floor pans in their permanent location but not permanently installed, obviously. Cleco clips are amazing. What a lifesaver. No idea how you could do something like this without them.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536842672_63b31c527c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pySj8A)PXL_20240218_230647976 (https://flic.kr/p/2pySj8A) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

Bonus pic because I thought it looked cool

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536855127_213351dd72_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pySnQk)PXL_20240218_231616117 (https://flic.kr/p/2pySnQk) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

How's the eye, ML?

Still in place, providing visual input daily.

I think that incident changed my prescription though. Or maybe I've just stepped up to the next level of "old"

 [evil]

Been busy building under cab paneling and a brake/clutch/throttle pedal bracket to bolt to the firewall. Finished up the final welds on that today.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53564342235_8ecaa7b2e6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBifMZ)PXL_20240225_214728383 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBifMZ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53564222939_b56868fecf_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBhDka)PXL_20240225_214836591 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBhDka) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53563045992_a5a91ff91d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBbBsY)PXL_20240302_191233312 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBbBsY) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53564223269_787c53d165_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBhDqR)PXL_20240302_191238568.MP (https://flic.kr/p/2pBhDqR) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53563046472_5998e0a6dd_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBbBBf)PXL_20240302_221959309 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBbBBf) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53564093938_f37942a05f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBgYZ1)PXL_20240302_221953053 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBgYZ1) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53564223749_e5c3861a15_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBhDz8)PXL_20240302_221949159.MP (https://flic.kr/p/2pBhDz8) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53563046677_85119b755c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBbBEM)PXL_20240302_193313726 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBbBEM) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr



(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53563046622_9b6b76b60b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBbBDQ)PXL_20240302_193654292 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBbBDQ) by Kevin Ames (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156467625@N04/), on Flickr
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So the masters are in the cab as opposed to the engine compartment?

Correct. Reservoirs are remote mount on the fire wall- engine side

Are you going to run one, or two reservoirs?

Three. Clutch gets its own and the brake pedal gets a reservoir for each master.

Que?

Two brake masters? Do tell.

Check the picture of the pedal assembly in the truck again. There are three masters there. The clutch gets its own, the front brakes gets their own reservoir and master and the rear brakes get their own reservoir and master.

There is a balance adjustment in the pedal assembly to fine tune front rear ratio.

It's a safety thing. If one of the systems fails you still have either front or rear brakes. Or you've lost them both and you're totally hosed 🤣

Dual mastes are also a requirement for a PA Street Rod registration since I abandoned the antique registration idea.

Odd that a street rod needs two brake masters and every other 4 wheeled vehicle on the road only needs one. Granted they're split systems with a proportioning valve..  ???

Carry on.

Split master is required for vehicles running tires wider than 9 in. If I were running skinnier tires then I could just go with a single master and a proportioning valve somewhere.

Still seems odd, to me anyway. WTF does tire width have to do with it? [laugh]

God knows. I don't make the rules I just dance around them ;D

If I clean the rust off he underside of the cab and i sprayed the epoxy primer I used on my frame-

-would it handle an imperfectly clean panel?  I doubt I can get all the rust

-would it play nice with rubberized undercoating?

I'm going to assume you're asking me... ;D

Any rust that's there, left untreated, will continue to grow. That's why they call it cancer.

If it were me, I'd spray the rust with SEM Rust-Mort to try and convert the rust to magnetite, and use something other than epoxy, because that product will cause poor adhesion for the epoxy. Get a urethane primer, which will work fine with the undercoating, and the acidic surface left by the Rust-Mort.

I'll stop by the paint store tomorrow and see if they can hook me up with something in an aerosol can. I don't have a very large area that needs treated.

So this rust mort, can I just spray it right on the rust? Or do I need to get rid of as much rust as possible before I begin and anything I miss the product will just take care of?

She looks naked!

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Any loose scale you can remove is a plus. If it turns black after the treatment it was a success. Problem is if you turn the surface to magnetite and there's red rust underneath it won't work.

Make sense?

make the beast with two backsin rust.

I'm sure I'll have more questions

Ask away...

The trick is to crawl underneath it and knock everything loose with some high speed wire wheel or some such until all that stuff lands in your hair and your eyes, at which point you'll know you're done.

Then have some ribs.

There a good way to fill to master cylinders?

I did like the way some VW cars split the dual master-each portion got a front and a rear wheel. That way if you lost half....you'd have 50% stopping power, as opposed to around 90 or...10.

I imagine you'd want to set that up as LF/RR and RF/LR?

Probably, unless you're racing Nascar.

That is what they did, though.

I'm not sure how that would work for me since I have to run two different size masters for the front and rear. Cool concept though.

Exactly my thoughts.  Different pressure F/R.  My concern if it were L/R is the pull to one side or the other that you'd get.

Wouldn't work for you at all, it just came to mind seeing that setup.

All front wheel drive cars since the dual master was mandated.

Do you neutralize the Rust-Mort in some way after or just prime right over it?

Keep it wet until the rust is gone/converted, then rinse.

https://www.johnsonautobodysupply.com/media/pdf/SEM-69508-TDS-rust-mort.pdf

Thanks, I ordered some.

Rust mort requires a water rinse to stop the reaction then dry it so flash rust doesn't start. Needs primed pretty quick after.

Or so the data sheet says

No auto body supply house nearby?

There's one in the next town but I dislike the asshole running it.

My normal distributor is in Worcester, somehow their prices are close to those at coast airbrush-I normally go there but didn't feel like driving-I've got a bunch of welding and what not before I need it, anyway.

I haven't figured out how I'll rinse it yet.

The cab will be suspended in the air by my motor crane and I'll be laying underneath it working overhead.

I don't have any water in that building either.

Get a cheap garden sprayer. Pump it up and git er done.

It's important to remove all the rust-mort. Primer won't stick to the residue.

How does this stuff rate?  It's my plan b in case I can't get Rust Mort.

https://warehouse9000.com/products/3-aerosol-cans-rust-converter-stops-corrosion-rust-paintable-usa-made_112974542420_

This is how it turns into a "What'd you make the beast with two backs up now" call  ;)

Plan c is wire it to bare metal and prime.

I don't want to have to get down to plan c

Never heard of it.

Reporting in.

I have the cab hanging and used a wire brush to scrub the underside of the cab. The rust wasn't very thick.

So far I've brushed on two coats of rust mort. It takes a long time to dry between coats. 45 minutes  or so. The temp is 65°+

It's not turning black at all. Either something is wrong or it takes a while to blacken. The sheet says leave it cure for 24hrs then wipe down with a wet rag.

 :-\

Is anything happening?

How would I know?  I'm still waiting for the second coat to dry. It's been about 40 min. Looks the same now as when I started. Except it's wet.

I never let it dry....always kept it wet the whole time..

Killing cancer is a tough proposition, and never quick.

The data sheet is not very clear. They don't tell you to leave it wet between coats or to let it dry looking at it again.

I'm going to brush a third coat on right now and call it a day. Hopefully it's black tomorrow when I take a look at it after work. 

The only danger in letting it dry is that the next coat needs to soften the previous, which lessens the time the product 'works'.

From your experience when does it turn black?

Non answer...when it's done. :-[

I just read the TDS...nowhere does it say to let it dry. In fact it says to keep it wet.

I think that's your problem.

I think a phone call is in order... [evil]

Argh. This is the tds I got from SEMs website -

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I'm not seeing where it says to keep it wet. I take the note about 1 heavy coat being slow drying vs 3-4 light coats. I take that to mean light coats dry faster vs heavy.

My guess would be blocking the oxygen needed for the conversion to black oxide.

If you are not happy with your results, I have used Corroseal on wrought iron with good results.  Might be different with sheet steel.  The ingredients are glycol ether  acetate and latex.  They claim you can top coat over it without primer.  I got my Corroseal from Moss Motors.  My thought is if it works on old rusty British cars...  I aiso hear good things about Eastwood Black Rust Encapsulator.  Then again, if it is a top coat as well as a converter can you tell if it worked?

  https://mossmotors.com/232-205-corroseal-rust-converter
  https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-black-rust-encapsulator-paint-over-rust.html

This is what I'm reading on the SEM site... https://semproducts.com/public/content/techsheets/sem_tds_rust-mort.pdf

BRUSHING:
Apply multiple coats, keeping the area wet with Rust Mort until all rust is converted or removed. The longer the
surface is kept wet, the better the final result. After completion, remove any excess or non-converted Rust Mort
by rinsing with water and a brush. Make certain all surfaces are completely dry before proceeding with body filler
or primer per manufacturer’s recommendations. Failure to remove excess material can result in loss of adhesion of
subsequent top coats. Limit exposure after drying the surface to eliminate flash rust.

That's a completely different tds the the one I got off their website. Wtf

No clue...

I'd recommend cleaning off the dried product, and use it like it states in the TDS I linked to. I've used the product before, and it works if you keep it wet, and clean with water before it dries.

Just got an email back from sem tech.

Apparently rust mort is designed for heavy rust. They said with surface rust it very likely will not turn black.

I was advised to wipe it down with a wet rag before applying anything over top of it.

Sounds like I'm okay.

https://www.tat-co.com/Products/Repair/Specialty-Coatings/2-in-1-Primer

This is the primer they sold me. I asked for urethane and I don't see that word anywhere on this can or on the TDS for this product.

[bang]

You don't want to hear what I think.

ML......call him    [evil]

It's your turn in the barrel!  [laugh]

Course has already been corrected.

Side note- the tech support number for SEM is funny. They don't even bother trying to answer they just outright tell you we're too busy to answer the phone right now and to leave a message.

I also sent an email into tech support which they did respond to fairly quickly. I have not gotten a call back.

It sounds like this stuff wasn't really meant for surface rust even though you can use it in that application. Looks like it's meant for heavier rust that's beyond surface.

Our tech support works sort of the same way, you call, leave a message and a tech[me] will call you back

Yeah but if I didn't want to talk now I'd send an email ;D

In our case is that during the c19 era, we all went to work from home ... I was connected directly to the phone central but, then the ISP provider made changes and we couldn't get the calls directed to us]back then], me now, directly ... So, gotta call and leave a message ... My phone number will ring for you if you were to call directly but, I would NOT know you are dialing since it's 'an outgoing line only' ... Plus, I'm about 5 000 miles away from Detroit

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Floors are permanently installed now :)

Had to move the passenger side turbo drain because I didn't think about it when I initially put it in and the starter blocks it [laugh]

I used bulkhead AN fittings the first time because I was afraid to weld on the pan. This time I went the weld route. Looks ok to me so here's hoping it doesn't leak through the weld.

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And now I'm fixing paint. Again.

[laugh]

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I was also able to get the engine and transmission back in by myself. And got the starter mounted. Pretty solid 9 hours of work today.

I'm just happy that things are more assembling versus disassembling now. It's a big deal.

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 [clap]

How'd it go?

Ya know...if'n you did all your friggen fabricating before you painted...

it would look better. :-*

I did all the fab before paint. Things just needed a little clearance. When I painted initially, I had a different plan for headlights.

Adapt and overcome.

I think it came out pretty well. The only real way to know is look at it in daylight which is a little ways off. Looking at it with a spotlight though, things look pretty decent.

I ended up buying a detail spray gun at harbor freight for $15. And it actually did a pretty good job.

I masked a bunch of the frame and tried to do it in such a way that the line wouldn't show. Well, we all know how that goes.  

Before things were dry I pulled the masking and there were some sharp edges that showed. I fogged them out and it looks like it worked. And I'm pretty sure I managed to keep the paint where the paint was supposed to go.

 [thumbsup] Good call on the detail gun.

...for the record...clearance is fabrication... ;D

Been working steadily and plan to continue that. Still lots to do but less so every time I'm out here turning wrenches on it.

Intake assembly did not exactly go to plan. Turns out the bolts that came with my intercooler were out of spec. One of them so much that it turned into a self-wocking bolt.

The holes in the intercooler didn't line up exactly with the intake but it was pretty close. I had all the bolts started a couple turns and was running them in gently with my cordless impactor. Done this many times. I did two and noted they were a little snug and the third one was when I decided to pull the plug. I didn't like the way it felt. I took the first two out and all the rest that I had started just a couple turns. The third one I had driven in was permanent.

Pipe wrench didn't work. Welding and nut to the stud and trying to turn it out failed four times, shortening the stud each time.

I ended up grinding it flush, center punching it, drilling it out oversized, tapping it for a thread insert and installing a thread insert. That worked. The whole process really took the wind out of my sails last weekend though.

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I am officially obsessed with 12 point fasteners. I love the way they look.

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Old, crappy tailgate bolts got replaced with new stainless hardware and cap nuts. I've been looking at them for 3 years and always knew I would replace them then the other day just about tore and ass cheek off on one of them. So they got replaced now.
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And on to my shifter fiasco. I never caught it but the tremac t56 Magnum, and the t56s that come in all the Camaros and whatnot all have the shifter rolled towards the driver something like 10°. I never noticed it.

I cut the hole for the shifter in the center of my transmission tunnel and after everything was installed the shift lever was damn near up against the left side of that hole.

I was able to find a nifty adapter that lets you adjust the shifter angle something like 15° any direction. As it turns out it was designed for the stock tremec shifter location which is at the rear of the transmission.

I am using the mid shift option which puts the shifter about 8 in forward and is a slightly different design. The adapter interfered with the body of the shifter so I ended up making this bracket to raise the adapter up vertically as well as bend it more towards the passenger side some unknown number of degrees. It'll all be covered by the shift boot anyway so even though it looks bulky it won't matter because no one will ever see it.  I cut my shifter out of a piece of plywood just for mock-up purposes and everything came out pretty perfect as far as the location of my hand in space and the shift lever not hitting the dash or steering wheel etc.

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I am now at the point where I need to figure out where I will mount a battery, where I will mount my ECU and how I will route my wiring. I have also found a hydraulic parking brake apparatus that will essentially keep the rear brakes locked using just brake pressure from the pedal. It's small and I probably should install it to pass the enhanced inspection when I go through that process. Nice thing is it will be out of the way and not bulky like a big handle that you pull in your Honda Accord.

And beyond mounting all those things and routing all those wires will be constructing turbo manifolds.

I have concerns about the weight of the turbos being so far outboard of the engine since I need to route the piping under the hood and back up in space. I don't have a way to keep them tight to the block, at least that I've yet discovered.

Option would be to go straight up through the hood on each side but I'm not as keen on that look.

Everything's up in the air at this point. It shakes out how it shakes out.

 8)

Man, I just went back and looked through the beginning few pages of this thread. Have I had this truck almost 3 years and been working on it for almost 2 and 1/2???

Where does the time go...

And the money, where has that gone?!?!?  Whatever, it's still cheaper than a kid or a gambling/ drug habit

I'm thinking this for the shift lever

Yay or nay

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I like it, but not for this truck.

I probably won't do it but what would you change

Most of the modern is hidden on this truck. I'm seeing a round bar shifter.

The voices in my head say not to.

I see what you're getting at but coil overs, led headlights, led tail lights, turbos hanging out the hood sides are all visible.

Even though what you say is true, I agree with Nate.

Trellis haters [laugh]

Fine...be that way.

Paint the make the beast with two backsing thing and your trellis shifter will work. :-*

Paint the truck or paint the shifter?

Me and paint aren't the best of friends

The truck. [evil]

 :o :o :o

Nah. Classic Hurst lever with a white ball.

^^  This.

+1 (or 2, I guess).

No.

Gennie shifters are the proper amount of classic. No trellis. No. It'll make your turbos sound like a dry clutch.

Seems unanimous...but Kev will do Kev. ;D

IMHO, whatever this guy is using...https://youtube.com/shorts/de_WrJqAbjU?si=SaDIaYuWioCHZZLe

Embrace the twin stick.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2zwd1iazvU

I'm still doing it. It'll match the digital dash ;D

Fired.

Clean out your locker.

You can't tell me what to do. You're not my real mom

I didn't raise you like this!

Can I drive it?

That idea worries me a bit

Also, the steering wheel is on the wrong side.  So I think I'll be fine to drive it too.

You won't live to regret it.

I always thought you were thorough.

Thinking more on that shifter....

I had a flash of an idea around repurposing a large combination wrench.  Box end would be the shift knob side.  Maybe just to get up and running.  I'm short on time with my vertical mill so milling my trellis shifter may take some time to get through.

Can't be any worse looking that a steel bar like you guys all love [laugh]

I like the idea.  Question is can you make it comfortable?

The sun wasn't blotted from the sky until you went off course with your shifter here, ML.

I told everybody to send me a dollar or I would block out the sun. Nobody believed me.

It's....um..... it's your truck.

I'm just trolling

(https://iamzuri.com/wp-content/uploads/bfi_thumb/IAZ-trolls-14ud9vmpsgx8vw2pxb8hodvk803s8zbygk300q4l37cwoli4.png)