Ducati Monster Forum

Hey fellas,
About 10 months ago my Monster was declared is a state of emergency after 70K miles. The starter sprag began giving me grief and then I found out that the main shaft needed re-shimming. All of that amounted to an EXPENSIVE fix. So, I sat tight and I finally came across a low milage motor 6k miles!

So, I am going to have the local shop perform the desmo service and I am going to swap the engines myself (hopefully).

I have already built a bench to put the bike on, lifting it about 2' off the ground so that should really help.

Since Jeff at Monsterparts is gone  :'( who would you guys recommend for securing odds and ends? In the past I have bought from Motowheels and Motivation USA, does anyone else come to mind that I should look into?

I have done a bit of looking on Youtube but I have not found where anyone has posted a video of a detailed engine removal of my specific bike; is anyone aware of one that I may have missed?

I do have the official Ducati service manual; is there some other reference material I should source?

I am looking forward to getting started in the coming weeks!

Mark

See what Chris at https://ca-cycleworks.com/ has for you. He's our only paying major sponsor these days.

Go to Tech and search "new frame" and "engine swap". That'll give you all the info you'll need (and of course a bit more). It's not rocket science, but worth preparing correctly.

My own frame swap https://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=73772.15

I will absolutely take a look there, thanks.

Mark

I feel like such a fraud.  Mate, we've all been here all these years... yours has done 70K in that time.... and mine has done 16K miles :-[

Nevertheless, we're about to tear down similar bikes.  And since two heads are thicker than one.... here I am.  Let's share the fun.

 [popcorn]

I intend to leave my old engine in until I get the new one serviced. If I pull my engine now and then they to install the new one in a month (or whatever) I will forget a lot of stuff. It makes sense to me to pull the engine and re-install as quickly as possible to minimize the forgetful factor.

I am about to go out and pull the exhaust though as I want to polish that up while I have a bit of time.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52541901587_648f11dfa2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o3WYNX)20221202_192351 (https://flic.kr/p/2o3WYNX) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

Here is a pic of the workbench I made. It will raise the bike 2 feet off the ground saving me some back ache. I put the shelves at the top and bottom just as a place to put stuff. The one on the top is only held in by a few screws as I'll have to move it to suspend the rear of the bike when I remove the swingarm.

I have the Zook in there now as a bit of a test run because I have to change the front brake disc. I may have missed a bit on the overall height as I have had to remove the mirrors on the Zook and I will the Duc as well. Oh well, live and learn.

I put it on retractable casters so I can roll it out of the way allowing for GLW's car to still be parking in the garage.

I am really looking forward to doing this!

Ung, what kind of setup are you utilizing?

Mark

Maybe the top shelf is high enough to suspend the bike from it?

It is, but I would have done myself a favor by making it a bit higher. There are cross beams that I'll utilize to suspend the rear end.

Mark

... haven't thought much about it yet.   I suspect I'll be grovelling about on the ground  ;D

Although it's not an apples to apples comparison... I can bring the 796 over if you are confused about something.  It might be close enough to figure out.  I'm also around if you need a second set of hands.... or I can just stand there and tell you how wrong you are doing everything.   ;D

6K miles, eh?  Nice score!

What....?  Doing too many stoppies on the Zook?

I may call you in to oversee/manage/supervise when the time comes!

Mark

Is this the look I am going for when cleaning up my exhaust? Hopefully you can tell that the one on the right has been done.....

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52545484309_2529d756eb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o4gkQ2)20221205_145420 (https://flic.kr/p/2o4gkQ2) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

Mark

I've heard of some using nitric acid then polishing with a wheel.

Never tried it myself.

The ones I've seen done were then  cleaned of all compound, installed, and then wiped with solvent to remove fingerprints. The bike gets run with the absolutely spotless pipes and they turned gold, They were beautiful.

I've used some very potent UK toilet cleaner (illegal here) to get rid of that dark grey. Then polish.

I found a couple of OLD threads on the subject and one of them used WD40 and Scotch Bright pads, however, the images in the thread were no longer showing. That is the method I went with since I had those things handy. Acid sounds scary and I don't want to get involved in black market toilet bowl cleaner!  [laugh]

I'll roll with this for now. I am really quite surprised how much they cleaned up.

Mark

Since money is no object... you ought to send them off and have them ceramic coated!  That's what I want to do with mine... 

Better living through chemistry. ;D

Federal authorities intercepted a container load of illicit........ toilet cleaner [laugh]

I used the WD40/scotchbrite method or scotchbrite then one of the Autosol/Mothers metal polishes with ok but not brilliant results.

Solvol Autosol and a gazillion hours of elbow grease brought my Guzzi headers up all shiny new. 

Muriatic acid for the win.

Hours of elbow grease for shiny? Not this kid.

Mark... I got lots of Muriatic Acid!  ;)

I'm curious... what % solution to use for something like that?

Start at the recommended 10:1 water to acid, and see how it works. You can go stronger if it's too slow, or doesn't work.

Gloves and goggles necessary.

Apply - wait - rinse - repeat = an hour

Autosol an hour.

(https://i.postimg.cc/zfncWfqd/eksos-20-001.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBdmZh95)

(https://i.postimg.cc/152CjFtC/eksos-20-002.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gnyHwn38)

(https://i.postimg.cc/DfCY1HKK/eksos-20-004.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xqzR2sCs)

(https://i.postimg.cc/C56PYB4K/eksos-20-005.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BPHcBvkW)

(https://i.postimg.cc/JnMdQWnR/eksos-20-006.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/06Xf8FD4)

Using the acid, would I use the scotch bright pads again, or do the pipes get submerged into the acid?

Mark

I'd just brush, or spray, it on. Keep them wet until they're clean. I suppose the extra elbow grease couldn't hurt, but you may have scothbrite scratches to polish out.

If you have a container deep enough to submerge them, and enough acid that would work, but you'd have a lot of acid to dispose of.

Mark,

I just dropped 3 cases of acid off at my brother's house over Thanksgiving.  He uses it to clean engine parts on his (salt water) boat... although I'm not sure of the exact application.

Your skwerrel bucket would work for a 10:1 solution, but as ducpainter mentioned, you'd have some acid to dispose of.  I don't know if I'd put it in the pool... because it might have metals in it, and that won't do the plaster any good.  You could also neutralize it with sodium bicarb (baking soda,) which I also have in quantity.  That bucket with 10:1 could be neutralized with 4 scoops of BiCarb... easy peasy.

We'll discuss next time I see you.

Mark

How much do we think a dry M1100 engine weighs?

I'm gonna say about 150+. A bit more with whatever stand you use.

My new engine is on a small pallet and just going by the "it feels about" method I'd say DP is in the ballpark.

I didn't think about it until now, but I'll check the shipping documents and see if there is a weight on there.

Mark

About 70kg I reckon ;D

Howdy boys and a Happy New Year!

Not much going on here the last few weeks but I did do a bit tonight. I pulled the chain off as it needs replacing and I figured I'd drain the oil as well. When I pulled the magnetic drain plug, I found this:

 (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52594960404_d20e31202a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o8CVm9)20221229_181649 (https://flic.kr/p/2o8CVm9) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

Is that consistent with what you'd expect based on the diagnosis? As a refresher based on the output shaft movement I was told that it needed to be reshimmed (paraphrasing). I am just curious because I was kinda shocked when I saw the shavings on the drain plug.

Additionally, I pulled the Rizoma belt covers off and found this:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52595219483_901bb763a3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o8Efn2)20221229_181710 (https://flic.kr/p/2o8Efn2) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

Which means my vertical cylinder rear belt tensioner was rubbing against the cover. Normal?

Again, it isn't really that important and I have a new motor; I am just wondering what the collective thought is.

I'm going to bring the engine to the dealer for desmo service one day next week, I should have a ballpark weight on the engine alone once we get to moving it.

Cheers boys, shit is happening!

Mark

Mark, did you cut the oil filter open?

That's a fair amount of metal shards on the magnet rather than the usual metallic sludge.

I did not cut the filter open, but it is still in the drain pan. Watcha thinking?

And of course I was going to get the engine to the dealership tomorrow for the once over and a coil on my truck decided to take a shit! Easy enough job, expect it is still missing after replacing said coil.  [bang] [thumbsdown]

Eff me......

Mark

coil over plug?

Are you sure of the cylinder that's not firing?

Yep, coil over plug. I was told #1 and that #1 is the front passenger side. I confirmed that is where #1 is. I assume the dude at Autozone knows how to read the information that the error code reader spits out......

Mark

It turns out the truck had an injector failure, not a coil failure.

Fixed this weekend and I'll be able to get the engine moved next week.

Fingers crossed...........

Mark

I finally got the engine to the dealership and the bike is getting torn apart.

I have everything removed to take the swingarm off except the shock: is the best option removing the shock from the bike (at the top) or remove the shock from the swingarm (at the bottom)?

My rolling workbench is working like a charm, I am glad I did that!

Mark

Whichever way let's you remove the top bolt head without scratching the frame with the tool. The lower bolt is accessed via lifting the swingarm on a rear stand while the motor is on an engine stand. Others may have some  different tricks.

Not happening.  Maybe next winter.  I can't raise the required enthusiasm.... 

Motivation is a weird thing. I absolutely LOVE to go shooting, it is just that most of the time I don't WANT to!

The excitement of me replacing the engine has been replaced by the fact that I now MUST replace my engine!

I will still post things that I think may be helpful to you Ung.

The engine is still at the dealership; the mechanic said the valves were out of whack pretty good, so good thing that was my first stop!

I should have it back this week then I can go DEEP into my plan.

Mark

That was me this past Sunday.  I hate going to public ranges on the weekend... but I did because my daughter's boyfriend wanted to go, and Sunday is the only day he has available.  I joined that Texas Legends place in Allen... which seems decent enough.

Question:  Referencing the 2V air cooled motors in general... the standard service interval is 7500mi, do the valves really go out of tolerance that much in 7500mi?

I have been told in the past that the 1st valve check is the most important; after that things seem to calm down and as the miles click off, future valve adjustments require less adjusting.

Mark

Well boys, I have run into my first head-scratcher; I cannot get the swingarm shaft to even act like it wants to budge! I have removed the footrests, removed the wedge shaped bolt on the right side and the snap ring, also on the right side.

This is what the right and left sides look like now:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52651496734_38c566703e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2odCFCs)20230126_193632 (https://flic.kr/p/2odCFCs) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52651666090_934b5fdf98_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2odDxYo)20230126_193552 (https://flic.kr/p/2odDxYo) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

I am trying to drive the shaft from the right (clutch) side through to the left (chain) side. When I strike the shaft with a rubber mallet I get a HARD stop, it is like it has NO interest in moving.

Do I need to get something more solid and give it a go?

Oh, the engine should be ready for pickup this weekend!

Mark

I'd use a regular hammer with a block of wood, or ideally a large diameter brass drift to break it free. A rubber mallet won't impart enough shock.

That was my thinking but I wanted a second opinion before I leaned into it a bit!

Will I need to continue to drive the shaft through the swingarm/engine case, or once I get it pushed out the left side a little will it simply pull out from that side?

Another way of asking that; what size punch do you think I'll need? I can order one from work and I don't want to pay for a set as I can buy individual ones, I just need to know what size.

Mark

Workshop has a selection of timber off cuts. Special tools.

You may need to. Hard tellin'. I've heard tales of very rusty swing arm pivot shafts. I hear my SBK had one that was difficult to remove. I also hear pressure washing will drive water past the seals and contribute to rust.

Measure the end of the shaft and order a length of brass bar 1/8" smaller, and long enough to go all the way through.

I'm not a damn animal!!   ;D

But I do have a LOT of time spent riding in the rain. And HARD rain at times.

So, I am getting no movement at all using a hammer and a block of wood (what I have available). It seems that a brass punch as big as I need it is not going to be readily available. What are your thoughts on getting a brass hammer, setting that against the shaft and striking the brass hammer with another hammer?

Additionally, is it OK to hit the area with some liquid wrench and let it sit up?

Mark

Yes, and yes. It'll take whatever it takes.

The only downside to the brass hammer is if it needs to be driven after you break it loose.

Brass bar not available?... https://smile.amazon.com/Pieces-BRASS-SOLID-ROUND-Lathe/dp/B01F80WOZU/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3GARVCQCN81VX&keywords=3%2F4+brass+bar+stock&qid=1674873560&sprefix=3%2F4+brass+bar+%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-4

Thanks for the link, I am going to order a rod. I knew I could source what I needed; I was just hoping to find something that I needed OFF THE SHELF. I did manage to find a brass hammer, so, a bit of heat, some PB Blaster and the brass hammer has yielded movement! Not much, maybe 1/8".

The mechanic at the shop suggested moving the rod back and forth, as opposed to trying to keep pounding one direction. After he said that it seemed so obvious! Yet I would have done EXACTLY what he said not to do. But based on what I am feeling now, I think I'll have to get a piece of round bar to get it extracted.

I'll keep ya posted.

And the engine is in my garage and that feels really good!

Mark

Plan or replacing the bearings/seals.

That has been discussed.

So, major victory, minor setback:

First, the victory:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52655712428_e7c46616b0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oe1hNQ)20230128_200641 (https://flic.kr/p/2oe1hNQ) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

One I put a couple of heat cycles, PB Blaster and muscle it started to move pretty freely, so out it came!

Now the setback:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52655712418_8c1e0ebcda_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oe1hNE)20230128_200657 (https://flic.kr/p/2oe1hNE) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

I tried (unsuccessfully) to remove the bottom bolt on the shock. I failed. I supported the engine from below and went back to the top bolt and was able to release it.

Now my problem is this bottom bolt; it is bound up pretty good! It doesn't want to move either way. I'd be happy enough just screwing it back in, but it is reluctant to go for some reason. Have I FUBAR'd?

Mark

Sometimes...shocking with either an impact wrench, or hammer driver can create progress.

I am hesitant to use an impact driver going IN, but if the bolt is not out then it is still captured in the threads so I don’t have to worry about cross-threading, right?

Mark

That recessed section around the bolt should hold some anti seize liquid. Worth filling it with the swingarm on its side overnight. Nothing to lose. An impact driver should work and will damage the Allen head so you would replace the bolt, but a rattle gun will chew it out much worse.

You're trying to break a mechanical bond. No harm in going both directions.

That shock bolt would have come out by itself... if you were drinking Peroni.   [shot]

This was the winner, thanks for the advice. All set with that bolt.

It has gotten COLD here again, so no progress to be made the early part of this week.

Mark

Cripes, another day, another bolt problem. At least this one is little, literally:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669042216_c0d3a5806e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofbBhL)20230204_153220 (https://flic.kr/p/2ofbBhL) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669487450_e9c04d77e1_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofdTDd)20230204_162146 (https://flic.kr/p/2ofdTDd) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

This little bastard decided to break. I know there are options for using reverse threaded tools but I am afraid there is not enough meat here support something like that. There is enough exposed that I can get plyers/channel locks on the end, but I get to movement. I am working Koko's PO Baster and set up method, but is there something specific tool wise I should be using for such a small bolt?

 [roll] ???

Mark

Is a channel lock a mole wrench?

A mole wrench could be a vice grip or a locking adjustable wrench.  This is a Channel Lock, actually a brand name   https://channellock.com/product/430/

What I would do is grind or file that broken screw flat, center punch as close to center as possible and drill with a left hand bit while praying to whatever deities you can think of.

Ah, multigrips  :)

Mole wrench, Multigrips....WTF!?

You cannot be MAKING names up for tools!  ;D

So Howie, there are bits that that that small that are reverse thread?

Mark

Size of the screw?  I will look at my set tomorrow if I remember.

Yeah, koko64.  A muliigrip that doesn't bust your knuckles.

Where I come from a wrench is a spanner and we don't root for our teams ;) Grab that mothermake the beast with two backser with some multigrips after soaking in penetrine.

That's because all of the blood is flooding your brain from standing upside down all day.  [laugh]

Howie, the part number I have is 772.1.085.1C if that helps.

Mark

Do try what koko suggests first but with vice grips first.  Channel locks will not bite well enough and only chew up more of what is left.  I'll look up the part number shortly.

That helped. 5mm

As far as I know, the smallest drill bit you will probably find is 1/16" you would have less than .003", in my opinion too close.  If vice grips fail, maybe https://shop.snapon.com/product/Extractor-Set/Screw-Remover-Set-(Blue-Point)/YA2019

Howies right, use a Mole Wrench set very tight. The painted surface rules out heat. It's tricky.

Thanks for the advice on that little bastard. I'll keep you posted.

Next problem; I am working on the whole throttle body assembly and I cannot figure out what to with these connections:

Got it figured out!

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670805111_a1fca15fca_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofkDkv)20230205_124945 (https://flic.kr/p/2ofkDkv) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671241300_8c8fbb2eb2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofnT11)20230205_125003 (https://flic.kr/p/2ofnT11) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

I just don't get how there are disconnected.  ???

Oh, and this too:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670833926_45cf11924a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofkMUj)20230205_130551 (https://flic.kr/p/2ofkMUj) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

Easy enough to replace once I get the throttle bodies pulled?

Mark

I once struggled with the same connectors. The solution is NOT to rip off the steel clip (even if that also can work), but squeeze for the end locking tabs to let go.

Some of the cams can't be replaced, but yours can. Electraeon is out of stock for the fast throttlecam (every Ducati should have one), but can be contacted for whenever they have them back in stock. I think they need enough emails with interest to make more.

I also find a (very)  little WD 40 can help on older connectors, both for ease of removal and to prevent the plastic from cracking.

OK boys, through work I can get either of these at a rather discounted price:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52674136380_1ff8f224a9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofCHBb)thumbnail_image009 (https://flic.kr/p/2ofCHBb) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52674136385_b15cf254dc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofCHBg)thumbnail_image001 (https://flic.kr/p/2ofCHBg) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

Theoretically either looks like it will work, but given my current situation AND for long time keeps, which should I choose?

And on an unrelated note, my radiator looks like this:


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52673703866_d8af2383b3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofAv33)20230205_113301 (https://flic.kr/p/2ofAv33) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


Is that a "Holy shit replace that thing!" or "Meh, it's fine."?

Mark

I don't understand how those tools are going to work on a broken bolt. :-\

I'd take a small screwdriver and 'iron' out those fins.

Yep the fins require patience and a few beers. If it's not punctured then it's just a tedious job.

Torx set is for Torx bolts. Annoying version of Allen bolts.

I think the idea behind the Torx bolt is to drill a slightly smaller hole, then drive the Torx bit into the hole... then turn it out.  Theoretically it should work... but if you shear the Torx keys, you are screwed.

I've used a Torx bit to get out a stripped allen, but never tried it in a round hole.

Anything you break in a broken bolt, and you're screwed. [wasn't]

Leaving my level of screwed aside for a minute, lets return to this MF'er:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670833926_45cf11924a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofkMUj)20230205_130551 (https://flic.kr/p/2ofkMUj) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

Ducati doesn't list the cam as a separate part number, it is all just part of the larger potentiometer (I have honestly never heard that word before......) I have reached out to Electraeon but I honestly don't think my chances are great there. Any other efforts I should make?

Mark

It has to be an easy job for a 3D printing company.... Get/rent/buy drawings from Electraeon in exchange for sending them a few?

Maybe a used one on ebay?

I searched a little and this thread came up. It discusses the fix for the same problem on a HyperMotard 1100 - company called Star-Ace OR a cam from a 900ssie. Let's check if the HM use the same bits as yours and/or if the SS cam fits? Maybe Electraeon know....

https://www.ducati.ms/threads/hypermotard-1100-throttlebody-pulley-mod.737870/

Lars, thanks for the digging. I haven’t gotten a response from Electreaon, I really don’t expect to given 2010 look of their website. I’ll see if I can get a response from Giuseppe. I think the hyper engine and mine were the same, except for maybe gearing?

Mark

Update: Well, I contacted the wrong Giuseppe Starace! Apparently the one I am looking for has a pretty shady business history.  [thumbsdown] But all I can find for him is Instagram and Facebook stuff and I don't use wither of those!

Mark

What about Valtermoto, etc? Used parts dealers.
Or old stock from a dealer?

I did hear from Electraeon and it was basically "None in stock, we'll let you know if we ever get any." Not exactly confidence inspiring.

Thanks for the heads up on Valtermoto, I have reached out to them to see if they have an option/suggestion.

Meanwhile, this happened:


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52683261594_18d8e190ef_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ogruds)20230211_164556 (https://flic.kr/p/2ogruds) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr

We have final stage engine separation!


Mark

Looks like an uncontrolled explosion. ;D

Semi controlled.  :P

Mark

Cush drives?

"Absolutely, they must be replaced given the mileage"

                          OR

"Yeah, you should probably do those since it is all apart"

                          OR

"If they are still in one piece leave them alone"


Mark

I would change them.  Find a video first.

Ummm maybe not.  Mine were still good at 85K and the rear wheel comes off often enough for tires.

Unless you're powdercoating the wheels...if they're sound leave them alone.

They will be left alone. Thanks for the input.

Mark

Mark, dumb question...

I've got the stock Sachs shock of my 796... and assuming it's the same shock... you want a newer shock?  It only has about 10K on it...

FWIW, I've also got the old cush bushings off my stock sprocket... 10K on them, too.

Reassembly begins in earnest tomorrow!!!!


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52696780711_4d58835c9b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ohCLYF)20230218_154204 (https://flic.kr/p/2ohCLYF) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


And remember this little bastard?:


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669487450_e9c04d77e1_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofdTDd)20230204_162146 (https://flic.kr/p/2ofdTDd) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


Well, how about now?:


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52697271128_51fe1c0df0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ohFhL9)20230218_154244 (https://flic.kr/p/2ohFhL9) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


And:


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52696265182_2a786496a9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ohA8Jf)20230218_154255 (https://flic.kr/p/2ohA8Jf) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


I drilled it a bit to get an extractor in there and it was not budging at all. Nothing that I did mattered. So I kept drilling, got through, drilled larger and larger until I got to the size I needed to re-thread the damned thing.

Small victory.

Are you guys OK with me using this on all electrical connections before reassembly:


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52697041094_a3d196c92c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ohE7o3)20230218_154320 (https://flic.kr/p/2ohE7o3) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


It was given to me by a mechanic a while back. He used it on everything electrical. Just wondering what your collective thoughts are. This or something different?

MotoGP in Austin is in the middle of April; that is my running clock to get this SOB back on the road!

Mark

It's fat from sheep. Smells aweful, but is good rust prevention. I filled my new, a while back, frame with it.

For your purpose it should not be leading electricity. Does it?

I wouldn't.

I run connectors clean and dry but use dialectic grease around them to protect them. Many substances that protect also insulate so you want to encapsulate the connection without coming between connection points.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This

+1 ^^^

And that is why I ask the questions!

Thanks guys.

Mark

So around the base of the outside of the male connection?

Mark

Connector seam, and where the wires enter.

10-4, thanks!

Mark

 [thumbsup]

So a thing happened today:


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52698684352_3462a0f242_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ohNwS5)20230219_132831 (https://flic.kr/p/2ohNwS5) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


Parts went ONTO the bike!The process of rebuilding has begun!

Charlie98 stopped by (Dennis to us local folk) and he dropped off his less used rear shock (installed) and his cush drives. Many thanks Dennis! And I have to give a nod of the head to buddy Jason who came by and helped me get the engine and swingarm into place.

I would be up shit creek without everyone here, so many thanks to all of you guys too!

I can keep reassembling lots of things but I'm really going to come to a standstill when I get to the throttle bodies because of that damned cam. Valtermoto was a no go and they didn't offer any advice. That is really my project this week; see what I can find. Waiting for the throttle cam-fairy to drop one off didn't work.  :P

Have a good week boys!

Mark

 [thumbsup]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153584468813

Not the best alternative, but it's one way out.

Will the cam off of any other model work?

Buy that ebay throttle body, ask the seller to only ship the cam (save on shipping). Then have it replicated by a 3D company and sell copies on ebay  ;D

He's only asking $3.95 to ship the whole TB.

I asked the seller to take a clear picture of the cam on the TB he is selling; thanks Painter!

Not knowing much about 3D printing: could I take my cracked cam to a place and have them replicate it without the cracks? I don't know how they create the working files for the printer.

After typing that I decided I'll see if I can find/call a printer that is local.

Stand by.

Mark

They use a cad program to design it, then a 'slicer' program to slice it into layers for printing.

Might be cheaper to buy the TB from Max.

Check out Tinkercad.com and draw it yourself for free. Its a bit tricky getting all the shapes together, but you can create anything you want with a bit of patient.

If you dont know anyone with a 3d printer, anyone with that service will slice it for you and print it, in more or less any material you want.

After you drawed it you could, as someone else said, make a profit by selling the file. Did you search online for an existing cad-file of that piece?

Well boys, not a lot has happened here this week. I have approached a local 3D printer about replicating the throttle cable cam; I'll report back when I get some information. Hopefully early this week.

I am at a bit of a stopping point because of the cable cam; there really isn't a reason to install the throttle bodies until I get that resolved/replaced. As a side note, Painter, I never got a response from Maxsalvage when I requested an image of the cam on the TB he is selling. Anyway, I know you guys know this, but installing the TB's is going to be a PITA! What is the best method: trying to get both to snap into place at the same time or doing one then the other?

So figuring I was at a stopping point there I decided I'd move onto something else. I went to install the crankcase breather tube(?) and it wouldn't fit, then I noticed this, here is a pic of it from the old engine:


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52713085514_c23cffbedf_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oj5kPY)20230226_115816 (https://flic.kr/p/2oj5kPY) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


Straight up and down.

Now the new one:


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52712822926_832c7f46d2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oj3ZLA)20230226_115828 (https://flic.kr/p/2oj3ZLA) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


Whats up with that!? Not only can I not attach my hose, but if I could I am afraid it would interfere with the routing of the exhaust.

Can I swap out the part from the old engine to the new? I removed the bolt from the old engine but the part that is seated on the motor doesn't seem to want to give.

Advice?

Mark

Mark,

I just looked at the cam on my 796... it looks like it's split right where yours did.  It's weird... I can't tell if it was a mold mark, or if it just split right there...

The breather has two O rings as a seal.  By now they would be pretty hard and brittle.  Some persuasion and patience and it should come out.  69K on your breather?  Maybe consider a new one.

When I took mine off the main part of the TB it is cracked in several places on the back.

I'll let you know how I fare with the 3D printer.

Mark

Any advice on the best method for getting the TB’s back into the intake manifolds? One at a time or both at once?

Mark

 Mhanis: If you haven't heard back from the 3D printer shop, see if they have a scanner they could use to quickly and easily [fewer $ ?] do a scan of the old part to create your replacement piece?  The cost of some of these things has gone down dramatically over the past few years. Even a few small shops around my area have purchased the scanners. They make creating a new, duplicate piece really easy.

..... just throwing it out there. Good luck!

Progress is being made!


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52725691518_adbabe5f70_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2okbX9S)1677870582562blob (https://flic.kr/p/2okbX9S) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


Mark

 [thumbsup]

I'll buy one  [thumbsup]

Awesome!

On the throttle cable cam, the printing is complete:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735670770_09fa1599ae_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2om56CW)20230308_173022 (https://flic.kr/p/2om56CW) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734733727_873628a763_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2okZi62)20230308_173034 (https://flic.kr/p/2okZi62) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


It is a good, solid piece and I am happy with it. He used the metal piece from the inside of the original piece. He laid down half the thickness of material, dropped the metal piece into the part and continued building on top of the metal piece until it was complete.

He has made a CAD replica of the metal piece so he could duplicate everything. The cheapest option for someone doing this after me is to send him your metal insert and let him build around it. If anyone really would consider that I'll ask him what the cost would be. If anyone wants to contact him directly it is John at 3 Dallas Printing: http://3dallasprinting.com/

Specifying black from the get go would have been a better idea on my part. He offered to re-make it but I am anxious to get back to work on the thing.

Speaking of re-assembly:

I have the throttle body back in. I found the secret on my own: harsh language proved effective. I used a bit of grease on the manifolds, I got the vertical one in first, MOST of the way. Not fully seated but all the way around the TB, then I got the horizontal one inserted the same amount. Once they were both captured inside the manifolds i fully seated them all the way in.

Do not want to do again.

The crankcase breather valve is a definite problem:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734736142_8418bf14fc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2okZiNE)20230304_144249 (https://flic.kr/p/2okZiNE) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr


For the life of me I cannot figure out why this one is different. Not only is it angled but the diameter of the male end is different (larger). I have ordered a new one and I just have to hope that the new one is identical to my original one and not the same as the one off the new motor. If I remember right when I received the motor the previous owner had replaced the hose with a filter, but I don't know why he'd have changed the breather valve itself. And he also must have had an after market exhaust because there is no way the OEM exhaust will fit with that breather valve in place.

My goal was to have this done before MotoGp in Mid-April and I am afraid I am not going to make it. Waiting on parts has eaten a LOT of time. First the throttle cam, now the breather and I am still waiting on chain/sprockets etc.....

That is all for now.

Mark

Battery Tender lead:

I have been using my lead for years to run my heated gear, but I cannot run it full on for fear of breaking the fuse. That happened once and on these Monsters that fuse is buried DEEP in the bike; no getting to that fuse on the side of the road.

Anywhoo, I bought a second lead for the sole purpose of running my gear. It has a 7.5A fuse it in. Do you see any problem with me putting in a higher amp fuse to not worry about blowing it?

If yes; what amps do you guys recommend?

Mark

As long as the wire gauge is sufficient to handle 7.5 amps, and assuming you're going direct to the battery, go for it.

Looks like your new breather is SBK one:
https://www.gothamcycles.com/848-1098-11981346079198/Ducati-Oil-Crankcase-Breather-Valve-848-11981346662046.html

Swap to the old engine  one?

Great work on the throttle cam  [thumbsup]

Hey
Most of those 7.5 amp leads are 18g for battery tender currents. Check the wire gauge supplied.
For 10 amp 16g is recommended and14g for 15amp.
Hope that helps


Amperage Capacities for Standard Non-Metallic (NM) Cable
16-gauge wire   13 amps
14-gauge wire   15 amps
12-gauge wire   20 amps
10-gauge wire   30 amps

That will work for short runs, but DC requires larger wire size as the run length increases.

Mark, I have 12ga stranded wire... if you want, I can try to build you a wiring lead that will handle more current.  I'd need the plug, obviously, and the length of run you need.  I can also put a fuse holder where you can get to it...   [thumbsup]

make the beast with two backsin' A dudes!!!!!!


(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/52771333031_c428e86007_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2opdSMv)20230325_165702 (https://flic.kr/p/2opdSMv) by Mark Hanis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190469199@N06/), on Flickr



You caught a brief glimpse of all 'round good guy Dennis (Charlie 98) at the end, SHE LIVES!!!

If you click the image It'll take you to a quick video.

A VERY excited.....

Mark!!!

 ;D [clap]

 [thumbsup]

No clanging, no banging, no leaking... what's not to like!!!   [beer]

I am back on the road! The dealership went through it and correctly routed some wiring, buttoned it up and I took it for a spin last evening. I put it through the paces for about 80 miles and all seems well!

I couldn't be happier, thanks to everyone here for the help!  [beer]

Off to MotoGp this weekend!

Mark

Good deal, Mark!  I'm glad it lives!!!   [beer]

Great news. Enjoy the Moto GP.

 [thumbsup]

 [thumbsup]

So I've put most of 1,000 miles on it since the resurrection and it is just fine! the only difference I can feel is in the gearbox, this one feels a bit more crisp. Otherwise I would be any the wiser if I didn't know.

Quick followup question; I have a guy that is possibly interested in buying my old motor, with full knowledge of it's issues: what is a ballpark figure of that it is worth? $200, $500, $50? Any input there?

Or just be happy someone is willing to take it out of my garage?

Mark

Mark...

What's he going to do with the old motor?  Part it, fix it, polish it and put it in the entryway?

BTW... you will need to change your signature... your 1100 miles are, again, climbing!   [clap]

Good call on the signature, I forgot about that!'

He is a motorcycle mechanic, dunno what his plans are.

Mark

It's worth half of what it would sell for repaired. Couldn't find a comparable on ebay.

That give me an idea, thanks Painter!

Mark

Guessing (!!!) 2,500 - 3,000 (-3,5000) from a well known Ducati specilist shop. Completely overhauled, blueprinted. If he's not, 500-1,000 less. Maybe. I'm just thinking out loud. He should calculate 15-20 hours labour. Parts. He will only make a profit if he gets it for less than 1,000. Maybe/probably....

FTR...I wasn't thinking of him completely overhauling, blueprinting, or porting. In it's current condition it isn't worth half of that number.

I was thinking he'd fix the sprag, shim the trans shaft, maybe rings, and flip it.

This is more in line with what I was thinking too. I'll let ya's know if we come to an agreement and what his thoughts are.

Oh, and FTR; I had to Google what "FTR" stood for..........

Mark

;D

You own an FTR?  I had an FTR1000, too... oh, wait.   Nevermind.

I'm thinking $500 if he's going to spin it and flip it, but if he's an enthusiast, I'd be willing to work with him on it.