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Author Topic: Help you guys!!  (Read 1647 times)
SaltLick
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« on: November 22, 2008, 07:31:56 PM »

I need help before tomarrow morning, im going on a ride with a buddy first thing and i need to figure out this chain problem, here goes:

Will someone please explain to me how to loosen up the chain?

I took my MC to the local shop to get the chain tightened a few days ago.  He tightened the chain, but He tightened up the Axle nuts and adjuster screws with a regular wrench. Tonight i took out my torque wrench to get it up to spec in case it wasnt (how could it be when he just used a wrench?) So i did the axle nuts right but I tightened the adjuster screws too tight, set the torque wrench for 10lbs instead of 5 like it says in the manual by mistake. Now the chain is too tight. I should have just left it alone. And the adjuster marks on the swing arm are not ligned up. One is at 3 marks and one is at 4. They were both at 4 before i messed with it.

I am confused. By what i have read, i didnt think tightening the adjuster screws once the axle nut is tight would do anything to the chain. I thought it would just tighten down the adjuster screws. This whole chain adjusting thing is pissing me off. It seems like it should be easy.

Why do the instructions i have both in the manual and online say to tighten the adjuster screws once the axle nuts are tight if it adjusts the chain tension?

Can someone please just give me dummie instructions at this point how to loosen up the chain and get it right?

Im talking dummie like

A) Loosen Axle nuts (both sides or just one side?)

B) Loosen up adjuster nuts (on both sides? and how loose a couple of turns one turn?)

That kind of instructions, oh yeah and please follow it up with instructions on tightening those adjuster nuts after the axle nuts are tightened. Do we have to tighten the adjuster nuts after the axle nuts are tightened? If so, how much....and why did it tighten the chain?  i need a drink....


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Tailgunner
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« Reply #1 on: November 22, 2008, 09:32:13 PM »

Dave man, settle down  laughingdp

Those marker things are pretty much floating there, no real indicator of where your wheel is at, for me they are anyway.

Get a tape measure or long straight thing and eyeball the straightness of the wheel then check it on both sides with the thingy. Juleale is good right now.

Just tighten things when all looks straight enough. Then snug up those adjuster bolts w/o losing the straight alignment. Get yourself some slack as the book indicates. Do not ride with overly tight chain though.

Have Erich check out your nuts on Tuesday

Happy  [moto]
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JohnnyDucati
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« Reply #2 on: November 22, 2008, 09:34:15 PM »

I need help before tomarrow morning, im going on a ride with a buddy first thing and i need to figure out this chain problem, here goes:

Will someone please explain to me how to loosen up the chain?

I took my MC to the local shop to get the chain tightened a few days ago.  He tightened the chain, but He tightened up the Axle nuts and adjuster screws with a regular wrench. Tonight i took out my torque wrench to get it up to spec in case it wasnt (how could it be when he just used a wrench?) So i did the axle nuts right but I tightened the adjuster screws too tight, set the torque wrench for 10lbs instead of 5 like it says in the manual by mistake. Now the chain is too tight. I should have just left it alone. And the adjuster marks on the swing arm are not ligned up. One is at 3 marks and one is at 4. They were both at 4 before i messed with it.

I am confused. By what i have read, i didnt think tightening the adjuster screws once the axle nut is tight would do anything to the chain. I thought it would just tighten down the adjuster screws. This whole chain adjusting thing is pissing me off. It seems like it should be easy.

. . .


Salty -

Once the axle nut is tight, there is no necessity to "tighten" the adjuster screws.  That was the error you made.  They are meant to just sort of "float" where they are.

You are OK to torque the axle nut into place with your torque wrench - that's fine.  If you mess with the adjusters once the axle nut is tight, they will move your chain out of adjustment!  So, just leave the adjuster nuts alone once you've got your chain tension correct.

All you have to do is go through the process again:  loosen the axle nut a little bit, then set your chain tension as desired with the adjuster nuts.  Then torque your axle nut down with your torque wrench to the proper spec.  BTW, at the beginning when you loosen your axle nut, loosen it so that it is still gripping a fair bit - you don't want it floppy loose.

You might have to do it a couple times to get it right.  Sometimes that last torque down on the axle nut moves the assembly out of whack - it's better to sneak up on it.

Call me if you want.  I'll talk you through it.

regards,

John

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SaltLick
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« Reply #3 on: November 22, 2008, 10:34:53 PM »

Salty -

Once the axle nut is tight, there is no necessity to "tighten" the adjuster screws.  That was the error you made.  They are meant to just sort of "float" where they are.

You are OK to torque the axle nut into place with your torque wrench - that's fine.  If you mess with the adjusters once the axle nut is tight, they will move your chain out of adjustment!  So, just leave the adjuster nuts alone once you've got your chain tension correct.

All you have to do is go through the process again:  loosen the axle nut a little bit, then set your chain tension as desired with the adjuster nuts.  Then torque your axle nut down with your torque wrench to the proper spec.  BTW, at the beginning when you loosen your axle nut, loosen it so that it is still gripping a fair bit - you don't want it floppy loose.

You might have to do it a couple times to get it right.  Sometimes that last torque down on the axle nut moves the assembly out of whack - it's better to sneak up on it.

Call me if you want.  I'll talk you through it.

regards,

John



there lies the problem.  I knew that it tightened the chain when i tightened the adjuster bolts even though the axle nuts were tight.  So why the hell does the manual and every other online do it yourself adjust chain thing say to be sure and tighten the adjuster bolts once the axle nut is torqued back down?  Sigh. I dont care why. I am with you Johnny make the beast with two backs those adjuster bolts. I will just redo this whole thing and once the axle nuts are tight i will leave the adjuster bolts alone.
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SaltLick
Guest
« Reply #4 on: November 22, 2008, 10:37:14 PM »

Dave man, settle down  laughingdp

Those marker things are pretty much floating there, no real indicator of where your wheel is at, for me they are anyway.

Get a tape measure or long straight thing and eyeball the straightness of the wheel then check it on both sides with the thingy. Juleale is good right now.

Just tighten things when all looks straight enough. Then snug up those adjuster bolts w/o losing the straight alignment. Get yourself some slack as the book indicates. Do not ride with overly tight chain though.

Have Erich check out your nuts on Tuesday

Happy  [moto]

Yo billy! long time no see man! 

Good to hear from ya. Thanks for the advise, yeah i know im a spaz when my bike aint right. ha ha  laughingdp
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krolik
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Yeah, that's me. So what.


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« Reply #5 on: November 23, 2008, 09:14:20 AM »

Since the torque specs for the adjuster bolt lock nuts are pretty small, I think its so the the adjuster nuts don't vibrate off the adjuster bolt.  The first time I adjusted the chain to the owner's manual specs, it was all make the beast with two backsed up.  Man, was that a pisser of an afternoon. bang head  I must have readjusted the whole thing 3-4 times.  I finally went to the shop manual and guess what?  The torque specs for everything involved with the chain adjustment were different. Shocked  The specs in the shop manual for the adjuster nut were half of what the specs were in the owners manual. Angry  Once I did it with the shop manual specs, everything worked out fine.  Next time you see me, ask me about my homemade rear wheel alignment tool. waytogo
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'03 M800 "not so dark" Dark, Remus high pipes, Cycle Cat clipons & frame sliders, CRG lanesplitter mirrors, Sargent seat, tail chop, Nichols flywheel, modified & powdercoated rearsets, 15/44 gearing, 520 chain & sprockets, TPO Beast pod filters, Power Comander III. 72.95 Rear Wheel HP & 54.29 ft-lbs!

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