tapered steering head bearings install?

[BK_856er]

The tapered steering head bearings (speedymoto) look like a good idea.

What's the scoop on the installation?  I'm good with the forks/triples/special top nut, and I understand that a drift or a bicycle headset race remover can be used to knock out the old races on the head tube, but I'm not so clear on what's needed to properly install the new races.  I have the factory manual and it describes several special tools and heating steps.  Anyone BTDT?  Can I fab up a simple threaded rod to press the races into the (heated) head tube?

BK

[Norm]

If you put them in the freezer for a coulpe of hours, you should be able to tap them in with a hammer & a piece of wood. If you have some bicycle tools, you can also use the same head press you would use on a bicycle. That's what I use.

Norm

[BK_856er]

If you put them in the freezer for a coulpe of hours, you should be able to tap them in with a hammer & a piece of wood. If you have some bicycle tools, you can also use the same head press you would use on a bicycle. That's what I use.

Norm

I didn't think about cooling instead of heating.  I have free access to dry ice, which might make the task even easier.  But I've always wanted to own a head press, so maybe this is a good excuse - nice to know the bicycle ones will do the trick.  Thanks for the info!

BK

[speedevil]

If you put them in the freezer for a coulpe of hours, you should be able to tap them in with a hammer & a piece of wood.

+1

I replaced the steering stem ball bearings in my goldwing with tapered rollers and leaving the races in the freezer overnight allowed them to almost drop in (just a couple of light taps needed).  Be careful when seating the races, though.  They can "rebound" and when the sound changes you think they're seated but they've actually bounced out a few thousandths.  They'll seem fine initially and then loosen up as the races seat themselves.

[REDUC]

I also cooled my races in the freezer, and used a 10 inch long, 5/8" bolt with 3/16" thick washers of varying diameters, along with the stock races to press the tapered races into the tubes.  A block of wood will only get you flush with the frame.  Using the stock races, I was able to get the new ones recessed the 1/8" or so into the tubes where they need to go.

[Cider]

The freezer thing works, and some heat on the frame helps.  I bought some cheap metric "truck sockets" from Harbor Freight to drive them in.