Q on tuning process and likely results - FatDuc o2 manipulator fitted...

[GraGra]

My bike - a EURO Spec 2006 S2R1K, recently had heads, casings etc removed for clean and paint, and also the regular 20,000Km service - valves etc.

Before this work was done, the bike was running nice with the o2 sensor unplugged, euro ECU, Arrow system, open airbox and K&N filter.

Then I installed the o2 manipulator, set to full rich - and the smoothness at sub 4000RPM, particularly in 1st, 2nd and top gears seemed to improve further.

Now the bike is back from the work, and seems to be running a bit rougher down low than it was before.

The original "tune" was done with the sensor unplugged - and the Euro/stock ECU at "default/dumb" setting.

When i installed the o2 manip, there was no further work/tuning done after the install - bike seemed to run great.

Now, the technicians seem to have tuned the bike post service (would this even be necessary with the work i had done???) with the o2 sensor - and the Fatduc manipulator, plugged in.

Could this be the reason the bike seems to run different, or shouldn't it matter?
Hence my question about the tuning process - what do we do first, and is there anythiig I can check for myself? Is/was a retune necessary after removing heads, adjusting valves etc etc...?

Will adjustments made with the sensor and manipulator plugged in result in a different tune than if the adjustments were made without the manipulator and sensor plugged in?

I did ask the mechanic about this, and he said that as long as the settings at idle are correct - using I presume the exhaust gas sniffer, then the performance throughout the range should be the best it can be.

But doesn't the fatduc manipulator specifically address issues in the closed loop range - which is mostly below 4000RPM, and hence will affect the settings/readings at idle??

I'm starting to draw a (premature) conclusion here that if the tune was done with the o2 sensor and manipulator plugged in - and it was set at full rich settings, then the subsequent adjustments to the settings during the tuning process would have "corrected out" the rich condition that the manipulator serves to provide - and therefore made the bike leaner and feel more edgey/rough at low RPM than it otherwise would have been should the tune be done without the sensor and manipulator plugged in and active. ( this all my speculation and I could be completely wrong).


Best regards,

G.

[yotogi]

My bike US Spec 2006 S2R1K, aftermarket midpipe, cored cans, FatDuc and some time spent sorting out closed-loop badness on my bike.

I assume the O2 Manipulator (FatDuc?) was installed WITH the O2 sensor? Pretty sure it would do nothing if the sensor was still unplugged.

ECU does some "learning" but it is pretty minor and should happen pretty quick (5 miles or so in my experience). In terms of "tuning" a stock ECU (Euro or US) there is very little you can do. You can effect just a little A/F as I understand it.

I would get the bike back to stock (O2 sensor in, Manipulator off) and take it back and have the dealer check the fueling. My guess is you are going to be VERY lean due to the removal of the O2 manipulator. Have them get that sorted for you and then put the O2 manipulator back on. Explain what happened and hopefully it won't cost you much.

As I understand these bikes, your logic is sound and would explain your symptoms.

Good luck and post your results!

[GraGra]

Yes - the O2 sensor and fatduc all installed - but like I said - after the latest "tune" the dealer mech said that he did it with everything plugged in already - which kinda defeats the purpose of having the FatDuc on there anyway.

This is the theory I'm going on, but looking for some solid validation.

Thanks for your input. It's very frustrating that whenever i get my bike in to this place, it always comes back worse than before....unfortunately it's the only dealer.

[yotogi]

IMO if you explained what was on the bike, they should have known better than to adjust the A/F mixture with the FatDuc on...

[GraGra]

I hear ya - but they also shoulda know better than to torque the make the beast with two backs out of my Arrow exhaust header flange collars - so they bent them to all make the beast with two backs and to the point where one is almost touching the Brian Wing exhaust port - and also shoulda known better than to install the oil drain plug without a crush washer - I nearly had to use a breaker bar to release it - and this was when it was warm already - and not to mention tightening the belt cover bolts so make the beast with two backsing tight that it ended up stripping the front lower hole.

Oh - and to be careful so as to not spill brake fluid on the newly painted left hand engine cover...(which was actually able top be re-painted - unlike the hamfistedness described above).

Here endeth the rant...

[yotogi]

No more work for that shop... 

[GraGra]

+11ty @#$%^ gazillion....