Very soft rear brake

Started by jasaretta, September 28, 2009, 09:35:26 PM

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jasaretta

Being the least mechanically minded here - I was wondering what could cause this. Rear brake has just gone very soft. Still works but I need to push much further. Fluid levels are ok.

Any ideas?

tia

James
This place feels nice. Black S4RS, CRG Barend mirrors, vented clutch cover, gold clutch plate, gold pazzo racing levers, full 50m termi system, little carbon extras....oh yeah ...almost forgot....ban corporate coffee!

Speeddog

Most likely, you need to bleed the system.

Alternatively, it's possible your master cylinder has gone bad.
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Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~

jasaretta

Quote from: Speeddog on September 28, 2009, 09:40:53 PM
Most likely, you need to bleed the system.

Alternatively, it's possible your master cylinder has gone bad.

Thanks - looks like a visit to the man that knows more than me ;)
This place feels nice. Black S4RS, CRG Barend mirrors, vented clutch cover, gold clutch plate, gold pazzo racing levers, full 50m termi system, little carbon extras....oh yeah ...almost forgot....ban corporate coffee!

Christian

+1 on bleeding.

The S4RS has a rear brake caliper that is mounted upside-down and therefore, much like the 748/9XX bikes, it can be quite difficult to bleed properly. You may have heard people joke of the uselessness of the rear brake on Ducati bikes, and this is possibly the origin of the joke.

Bled properly it should be fine, but it may require occasional bleeding in the future to maintain the feel you're looking for.

rockaduc

I have to bleed the rear brake on my s2r 2x/yr on average.
If you can see Chuck Norris, he can see you.  If you can't see Chuck Norris, you may be only seconds away from death.

hypurone

It is NOT normal to have to bleed a hydraulic system to remove air unless there is a defective component, period. If you have to bleed it (for air or an internal by-pass) there is something defective. In 20 years of certified automotive tech work, there was ALWAYS a bad component when there was air in the system or excessive travel (internal by-pass failure of the master or proportioning valve etc)

It IS normal to flush the system to improve the fluid quality and thereby firming up the pedal/lever. But this is usually to improve the feel, not eliminate the amount of travel it sounds like you are experiencing.

I have had my RS for a little over 2 years now and the ONLY time I needed to bleed it was when I installed the Sato's (which use a pressure switch for the brake light).

Let us know what your tech finds....
'07 S4RS "Testatretta" (In the FASTER color)
I'm not totally useless, I can be used as a bad example!

rockaduc

Hmmmm. Maybe I should check my MC.
If you can see Chuck Norris, he can see you.  If you can't see Chuck Norris, you may be only seconds away from death.

hypurone

Quote from: rockaduc on September 29, 2009, 11:11:27 AM
Hmmmm. Maybe I should check my MC.

I have also seen issues with the calipers where they bleed air in thru the piston seals or joint o-rings. You "usually" see signs of fluid seepage on the caliper side of things tho if those seals are bad but you could be the oddball too. Well, your bike I mean...  [laugh]
'07 S4RS "Testatretta" (In the FASTER color)
I'm not totally useless, I can be used as a bad example!

Speeddog

I've seen a couple of the black master cylinders go bad.

I've seen quite a few of the S*R bikes with flabby rear brakes, and they respond to a thorough bleed.
Not sure why they seem to be more prone to issues.  :-\
- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~

madalf71

Hi All.
S*R, make life less stressful,
Remove rear caliper when you bleed it,
And yes does come off without removing rear wheel.
Cheers.
Madalf

RUFKM

#10
Diagnostics on any brake issues should start with cleaning. Don't judge, classify or categorize until they're clean. Use a Scotch Brite pad on the rotors like you mean it. I've seen threads on warped rotors and soft rears before. All of the symptoms described were ones I had but eliminated by simple cleaning. Do it everytime you wash the bike
(sorry MrIncredible there is some benefit to clean).