Safetywire front caliper bolts?

[cduarte]

How about a tapered head bolt?

those would be your best bet, and I've seen them on ebay. drill them and wire them together and you're good to go.

[wantingaduc]

Good luck getting the holes to align the next time you work on the front end.

Well considering that you shouldn't be pulling calipers that often, even on a racebike. It shouldn't be a  problem.

But, if you do pull the bolts and then have to rewire them you could do the same thing you would normally. Rethread the bolt, mark the point once it's torqued and remove and drill it. Or even easier, redrill it in place using the hole in the fork bracket as a pilot.

jimi

[DarkStaR]

Good luck getting the holes to align the next time you work on the front end.

Well considering that you shouldn't be pulling calipers that often, even on a racebike. It shouldn't be a  problem.

But, if you do pull the bolts and then have to rewire them you could do the same thing you would normally. Rethread the bolt, mark the point once it's torqued and remove and drill it. Or even easier, redrill it in place using the hole in the fork bracket as a pilot.

jimi

You'd probably have to remove the calipers a lot more often on a race bike (e.g. when replacing the tires).

If this method was used, I agree that "redrill it in place using the hole in the fork bracket as a pilot" would be the way to go, but still a pain in the ass (e.g. when at a track).

[wantingaduc]

You'd probably have to remove the calipers a lot more often on a race bike (e.g. when replacing the tires).

On a monster you shouldn't have to remove the calipers to do tires.
The wheel will come out with the calipers in place and once you spread the pads back, so long as you don't grab the brake lever, the wheel with the rotors in place should slide right back.

jimi

[ducpainter]

You'd probably have to remove the calipers a lot more often on a race bike (e.g. when replacing the tires).

On a monster you shouldn't have to remove the calipers to do tires.
The wheel will come out with the calipers in place and once you spread the pads back, so long as you don't grab the brake lever, the wheel with the rotors in place should slide right back.

jimi

I doubt it.

Have you tried that?

Let me know how it works out.

[battlecry]

[Spidey]

On a monster you shouldn't have to remove the calipers to do tires.
The wheel will come out with the calipers in place and once you spread the pads back, so long as you don't grab the brake lever, the wheel with the rotors in place should slide right back.

You don't *have* to remove the calipers to change the front wheel, but trying to get it back on it a SERIOUS pregnant dog.  The rotors almost never just slide right back.  In fact, you'll likely need two people to get it done--one on each caliper--and maybe another to lift/position to the wheel into place.  I've done it (a caliper bolt was stripped and I was in a rush between races).  It sucks.   

In the end, it's much, much easier just to take off the calipers. 

[wantingaduc]

Yeah I've done it,
on my Monster and every other dual disc bike Ive ever owned.

Set the pads all the way back just before putting the wheel on.
Leave the brake reservoir cap off so the fluid doesn't force back in.
Make sure you don't TOUCH the brake lever.
Steady the wheel between your thighs sitting in front of the bike.
Lift, settle into place, then slide the axle home a few inches.
Now get up slip the axle in, tighten it all up and go ride.

YES, it's easier with the calipers off, but I still do it with them on.

jimi

[DarkStaR]

Impossible on my bike.

The inboard sides of my 4 pot calipers are only about 1 3/4" inch apart (where the wheel spokes pass between them).

No way am I getting a 3.5" wheel (+tire) between a 1 3/4" space!!!

Please enlighten me on how that's possible!?!?