Need help from a clutch Guru

Started by lilmonster, March 07, 2010, 05:46:25 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

lilmonster

Need to replace clutch, got 30,000 miles out of stock clutch. I already got new OEM basket from local dealer, had in stock. I found 2 Surflex clutch plate kits, one says it is sintered and other does not. The one not sintered says it is for slipper clutch but can be used stock replacement. What I want to know is the stock clutch sintered? Are the stock plates steel or aluminum? I don't need fancy, just want it work and last about as long as stock. I pretty much do not want Barnett from what I've read here. What's the difference in these clutches? Bike is 2008 S2R1000.

http://www.motowheels.com/italian/myproducts.cfm?parentcategoryid=1652%7CMonster%20Clutch&productID=6058&showDetail=1&categoryID=1678|Monster%20Clutch%20Plates&vendoridtodisplay=0&filterFor=&collection=168%7CEuropean%20Motorcycle%20Parts



http://www.motowheels.com/italian/myproducts.cfm?parentcategoryid=1652%7CMonster%20Clutch&productID=4731&showDetail=1&categoryID=1678|Monster%20Clutch%20Plates&vendoridtodisplay=0&filterFor=&collection=168%7CEuropean%20Motorcycle%20Parts

He Man

OEM is the way.

Sintered is just a process used to make the friction material. I do not recommend any of those 2 for street bike replacement. They will wear out much quicker than OEM. In fact youd be dissapointed if you looked at how much friction material you get from an STM compared to OEM.

Also, if you could id return that basket. Im sure you got raped by the dealer on that already.... you can buy them for dirt cheap on ebay, and if you spent a pretty dime, you could get a light weight one. I have 2 siting on myself right now. A barnet and a stocker.

ducpainter

The sintered plates were originally intended as a race item and wouldn't be the best choice for a street bike in a city application. If you live in an area where you can ride all day and only stop a few times they'd be great.

No FHE with the surflex plates, but the other 'flavor' should be fine. I'd ask motowheels what kind of life you can expect from them compared to OEM.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



lilmonster

The basket was $260 not too bad and was in stock so I got it. Like I said 30,000 miles is pretty good so I was going to go back with that. They quoted me about  $270 for stock plates. I don't know if that includes the metal bands though. I have to check that out and need to check thickness of mine.

He Man

Quote from: lilmonster on March 08, 2010, 12:01:24 PM
The basket was $260 not too bad and was in stock so I got it. Like I said 30,000 miles is pretty good so I was going to go back with that. They quoted me about  $270 for stock plates. I don't know if that includes the metal bands though. I have to check that out and need to check thickness of mine.

$270 OEM clutch packs include the metal plates and friction plates. Its the pack i recommend. Barnett Red Clutch packs melt in the rain (litterally). I dont like them, they lasted 2,000 miles or so before they started giving me problems.


heres a pic i snapped today of the Surflex /MW Clutch Plate Kit you posted. Its got 2000 miles on it and is used on a Ducabike Slipper Clutch. weekend riding only on a 2004 749S. You can see that you dont get that much friction material to begin with. And you can really tell that only the middle section ever gets used. I dont think these would last as long as the OEM ones.




heres a close up view of the friciton material.
http://kuixihe.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=385


lilmonster

Thanks for that. I've had good service from the OEM so that's what I'm going with.