Pod Filters and FCR41s...noise?

[tankerbutt]

((threadjack)) does anybody know if I can get FCR flatslides for my '01 m600, and would it be worth it?  I poked around the FCR website and only found them for the 750 and 900.  I'm sure it would be better to get a 900 but I'm curious. ((end threadjack))

[greenmonster]

39 mm FCR works good on an 600.

but 52 slow jets instead of 60

What effect did that have on starting & idle?

[koko64]

39 mm FCR works good on an 600.


What effect did that have on starting & idle?

G'day GM

The as delivered 60 slow jets were fouling plugs. The bike would start with no accelerator pump squirts on a cold morning. That was great, but once warmed up it was like I was riding around with the choke on. Now with 52s I need three squirts on cold mornings and one squirt when the weather is warm. In a heatwave I may not need the accelerator pump at all. The bike idles so much better.

The 52 slow jets are still slightly on the rich side for my bike, which helps for cold starts. I have the IMS set one turn out and it could go in another 1/2 turn, but again I am allowing for cold mornings. I could run 50s and even 48s have been suggested, but Melbourne is known for having all four seasons in a day!

I follow Chris Kelly's starting tips in his FCR supplement with the 52s and it starts fine.

I have noticed that standard slow jetting on some Japanese grey import bikes is also very rich. People have mentioned this to me in Formula 400 circles about different bikes. My 400 racer has the smallest slow jets available (stock) and they are very rich.
The stock CV carb slow jets allow Monsters to run ok in the cold (they still ice up sometimes) but are too rich when it's hot and give bad economy. I have tried 35 slow jets in stock CV carbs and the bike ran great when warm and in warmer weather but was a pig in the winter. 

It has been suggested to me that differences in fuel in different countries may explain this. I can't verify this however.
You could try smaller slow jets but I'm not confident that the tuning tips will apply well across continents. But if the jets are cheap enough why not? I have had to run high needle positions and big main jets however so I don't understand it myself. Chris ships them with the big slow jets for a reason, that's for sure. I don't know if my bike would start in the middle of a Scandinavian or North American winter!

Cheers

[koko64]

((threadjack)) does anybody know if I can get FCR flatslides for my '01 m600, and would it be worth it?  I poked around the FCR website and only found them for the 750 and 900.  I'm sure it would be better to get a 900 but I'm curious. ((end threadjack))

I would spend the grand on selling the 600, getting a 900 and then another grand to put 39s or 41s on it. Or sell the 600 and get a DS1000 or find a DS motor for your 600 and put 41s on it.

[brad black]

they'd be overkill on a 600.  the 600 has very small valves and ports, so you need to fix that before it'll make power.

[greenmonster]

G'day GM

The as delivered 60 slow jets were fouling plugs. The bike would start with no accelerator pump squirts on a cold morning. That was great, but once warmed up it was like I was riding around with the choke on. Now with 52s I need three squirts on cold mornings and one squirt when the weather is warm. In a heatwave I may not need the accelerator pump at all. The bike idles so much better.

The 52 slow jets are still slightly on the rich side for my bike, which helps for cold starts. I have the IMS set one turn out and it could go in another 1/2 turn, but again I am allowing for cold mornings. I could run 50s and even 48s have been suggested, but Melbourne is known for having all four seasons in a day!

I follow Chris Kelly's starting tips in his FCR supplement with the 52s and it starts fine.

I have noticed that standard slow jetting on some Japanese grey import bikes is also very rich. People have mentioned this to me in Formula 400 circles about different bikes. My 400 racer has the smallest slow jets available (stock) and they are very rich.
The stock CV carb slow jets allow Monsters to run ok in the cold (they still ice up sometimes) but are too rich when it's hot and give bad economy. I have tried 35 slow jets in stock CV carbs and the bike ran great when warm and in warmer weather but was a pig in the winter.  

It has been suggested to me that differences in fuel in different countries may explain this. I can't verify this however.
You could try smaller slow jets but I'm not confident that the tuning tips will apply well across continents. But if the jets are cheap enough why not? I have had to run high needle positions and big main jets however so I don't understand it myself. Chris ships them with the big slow jets for a reason, that's for sure. I don't know if my bike would start in the middle of a Scandinavian or North American winter!

Cheers

Thx, koko, guess I`ll be trying some smaller slow jets as I park indoors & seldom take the Monster out unless around +20 C!  
Steadier Idle & nonfueled plugs is what I want to achieve.

[TreyRiser]

You guys are really supplying some great information about carbs...to be honest i really didnt know much about how the carbs really work just have heard great things about FCRs and i had a $1000 bucks that was burning a hole in my pocket so i went for it.... The install was pretty straight forward and ever since my cheeks have been hurting from all the grinnin i've been doing

about the gas mileage...

i went from about 34 MPG average-ish with the Mikunis to just about 30mpg on my first tank with the FCRs, but i suspect this will change as soon as i get done rippin on it every where I go...I do indeed have to twist the throttle less to get more acceleration than before but i find my self twisting the throttle less a lot more often I will try and be a little nicer to it and see what kind of mileage I get then

The you tube post sounded like it was my bike too...so that makes me feel great thanks for that, the chirping actually sounds pretty neet at 7000-8000 RPMs...has a bit of a jet engine mechanical whoosh to it now...

As far as starting and idle go the bike seems to start about the same...except without the choke you gotta splash a little gas with a twist of the throttle to get her to catch...then let it idle for about 2-3 min and then its pretty much ready to go...and setting the idle is really easy becuase the FCRs have an idle adjust knob that you can position so it can be reached on the go at a stop light so thats nice...

I do have one question though for anyone who thinks they might have an answer...When i release the throttle after i come to a stop my engine seems to want to hang at about 2000 RPMs for a couplle seconds before it falls down to the set 1200 rpms? I've messed twith the idle adjust a bit but it only changes how far it falls to idle...thanks for all the info

[junior varsity]

when i had that issue it was sync related. that was with mikunis.

[koko64]

You guys are really supplying some great information about carbs...to be honest i really didnt know much about how the carbs really work just have heard great things about FCRs and i had a $1000 bucks that was burning a hole in my pocket so i went for it.... The install was pretty straight forward and ever since my cheeks have been hurting from all the grinnin i've been doing

about the gas mileage...

i went from about 34 MPG average-ish with the Mikunis to just about 30mpg on my first tank with the FCRs, but i suspect this will change as soon as i get done rippin on it every where I go...I do indeed have to twist the throttle less to get more acceleration than before but i find my self twisting the throttle less a lot more often I will try and be a little nicer to it and see what kind of mileage I get then

The you tube post sounded like it was my bike too...so that makes me feel great thanks for that, the chirping actually sounds pretty neet at 7000-8000 RPMs...has a bit of a jet engine mechanical whoosh to it now...

As far as starting and idle go the bike seems to start about the same...except without the choke you gotta splash a little gas with a twist of the throttle to get her to catch...then let it idle for about 2-3 min and then its pretty much ready to go...and setting the idle is really easy becuase the FCRs have an idle adjust knob that you can position so it can be reached on the go at a stop light so thats nice...

I do have one question though for anyone who thinks they might have an answer...When i release the throttle after i come to a stop my engine seems to want to hang at about 2000 RPMs for a couplle seconds before it falls down to the set 1200 rpms? I've messed twith the idle adjust a bit but it only changes how far it falls to idle...thanks for all the info

That hanging up on idle can be a symptom of too lean an idle mixture.
Try turning out your idle mixture screws 1/2 a turn out (richer) and see if that sorts it out.

[junior varsity]

heh heh heh































ordered some FCR 41's...

[koko64]

heh heh heh































ordered some FCR 41's...

AM
I'm celebrating way over here!

[TreyRiser]

a m
You did the right thing brother... you won't be disappointed!!! [moto]

[junior varsity]

Thanks guys - I'm going to post some setup questions in a new thread (makes future searching easier, I say)

[tankerbutt]

they'd be overkill on a 600.  the 600 has very small valves and ports, so you need to fix that before it'll make power.

I would spend the grand on selling the 600, getting a 900 and then another grand to put 39s or 41s on it. Or sell the 600 and get a DS1000 or find a DS motor for your 600 and put 41s on it.

Thanks fellas, that's pretty much what I figured, but it didn't hurt to ask.