Get Rid of Your Emmisions Canister! Now with Pics!

Started by JoDuc, May 17, 2008, 02:24:56 PM

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CDawg

Quote from: dlowenst on June 02, 2008, 10:42:43 AM
the original "T" fitting could be serving as an air balancer between the two intakes.  If so, we should probably be connecting the two nipples directly to each other with some of the reclaimed hose, in order to maintain this balance.  Does this make sense?

Does it make sense?  Yes, but if you look at the specs/parts diagrams for the euro versions, they are do not have a tubing to "balance intake air pressure."  That's why I took everything off (nipples and all).

David Lowenstein

OK, that's certainly a good basis for thinking that they don't need to be connected.  In the Euro version, are the nipples installed but plugged? If no, what does the configuration look like?

Quote from: CDawg on June 02, 2008, 11:07:49 AM
Does it make sense?  Yes, but if you look at the specs/parts diagrams for the euro versions, they are do not have a tubing to "balance intake air pressure."  That's why I took everything off (nipples and all).
Dave in DC: 67 Jaguar E-Type OTS S1/71 Ford F-100 Styleside/79 Triumph T140E Bonneville/15 BMW R1200GS/13 KTM 300 XC-W/04 Yamaha TT-R250/04 & 05 Honda CRF 250X/Keeping parts guys in business nationwide

CDawg

#32
Quote from: dlowenst on June 02, 2008, 04:48:26 PM
OK, that's certainly a good basis for thinking that they don't need to be connected.  In the Euro version, are the nipples installed but plugged? If no, what does the configuration look like?

The part number for the intake manifold is the same, but Drawing 42 (canister) does not exist in the EU version.  Remove everything and plug with M5(?) screw is my recommendation.  Use make sure you use some medium loctite to seal it properly and it will run fine.

mitt


dlearl476

Quote from: herm on May 18, 2008, 12:13:24 PM
if you didn't already, i would recommend sealing the bolts in place with some high temp silicone (RV silicone works great)
otherwise you risk air getting around the bolt, or the bolt working itself free, either of which could lead to a lean running condition
[thumbsup]

Or a new crush washer.

Hank025

Ah, does anybody have any tips for removing the hoses from the bleeder nozzles? Mine are not coming off...
2007 S2R 1000

scott_araujo

On the manifolds?

If there's a clamp, remove it entierly or slide it up the hose away from the end.  Sometimes the hoses 'glue' themselves in place just by being there so long.  Grab the hose with pliers and and twist to free it, it should start rotating relative to the bleeder.  Once that's moving use the pliers and just pull it off.  It may come away suddenly once it gets past the ridge on the nipple.

Hope this helps,

Scott

Hank025

I ended up just cutting the hoses before the nozzle and tearing off what i couldnt cut off. My hoses seemed to be glued to the nozzles

I also found a 10M Deep Socket very useful to remove the nozzles. (for the people that dont have a full mechanics kit AutoZone will have them). A standard socket is not big enough to fit over the nozzle.

Another tip, RTV sealant is super messy, i ended up putting some on the end of one of those cheap water color paint brushes and beading it around the screw. But, I'm also second guessing my use of gasket sealant, as I am not 100% sure of its compatability with gasoline. i'll let you guys know if I start backfiring like crazy.
2007 S2R 1000