Powder coating?

Started by scduc, November 09, 2010, 04:21:16 PM

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scduc

08' S2R 1k--- Are the case covers and other inspection covers painted or powder coated? I've been told that you can re-powder coat, but if it is paint, that has to be removed before coating.
08' S2R 1K   That was close  damn near lost a $400 hand cart.

monsta

I think they're painted..
either way, you should remove it before coating.
93 M900 - 07 ST3 - 00 748s trackbike - 78 900SS - 13 848 EVO Corse SE

scduc

Ok, then assuming this is paint, the people who have powder coated their cases and such, what did you use as a stripper? Does it have any affect on the aluminum? I've just started tearing off the easy item to have coated, and want to make sure I do it right. Also, how does one get the oil temp sensor wing nut off of the valve cover.
08' S2R 1K   That was close  damn near lost a $400 hand cart.

ducpainter

Have the coater blast the parts.

Stripper will leave chemicals in the pores of the aluminum that will cause problems.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



booger

Quote from: humorless dp on November 09, 2010, 05:31:49 PM
Have the coater blast the parts.

Stripper will leave chemicals in the pores of the aluminum that will cause problems.

+1 I've seen these problems, manifesting themselves in serious surface imperfections after the finish is applied. Beadblast the part w/ glass beads - if you sandblast aluminum, you will pit it. Then thoroughly degrease before finish application whether you're going for paint or powder. It's all about the prep.
Everybody got a plan 'till they get punched in the mouth - Mike Tyson

2001 M900Sie - sold
2006 S2R1000 - sold
2008 HM1100S - sold
2004 998 FE - $old
2007 S4RT
2007 Vespa LX50 aka "Slowey"
2008 BMW R1200 GSA

ducpainter

Quote from: bergdoerfer on November 09, 2010, 05:52:20 PM
+1 I've seen these problems, manifesting themselves in serious surface imperfections after the finish is applied. Beadblast the part w/ glass beads - if you sandblast aluminum, you will pit it. Then thoroughly degrease before finish application whether you're going for paint or powder. It's all about the prep.
Degreasing should occur before blasting...

otherwise you just force the contaminants into the metal.

The proper way to do it is to coat/paint immediately after blasting without handling the part with bare hands. That eliminates any cleaning after the blast process.

Just sayin'.  ;)
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



booger

Yeah but what about the film of fine dust that remains on the part after blasting? Totally agree on not handling the piece with your hands before finish application, but I've always degreased the part before finishing, and the results were always stellar. I do not understand how contaminants can be 'forced' into the aluminum by incorporating this final step just before the application of finish. Not sassing you DP so don't smack me :D
Everybody got a plan 'till they get punched in the mouth - Mike Tyson

2001 M900Sie - sold
2006 S2R1000 - sold
2008 HM1100S - sold
2004 998 FE - $old
2007 S4RT
2007 Vespa LX50 aka "Slowey"
2008 BMW R1200 GSA

xcaptainxbloodx

dont worry about it.

remove the parts and strip all the components (fluid windows, seals, bearings etc) and bring them to a powdercoater. they will clean it and strip it before paint as they see fit.

ducpainter

Quote from: bergdoerfer on November 09, 2010, 07:51:37 PM
Yeah but what about the film of fine dust that remains on the part after blasting? Totally agree on not handling the piece with your hands before finish application, but I've always degreased the part before finishing, and the results were always stellar. I do not understand how contaminants can be 'forced' into the aluminum by incorporating this final step just before the application of finish. Not sassing you DP so don't smack me :D
The dust can easily be removed with compressed air.

My comment about forcing contaminants into the metal refers to the practice of blasting greasy parts, not cleaning after blasting.

Just trying to save you a step bro.

It may be a terminology thing.

Degrease before you do anything...prep...clean as necessary.

It really depends on your process and how you handle the part.

I will tell you there is no better process than degrease/blast/epoxy prime/paint...none.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



He Man

the paint on the cases isnt the same paint on the left and right covers apparently. THe paint on the engine itself flakes off easily with paitn stripper, not so much with the side covers...

scduc

I did find out from the clutch cover that whatever it is, it is next to impossible to remove. I tried beadblasting and it really did not do a whole lot. Granted, the blaster that I used is for fine delicate parts and even with the air pressure up to 120psi, all that really happened was the paint turn a dull color. I will make sure my Powdercoater know how the process should be done. Degrease, blast, clean and coat.
08' S2R 1K   That was close  damn near lost a $400 hand cart.