Tools - Alternatives to heinous cost of several "big" factory tools

Started by junior varsity, March 31, 2011, 05:47:00 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

junior varsity

I want to get a few more legitimate tools so when I wrench on something, I'm not likely to bone the whole job by trying to take shortcuts.

The two "big" tools that I've got on my list and would be really helpful right now are:


a) Stator holding 'wrench' - for the 3-phase charging systems - I need an alternative to Ducati Part No. 887132101.
I shat myself when I saw the cost is over $300!  The original piece was certainly less expensive, but is no longer available (887131419, $155)

b) Primary gear puller - originally was 887131502 at $140, but has been superseded to 887132092, which costs a whopping $270.00!!!!


Others include:
887131139 - the head-nuts holder wrench - it was $132 originally... but has been superseded to 887131891 which is $150!!

887005644 - layshaft pulley holder tool (can't use the cheap aftermarket "wrench" type holders since there is the flange in the way) - its another whopping $123.  faaaaaaack!

I already got the primary holder tool for "installing" the primary gear's nut (887130137), so that one is out of the way.


please let me know what you know!

Düb Lüv

when I get back up to physical bar, I'll get some ideas and pics up
Building, building, building

junior varsity

Thanks. I have a "long" list of things I want to get over time.

My short list is but a few:
1. Primary Gear Puller
2. Alternator Holding Tool for Tightening the crank nuts - 3-phase charging system style - not the old 1phase one. I've been told you can use the primary-gear holding wrench I have, but have also been told you don't want to torque nuts on one side of the crank by holding the other side and put a twisting force on the crank itself - that you are supposed to hold it on the end that you are also tightening.
3. Belt Roller Holding Tool for Tightening/Loosening nuts - to work on the flanged rollers on layshaft - the "driving rollers" - i have the aftermarket version that fits around the teeth of the cam pulleys, but it won't work on the flanged layshaft rollers - you have to use a 4-tooth holder.
4. Driving Rollers Puller - a "gear puller" for the layshaft pulleys since backyard-creativity risks damage to important parts beyond aesthetics.

Duck-Stew

As far as the primary gear puller goes, I borrowed one from a dealer & took it to a machine shop.

His price to duplicate was higher than the $270, so I just ponied up & bought 1...
Bike-less Portuguese immigrant enjoying life.

Duck-Stew

(BTW:  What I used to do before I had my own primary gear puller was to strip the cases as bare as I could, load it into the car/truck and take it to the local dealership right around closing time with a 6-pack of GOOD beer.  It never failed to get that gear pulled...)
Bike-less Portuguese immigrant enjoying life.

junior varsity

I think that's what I may need to do. Problem is - on one bike, the primary gear (and driven gear and oil pump gear) is being swapped with the lightweight versions from a VeeTwo kit I have - I hadn't planned on dropping the motor for this since its just all behind the ol' clutch cover and I do have the tools to put it back together once apart.


On the motor that's on a stand right now - this fixer-upper m900 motor I keep blathering on about, here's where I'm at:


I could certainly do the beer and closing time bit for this, and plead to have the primary and the layshaft pulleys removed.   

Will be more difficult to do such on a put together bike (gotta have a trailer to transport a half-disassembled bike around I suppose), and not sure they will be similarly inclined to help when its time to torque the alternator nuts on this thing since that requires more than simply a "kapow" of the puller.  After removing the nut, I did plan ahead, and I have a pair of the Nichols Jamb Nuts to use for re-installation.

Düb Lüv

i remove the layshaft gears i used this tool to hold it still while i loosened the castle nut. mine was semi corroded/red locktightened on. plus the crappy gears were basically in the same condition. use some MAPP gas for persuasion. i might be able to fasten a side hammer to via the m6x1.0 holes on the pulleys.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DUCATI-DRY-CLUTCH-HUB-AND-BASKET-HOLDING-TOOL-50-OFF-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem415829b7aaQQitemZ280652003242QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

i'm going to be swapping my primaries out for a different ratio. the haynes i says wedge a penny between the primaries to loosen the primary nut. kinda sketchey to me, but i thought about placing a second (smaller) primary gear and sitting it between the gears then hitting them with an impact. when loosening the primary nut it would lock in place since the second smaller primary i in place.
Building, building, building

junior varsity

I'm using the VeeTwo clutch hub/drum holding tool.   I like it a lot.

However, I'm trying to get more "book"-true, meaning the factory books, so I'm trying to cut out the items like pennies in gears, and/or using the clutch tool to hold the basket, which is bolted to the driven gear, which is meshed to the primary gear on the crankshaft to loosen the nut on the far end of the crankshaft.   methinks this is not ideal.   I certainly know its not ideal for tightening it to its recommended torque specs.

junior varsity

For all to know:  There is a gentleman on eBay, in the UK, who has the older generation and modern 2V primary gear holding tool. Shipped to the US its still a bit cheaper than ordering one from a dealer (including ordering one from a dealer online where you wouldn't pay tax and even if you received free shipping - not by much, but by around $10 - your beer money!).

There's another group on eBay in the UK that has a cam pulley nut socket that has "shoulders" to prevent the 4 teeth from slipping as easily out of the roller/pulley nuts. I haven't grabbed up one of these yet, but they offer three sizes, based on the diameter of the nuts.

The factory style pulley holding tool I have coming my way to use or at least evaluate is from Heartland Products, and can be had via Amazon or eBay. Its described as a belt-driven 2V/4V/Pantah tool, and uses the two prongs to hold the pulley on the inside, rather than 'reach around' the pulley and hold it with the teeth that run the belts.


Oh, I have forgotten to note that I sat there staring at the layshaft "driving" rollers and realized that the only reason the alternator case puller tool wouldn't work is that the distance is different.  Really would be forward-thinking of a company to design a 2-in-1 tool that did both.  Autozone, by the way, did just such a thing with a generic steering wheel puller kit, and it only requires you provide your own metric M6 bolts and the washers to keep them from slipping through its openings.   BOOM.    [thumbsup]

Cider

Quote from: j v on March 31, 2011, 05:47:00 PM
Others include:
887131139 - the head-nuts holder wrench - it was $132 originally... but has been superseded to 887131891 which is $150!!

Is that the thing to torque the nuts on the head studs?  I found an alternative to the Ducati tool that was similar to this:

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0134/

When I get home, I'll dig it out of the toolbox and see if I can find out who the manufacturer was.

junior varsity

I actually have THAT MotionPro 12mm/14mm headnuts torque wrench adapter, and have recently discovered a similar version 14mm/15mm - 12-point, that I ordered up for doing the heads on the project 900 motor, using the new design head nuts (same part number as on Hypermotard - 15mm, 12-point nuts), since my old head nuts were as dingy as could be.

Cider