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Author Topic: Holding a line  (Read 2913 times)
newbie_mike
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« on: August 29, 2011, 08:27:03 AM »

My s2r 800 has stock front end and I've noticed that it doesn't like to hold a line when I corner.  Not sure if its my own technique that is off ...

I love the way I can throw it into a corner relatively easily, but then I begin to feel like it wants to continue falling in - like the bike wants to do a decreasing radius turn. 

Not a big deal, as I have learned all I need to do is throttle more or weigh the outside bar but if it is something to do with my technique, I'd like to fix it.  I have been making it a point to keep my inner elbow down, head over the inner bar - looking through the curve, opening my hips to the curve, pressuring the outside of the tank with my thigh, and keeping my weight on the balls of my feet.
I set my speed going in and roll on through the curve.  Maybe in being so deliberate, I am causing a greater lean angle than is necessary for the pitch of the curves I am riding.

Is my problem that I just need to decrease my lean angle or go faster?  haha.
I do know that I have soft springs and could benefit from increased preload but mine are non-adjustable and if this is the only thing to gain, I'd just deal with it as is instead of spending the $$$.
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« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2011, 11:21:54 AM »

When I first started reading I thought you were going to be having the opposite problem of running wide.

Really, it's about you. A bit more throttle and letting up a bit on the lean angle (or mix there of) will solve your issue. It's way better to have the issue of running 'too tight' than running too wide all the time.

Spending money on suspension will help overall. Tuned suspension, even the stock will help braking, cornering, even tire life. So it's not a waste of cash over all. But it doesn't seem like it's *needed* to cure your issue
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« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2011, 02:33:08 PM »

The thing that helps the most is seat time. Even with wonky suspension (front sprung for my weight and rear sprung stock) seat time helped me with cornering on my monster. Recently resprung the back as well, but haven't had the sag set other than by eye ball (since I don't have friends laughingdp). It's still MUCH better than when it wasn't sprung for my weight.

For my Daytona, I had it resprung and suspension tuned by local suspension guru...HOLY COW! What a difference! Best money I've spent on either bike. I set it on a line now and it'll stay there all day. Only bad thing about this is it increased the stability so much that I find myself going faster and faster...really have to remember that I'm on the street and that the  Police are right around the next curve.

The monster springs are easy to do. Me and a couple of buds did the front in a single day with only 3 trips to the hardware store for under $200. I did the rear in my condo garage with a camping headlamp with 2 trips to the hardware store for $110. Then you have to con some friends (or pay some guys from home depot like I'm going to do) to come help you set your sag.
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« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2011, 04:26:38 PM »


A bit more throttle and letting up a bit on the lean angle (or mix there of) will solve your issue. It's way better to have the issue of running 'too tight' than running too wide all the time.



+1

If you "roll thru the turn" as you described it, then you're letting the bike get too slow.  You've already found that adding a little throttle will stabilize the lean angle (i.e., keep the bike from leaning farther) - that's a good fundamental to practice - as is accelerating out of the turn.  Don't worry about all the other positions/techniques you mentioned - imo - if your rear tire still has 1/2 inch of chicken strip on it, then you don't need to use any of them and will only get distracted while on the road.

If your suspension is way off for your body weight, the last thing you want to be doing is moving around on the bike entering/exiting a turn.
« Last Edit: August 30, 2011, 04:28:56 PM by OT » Logged
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