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Author Topic: '05 S4R bog down at 5000rpm  (Read 2197 times)
BourneS4R
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« on: August 23, 2011, 08:56:04 PM »

I bought my bike about close to two weeks ago and have put almost 200 miles on it since then. It had been running great until early this morning when I was riding home from work. Accelerating onto the interstate, I noticed that it bogged down, rather severly, in every gear (mainly 3rd, 4th and 5th) when rolling the throttle up to about 5k RPM. Let the bike sit then rode it to class this afternoon. Seems like it was doing the same thing this afternoon, just not as drastically.

The bike is now in Denver with me; came from Florida with 8300 miles on it. It now has 8500 miles. The bike has not had the ECU re-mapped to Denver's altitude, nor has it had the 7500 miles service done; namely valves and timing belt.

Does this sound like a slipping timing belt issue, something related to needing the perodic service, or something else? bang head
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« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2011, 09:34:12 PM »

I bought my bike about close to two weeks ago and have put almost 200 miles on it since then. It had been running great until early this morning when I was riding home from work. Accelerating onto the interstate, I noticed that it bogged down, rather severly, in every gear (mainly 3rd, 4th and 5th) when rolling the throttle up to about 5k RPM. Let the bike sit then rode it to class this afternoon. Seems like it was doing the same thing this afternoon, just not as drastically.

The bike is now in Denver with me; came from Florida with 8300 miles on it. It now has 8500 miles. The bike has not had the ECU re-mapped to Denver's altitude, nor has it had the 7500 miles service done; namely valves and timing belt.

Does this sound like a slipping timing belt issue, something related to needing the perodic service, or something else? bang head
the recommended service interval for that year was/is still 6000 miles.  also, the altitude will have a HUGE impact on fuel/air.  there is no "remapping" unless you have a PC or some other programmable ecu, but you can reset tps and adjust trim/idle/CO accordingly and i would do the 6k service asap. 
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BourneS4R
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« Reply #2 on: August 23, 2011, 10:36:11 PM »

Thanks for the info. How do you go about resetting the TPS? Is there literally a reset button/switch on it or does it need to be done by a dealer with a PC hook up?
I am going to try to have the valves and timing belt worked on in the next week or so. I'll take care of all the fluids before then.
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« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2011, 11:25:41 PM »

Thanks for the info. How do you go about resetting the TPS? Is there literally a reset button/switch on it or does it need to be done by a dealer with a PC hook up?
I am going to try to have the valves and timing belt worked on in the next week or so. I'll take care of all the fluids before then.

diagnostic software.  let someone who has the right gear/know how do it.  it won't cost you too much and it's worth it. 
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2008 S4RS - Tricolore #324 (about to get bastardized)
2007 S4RS - pearl/red with some tweaks (sold)
2005 S4R - Bastarda Nera (sold)
2001 M900Sie modded to high holy hell (sold)
2001 996 Biposto - (sold)
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« Reply #4 on: August 24, 2011, 03:09:40 AM »

If your timing belts slipped you would be suffering worse than a bog.  TPS won't change on it's own.  If you are going to have someone do the 7500 for you tell them the symptom you are suffering.  My guess is either your problem is due to either needing service or a bad air pressure temp/pressure sensor.
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bikepilot
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« Reply #5 on: August 24, 2011, 04:31:26 AM »

The handy thing about FI is it adjusts its own fuel map to compensate for the altitude, though the altitude will normally make faults in the base map more obvious.  You don't need to re-map for the denver altitude anymore than you need a remap at any other altitude.  Your fuel/air ratio won't really change with altitude or temp.  You still loose power at altitude and high temps because the air is thinner which results in less cylinder pressure and less to burn -- its like having a slightly smaller engine with a lower compression ratio.

As the bike is new to you it'd be wise to make sure all the maintenance stuff is up to snuff, fresh belts, plugs, oil, air filter, fuel filter, valve clearance check, etc. and if that doesn't sort it then start looking for something faulty.
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BourneS4R
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« Reply #6 on: August 27, 2011, 01:16:41 AM »

I talked to a Ducati authorized tech at Erico Motorsports here in Denver. He suspects the cause to be degraged fuel lines inside the tank. Apparently, several Ducatis run that type of fuel set up, the problem being that the fuel hoses are rubber on the inside. The rubber eventually breaks down and can gum up the system. I have scheduled the valve adjustment/timing belt/fuel filter/anomoly inspection into the problem for 06 Sept; the rest of the 7500 mile service, fluids/air filter/brakes check and swap, I'll do at home. Save at least a bit of $$.
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"Let every nation know, whether it wishes us well or ill, that we shall pay any price, meet any hardship, bear any burden, support any friend, oppose any foe, to ensure the survival and success of liberty"
                                                                      -JFK

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« Reply #7 on: August 27, 2011, 03:43:39 AM »

I talked to a Ducati authorized tech at Erico Motorsports here in Denver. He suspects the cause to be degraged fuel lines inside the tank. Apparently, several Ducatis run that type of fuel set up, the problem being that the fuel hoses are rubber on the inside. The rubber eventually breaks down and can gum up the system. I have scheduled the valve adjustment/timing belt/fuel filter/anomoly inspection into the problem for 06 Sept; the rest of the 7500 mile service, fluids/air filter/brakes check and swap, I'll do at home. Save at least a bit of $$.

More like break down and result in internal leakage.  The fix is the same though.  They will be in there to change the filter anyway.
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BourneS4R
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« Reply #8 on: August 27, 2011, 06:33:55 AM »

More like break down and result in internal leakage.  The fix is the same though.  They will be in there to change the filter anyway.

Yea, either way it will cost me the same and make the bike better off in the long run. I wonder if there is some sort of SS braid that the can use in the tank instead?
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"Let every nation know, whether it wishes us well or ill, that we shall pay any price, meet any hardship, bear any burden, support any friend, oppose any foe, to ensure the survival and success of liberty"
                                                                      -JFK

2005 Ducati Monster S4R Cheesy
2005 Suzuki SV1000S (for sale)
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