696 chain tension question

[ScottRNelson]

That is aboslutely NOT how the procedure is written in the OEM owner's manual or the service manual (not that either are written well). Nor is it how the sticker is presented on the side of the M696 which is what caused me a LOT of head scratching when we first bought it. Maybe the M696 is unique in that aspect - I don't know.

I'm just basing my information on the newest Ducati that I've owned, which was a 1998 ST2.

These are the exact words in the owner's manual for that bike, and the swingarm uses the same setup as the Monsters and 888 that I've owned:

Adjusting Chain Tension

• Raise the motorcycle onto its centre stand.
• Turn the rear wheel slowly until the chain is fully stretched.
• At the halfway mark on the swinging arm (see adhesive label on arm), press the chain upwards with one finger and measure the amount of slack.
• The lower section of chain must not give more than 30 mm when pressed at the point indicated.

It doesn't say anything about pushing down on the chain.  I found when I pushed down, then pushed up, and measured the distance, the chain was too tight at 30 mm.  But following the above method seemed to get it just right.

I don't know if it makes a difference putting the bike up on a center stand or on the sidestand.

So maybe different models have different ways to set the slack.

[JetTest]

Different bike, different procedure. The tag on the swingarm is pretty clear to me. Read it and follow it.

[Kev M]

A centerstand definitely changes things.

Looks like Ducati has used different methods on different models.

[DucNaked]

A centerstand definitely changes things.

Looks like Ducati has used different methods on different models.

This!!!
That's why every model has the correct procedure stickered to the swingarm. It's the only sticker I didn't take off and relocate. 

[metroplex]

That makes a lot more sense. Would it be ok to use a rear stand to check the chain tension, like a Pitbull SS rear stand? This should allow the swingarm to be compressed as if it were on a sidestand, but also allow me to spin the rear wheel to find the tight chain link?

[DucNaked]

That makes a lot more sense. Would it be ok to use a rear stand to check the chain tension, like a Pitbull SS rear stand? This should allow the swingarm to be compressed as if it were on a sidestand, but also allow me to spin the rear wheel to find the tight chain link?

I would say no. Check it on sidestand. Both my bikes S2r and m1100s state (on the sticker) to perform the service on the sidestand.

[Kev M]

That makes a lot more sense. Would it be ok to use a rear stand to check the chain tension, like a Pitbull SS rear stand? This should allow the swingarm to be compressed as if it were on a sidestand, but also allow me to spin the rear wheel to find the tight chain link?

I use a roller stand that I got from Aerostich (the small portable one). This allows the bike to sit on the sidestand and the rear tire with only a minimal (if any) change in swingarm position, but it also allows me to roll the rear tire and check various positions for the tight spot.

We also use this in lieu of a rear pit stand for cleaning and lubricating the chain.

Plus it's portable and if she ever decides to tour on this bike then we can take it with us too.

[Howie]

As long as the weight of the bike is supported by the springs all is good, sidestand, rear stand, lift with the bike held vertical in a wheel vise, all the same.  It is the angle of the swing arm that matters.

[Kev M]

As long as the weight of the bike is supported by the springs all is good, sidestand, rear stand, lift with the bike held vertical in a wheel vise, all the same.  It is the angle of the swing arm that matters.

My thought is that when you lift the bike (even if you do so via the swingarm so it continues to bear weight) you actually change the amount of weight on the rear suspension (you shift more of the weight onto the front wheel the higher the rear is lifted).

I'm probably being somewhere between anal-retentive and pedantic worrying about that (i.e. it's probably an RCH of a difference) but I'm sure there is a difference.

That said, I suspect a pit stand would work fine.

[Howie]

My thought is that when you lift the bike (even if you do so via the swingarm so it continues to bear weight) you actually change the amount of weight on the rear suspension (you shift more of the weight onto the front wheel the higher the rear is lifted).

I'm probably being somewhere between anal-retentive and pedantic worrying about that (i.e. it's probably an RCH of a difference) but I'm sure there is a difference.

That said, I suspect a pit stand would work fine.

True, but the difference is insignificant. 

[Kev M]

True, but the difference is insignificant. 

Agreed

[Mozella]

Agreed

This is a post revived from the dead, but it needs correcting. 
First of all, Ducati gives the Monster 696 chain tension specifications using the side stand because everybody has one.  If you have a paddock stand, fine, but mine can be installed so that it supports the rear swing arm right below the axle OR, way forward of that position so that it can significantly affect the swing arm angle and therefore impact the chain tension adjusting procedure.  In other words, you CAN use a paddock stand, but the numbers you use for chain tension may be different from what Ducati prints.

Ducati has published two ways to measure chain tension, BOTH of which say use the side stand.  Begin by rolling the bike to find the tightest part of the chain.  The procedure I prefer says to pull DOWN on the middle of the lower run.  The English and British shop manual notes stop there and go on to the next step where it says to measure the distance between the middle of a link pin to the lower edge of the aluminum swing arm.  The distance must be 47mm plus or minus one mm.  However, the Italian version of the same manual says pull down in the middle of the lower run and THEN RELEASE THE TENSION.  In other words, the English versions don't say to keep tension or release it.  They don't address it one way or the other, but the Italian version does.  If using this method, you should NOT be touching the chain when you measure and the measurement is to the center of a link pin, not the lower edge of the chain side plate.

I live in Italy and these sorts of translation errors crop up all the time.  Don't get me started on my Alfa Spider manuals........... sigh.

Ducati has also published an entirely different procedure where you pull down with one finger on the lower run of the chain, measure the distance, then push up on the chain, and again measure the distance.  The "movement" or "slack" between up and down should be 25-27mm.  Of course, getting the numbers used with this procedure mixed up with the numbers used in the first example is a sure recipe for trouble.  Either method is fine, but be sure you know which is which.

When my chain tension is set correctly, I can push up on the lower run with three four fingers and if I use considerable force I can JUST get it to bounce off the rubber slider on the under side of the swing arm.  This takes a pretty good force and it is NOT something I can do with only one finger.  I also can't hold it against the slider, it just bounces off, but it does make contact.  That's my quick and dirty check and it matches pretty well with both of the procedures printed by Ducati.

I hope this clears up some misunderstandings for new Ducati owners.

[Kev M]

Thanks for the additional input from the Italian language version of the manuals.

Makes sense to me.

I still suspect we're talking RCHs on the stand thing, but I check it on the sidestand anyway so no problems here.

[metroplex]

Yeah it makes a lot more sense to let go of the chain to make the measurement.

[Kev M]

Oh duh - I WAS releasing - that's what the sticker on the side of our 696 says (that I posted a pick of earlier in this thread).