Instrument cluster issue 04 620

Goggles Pizano · August 21, 2009, 08:49:25 PM

Only have the housing and gasket off so far. I will take pics in the AM to clarify what I am about to take apart...

Goggles Pizano · August 23, 2009, 07:39:55 AM

Dumb question, how do the needles come off?

Bones · August 23, 2009, 08:45:44 AM

be VERY careful when removing the needles. I've done this a few times on the monster and its easy to break something when removing the needles. usually, you can pull them up by applying steady, even pressure with two spoons acting as levers. DO THIS VERY CAREFULLY. then there are retention clips that hold the gauge covers to the housing. careful there too. my advice to you is to mark the position of rest of the needles with ignition off using a marker on the inside of the housing (you will only see the marks when the gauge cover and rubber seal are off. When putting the needles back on, nice even steady pressure, but don;t push them too far where the contact the retentions clips (otherwise they stick as they sweep) I always plug in the harness and and let the gauges sweep a ton of times before to test before I close everything up.

Goggles Pizano · August 24, 2009, 02:41:57 PM

Ok, pulled the gauges apart. There was some corrosion around the immobilizer LED, but nothing too bad. I cleaned that up with a tooth brush and it made no difference.

Is there an easier way to find a screwed up wire other than cutting the harness apart and tracing each one end to end?

ducpainter · August 24, 2009, 02:46:07 PM

Did you check the harness where it bends around the steering head?

That location has been a source of other electrical problems on many bikes.

I've never heard of your issues being caused by a problem there though.

2001cromo · August 24, 2009, 03:20:14 PM

Do check the harness around the headtube as that is a very likely place for issues...

But I've gotta say, that board you're showing looks all too familiar.

Here's a picture of Michelle's old bozomobilizer board. (realize they're flipped 180 degrees from each other your pic / my pic)

A is the bozomobilzer light

At least your chips haven't slid off, but the corrosion looks the same and in the same place.

To put this into an expensive reality.
The only way you can prove that gauge cluster is failing is to replace it with a virgin new set and confirm the problem is no more. Or find something that's causing you grief in the wiring harness at the front headtube and fix that.

But if it's the gauges, IMHO you're better off changing the ECU for one that doesn't have that bozomobilizer in it cause then your bike will always start.

For just a little more money, I believe you can get a Nemisis ECU that will rid you of the bozomobilizer completely. But I have no FHE with this unit, but have heard nothing but praise from people in this industry that I trust (for example, Doug Lofgren and Bruce Meyers).

From personal experience, I HIGHLY recommend against doing the ECU flash option. That only caused us more grief and loss of money for the flash and left us with a destroyed ECU and a bike that would no longer start/run.

Goggles Pizano · August 24, 2009, 03:34:56 PM

Did you replace or repair the board? I did put a silica gel pack in the housing to dry up any moisture that may get in there. Although I don't think that is my issue. Off to check wires.

2001cromo · August 24, 2009, 03:38:31 PM

Quote from: Goggles Pizano on August 24, 2009, 03:34:56 PM
Did you replace or repair the board?

replaced gauges. Picture above was the first set that came with the bike.
She ended up going thru I believe 4-5 sets total, but I lost count.

From what I've seen over the years, it seems like either people have shit tons of problems with them or none at all.

Goggles Pizano · August 25, 2009, 05:42:51 PM

Quote from: 2001cromo on August 24, 2009, 03:38:31 PM
replaced gauges. Picture above was the first set that came with the bike.
She ended up going thru I believe 4-5 sets total, but I lost count.

From what I've seen over the years, it seems like either people have shit tons of problems with them or none at all.

She lost 4-5 sets due to corrosion?! Or was it something else that caused the replacement? What did you try to keep the moisture out and what is being done now? (I assume you aren't just waiting for the next one to fail...) Hell, I'll run a heating element through there to dry things out if it will work. The ECU/immobilizer isn't the problem yet.

Haven't looked at the wires yet, too humid as of late. This weekend should give me some time to dig into it. I'll post up what I find.

ducpainter · August 25, 2009, 05:52:43 PM

Quote from: Goggles Pizano on August 25, 2009, 05:42:51 PM
She lost 4-5 sets due to corrosion?! Or was it something else that caused the replacement? What did you try to keep the moisture out and what is being done now? (I assume you aren't just waiting for the next one to fail...) Hell, I'll run a heating element through there to dry things out if it will work. The ECU/immobilizer isn't the problem yet.

Haven't looked at the wires yet, too humid as of late. This weekend should give me some time to dig into it. I'll post up what I find.

Not to speak out of turn, but I witnessed IGs bike as a no start after sitting o/night in the rain.

That's why I mentioned the corrosion issue.

I've seen another similar vintage 620 that was sold rather than replace gauges due to corrosion.

Goggles Pizano · August 25, 2009, 06:59:15 PM

No doubt you were right about the corrosion, so no need to think you are out of turn! I just don't think the cluster is causing my issue as the bike still starts and runs fine. Not to say that it isn't 2 starts away from failing, but it definitely was not the trigger to this issue. It was something I did. I am almost certain it was when I hit the low beam (HID) without the engine running.

It still could be the instrument cluster that I fried and just can't see where, but I'm leaning toward the wires. I DO know that the cluster will be a problem soon (if not already) though... Which does leave me curious as to the suggestions of which ECU to use and no mention of which aftermarket gauges. I understand the need to get rid of the immobilizer, but if the gauges will still fail it seems like an additional maintenance cost that I'm not willing to keep paying. Perhaps a fan or air circulation system installed in the gauge pod... $:-\$

Lieven · April 20, 2012, 01:41:09 AM

I know this is an old topic. But I have the same problem. Also a 620ie from 2004
I found an SMD component that was burned out. It is a BAV70 dual diode in a SOT-23 case. It has an A4 printed on it.
As you can see in the picture of "Goggles Pizano" it's burned out too.

But now the high beam stays also on.

So now I have to find out how to fix that problem.
But then I need a scheme of the print.
Can someone help me with that?

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Instrument cluster issue 04 620