Diagnosing Charging problem - tests already complete

[gage]

Hi All,

I have determined that my bike is not charging properly. This after the bike hiccuped then 1/4mile down the road stalled and wouldn't restart.

Here are the results of my tests. Can you please help me interpert these results?

battery:
static - 12.8 volts - wanted to see around 13.5
dynamic - 12.4 volts - wanted to see 14 volts +
Battery was charged on a real charger before test but still needs to be load tested

Stator:
No continuity between Ground and each yellow stator wire
Full Continuity between each stator wire

Stator output AC Voltage:
Each Stator combination is putting out about 13 - 16.5 AC volts at idle which bounces around a bit. At 3000 rpm I am seeing around 42 VoltsAC. These reading are fairly consistant from wire to wire. At 3000 rpm I should be seeing more VAC correct somewhere north or 48 vAC correct? How from desired is this reading? Is my Stator dead?

Rectifier/Regulator
This perplexes me a bit - I have continuity between the input yellow wires and the green output wires but NOT the red output wires on the Regulator Rectifier. Shouldn't I have continuity between the red wires and the yellow wires? Is this telling me that everything switched off the ground?

As you can probably tell this is the first time I have used a multimeter for this kind of test so if you could please guide me to the solution I would be really grateful!!

Thanks

[J5]

download the chart here

easy to follow through

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide

[Howie]

By static voltage I assume you mean bike not running.  The voltage reading indicates state of charge.  A load test is needed to confirm your battery condition.  12.8 is 100% for a conventional battery, a little under for an AGM, though more than good enough to start the bike.  Some trickle chargers will not fully charge an AGM battery, depending on float voltage.

By dynamic I assume you mean bike running.  Low reading.  Any increase with engine speed?  What is your idle speed?

Try a few more RPM on the stator test.  Your (not very) low reading could be a result of the tach reading a little high and meter tolerance.  Anyway, 42 on each leg should not be a problem.

Forgot what you ride.  Single phase or three phase system?  Any signs of high resistance where the regulator connects to the stator?

Anyway, sounds like your regulator is toast (assuming you checked the 30 or 40 amp fuse and regulator ground). 

[gage]

By static voltage I assume you mean bike not running.  The voltage reading indicates state of charge.  A load test is needed to confirm your battery condition.  12.8 is 100% for a conventional battery, a little under for an AGM, though more than good enough to start the bike.  Some trickle chargers will not fully charge an AGM battery, depending on float voltage.

By dynamic I assume you mean bike running.  Low reading.  Any increase with engine speed?  What is your idle speed?

Try a few more RPM on the stator test.  Your (not very) low reading could be a result of the tach reading a little high and meter tolerance.  Anyway, 42 on each leg should not be a problem.

Forgot what you ride.  Single phase or three phase system?  Any signs of high resistance where the regulator connects to the stator?

Anyway, sounds like your regulator is toast (assuming you checked the 30 or 40 amp fuse and regulator ground). 

You are correct in your assumptions as to static and dynamic voltage.

There was no increase in dynamic charge with a change in rpm - idle is set slightly over 1100rpm

In the Stator test I got 70vAC at 5000rpm - is that ok?

I tested the regulator/rectifier again and had continuity between the GREEN output wires and the YELLOW input wires in both directions. I believe this is where my problem is. I don't have continuity between the RED output wires and YELLOW input wires which would mean that the diodes within the rectifier/regulator are toast? There is no signs of burning or overcharged wires.

[ducpainter]

By static voltage I assume you mean bike not running.  The voltage reading indicates state of charge.  A load test is needed to confirm your battery condition.  12.8 is 100% for a conventional battery, a little under for an AGM, though more than good enough to start the bike.  Some trickle chargers will not fully charge an AGM battery, depending on float voltage.

By dynamic I assume you mean bike running.  Low reading.  Any increase with engine speed?  What is your idle speed?

Try a few more RPM on the stator test.  Your (not very) low reading could be a result of the tach reading a little high and meter tolerance.  Anyway, 42 on each leg should not be a problem.

Forgot what you ride.  Single phase or three phase system?  Any signs of high resistance where the regulator connects to the stator?

Anyway, sounds like your regulator is toast (assuming you checked the 30 or 40 amp fuse and regulator ground). 

He rides an S4. Should be 3 phase.

[gage]

He rides an S4. Should be 3 phase.

[Howie]

Good stator.  If the connector to the regulator is good the regulator ground and the 40 amp fuse is good you need a regulator.

[gage]

Good stator.  If the connector to the regulator is good the regulator ground and the 40 amp fuse is good you need a regulator.

Connector is good, fuse is good, but... does the Regulator ground through the frame or the GREEN wires? I'll check that and then order

[suzyj]

It grounds through the green wires.