4v Valve check basic procedure checklist questions

[thought]

Hey guys,

I'm going to do my 7500 mile service this weekend on my SF and I just wanted to run down a quick checklist of steps.  I've helped out on a 2v valve check before so I have a basic idea but this will be my first 4v.

I've got one or two questions that I want to get 100% sure on before I start though.  I have LT's book and I've been double checking some online guides but some mention steps that others dont... just want to make sure which ones I def need to take are of.

1. Remove bodywork/sparkplugs/radiator etc

2. Set horizontal cylinder to TDC on compression stroke.  This is where I was a bit iffy... does it need to be on the compression stroke?  I see some guides say it's a must, others dont mention it at all.

3. Remove belts after marking them up.  I'll be replacing them at this service so I'll be marking them up etc.  I also have the cam holding tool... should I fit it at this point and leave it there for the rest of the valve check?  Or do I only need to put it on once I need to put the belts back on? Will keeping it under tension affect the valve measurements?

4. Check horizontal valves

5. Rotate crankshaft till vertical cylinder is at TDC on compression stroke.

6. Check vertical valves

7. Shim as necessary.

8. Refit belts

9. Rotate engine by hand to make sure it turns freely

10. Refit everything else.

And one last question about the shims... I know that on 2v's it's good to set the closers to as close to 0 as possible... is this the same for 4v's?  Or should I just try to set everything to LT's or Ducati's specs?

Thanks for any help on this

[Speeddog]

1) Not sure what all crap has to come off an SF to do valves.
Don't remove the radiator unless you have to, some Ducs you can dismount it and maneuver it out of the way.

2) Line up the drive pulley dot with the hashmark on the clutch cover, before you remove belts, ALWAYS.
This puts the horizontal cylinder at TDC compression.
Check to see what dots on the cam pulleys line up with what marks on the heads.
2-valve and Desmoquattro have corresponding marks on the heads.
Testas have nothing on the heads (it's lunacy, but it is what it is  ).
Mark all 4 cam pulleys in a TOTALLY CLEAR FORMAT on how they are aligned, and "intake", "exhaust".
Take pictures of both sets of pulleys that clearly show the marks.
Verify that you've done all this with the drive pulley dot lined up with the hashmark.
I'll try to track down some pics to illustrate....
Measure the up/down belt freeplay on the run between the cam pullies, and write that down.

3) Don't bother marking the belts, it's of no benefit.
It's the alignment of pulleys/cams with respect to the case/heads that matters.
Not sure what cam holding tool you have...can you post a picture of it?
Take the belts off.

4)Check valve clearances on the horizontal.
You have to remove the cams to swap the shims.
Not sure how the SF has the cam caps, some Testas  have a handy threaded hole to jack the caps up off of the dowels.
Beware that when you remove the second cap, the cams can fall onto the floor at the least provocation.
Don't let that happen.

4a) Shim as necessary.
Don't drop the half-rings.
Reinstall the half-rings in the same way they came out.
If you carefully remove one, clean it, and inspect with a magnifying glass, you can see the wear pattern from the valve and shim.


More later......

[thought]

Thanks a lot Speeddog

Here's a guide on the sf valve check that I was using to get a basic idea of the steps so you can get an idea of what the inside of the SF looks like:

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/138-streetfighter/137619-valve-adjust-testa.html

I dont think you can leave the radiator hanging for the SF because it has upper and lower radiators but I'll take a look when I start the process.  That would def help a lot in speeding up the steps.

I'll be using where the valve cover meets the head to mark the cams... that seems like what everyone else uses as a ref point.

This is the cam holding tool that I bought:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271023127745?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

One quick question about cam holding tools though.  I just saw that there are plastic ones instead of metal ones that say they will not damage the cams.  Is it something that can easily happen with metal ones?

And I was aware of the flat vs round side of the half rings but does it matter what left/right orientation they go in?  As in should I try to put them back exactly as I pulled them out or as long as the flat/round orientation is fine it should be ok?

Thanks again for the advice