clutch engages too close to bars after fluid change

Started by darksouls, July 28, 2015, 03:57:19 PM

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darksouls

Hey guys, I put new fluid for the clutch in, and mityvac it to bleed. Clutch engages close to the handlebars now with no lever change, whereas before i bled it it engaged almost towards the end of travel. Curious to see if this is normal with new fluid, or if i have air in the line, or it originally had air in the line before the change. It fully disengages when the lever is all the way, but the slightest release and it takes right off. Thanks for the input!

Speeddog

If by "lever in all the way" you mean lever pulled to the bar, then you've got air in the system.
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darksouls

Quote from: Speeddog on July 28, 2015, 05:30:05 PM
If by "lever in all the way" you mean lever pulled to the bar, then you've got air in the system.

Ahh ok. I guess keep bleeding then. I'm going to try "back bleeding".  When using the mityvac , there are no air bubbles. Hard to beiieve this little line is giving me so much trouble haha.

SpikeC

You probably have an air bubble up at the master.
Spike Cornelius
  PDX
   2009 M1100S Assorted blingy odds and ends(now gone)
2008 Bimota DB5R  woo-Hoo!
   1965 T100SC

Uksurfer


darksouls

Quote from: Uksurfer on July 29, 2015, 12:49:06 PM
Have you bled the lever as well as the clutch?

I havent. I didnt realize that you could. I'm going to look up how to do it on youtube. So far i've bled almost 32oz through the system haha. I'm a noob.

darksouls

Ok so....I tried 2 methods of bleeding the master. I tried priming it (holding my thumb over the banjo bolt and pumping the lever) i felt pressure and did it until there was quite a bit of suction, then re-attached the hose and bled. 2 i pumped the lever with the cap off and watched for bubbles. Didnt see any bubbles, although it squirted at me if i press the lever too quickly. both times i adjusted the bars so it was at the highest point, and even took the master off and had a helper hold it up off the bars and to be sure it didnt drain fluid. I am at a loss. Only thing i havent tried is reverse bleeding, however maybe between handlebar switches the master went bad?

Raux

Tie the lever against the bar overnight

darksouls

Quote from: Raux on July 29, 2015, 03:46:30 PM
Tie the lever against the bar overnight

keep the cap on or off?

Raux

On but loose to keep dirt out

darksouls

Quote from: Raux on July 29, 2015, 05:31:35 PM
On but loose to keep dirt out

So I checked it when i got out of work. It is improved from what it was but still close to the bar engaging. Do you recommend I leave it like that for another day or try bleeding the system again? Thanks for the help! [thumbsup]

Raux

I had to bleed two full cup fullls

darksouls

Well I ended up doing a reverse bleed. $5 of 3/16 hose and free syringes from rite aid did what a $70 mityvac tool couldnt. I'm sure a case with no severe airlock, the mityvac is super easy.

Howie

Quote from: darksouls on August 03, 2015, 03:06:57 PM
Well I ended up doing a reverse bleed. $5 of 3/16 hose and free syringes from rite aid did what a $70 mityvac tool couldnt. I'm sure a case with no severe airlock, the mityvac is super easy.

I find the mighty vac good for changing the fluid, not so good for bleeding.

Speeddog

Quote from: howie on August 03, 2015, 03:27:46 PM
I find the mighty vac good for changing the fluid, not so good for bleeding.

Yep.

I slurp the old fluid out of the reservoir with the Mityvac and it's canister, then hook the canister to the bleed nipple.
Fill the reservoir with new fluid.
Then bleed the normal way.
- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~