Idle Adjustment

[d4nk0]

DMF, I need your advice:

The idle on my 2000 Ducati 750 is set a bit low.
I'd like to raise the idle, but I don't entirely know how.

I looked up pages like this:
http://www.ducatisuite.com/carbsynch.html
(second to last picture helps the most)

After some time, I located the carb but I couldn't really determine which screw was the idle adjustment screw.

So with that, I have some questions:

1. Am I, someone with very little mechanic skills, capable of adjusting the idle? Or is it recommended that I take it into a mechanic?

2. If adjusting the idle is within my ability to perform/learn, would I be able to adjust the idle without removing any parts of the bike?

3. If I need to remove some components before adjusting the idle, what do I take out?

Thanks,
Eric

[Howie]

I just looked at Ducati Suite.  The green arrow points to the idle speed screw.  It would have been better if he did the photo on the bike, but....  You will need to remove the oil cooler from it's mount.  You can just let it sit on the fender.  Place a shop towel under the cooler so it doesn't scratch the fender.  A long screwdriver will make life easier.  Warm up the bike fully first. 

[d4nk0]

Thanks for the reply

This is an actual picture of the bike.
Is that the oil cooler? (highlighted in red)



Should the bike be on while I adjust it?

And do I need a tool to know when the idle is set appropriately or can I just do it by ear?

Thanks so much

[JoeP]

The bike should be on when you adjust the idle screw. After warming the bike up fully, use the tachometer to check that the idle is close to spec (~1100-1200 rpm I think?). However, if your carbs are out of sync the bike will still idle poorly.

[Howie]

Yep, the pink thing is the oil cooler.  You will need a tach that registers for a two cylinder.  As Joe P11-1200 RPM is the spec. 

[uclabiker06]

If your valves are out of spec it can lower your idle from my understanding.  Are you valves up to par ?

[d4nk0]

The bike should be on when you adjust the idle screw. After warming the bike up fully, use the tachometer to check that the idle is close to spec (~1100-1200 rpm I think?). However, if your carbs are out of sync the bike will still idle poorly.

What if my bike doesn't have a tachometer? Should I buy the meter? Or do you think I could do it by ear?

If your valves are out of spec it can lower your idle from my understanding.  Are you valves up to par ?

Does this mean synchronizing the Carbs? Because I haven't done that but I don't actually know if they are out of sync.


The bike starts well and the engine stays on, but the problem is it flutters and sounds like its borderline about to cut out. Just wanted to turn it up a little bit.

[Ddan]

You may be fine just turning it up a bit until the idle smooths out.  There may be something else out of whack that's causing the rough idle so it would probably be worth it to eventually  get it to a good shop and establish a well running baseline before you start to make too many other changes. 

[Howie]

I agree with Dan.

[d4nk0]

You may be fine just turning it up a bit until the idle smooths out.  There may be something else out of whack that's causing the rough idle so it would probably be worth it to eventually  get it to a good shop and establish a well running baseline before you start to make too many other changes. 

Yea, here's what just happened.

I took the Oil Cooler off just like everyone said. I found the idle screw and adjusted it about 40 degrees tighter while the bike was off (stupid). I did that because I don't have a long screwdriver so I would probably burn myself if the engine were on and I tried to adjust it. When I tried to start it, it made a loud pop sound and I immediately let go of the starter. I immediately undid everything and screwed back on the oil cooler and it was fine again, it would start up and run as normal with the usual low idle.
Needless to say, I was pretty terrified.

So I will take your advice and leave the idle adjustment to a professional.

[brad black]

by 40 degrees tighter you mean about 1/8 of a turn in?  won't make much difference, certainly nothing wrong with doing it while the engine is off.

but it sounds like you need someone to show you or to pay to have it done.  no point doing something that terrifies you.

might be worth doing the float bowl drain, sync and mixture adjust thing all at the same time too.  also make sure the plug lead caps are a good fit on the leads.  they can get crappy too.

[memper]

Just my two cents: get a manual and some basic tools like a socket set, hex keys, hex sockets (metric of course) and a couple different screwdrivers and pliers. The adjustments to the carbs are really easy if you just read and take your time. Honestly the hardest part is the angle to which one must contort their body to get at the screws and stuff. It's just a machine, no reason to be frightened. Though I understand feeling intimidated and overwhelmed.

But understand the money spent on tools and a manual(s) pales in comparison to what a shop would charge you and the sense of empowerment one gains from doing their own work is priceless.

[brad black]

my point would be that often a low idle issue is not just a low idle issue.

and that routine maintenance is a good place to start learning about working on it.  solving a potential problem generally is not, as it can be a minefield.

[SpikeC]

 I'm with both Brad and Memper here, first get some tools then work through the maintenance program that you can handle, the more you do the more you will be able to do!