what do you folks think of this engine?

[Duck-Stew]

ok, got my response

stamp on the heads is V2.
engine number: LC4V039641
manifolds will be included.
gear box is included.
came off running bike.

SCORE! 

[Howie]

Your 750 carbs will need to be completely jetted for the 900.

[Rudemouthsky]

I might pick up a set of pre jetted FCR's from Chris Kelly since I got such a good deal. $400+$260 s/h...if this engine is in good shape I think I did pretty good.

[Rudemouthsky]

according to CK it's an extremely good idea to check on the oil galley plug as they have a tendency to back out on these older SS engines. I would really rather not split the cases as this engine swap is already going to be testing my mechanical prowess. If I don't find any metal shavings in the oil, can I assume things are in good shape? on an engine this crusty tho, I guess I really ought to do all the recommended TLC while it's on the bench...

If I do split the cases, any other recommendations are welcome and appreciated.

[ducpainter]

You'll be able to see the plug if you pull the cylinders. You can also check on the cylinder studs at that point. I think those early motors had the weak studs from the factory.

If they break they can be a real chore to get out.

[Howie]

If the studs are bright and shiny they should be replaced while the engine is out.  Our sponsor California Cycleworks can help with the studs.  I would also check the the oil galley plugs before installing the engine.  Better to check now rather than after the engine is in the frame and a few thousand miles later you see the shavings.

[Rudemouthsky]

After all my flaking out, hand wringing, and incessant questions I ran a complete circle and am just going to fix up this 900ss engine and put the damn thing in.


It's amazing how much more confident I feel now that it's cleaned up and hung up.
I'm not going to pay anyone to do any of this for me. It's my bike, my engine, and I want to do it myself. So, hopefully ya'all will put up with more questions.

- If the end plug is tight I'll leave the cases alone and just remove the cylinders, replace the studs, and fit a set of JE high comp pistons; Can I expect things to go fairly smooth with stock ignition timing? I don't really want to go all half cocked with my $ again and buy an Ignitech just yet.

I can take anything apart and put it back together...I just don't know much about how engines actually work. If advancing or retarding the timing is going to be necessary I would buy the Ignitech instead of attempting to fiddle with that. Tuning things is where I'm really clueless. Hoping that my open airbox, FCR's, dynacoils, and high comp pistons will all just magically play well together. Yeah that sounds stupid.

I'm figuring to start, I need to order the pistons+rings and go from there...

[koko64]

Hi comp pistons, FCRs, Dyna coils and open airbox is a great combination and you will really notice the difference. Better bite the bullet and get the Ignitech for sure (and consider premium fuel). There are forum members who can help you with the Ignitech mapping. You need to run less maximum full advance and a gentler advance curve with hi comp pistons, but we can help you with that down the track.

If you stay with stock pistons you dont need the Ignitech or expensive fuel, just a thought. High comp gives more exciting engine response however.