Replace a Dry Clutch Pressure Plate

This topic appeared over an over again in the past, so I figured I'd write it up any maybe it'll make a FAQ entry or summin'.

Tools:
5mm Allen
4mm Allen
Torque wrench w/ 4mm allen attachment - optional but recommended
Loctite, Medium - optional

I'll assume the old one is already off and the new one has a new bearing for the sake of space.

1. Locate the index mark on you new pressure plate. One of the holes for the springs will be marked in some fashion. On the stock plate there is a triangle cast into the outward facing section. On a SpeedyMoto there are two marks that straddle the a spring hole, and MPL has a small drilled 'dot'. Others many vary - but there *will* be 1 and only 1 mark

2. Locate the indexed hub post. 1 of the clutch hub post will have a hash mark across it's face, right where the retainer screw threads in.

3. Mount the new pressure plate by centering it on the push rod and aligning the indexing marks on the hub and plate. If you have it lined up correctly the plate should slide right on with a tiny wiggle and you'll be able to compress the plate stack by hand at that time.

If you put the plate on and cannot get it to contact your plate stack, double check that index mark 1st. Then start looking for any burrs, debris or other things that might get in the way. Sometimes it just takes a little wiggle while applying some pressure to the plate to seat it fully.

4. Install your springs. I give my retaining screws a few turns before moving to the next spring, in a star pattern to even out the load. Takes a little longer as I have to do the circuit a few times, but it ensures an even distribution of force.
*Optional - some folks recommend using some medium Loctite on these bolts. Though the tension on the springs should keep then snug, they can back out. I had it happen, so now I loctite, it's cheap insurance.

Remember! The torque spec for the retainer bolts is only 7Nm. People have snapped the posts off their hub by applying too much torque. 7 Nm is a pretty gentle hand tight. I use a an 18v Craftsman electric drill WITH A CLUTCH to do this step. For that particular drill, the 2nd clutch position is about bang on 7Nm. If you do use power tools - make sure there's a clutch and it can be set to low torque. You're just using it to spin in the bolts faster - be sure to set your final torque properly, by hand with a torque wrench.

5. Test her out. The plate should move freely away from the plate stack and back again when ever the clutch lever is pulled. It if doesn't move away, or hangs (and the old PP was fine) inspect the new one for burrs or other crap that are causing binding.

Other things to note or check while you're at it:
- If you get a different spring set or spring retainer set that came with a new set of bolts - but sure to use the new ones when you install. Some of the spring retainers on the market have slightly different dimensions than the stockers and different bolts are needed to account for that difference while keeping the stick spring tensions.

- If you're doing this job - it's a good time to inspect you push rod. Things to watch for are damage or excess wear to the 2 orings on the slave side. Also look for sings the push rod has been rotating. This can mean your pressure plate throw out bearing wasn't spinning free.. but that's ok because you should have already replaced the old one as part of this whole process - right?

- Grease that push rod. While everything's already apart it's a good time to apply a bit of grease to the end of the push rod. Use quality stuff that is up to the pressure of the job - White lithium will not do, so don't.

- If you're feeling industrious, you can have a look at your clutch pack for signs of excess wear or damage. IF you do start pulling plates, get a sharpie and mark them so you can be sure of the order they came out in and which side is the 'out' side. Juggling up worn plates isn't the worst thing you can do though.