Water drained into the air box over 4 months outside...it don’t start. 620 ’06.

[nllm_oo_mlln]

Water drained into the air box over 4 months outside* when I lost my only key last July. On top of that it needed a valve check/ adj... now it's my project bike.  The problem is I'm not a gearhead-- I don't know if i'm gonna have to pull the heads, crack the bottom or just turn it upside-down ;)



*the tank was on but it's from one of our sponsors. My fault: I broke the rain drain in a relocation.


PS: I'm also entertaining getting that 620 engine painted/finished "right" (esp the heads.)  My project bike ultimately means: I LOVE IT (not to be confused with my IT department because I hate those F********)

[EEL]

I dont get it...if its in the airbox cant you just  drain it by taking the air filter out and using a shop vac?

Or do you mean it got into the cylinder heads?

[nllm_oo_mlln]

the gasket isn't closed-cell foam. The gasket on the air filter was soaked with water. All the water in the air box evaporated by the time i found the key

I'm not sure how far it got down OR WHERE IT WENT.  However when I hit the ignition w/the air box off I'm certain water splashed up (vertical cyl / front air box intake... 2 weeks ago)

Thanks for the early response bud!

[koko64]

Did you try turning it over with the plugs out and grounded to the motor? Be interested to see if water comes out. If it does, don't turn it over more than a few revolutions to blow out the water, squirt some oil into the cylinders and turn it over to lube the bores. Drain your oil and replace it and your filter, note if the oil is milky (it might show in the oil level window). Are your plugs rusty on the internal side? Might as well change them at a few bucks each. You will need a new air filter unless it's a K&N or similar type, then it will need servicing.

I would scrub the electrical cables at their lugs and spray some electrical sparay, WD40 or some such around where switches and the like have got wet. Dielectric grease, is going to be handy too for sealing cleaned and reconnected wiring.

How bad is the chain? Rusty?

I hope Howie walks by, he has lots of good tips.

[Howie]

Koko got it covered for now, though I might pull the spark plugs and rotate the engine manually first.  In gear and rotate rear wheel is fine.  Maybe drain the oil first so you can look for water.  Enough oil will remain on the parts to turn the engine manually.  If the engine turns, a cylinder leakage test might be in order if the equipment is available.  If not, fresh clean oil, cheap dino wlii be fine for now, new plugs and try starting it.  From then on it is mostly luck. 

[ducpainter]

To add to what howie and Koko offered...

fresh fuel might not be a bad idea.

[nllm_oo_mlln]

Thanks fellas.

I've since asked a buddy at work about this too.  He drag races an older R6 and does his own engine work as well as a sledneck, drags cars, and motocross and he pretty much said what you guys are saying. he told me something I failed to realize: the air intake side is sealed from the fuel and combustion side in four stroke EFI... it has to in order to do its job. Therefore water shouldn't have gotten in to the motor. 

What I'm hearing from you guys is that components may have corroded, cracked, worn...since or before the water intrusion: so water draining into the motor is still a possibility?

As he suggested too; an oil change is in order removing water from most* of the motor (esp the crank via crank vent).  Am I getting it?

Finally how soon should I get in there? It was a project bike until I heard this positive news.

*"most": Water can get anywhere and a motor has all kinds of valleys and and points for condensation. It's in the air we breathe! It's my belief nothing on earth is waterproof.

[Howie]

Only when the intake valve is closed. 

[nllm_oo_mlln]

Did you try turning it over with the plugs out and grounded to the motor?...

How bad is the chain? Rusty?

I hope Howie walks by, he has lots of good tips.

The chain is normal: dirty, black and rusty. Perhaps 20% rusty...just like when I procrastinate for for almost a month on maintenance parts (or spring). We had a dry summer last year in the Mitten and it's been inside since fall.

As for the plugs grounded to the motor= headache... Actually I kinda get it. With some Google help and 12v knowledge from 25 years ago i get that negative ground is returning current. I don't understand why It doesn't shock me when I touch it but I know it works. I'll do my research before I ground my plugs and try that. Thank you.

Ducpainter: noted It acts just like waterlogged fuel. I tried that a dozen times and it worked until now-- I've had a blind faith after 3 refuels aprox' 144 pulls since last fall. It's not water in the fuel; yet I'll still keep the fuel fresh. good advice

howie: that's kinda what I thought. The dude at work doesn't get desmo... not sure if spring or belt driven valves would matter either way. Thanks for walking by! I'll study what you and Koko said... and anyone else says.