Ignition Coils for M900

[koko64]

Set up a tin to catch the fuel and crank it to see if the fuel pulses out (it should). If it doesn't you could be starving for fuel at speed but getting by low down with a full tank of gas.
You gotta carefully tick off each item checked to be sure.

[MonsterDave]

Thanks, I'll try it tomorrow. Time for dinner 

I'll let you know what happens.

[MonsterDave]

I have good news and bad news.

Good news - fuel pump seems to be alright. Started the motor and when I give it gas, more comes out like it should.

Bad news (2 things) - First is that I broke off the plastic nipple on the carbs that the fuel line connects to. I'm hoping that I can just replace that. But, that means I have to pull off the air box and probably the carbs.  (I have FCR 41's so if anyone knows if this is possible, please let me know)

Second - After it ran for a second (checking fuel pump) I turn the key and it doesn't want to shut off. The starter keep going. I ended up popping the seat off and disconnecting the battery. Then as a test, I connected the pos and touched the neg to the post and it sparks. WTF!

[Howie]

Solenoid is stuck.  Get one here  https://ca-cycleworks.com/21-2988

Meanwhile, you may be able to free it up for now with a hard smack.

[MonsterDave]

Thanks Howie

[MonsterDave]

Next question... How do I get it appart to get that T out of there? All the pieces holding the two together come out easily except one. The one that goes into each body.

I'm I being stupid or what?

[koko64]

There may be a circlip or some other retaining method that you need to remove at the end of a common shaft. I honestly cant remember. There is a shaft collar which may catch. I think I was able to slide one carb back and fit the T piece with new seals without upsetting the springs and linkage at the other end iirc. It's easy to miss one of the thru bolts too. Reassembly has some issues to watch out for, so if you aren't confident to do it I would take the carbs to a good auto/carb shop that works on older cars carbs. Reassembly requires careful manipulation of the slide linkage and/or engagement slots when refitting the throttle shaft and may require the same to release the shaft iirc.
Also Power Barn overhaul carbs and I'm not sure what service SUDCO provides.
I did the same repair on a set of FCR39s a few years back, so I'm going from my notes as I don't have a set of carbs in front of me.

[MonsterDave]

Update

Fuel pump is good, new fuel lines on, new starter solenoid installed.

My current setup does not include the blue velocity stacks. (I have them, they're just not mounted) Instead I have the rubber boots that are mounted to the air box like the original Mikuni's.

My question is this... If I'm having fuel delivery issues, would it be better to put the stacks on? Would this allow more air flow? If I do that, I'm not sure the air box will fit properly. The carb kit came with the air filter so I'm assuming they want me to use it. (I agree) but that means I'll have to cut my air box more to allow for the stacks to go through the holes.

Do any of you have the FCR 39/41 setup that can tell me how you are doing it?

I did get a suggestion from my dealer that said to try and switch the plug wires. If that doesn't help/work I should let it get hot, then pull the side cover (oposite of clutch) to gain access to the pick-up bearing to measure something in there that could have an effect if it's not right. I have to ask him again what I'm supposed to do because I'm apparently not getting it.

[koko64]

Dont use the stacks. They dont fit the airbox. The alloy adapters on the carbs fit the airbox rubbers.

[MonsterDave]

Thanks Koko. I was thinking to not use them as well.

[koko64]

So you back to your original problem?

[Frank C]

Your dealer is referring to the pick up coils, or ignition sensors, that signal off the magnets on the flywheel.  They are located under the left engine cover.  They can fail intermittently.  Happened on my 97.  Can be fine cold then get a bit wonky when bathed in hot oil.  A failed pick up would have similar symptoms as running out of gas.

You should be able to compare resistances during different conditions.  They connect up at the ignition boxes, adjacent the coils. 

I stopped using the vacuum fuel pump years ago.  With mine, under continuous, excessive heat (Boston traffic in summer), the internal diaphragm would leak, filling the crank case with fuel. 

Been using an Airtex electric pump under the seat.  It has the correct pressure and flow rate for FCR's.  Bike starts easier and idles smoother. 

[ducatigirl100]

Update : I add the same symptoms....

Got some new ignition pick-up and ajusted the timming and the bike runs fine  ...

Here a photo