Starting issues, Turning to the professionals

[lwz]

Hello all,
This is my first post here and while I have been riding for a while this is my first time really trying to work on my bike so bear with me and I appreciate any assistance.

The story:
About 5 months ago I purchased a working, if well used, 2002 Ducati Monster 620. The instrument cluster was a little on the destroyed side but I figured I would put in the time and effort to fix it myself. A couple of months ago I headed out of town and due to unforeseen circumstances my bike ended up in the rain, exposed to the elements for 6 weeks. When I came back the bike wouldn't start up. I tried to push start it and couldn't even get compression in the engine. I did my research and it sounded like an immobilizer issue. I ordered a replacement ECU that was already remapped and married to another instrument cluster which I also purchased. However this was for a 2005 monster not an 02. I was informed that it shouldn't make a difference. (I am thinking it may but I will get to that later.) Upon installation of the new ECU and Instrument cluster the cluster spun right up registering everything; high beams, turn signals etc. This being said the bike wouldn't start. I tested my battery and it was fine. I tried to push start it this time, and it sounded like it was about to get going, compression etc but I couldn't get it to actually fire up. I then tried bypassing the solenoid. Being new to this I tried it in the following way. Turned the bike on with the lead coming directly from the battery to the solenoid disconnected and then touched it to the far side of the solenoid. After a few sputters the bike came on and I pulled the lead coming from the battery away and placed it back where it was supposed to go (I am not sure if i was supposed to leave it in place keeping that circuit complete). As the bike started up it started idling at around 6500rpm. After about 45 seconds of this it dropped down about every 15 seconds in 1500rpm increments. I decided to see what would happen if I gave it gas and it revved back up about 1500rpm and just held even if I took my hand off the throttle and again stayed there for about 15 seconds. After a few minutes of this it dropped down below 1000rpm and eventually died. (My buddy said that occasionally when he refreshed ECU's for cars they took a while for all moving parts to "adjust" before returning to normal.) After this it won't start back up, when I push on the ignition to start it up there is no sound at all. I think my battery may have taken a bit of a dive seeing as I have been working on this for quite some time so I am charging it back up right now on a trickle charger. I am also in the process of getting replacement gas in there seeing as it sat for 6 weeks at 1/3 of a tank that is a little rusty in poor weather.

The Questions:
1. What is the likelihood that the rpm issue is a problem with the ECU being flashed to an 05 monster?
2. Where is my problem most likely? The solenoid or in the ignition switch itself?
3. Is there anything else that I am totally blowing off that could be the problem?

I really appreciate any assistance.

[DarkMonster620]

Hello and welcome . . .

Only issue I have dealt with is the Pin33 issue, 2005 have the clutch master micro switch and 2002 doesnt . . . You would have "to make the Pin33" so that the bike starts . . . I had no RPM issues . . . plus I had it flashed to DP

[lwz]

DarkMonster620, I just read the thread that you posted on about Pin33 back in 2014. While I am starting to gather a picture of what I am supposed to do I have little knowledge about wiring harnesses. From my understanding what I have to do is find a wiring diagram, figure out which is Pin33, and then splice into the wiring harness itself to ground that wire? it has nothing to do with the physical pin coming form the ECU correct?

[DarkMonster620]

Correct . .. there should be pics on that thread . ..

[Howie]

Besides the pin 33 issue, your '05 ECU is from what model?  It might need to be flashed appropriately, but I would wait until your issues are resolved.  Running at that kind of RPM at idle is, well, on a voyage to major disaster.  Before starting the bike again carefully check that the throttle closes and the cable or throttle is not binding.  Also make sure the throttle does not open when the bars are turned.  Then be ready for instant shut down if the RPM problem still exists.  Oh, I would be shocked if this runaway RPM thing is a computer issue.

When bypassing the solenoid you should either jump from big terminal to big terminal on the solenoid or go directly to the starter.  If I am understanding what you wrote correctly, the positive cable was not connected for a period of time with the bike running?  This is a good way to destroy electronics.

[lwz]

All right so I am focusing at one problem at a time for now. The first issue I need to resolve is the pin 33 problem and I am hoping that DarkMonster620 or someone else who knows a bit about wiring harnesses will chime in.

My question is how exactly to ground Pin33. This is the process I hope to follow.
1. Disconnect the ECU and find the Body Pin 33. From what I understand this is the ECU port to the rear of the bike while the ECU is connected. Then on the inside of the ECU the pins are numbered. Count out to 33, the correlating port on the ECU connector should be where I run the wire.
2. This is where things become tricky for me. I pull apart the ECU connector and will insert wire (I am still uncertain what size of wire) into the port. How far should this wire go in? How do I know that it is set in properly? Is there some form of tutorial for this?
3. I take that wire and run it to ground which I am still uncertain as to how I accomplish that. (Again I know very little about wiring).
4. Test everything.

Is this the proper way? Are there tutorials that I am not seeing? Does anyone know the wire width I should be using?

[DarkMonster620]

I "tapped" into the Negative cable of the battery . . . You are right about process

[DarkMonster620]

BTW, you got Google Hangouts or email? can send you a pic

[DarkMonster620]

OK, sending links to manuals from 2002 and 2004 . .. 2002 is in French and German[sorry] and a pic that was sent to me by another member that did the Pin33 thing . ..  Have NO idea where my pic from the bike I did is . ..

[lwz]

All right. I have made some progress thanks to Darkmonster. This is a pretty novice question but take into account I only had my bike for a short period before leaving and then encountering these problems. I sorted the PIN33 issue. When I press the ignition the bike starts to turn over. Now I am having 2 problems. First my bike won't start up. I am getting some starter fluid today and will check the spark plugs etc. My other problem is this. When I press on the ignition, even when I stop pressing on it it continues to try and start up. Is this normal for my bike? I had an '81 honda before this so I am not used to all this fancy tech yet.

[ducpainter]

All right. I have made some progress thanks to Darkmonster. This is a pretty novice question but take into account I only had my bike for a short period before leaving and then encountering these problems. I sorted the PIN33 issue. When I press the ignition the bike starts to turn over. Now I am having 2 problems. First my bike won't start up. I am getting some starter fluid today and will check the spark plugs etc. My other problem is this. When I press on the ignition, even when I stop pressing on it it continues to try and start up. Is this normal for my bike? I had an '81 honda before this so I am not used to all this fancy tech yet.

The ecu controls the starter duration. It is to prevent overheating of the starter by excessively long crank times. It is normal.